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The wife and I did this a few years ago; after all it is ‘her 986’ MY03 with OUT an amp. It is nice to see that PNP has up dated his instruction and is keeping current with the model changes. It’s not that difficult and is a good afternoon project. You can get the video that ‘TP’ sells and read the new instructions. The hardest parts to us were the speaker screen install and plugging the pins into the back of OEM socket. The video makes both of these steps look too easy. But it is doable. We ran the wires up and over the glove box and then into the radio area. The only mistake was that the connector for the servicing the engine was placed on the wrong side of the top mechanism :oops: , I must have had the page upside down. The engine has been service twice by two different Porsche dealers and the top has been up and down many times and the speakers are still working. :thumbup: I was hopping that PNP would have an upgrade for the front speakers, as I do not want to fuss with fitting and gluing speakers that might or might not fit or work. Perhaps someday..
ROM -- I think you can find your answer in the first couple of line here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radio_Data_System I would also add that perhaps with the coming of 'HD' radio, all of this is going to be part of the HD format. As an owner of a MY03, head units choices are very limited. her_986
Duane – Sorry to hear about your engine problems... Just a short story about a friends air cooled 911 engine. He also experienced a valves to piston contact due to a cam chain tensionor failure. Can not say if this is a problem in the water cooled engines. He said that the tension on the cam chain was controlled by engine oil pressure, he thinks that a seal let go… Engine rebuilt time.. :( Lets look on the good side. Due the RMS failures, that do not happen, there should be plenty of fresh rebuilt engines around.. Most likely cheaper than rebuilding yours… Or maybe it's time for a little extra go, like a 3.2 none e-gas(if there is such a thing)… Or go for the gold and do a 996 engine.. :D It looks like you enjoy your ride, so why stop now!!!! Good luck…
From what you have said above, it seems to me that you carry some kind of inflator, correct?? If so, have you looked into the MY03 base. I have a MY03 base, however it has the ‘S’ standard wheels(17’s), can not remember if standard ‘03 are 16’s. But, is not older boxster 16’s?? If so, you could put the smaller tire in the front deflated reducing its diameter!!! A lot of owners trade up on wheels, perhaps there are what I think are called ‘Take Off’s’. PSM: I do not have it, but you would think that the PSM system was designed with the knowledge that, some day it would have to deal with the spare on the rear of the car, no!! Just some $.02 worth… :unsure:
Will, in my option that is your answer, use NEW bolts. In my option factory work shop manuals are written to a specific audience. And therefore certain things are implied that would not be readily apparent to the DIY. Perhaps someone has NEW caliper bolts. If so, are they pre-coated?? If they are, then there would be no reason to specify a coating of any kind in the manual for the bolts. It would be part of the specifications of the bolts. Also, with new bolts you would be getting the correct type of coating, what ever it is. If they are not pre-coated then certainly just re-use them.. One of the wonderful things about this forum is getting answers about parts without buying something you may or my not need..
I think the work shop manual will have to be referenced to get the true story on this subject. As I find that what was said in #10 and #12 regarding the bolts to be lacking some information. Having said that, please let me explain, if the bolts that hold the caliper onto the car are truly ‘torque to yield’ bolts they would have a torque specification and a yield specification. Regarding the replacement of the bolts, I think that it is more of an insurance mater than a limitation on the bolts. These bolts live in a very harsh environment and are subject to all kinds of heat, water and dust that can contribute to wear on them. Also in my option, the manual is written with the idea that some kind of wear or tear, i.e. mileage/damage has occurred to the caliper that has caused the replacement of the caliper. And possibly overstressing/degrading the bolts. So the small cost of new bolts is cheap insurance against a caliper coming loose on a very expensive ‘P’ car. Plus, the cost for the dealer work shop to take the bolts and test to make sure that they still meet specification would certainly exceed the cost of new bolts.. Now, if someone tells us that these bolts are made of some kind of super duper metal coated with diamond dust then yes by all means have them test before replacing. Now, we are talking about YOU working on YOUR car and certainly you can do anything you want including putting anti-seize or Loctite on the bolts. The way I personally look at it, putting anti-seize on would mean that some time in the future you are going to be removing the bolts as, I have noted above they live in a very harsh environment, and this would make it easier to remove them again. Or glue them in (Loctite) for what ever added security YOU think it is worth. Well, this is MY $.02, so take it for what it is worth. I know that you want to do, the swap out, the right way and the best reference would certainly be the shop manual for your 996. Good luck and have fun and take you time….
