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About perryinva

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    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 02/04/1958

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  • From
    Richmond, VA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 996 C2, BMW Z3, VW Passat
  • Future cars
    993, 997
  • Former cars
    924, 944
  1. A very old post, I know, but very helpful to reassure that THAT is all there is to checking and replacing the heater core. At least SOMETHING is far easier to do on these cars than any other car!! BTW, there is absolutely no reason to turn your heat "ON" while using an Airlift tool and/or refilling the system or burping the system.. The heater core is never isolated hydraulically from the engine. Coolant runs through the heater core any time the car is running. Turning "on" the heat, simply arranges the airbox dampers to run the air through the heater core. When heat is "off",
  2. Don't know if it ever re-occurred, but I had a similar, though not as dramatic occasional loss of coolant a few years back, and I accidentially located the source as the o-rings on the oil cooler. Under the right conditions of temperature and pressure, the coolant would slowly seep out, not enough to cause a puddle, but I occasionally got a whiff of coolant in the garage. While replacing my AOS, I noticed dried red coolant on top of the engine when I removed the main air intake plenum. I replaced the orings probably a year and a half ago or more, and the coolant level has never deviated from
  3. I replaced miy stock units with PSS9s about 2 years ago, and replaced the the upper strut mounts front and rear with stock ones, though on the front ones I used X73 units, which made the alignment easier, as th eoffset for the holes is different, and they are heavier duty than the regular front ones. No problems at all in the last 10k miles or so. There is no choice for the rears, only one part number. At the time I figured it made no sense to reuse 10 year old rubber parts with a stiffer suspension. It could easily be a cheap part that went, but it could also be where the PSS10s are set f
  4. "Input code number" is what the stock radio asks when it has been removed, or had the battery disconnected as a security precaution against theft. Your radio came with a 4 digit code that has to be inputted before it will work again. if you do not have it (normally in the manual, written somewhere by a previous owner), you can use the automated code generator that Loren has installed in the sticky above.
  5. Yes, a real experienced Porsche alignment shop can do wonders. I was very pleased to find that after all my careful work measuring and re-measuring the ride heights and balancing F/R relationship, etc, that my shop said they did not have to adjust the height at all, to make the X74 alignment specs I wanted, and matched their recommendation. I had to of course do a coarse alignment after installing the PSS9s, and thought the difference in handling from stock was quite incredible. I could never go back to the stock suspension, it really is, to over use the phrase, "night and day". But the smo
  6. It is pretty useless when it comes to replacing the AOS or water pump, with the engine still in the car. IMHO, there really is no excuse for them to not actually document these VERY common repairs the way an actual DIYer would have to do it. "Waterpump shown with engine removed for clarity" is useless, as the WHOLE difficulty is removing it with all the crap around it. Nothing worse than a false sense of security and optimism, only to be totally & completely frustrated. Thank goodness for sites like Renntech and Rennlist where real practical advice can be found. I also find their lack
  7. You are quite correct, that should have read 7/32nds not 7/10ths! Don't know what I was thinking, maybe because mm is base 10? Do they measure truck tires in tenths? Not sure, but, yes, that should have read 7/32nds of an inch or about 0.25" (about 6mm, not 18mm!) not 0.75" Doh! Of course the point is still valid, that tread depth, overall actual diameter and tire squat vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and adding worn tires will vary the ride height measurement, so you have to be careful when looking at the measurement points.
  8. Tossed away the one in my 2002 C2 5 years ago. Makes no difference what so ever. I personally think it was to absorb a slug of water, or provide a toturous path for water that might enter through.
  9. If you look & listen carefully at the video the 'flump flump flump" matches exactly with the lettering of the timing belt in the video, so it is no pulley bearing at all, as they all rotate more than one revolution for each belt revolution. You may have gotten some grease or oil on a section of the belt, transfered by a pulley or something of that order. Remember both sides of the belt have contact with pulleys, so it could be on either side, though I'd bet on the smooth side myself. The belt path is torturous and there are 3 smooth back side idler pulleys. The new WP may not be exactly i
  10. Leaking at 37k? WOW! I pulled mine of at 45k, and they were still in good shape, and replaced them with Bilstein PSS9 adjustable coilovers because the ride & handling are night and day. If you are not concerned with that level of performance (or cost), then the Bilstein Sports are reasonably priced, and still far better than the stock units. I would recommend an all around replacement, though, not just rears, but it's your wallet.
  11. AHH, the relief valve may be stuck. I haven't worked on mine, it hasn't ever failed. It only pumps up the bladder on advance, and releases air to reduce. It is wise to periodically inflate and deflate the bladder, to keep it working. I wonder if there is anything in the Bentley on that? I will take a look. Interesting, though, as I prefer mine almost fully inflated.
  12. Just so you know, the MKII cars (2002+) do not have a bellows, the AOS was redesigned. The picture of the AOS in krazyKs post above is the MKI and the AOS does not look like that where it connects to the engine. It does not go in sideways as shown, but straight down. When you get your new AOS, compare it to the old one to be sure you have the right one, as they are not at all interchangeable. For some very odd reason, Porsche added a small rectangular "U" shaped plastic feature, maybe it is needed for another car, that is not on the original. It is obvious in a side by side comparison. If you
  13. Ahsai got them all correct. I have a 15 gal (I think), but it is the high pressure Dewalt which pumps the tank to 185psi, and had no issues what so ever. You use the air to make vacuum via a venturi to suck out the air, so it runs continuously for maybe 30 seconds only. I don't think a pancake will do that. You need 1/4" drive regular and deep, with short extensions. Since there are so many different sockets out there, I can't be more specific. Use 6 point ones. That last bolt in the corner is a royal PITA, only because access is so tight. Do NOT use any other sealant. Make sure you get the
  14. + 1 also. $1200 for WP, coolant, belt & T-stat is crazy money to me. I did all that (+ a lot more,) at 47k miles on my '02 last year for : Real Porsche WP, Suncoast $250, LT T-stat Pelican $70, coolant, Suncoast $22/gal, and serp belt Pelican $25, so less than $400 in parts. (plus I bought the Airlift vacuum kit, exact same one as the Porsche, plus fittings for any car possible for about $120 on Amazon, what a GREAT tool as long as you have a compressor with decent tank) If that was all I had to do, it is easily done in less than a day, assuming you can wrench, and have the right tools.
  15. You just need 2 hose clamps. The boots are easily reusable. If you are going to the trouble and expense (parts, alignment, etc) to do the inner TREs, do the outers at the same time. They are half done anyway, when you do the inners, The ball joint tool is like $17 from Napa. I bought the TRW TREs, all 4 parts for around $200 from Vertex, and the inner TRE tool off Amazon for under $70. Piece of cake, with the right tools. Identical to the OE Porsche ones, except they don't bind. BTW, they solved all my rattles/creaks/groans, and made the steering smoooth.
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