topmech0

thanks loren. i found the problem. it was cam timing. the tools used were for early gt3 9661 with 9661/2 plates for inlet cams but as its 04 it should have been set with the gold 9661/3 inlet plates. reset it and all fine now. i was suprised it was that as the cam sensors threw faults up and would have thought even if timing out the sensors would still pick up signal from cams when turning. anyway all seems good now

hi all

have 2004 996gt3 that friend just rebuilt engine. after initial start up all seemed fine at idle for about 10 mins. tried to rev slightly and holding back like air leak or fuel starvation. then it cut out. no mechanical noises etc. now just cranks with no efort to fire,not even splutter. on pst2 it comes up with three faults

P0335 rpm input circuit

p0344 phase sensor 1

p0349 phase sensor 2

so presumed crank sensor. swapped it for used one and put his in another car. his worked ok in other car.

this gt3 still just cranks.looks like there was no spark.

any ideas? we had to stop looking last night as it was getting late.

the car has 54k miles on it. the fault codes are the usual of

P0300 multiple misfire

P0301 cyl 1 misfire

P0302 cyl2 misfire

P0303 cyl 3 misfire

and if i leave it rough running for few minutes more it will then show in addition

P0304 cyl 4 misfire

P0306 cyl 6 misfire

even when left for ages running badly and misfiring and spluttering i have never seen P0305 come up or any other fault related to the suspected variable cam timing solenoid on bank 1.

when i compare the readings of bank 1 and two in actual values of cam adjustment it seems that values on bank 1 seem lazy

hope this helps with your questions?

i am glad i am not the only person who has paid porsche librarian and not had the goods!!! he went missing after initially saying it was customs fault.

hi all,have 997 MY05 and have misfire codes and check engine light on. if i start car and drive its fine until i come to traffic and idle or low revs for a minute or so then starts to misfire and gets worse,sounding like bag of nails. if i then switch off and restart then problem gone until next time i hit traffic. had it on piwis and says misfire for cylinders 1,2,3 and if leave for longer misfiring then 4 and 6 appear. the problem also clears if i erase DME faults. i have changed all coils,spark plugs and aos but still have issue.

also if i activate camshaft adjustment on piwis when running there seems to be no change in engine revs.

any ideas before start looking deeper?

sound good to me too!

had this problem couple times but mainly on 2nd gear with 996 and always was the synchro assembley so unfortunately it will need a stripdown i expect.

there is plenty things that could cause this but as it starts on cold start i would consider possibly the fuel metering head itself as had plenty that simply get gummed up or the metal strip inside has holes once stripped for overhauling. failing that i would check for air leaks on the intake!

Wouldn't be the first time I have seen one of these belts installed wrong. I'll try and post a diagram of the belt when I return to work.

yes it is very easy to route the belt wrongly around idler,tensioner and deflection rollers and still have everything working.its not that its installed and driving pulleys wrong way its simply that the routing maybe wrong!

i have used many contitech belts and only had problems with SOME 3.2 or 993 but never the polyrib type on 996,7,or boxster

Looking to r & r plugs on my 05 997s. Can't find any articles on this DIY project.

Any advice, helpful hints ??

Thank You.

very similar to 996 except the tools needed are different in the fact 997 uses torx headed bolts for shields and coils and not 10mm bolts and 5mm headed allen bolts

The belt will stretch a little when it's warm.

I would check the pulleys to make none have any wobble and replace the belt with the Porsche version.

Loren:

Thanks. The belt when cold is already stretched to the point where the tensioner is as far as it can go counterclockwise. It only squeals just after its started up. It makes me think that one of the driven devices (water pump?) seized up while it was sitting for 5 months and has some residual friction until it gets spinning. I hate to experiment with a $100 belt. I wouldn't hesitate to spend the money on the genuine belt for the next 60k miles, but if it stretches after 3 engine starts, it will get expensive fast.

Thanks,

Mike

think its most likely the 'cheap' belt but double check you have the belt routed around pulleys correctly as it will fit in 2 or three ways but only works correctly in one!

