marksawtell

Hi logray Thanks for the quick response . I can't seem to get a lamp in there to brighten the areas up. Is it worth me taking out alternator to get a better field of vision etc. there are pools of water behind the alternator in the troffs on the inlet manafold top on passenger side (uk) which does point to what you say at the back , but how the heck do you get back there with your hands without dropping the engine?

HI there just had another engine fitted to my 1999 porsche 996 cab c2 (manual)as the original engine had the cracked piston liner problem. The replacement engine was running great but as I was driving home i noticed water leakimng from underneath when i filled up with petrol. The water is dripping (more like a constant stream) from somewhere up top of the engine at the back of the engine bay, on the l.h.s of the engine bay (the water is drippinng out the bottom approximately where the gearbox meets the main engine block) It is booked in on monday to go back to the guy and he suspects one of the pipes has become lose. He said the engine doesnt need to be dropped to fix this and its a real pain to get the car over to him on monday, so i thought Id check myself. I cant see far enough towards the back to see where exactly the leak is and even if i could I am not so sure as to how you would get your hand in there to fix a pipe unless im missing something obvious to make access easier.. (like the help of a man/woman with arms similar to the stick man you drew when you were about 4) Any help on the above would be appreciated with any actual diagrams of where all the water pipes go so i know what im looking for. Many thanks in advance KInd regards Mark

Thanks everyone for helping and rattles it was exactly what you said above! :-)

Hi logray, no it hasn't been aligned and that was my next step if there weren't any other suggestions. All the bushes were checked by a mechanic and said to be fine.

The tread gauage on the original tyres was good, the tyres were only two months old, yet the sawtooth had occured in this time. Tyres also didnt seem to be worn unevenly. i am concerned it will do the same to the new set of tyres i have. I dont drive eratic and i am still convinced the low rumbling/shaking i am getting is the factor to the sawtooth. I read somewhere a dodgy shock absorber could be the reason for sawtooth, but its very hard on the back of the porsche to tell if a shock is gone. it says push on the back of the wheel arch and see how many times the shock bounces. It took all my strength to push the back down and it seemed just to return to the position without any bounce. I just know the shaking/rumble wasnt there before. Any other ideas???

HI Loren, thnaks for your quick response, its definately not that. The wobble was there before the tyre change and still there afterwards. I just went out and double checked and they are tighter than usual, drove it again and still there...

Hello there and thanks in advance for any help! I have a 996, 1999 model c2 I started noticing a rumbilng noise when driving and suspected one of the front wheel bearings as the rear ones had been replaced about a year a go and being a high mileage car thought they were due for replacement. I replaced the two front wheel bearings and the two drop links at the front as these are prone to wear. The noise hadnt gones so I went and got all wheels balanced and it was at this point the tyre shop pointed out I had 'sawtooth' on the outer edges of both rear tyres. With the rear tyres replaced the rumbing had gone but i can still detect a faint wobbling which is more noticeable between 40-80mph. im guessing this is what has caused the tyres to 'sawtooth' over a period of time. I have never had sawtooth on any previous tyres. (for those that dont know 'sawtooth' is where if you were the run your hand round the tyre, it feels as if the the tyre tread is stepped) Anybody got any ideas as to why im still getting the shaking after all wheels balanced and whats likely to be the cause of the sawtooth although i think the shaking and sawtooth are related. Once again any help will be greatly appreciated. Merry xmas btw! Regards Mark

yes that is correct. I havent had time to get underneath to check what the other guys have said about checking the connection to the starter motor. I checked the battery and both connections were good. Sorry ive taken a while to respond, ive not been near a computer...

hi there, thanks for any help in advance! From cold, the car starts easily. if Ive been driving for a while and the car is at normal running temperature and I stop, when i go to start the engine again it barely turns over. if i turn the key again 5 seconds later, it also struggles turning over, by the third time it starts. I thought possibly its the battery but surely this would be worse at a cold start?? Any help will be appreciated :-)

Many thanks logray for the quick response. I cheated in the end and took it to kwickfits which is open on a sunday morning and with neumatic drill and a right hand without surgery they got the bolt out :0) and they didnt want to charge me! so bunged them a tip for a drink . Found what you said very useful for future though so thanks again.... regards Mark

I am hoping someone can suggest something i havent tried. Had a noise coming from the front when braking and after reading the forums decided it could be the downlinks to the antiroll bar. Looked easy enough to fit and cheap so embarked on changing them. The drivers side was hard. the top bolt that holds the downlink to the suspension strutt was very hard to get out. In the end i took an angle grinder to the side of the bolt that has the downlink on and removed the actual downlink bar so I could get a socket on the end of the bolt on that side. This worked well and i was able to free the bolt by turning it and then with a bit of encouragement from the other end with a hammer I got the bolt out. Decided to do the same on the passenger side, got the bottom nut off first on the bottom of the down link, then anglegrined off the actual downlink. Managed to start to turn the bolt but it was a lot stiffer and I managed to round off the bolt. so... i went to the other end and tried hitting it as hard as I could (could only use left hand as just had carpel tunnel syndrone operation on right hand) but still bloody hard. The bolt would not budge and i actually started to burr over the edge of the bolt, which i was concerned that even if i got the bolt to move, the burr would stop it passing through, so I had no choice but to angle grind it flush with the surface. ive tried hitting a centre punch placed in the centre of the flush side of the bolt but no movement. I only have a cheap mig welder and tried to weld on another bolt head to the other side to see if i could get some movement, but it just broke off. I have a small butaine bottle and tried to heat up the suspension casting the bolt is incased in, but dont think that had any effect as such a large area. I need the car to get to work on monday so any one who can give me any help or suggestions (other than take it to a garage :-) ) Many thanks in advance...

