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marksawtell

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Everything posted by marksawtell

  1. marksawtell
    ok just an update . Soved the problem. The sudden drop in fluid got me going on a real hunt for a leak. Had to take one of the rear quarter underside plastic floor pans off(sorry dont know the technical name) and found a leak just after a joiner. The pipe had actually rusted in a clip. Fortunately i had the tool for making up brake pipes when i built a kit car 15 years ago and still had some pipe and fixings, so cut out the bad and replaced it. After bleading all 8 nipples, brakes back!!!! And I did as you suggested JFP and flushed the whole system at the same time.. Many thanks JFP and wvicary :-)
  2. marksawtell
    yes it did,juyst before pulling into the garage....
  3. marksawtell
    thanks jfp... ill try the system flush first. I gotta say im annoyed at myself as i constantly check all other fluid levels. The brake fluid got missed which is extremely dumb...
  4. marksawtell
    I pulled into a petrol garage today and was sitting with my foot on the brake (engine out of gear obviously:-) . All of a sudden my foot on the brake went straight to the floor and the car had no brakes. I managed to get the car home and get underneath it as i suspected a burst brake pipe and couldnt find any leaks anywhere. Having said that, I checked the brake fluid level and it was around the minimum mark and took about 250ml to fill it back up to the maximum level. Heres what happens. If the engine is off and i push on the brake pedal, there is a little bit of resistance on the pedal at the beginning and then its like something slips and the pedal goes straight to the floor. With the engine running there is no resistance at the start of pushing the pedal... Anybody got any ideas? Many thanks in advance for any help Regards Mark
  5. marksawtell
    Heres something intersting JFP.... UK cars do have a valve on the evap system close to the throttle body with electrical connections. I took a gamble and changed it and the strange noise from around the filler cap is no more :0)
  6. marksawtell
    Thanks again jfp. it was the o2 sensor in the end..... got a zig zaggy line on both now on the graph ;-)
  7. marksawtell
    Thanks JFP, whats your view on the graph , would you concurr be it wiring or the O2 sensor that it's the sensor with the flat lines ie which supplies the banks 1-3 ,which I'm assuming is the r.h..s sensory If you're behind the car looking at the back of the ( I'm assuming banks 1-3 are the lhs when in this position
  8. marksawtell
    I keep getting an error code P0154 - o2 sensor ahead of cat cylinder (4-6). Ive also had problems with the car revving at 1200 on idle, if I disconnect the MAF, it does go down to about 850. I have attached the readings of actual values on what i believe are the o2 sensors (being a 1999 uk 3.4 c2 convertiblle it only has a o2 sensor before the cat) im an newbie mechanic so struggling with understanding certain areas. Can anyone make sense of this snapshot and tell me if im looking at the right thing and if it is showing the o2 sensor for cylynders 1-3 is showing faulty (this would be the o2 on the r.h.s as you stand behind the car looking at the back of the car... thank you for any help!
  9. marksawtell
    i have a '99 c2 and managed to pick up the assembly for a later 996 that fits around the radio and climate control etc but with one crucial difference, it had a slideout cup tray with it that slides out between the air vents and the climate control. The top airvents are flat on the bottom and slightly smaller. I havent fitted it yet but looks like it will work just fine.
  10. marksawtell
    Many thanks Loren
  11. marksawtell
    sorry loren, im having a thick day. From that diagram its showing "A" as the other side and "B" as the inner side therefore does that mean one arrow should point towards the front of the car and one should points towards the rear?? Sorry for being stupid!!
  12. marksawtell
    hi loren .thanks for the quick response as always. From memory there were two arrows pointing at 180 degrees to each other (i may be wrong without taking it out to look again) if that is the case, does what the service manual mean the arrows shuld be pointing sidesways ie from front tyre and to the other front tyre
  13. marksawtell
    Having replaced the front suspension, im not sure ive done something right as the car seems very lose at the front at speed. feels a bit like a boat in water.. I did notice there were arrows next to two of the three bolts that attach the shock and spring to the wheel arch. Does anyone know if these arrows should be pointing to the front/back of the car as thats the way i currently have it... ( i did make a mistake but not noting where the arrows were :-( ) thankyou in advance
  14. marksawtell
    Thanks jfp, seeing as I've changed the fuel tank end do you think its worth changing the valve at the engine end? I've got durametric and it's not throwing up any error codes ..
  15. marksawtell
    Slowly working through the problems on my porsche 996 1999 c2! My latest problem solving exercise is to stop the noise I can hear which is sometimes rev related and also when i turn the engine off, i hear a whooing noise (like a low octave flute) coming from around the fuel filler cap area. Germansportscarspares suggested it might be the EVAP valve by the fuel filler. I replaced this and the plastic pipe that goes to the black box from the evap valve (i think this is called a charcoal cannister) and have noticed the sound hasnt gone away. Not sure if its related but the engine can start to hunt if caught in traffic and sometimes stall and again i was advised this could be related to something on the evap system as the evap system adjusts mixture and throttle. Anybody had this problem or got any suggestions? As usual many thanks in advance for any help :0) regards mark
  16. marksawtell
    yes thank you to everyone :-) had a nice long drive today to essex and back from surrey (in england) and it felt like the day i first picked it up :-) im back to enjoying the car again and counting myself lucky .... until the next thing goes wrong lol
  17. marksawtell

