carDorque

Thanks for the great response Gus. Anybody have any recommendations? I guess I could probably just search at this point.

I've heard tracks won't let a convertible race without an SCCA approved roll cage. Do you guys know if some tracks will let you race with a hardtop on your convertible? Actually, would it even make it safer at all? Or, would you need a proper roll cage or roll bar? Also, hardtops wouldn't add any stiffness, right? I would think the connections aren't load bearing. I'm in the Santa Barbara area, btw.

Awesome, 8924 worked. Thanks again.

Ok, just to let anybody interested know, I ended up taking the smallest sewing needles I had in the house and pushed them straight through the wires of interest. I hooked these up to my DataQ data acquisition module (very cheap and easy-to-use, $25 for four analog inputs). I found that the MAF out was sending a steady 1.35V and did not vary with load/revving the engine. The temperature output did output plausible numbers. I don't remember exactly what the voltage was, but it rose slowly while sitting there and the engine warmed up. So now I think the MAF sensor is just flat broken. It doesn't look like it's putting out a signal.

Yo yo yo Loren, I've got another one for ya when you get a chance. Becker 1 4462 Y505 1503 24/99 Thanks!! :renntech:

I tried cleaning the pins several ways and nothing changed : ( I think one of the wires is broken inside. Hmm, maybe I'll take two needles, stick them through the wires one wire at a time to see if I can find an open connection. This is close to non-destructive. BTW, I want to make sure that it looks like it was not messed with since the dealership says they will fix it, but they are 100 miles away, and I don't want them to have to tow it down there, have it sit around, clear some codes, and give it to me unfixed at the end of my 30-day post-purchase warranty. And, I definitely don't want them going through my whole car replacing the whole wiring harness. Anyway, thanks for the tips so far, and I'll let people know what I find.

A new MAF sensor is on the way. Will probably be here in a few days. I believe the problem is within the last foot of the MAF wires or the connector. I'm just hoping someone knows a way of non-destructively removing each pin from the connector or has a tip for non-destructively tapping the connections to the MAF and the connector.

I've been having some Mass Air Flow related issues, and I believe it's the wiring going to it. I've asked some more general MAF questions in the general 996 forum, and Loren and others were helpful. But, I can't find any info anywhere on replacing or fixing these connectors. Has anybody attempted this? Was anybody successful at getting to the connection on this this for testing? I called the dealer this morning about a replacement MAF connector. The guy said they only sell the whole wiring harness for the whole ECU for $2000. Well, I obviously don't want to do that. Oh, also I've cleaned it and checked for vacuum leaks and just about everything else. Thanks in advance..

Alright, I did it. I ordered a Durametric. I did it quickly like a bandaid. I did it before deciding if I wanted to or not. It kind of stings now. Thanks for the suggestion 1999Porsche911. (Durametric is what people would recommend, right?) Still though, does anybody have experience messing with the MAF harness connector? Any ideas on getting just the connector instead of the whole harness?

Ok, so I got it in warmed-up/stalling mode last night where it wouldn't run for 20 seconds without stalling. Then I disconnected the MAF sensor, and it did NOT stall. It ran pretty badly, but no stalling that I saw. Anyway, after playing with it some more, it looks like it's the wires or the connector to the MAF sensor. If it's running and I touch the connector the wrong way, it stalls. Also, when it was warmed up, I tried cooling down the connecting wires with compressed air, and I think it ran better. I just called the dealer to ask about parts. They said they don't sell just that connector, but the WHOLE wiring harness for $2000. I almost grabbed my stack of $2000 bills and ran over there, but I was hoping this could be fixed for less money. Anybody have any experience with the MAF connector? Everything's pretty small. I can't find spade connectors that are thick enough to fit into there for testing. I also can't figure out how to pull the individual pins out. Thanks in advance..

Hi Loren, thanks for the welcome and the quick reply. I did try doing this when it wasn't idling too bad, I guess just half way warmed up. It seemed to run worse, but I can't remember it actually dying when unplugged, hmm. Also, I don't really get what information unplugging it would give. Is it just seeing if it makes a difference to see if there is anything at all coming from the MAF sensor? I guess checking if the connection to the ECU is good?

This is on a 2001 Carrera 2 (3.4L e-gas) I just purchased this a couple weeks ago. I love it, but now I'm having some real problems. The dealer says they will fix it for free BTW, but they're 100 miles away, so I would like to be able to diagnose the problem and then just have them send me parts. The main problem I'm seeing now is the car is stalling after it gets warmed up and is throwing OBDII code P0102. It actually drives very nicely under acceleration, but after it's warm, if I pull up to a stop light and put the clutch in, it stalls. The day of purchase I got a check engine light :( Rented an OBDII scanner from Autozone, and the codes were P1128 and P1130. These mean bad air/fuel mixture in both banks. No noticed stalling yet, just the check engine light. Idling was actually pretty good, just a couple stumbles. No P0102 yet either. I ended up checking my intake for obvious leaks and then decided to clean my MAF. I covered it in alcohol in a zip lock bag, swashed it around, and then took it out and cleaned it with a q-tip. (I thought everything went ok, but now I'm afraid I pushed too hard on the film on the end where it doesn't go all the way through and broke it.) I put the sensor back in, and it seemed about the same. I hadn't cleared the codes, and they stayed on, but then I rented the OBDII scanner again and then got all three codes, P0102, P1128, and P1130. I ended up clearing all the codes, and now I only get P0102. Then I noticed that after it was warmed up, it stalls. Then I cleaned my e-gas throttle body. It was just a little dirty. That didn't change anything. I checked for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around different spots, and didn't find anything. I also checked it by pulling out the disconnecting the airbox bellow, putting a rubber glove over the throttle body input, clamping it with a hose clamp, cutting a hole in a finger, and injecting compressed air to see if I could hear any leaks. I couldn't find anything. (I'm not sure if that last method would work well or not. I just made it up.) Anyway, what do you guys think. I convinced the dealer send me a new MAF sensor. I hope this fixes the problem. I'm just really confused why it's only stalling after warmed up. Any thoughts? (Whoa this is long) Oh yeah, also if it's warmed up and in rough idling mode, if I pull the hood open it always stalls. It's so strange how if it's holding on and running, as soon as I pull the hood open, it dies. I don't know if I'm sucking air away from the intake when I pull up on it or what.