Thank you all for the inputs, really appreciated it...I went ahead and bought the tubes and O rings today. I will open and inspect this weekend and report back. Btw, thanks Loren for converting the file.

i also agree that in that area its more likely to be the AOS or at least the bellows tube that sits directly on the bottom of the unit

Just drive like you are supposed to do and keep the car. in gear at all times. Sitting at a light in neutral is not only unsafe buy can cause problems such as the one you have as well as puts unnecessary stress on the syncos. The explaination that Barry gave is right on, so just keep it in gear. You should be able to downshift into first gear at any speed under 30 mph.

i disagree! you should not sit with foot on clutch and in gear. that just wears out the clutch mechanisms like the pressure plate,disc and throw out bearing. i think the problem you are having is the first signs of clutch drag and hence when you remove foot from clutch and reapply then it slips in! when you release the pedal does it return fully? if not then you have air in the hydraullic system or a faulty cylinder.

oh and nearly forgot. when adjusting the droplink lengths for sway bar it is absolutely vital that the front wheels are steered in the straight ahead position so the bar is not loaded!

it will not matter which hole you use to set sway bar length as you should have both sides in same hole. by doing this it doesnt effect your droplinks length when stiffening or softening in future. the only thing you must watch is that the lengths are not too long that they bottom out on the bottom arm when on the ground.

as for removing the bar you have to undo the small black boomerang bracket with the suspension bolt etc to lower the bar down. hope all this helps?

my guess is the noise you refer to is the differential in the gearbox! some of the gt3 do this. but obviously check kug nuts and play in wheel bearings too first!

Can I diagnose this without special equipment?

I noticed yesterday while hopping on the freeway (I am no longer driving until I fix this) that it seemed to have lost most of its "guts" if you know what I mean. The power wasn't there like it was a week ago. Is this a tell?

Any suggestions?

sounds to me like you have two problems here;

1. the loss of 'guts' sounds like the MAF sensor or air leak?

2. is almost definately the igniton switch!

change the switch with the VW/AUDI replacement and then do the MAF is my advice.

I have a 2004 986S that is a dedicated track car. It is driven very hard with R compound tires. The car has solid aluminum coilover mounts, bushings and spherical bearings.

Following two days of a DE this past weekend on the Sebring short course, there was a little bit of grease coming out of the hole on the end of the rear axle (you have to remove the center cap to see the outside end of the axle). It was not much - if you scraped it all up, I would say it is barely a half teaspoon.

It is the drivers side only, although I do recall the passenger side did the same thing briefly right after a rear wheel bearing change. I figured that bit of grease was related to the wheel bearing change - I cleaned it up, and did not have the issue again.

I do not know enough about the axle to to be able to figure out where it is coming from. Does this hole extend the length of the shaft and open into the inner CV joint? If so, could it just be grease migrating down under the g load? Other possibilities?

The CV boots, both inside and outside, are tight and whole, with no grease making its way past the CV clamps. I do not hear any noise that would make me think I have a bad CV joint (or bearing).

Any ideas?

if we are both thinking of the same hole (in the end of driveshaft/axle) then this is a breather hole and the grease is the grease for the cv joint. due to the use on the track it is getting hot and becomes thinner and being forced out the hole with temp and pressure. my advice would be once your done with a few track days simply peel back the rubber boots,both inner and outer and regrease the joints just to be safe and prolong their lives.

Allright, I'll offer my take on your issue. I would preffer to have your issue. It spells out the cables. You have a push pull and a side to side.

From there you can imagine that you issue lies with the Push Pull cable. I would give the rear end assembly a glance and see if you have rocky raccoon's remain's there. If not move to the cabin and pull the rear console. You'll see the shifter box, give it a once over to ensure that all the movements are uniform, ie that the cable is not binding in it's sleeve. The mark the PP connector, then adjust it appropriately to cause more movement in the necessary direction to engage the defunct gears. If you meet with success then find the happy median and you are go. If not, it gets ugly, there is morethan likely that you have something bent or sticking inside the gearbox. I will leave that tidbit to those more in the know than myself. GL

Tx! That's quite helpful. So let's hope it is indeed just the push/pull cable. I'll get round to it this weekend (if the wife lets me ;)

Tx,

Hugo

i would definately go for the cables. check that where the cables meet the holder bolted to side of transmission they are pushed in and secured fully. sounds as the push/pull cable is not seated correctly. i would not try adjusting unless you have the locking tool that holds the lever in neutral or you will end up chasing your tail. it should never need adjusting once set unless you change a cable.