I would like to add to KarlS most excellent write up regarding #5. I have used plastic wrap to seal the master cylinder reservoir to help keep the fluid from leaking out when removing the break lines. I must admit that I have not done this on a ‘P’ car, but do not see why this would not work. Most likely someone will say why it would not. You could also use the power bleeder cap with the hose pinched off. The idea here is to seal off the vent hole that is most likely in the master cylinder reservoir cap. Hope this helps…
For what it’s worth: In MY03 manual under Engine-compartment blower, there is a warning that states: Risk of injury. After the engine is switched off, the engine compartment and coolant temperatures are monitored for approx. 20 minutes. During this period, and depending on temperature, the engine-compartment blower and radiator fans may continue to run or start to run. ;)
Steve -- From pp179 of the MY03 manual: 1) Open or close the convertible top far enough so that the it is approximately 40cm away from the windshield frame. 2) Withdraw the ignition key so that the convertible top cannot be operated unintentionally. 3) Pull off the two lower ball heads of the tension ropes. 4) Unclip fabric covering from the two holder downwards, these are on the passenger compartment side of the trunk compartment. 5) Fold rear part of the convertible top forward(this is the back window). Press upper part of the rear window down when doing this. 6) Undo Velcro fastening strip of the restraining strap, you will see it after doing #5. 7) Engage restraining strap in the convertible top guide, I found this to be very tight, but I do not have a measuring stick that reads in CM’s and I’m mathematically challenged. Removing storage box : On vehicles with BOSE High End sound package, disconnect the electrical plug connection of the loudspeakers. The plug connection is fastened on the outer right side of the roll-over bar. – Open turn-locks (on the loudspeakers) and pull out approx. 1.5cm. Hope this helps..
Jeff and Loren – Thank you both for your prompt answers. Loren, it nice to have X-Ray eyes and be able to see a hidden fastener and save a piece of plastic from being broken. Jeff, perhaps I was too intimated by the NON-Smoking socket to believe that the plug would fit the current socket, I will reinvestigate this again with an eye on the fact that it does fit and perhaps save the life of piece of plastic and the wrath of HER_986!!! Just for clarification, this is on a MY03 Base 5-Speed. Information, I regrettably forgot of add. Thanks again, Mario
Would like to know how to remove the horse shoe shaped plastic dash cover. Doing a NON-Smoking install. The ash tray delete is done and now trying to do the lighter. For some reason the NON-Smoking lighter came with its own socket and is the reason I need to remove the dash cover. I tried to use the plug from the NON-Smoking socket, but it would not fit the current lighter socket. Did I get the wrong NON-Smoking plug??? By the way this is my second attempt to post this question, so I would like to apologizes in advance if this becomes a duplicate question… TIA Mario
Thank you all for your input.. At this point I can say that the CDR-23 HAS a plug, just needs wires, good, I think!! Now it seems like this has turned into numerous threaded topics. First is, what is MOST?? The second CDR-23 rear speakers hook up WITH OUT an extra amplifier (That's ME). And finally, CDR-23 rear speakers hook up WITH an extra amplifier. Since I do not know any of the systems talked about so far, I can only guess what is going on.. Regarding the rear speakers and the amplifier (OEM, yes!) not working, I would have to say that perhaps the CDR-23 was set to send it's out put to ONLY the amplifier or because the amplifier was hooded up, the CDR-23 defaults out put to the amplifier. I would venture a guess that the amplifier is for the door speakers!!! Again, something I do NOT have.. About the CDR-23 with out an extra amplifier, the CDR-23 has a plug, and has provisions to control balance, why put this on the CDR-23?? Why let cheap people like me get an CDR-23 with out door speakers and a extra amplifier?? Lastly, this MOST thing, if it is true that it is fiber optic system, then it would seem to me to require some type of conversion device to convert the optical single to one that can be used to drive a speaker. This converter would have to be at both ends, one at the radio/amp the other at the speakers. Is this what is happening at the door speaks, the dash spankers?? Well, this is way too long, and I thank you if you have gotten this far… Regards, Mario