Does anyone have any instructions to replacing the handbrake sensor switch. Ive got one arriving tomorrow and wondered how easy it is to replace and if anyone has any instructions on doing it. Many thanks in advance of any help!

You need to remove the upper bump stop. New regulators come with two and are designed to work on both the Boxster and the 996. thankyou! it was exactly that!

Hi people , hopefully someone can help me. I had a window regulator go on the drivers side. Got a replacement, fitted it, window sits nicely but when the window goes down , it stops leaving about 2 inches of window showing. Any ideas what I may have done wrong ? Porsche 996 c2

:clapping: Thanks everybody! it was the ballast resistor, which turned out to be easy to change.

thanks loren... I swapped over the relays and still not got the drivers side working. Looks like it might be the fan itself on that side. Will take it apart this afternoon and test the fan. Thans again

Thanks Lauren for a quick reply. What did you mean by "about the fuse box" . Ive looked around and cant see any relays in the footwell.

I have a1999 porsche 996 c2 and I have noticed only 1 radiator fan is coming on when the car is hot. I have checked the fuses an have tried swapping the l.h.s fuse with the r.h.s fuse for the fans to check it wasnt the fuse. Can anybody tell me where the relays are for the fans and any helpful advice of what this could be and whether there are independent temperature switches for each fan. Many thanks in advance!

I am hoping someone can help me.... I have no hi beam on either headlight. When i operate the stalk, the blue light on the dash comes on for either flashing or full beam, but the hi beam on the actual lights does not come on. I have checked the fuses and bulbs and both are ok. I thought there might be a relay for hi beam but could not find anywhere on the documentation a note of a relay for the headlights and where it could be found. A little history... the car had a battery charging fault a couple of weeks ago and the garage suggested it might be the battery. They replaced the battery first and then said it wasnt that and put the old battery back and replaced the alternator. That solved the charging problem. I cannot be sure when the headlight hi beam problem started but maybe be linked to the battery/alternator being replaced. I would be very grateful if anyone could shed any light on what this might be or where i can find the heradlight relays (if they exist :-) Happy xmas btw! Mark

My roof decided to stop working one day, the compartment lid would lift, the roof would go back and just as the compatment lid started to go back down, the whole thing would stop. When I was able to get a PST2 linked up it would come up with a timeout error. There can obviously be many things that stop a roof working but in my case it related to the compartment lid motor. Rather than replacing the motor, Porsche do a repair kit, which replaces the bushes within the motor. This turned out to be very cost effective solution so try this first before replacing the entire motor, especially if you are always on a budget like me :-)

I had a similar thing on a '99 cab. The key had a very slow intermittent flash whereas before it stopped working it had a fast intermitent flash. Like you , I could unlock the door with the key. Something within the fob had died. I had a spare key which had never worked. Neither of the keys the dealer said could be reprogrammed. I had to order 2 new keys whic cost me £240 (uk pounds). On the upside the old remote was getting weaker before it stopped working and it became an art to lock the doors by pointing it in a certain direction, My girlfriend could never lock it. Once I had the new remotes, it would lock from a distance, so although expensive to replace, if you are finding your old keys are becominng a pain in the arse, replacing them solves the problem!

If the rear cover started to open and then stopped, it sounds like you may have cable or drive motor problems that drives the rear lid that has caused a timeout error as it has got stuck. Both are fairly easy to fit although you will need the hex bolt to manually raise the lid to get to everything to check out the cables. I would check around on the floor close to where he hex bolt may of fallen. Having said that, your best bet is to find someone with a pst2 and see what error codes come up first. I have a 99 cab and had a similar problem. Turned out to be the lid motor. Managed to get hold of a second hand one for 50 UK pounds and it sorted the problem.

Forgive me in someone else has written about this, but I thought I would share my experience and hopefully save somebody some money :) . I fitted an Alpine stereo system (D300RB) which had loads of cool add ons, digital radio, ipod adapter, Digital freeview and a car phone. All through the winter my alarm was functioning normally, with the new stereo installed. Come the summer and a nice hot day (doesn't happen that often in the UK) my alarm would sound some hours after setting it. There is a little metal pin which touches a small plastic tab the l.h.s of the factory radio when installed. In the event of someone getting into the car and removing the radio whilst the alarm is set, as the radio is pulled out, the metal pin obviously comes off the small plastic tab and earths on the side of the metal casing of the radio. Obviously non factory radios do not have the plastic tab, although they tend to be slighter smaller in width, so under colder temperatures, the pin doesn't touch the radio. Add some sunny weather, the dash expands with the sunlight beating down on the dash, and hey presto, the pin hits the side of the radio and the alarm goes off. This is easily resovled by either taking out the wire to the pin or putting tape down the side of the radio. I had read articles about this wire being a problem, but assumed it wasn't this in my case as it was only when the sun came out. It cost me £50 for porsche to work out why using their diagnostics tools. Hope this helps someone! B)

130,000 miles on a 1999 C2 Cab. I've got to say I bought it at 109,000 and had a mechanic look over it who said he was amazed how good the engine and body was. To my knowledge it is the original engine. Since then, I have replaced the coil packs and recently the radiators as one had coroded. Other than that, it has been trouble free. Took it upto 175mph the other day and she just purrs B)

Sorry to say, no luck modifying front hinge. We were able to clear about an extra inch at the rear, but you need about 2 inches to clear the GT3 spoiler. One suggestion is to use the same type of spring found on cupboard doors to elevate the height of the rear hinge as it goes round. For the time being I am going to look for a lower spoiler but would be very interested in hearing from anyone who manages to solve the problem to give 2 inches clearance!