    really knowledgable bloke, got me out the sh*t a few times now lol

  18. marksawtell
    yeah thanks again logray :-) I have taken a pic of the old engine mount which its a little hard to see the cracking all around the bolt, but you can hopefully see. Least now my teeth fillings will stop falling out !
  19. marksawtell
    Bingo!! Ok got hold of two engine mounts, when I took the old ones off, I noticed one was cracked all the way around the bolt and was leaking oil ( I am assuming there is oil in the engine mounts) Replaced and voila , no more shaking or rumbling !!!! Many thanks everyone :-) I think I still shake personally from the continual shaking but the car is now sweet, took it for a drive this morning and fell back in love with my car lol
  20. marksawtell
    what Dennis C and Logray say makes sense ... i doubt the engine/transmission mounts have ever been changed and after 180k they have to be close to their life expectancy lol I was stuck in traffic the other day and was convinced i was getting the shaking at idle and t 3000 rpm as logray suggests. I dont know exactly what the tyre pressure should be, im running 275/30 zr19 on the back but had these brand of tyres since i changed to to the aftermarket wheels about 4 years ago and always bought them from the same place and never had an issue until a few months ago, so i dont think its tyre pressure. Well at 180k, replacing all the above stuff wont of done it any harm, ive got rid of plenty of squeeks and the car drives tightly. I will get some engine mounts today as they look easy to replace and then do the transmission ones after that. Ill let you know how i get on...
  21. marksawtell
    made it to just under 180,000 miles before engine died, turned out that two of the liners had cracks in them. Fortunately had a remarkable friend help me out with an engine :-)
  22. marksawtell
    I am going through slowly getting my 1999 c2 cabrolet 996 in shape. A while ago I noticed a rumbing/shaking when driving. I put up a post and some helpful tips came back but I stil cant get rid of it. the best way to describe it is if you hold one of your hands infront of you loosely whilst driving, you can see it shake (im not on drugs or suffer from alchohol abuse before somebody suggests it... ;-) The car has done 180,000 miles (which is probably close to a record for a 996 lol) I have replaced tyres (front and back) and had them all balanced i have resplaced shocks and springs front and back i have replaced anti roll bar front and back I have replaced droplinks (front only) I have replaced rubber mounts on front shocks I have replaced wheel bearings (front and back) I have replaced coffin struts at front. I have also had a garage have a look at it that check all 4 wheels for camber and toe anf this was corrected and they could not find anything else wrong the rubling/shaking gets worse with speed and is rythmic . ie spounds like a flat spot on a tyre, but obviously havig replaced all four its not that. Please somebody put me out of my misery! i am at the point of giving up on this car..... Any ideas???? As always, thanks for any help in advance :-)
  23. marksawtell
    Thanks logray for replying .. I had taken the three bolts off and actually got it on the bench . I solved it by compressing the spring, leaving about 3 inches at the top, then angle grinded through the 'non compress part of the spring, which then gave me enough space to get in with the angle grinder and actually cut the main bar in the damper . I could then get the top part in the vice and persuaded it with a hammer to come loose. Please note anybody else reading this post, this method is only good if you are replacing the springs and damper! ;-)
  24. marksawtell
    Hi there Hopefully someone can help me. I've got replacement springs and dampners. I've manged to get the complete suspension out on one side of the car. I've compressed the spring by one inch so the top section with the rubbers etc turns freely. I've then taken the centre bolt off at the top that supposedly hold the whole thing together, but can't seem to slide the rubber assembly off the spigot at the top. I'm slightly nervous to heat the bold up with all the rubber at that end. I've also tried put a spanner on the end of the centre spindlle and trying to rotatate the rubber to break it free but not getting very far... Any ideas how to losen the top end off? Many thanks in advance of any help. Regards Mark
  25. marksawtell
    Many thanks for Logray and fpb111. I took advice from you both! found the leak by going underneath and shining a torch up whilst wearing glasses, spotted it was one of the smaller pipes going to the aos, it had a small hole close to the end of the pipe where the clip sits. Read up on in the diy tutorials on how to get to the IOS and decided to ring the bloke who fitted the engine and convinced him to do it tomorrow and ill go watch so i know for next time, at least he knows whats wrong immediately! I really appreciate and respect the level of knowedge of the members and the people who run this site. I have the taste for champagne and the money for wine and only manage to continue to enjoy this car by keeping the costs low by the invaluable help and advice. Many thanks again regards Mark
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