Alright, I've finally gotten around to changing my AOS!

So I actually did more than change the AOS. I also change the spark plugs, oil, oil filter, and air filter. My ride is up and running, however it's not up to 100%. Is it normal for the car to have the following symptoms after the new parts have been installed?

1. Although the white smoke has decreased dramatically, sometimes, there is still a little bit of smoke at start up.

2. In first three gears, the car doesn't pick up to full potential until 3000 rpms.

3. Every once in a while after driving it hard, there seems to be a random hollow pop sound which comes from the bottom left side of the car and can be felt in the pedals.

4. Sometimes when punching the gas the car has a hard time keeping up with the escalating rmps, and for lack of a better description, appears to slightly choke. Not enough to cause the car to stall but enough to keep the rpms from rising quickly

I'm at a loss for ideas. Any clues?

Thank to everyone that has responded :)

Just for clarification, the AOS was in fact the main issue. When pulled out the bottom bellows had practically been blown apart from the main body of the AOS. So thank you to everyone who accurately tagged the AOS as the problem to my incident on the freeway.

hi there,good to hear it seems it was AOS and not something more serious. all the other little symptons you now have could be due to the fact when AOS fails it allows oil into intake(hence the smoke on freeway). you should remove and thoroughly clean the throttle body and if you can the intake manifolds of oil. eventually the residual oil still hanging around will clear after time. once you are sure all is clean then look with PST2,PIWIS or durametric and clear any remaining fault codes. give a long road test and recheck for new codes. good luck!

also check the high pressure air hoses onto and from the turbo! i had one that seemed ok but one hose clamp had broken and was giving a leak that led to same warning lights!

sorry i thought i said? i replaced the AOS anyway before last post. the vacuum never really changed much. there is a definate sucking and engine note changes. i also had a friend take his filler cap off and his does this also if it helps to clear any confusion on this board?

anyway i took throttle body off and intake manifold is full of oil so cleaned everything out. TB,manifold and MAF. cleared faults and driven it hard up the road so will have to give it back to the lady and see if CEL reappears in time? oh and the other thing was she had overfilled oil by about half a litre or so so i corrected that too.

Cleaning the MAF doesn't ALWAYS solve the problem from what everyone here and elsewhere has reported. If the MAF does really go bad, no amount of cleaning is going to fix the problem and it will need to be replaced

thanks geoff. i am normally an advocate of replacing but wanted to see if the AOS replacement and cleaning TB works first. i only cleaned the MAF as two second job and didnt want to spend her money if MAF was ok. the CEL took month or so to show after clearing before so will wait and see. if it comes back on then sensor replacement will be first stop.

How much is it off and how do you know? Note the fuel level sensor need not be calibrated if the battery was disconnected. The values are stored in the instrument cluster. Calibrating the fuel level sensor is not an easy thing. It requires removal of the sensor, all of the fuel, refilling the tank with an exact amount of fuel (12 litres) and calibrating using a PST2 or PIWIS.

i may be wrong but i thought it was only the C4 with the saddle tank that needed calibrating after battery disconnection. loren will know for sure though

Hi guys need your help again i drive 996 c2 tip. This morning when i started the car the key sticks to a position where the air condition and accesories do not work so i turnd the key back a liittle bit and it worked. does my ignition switch needs replacing? any help would be appreciated thnx!:)

yes it sounds like the actual ignition switch needs replacing as this is the component that has the 'gates' and springs of the various key positions in it. some people think its the housing but without switch on the housing you can simply turn the key without any resistance. so change the switch first!

Thnx for your reply if i replace the switch should i go to the dealer? coz in my country we only have one dealer which i have to ship my car. does the switch come with a new key or still use the old one?:)

porsche dealer wont supply switch. they will only supply it with whole lock housing. you need to get it from audi or vw dealer as its same. if you take yours off you will see the part number. you dont get keys or anything. just switch! its about £10 here in uk.