DavidSF

Hi, I've been following the excellent instructions from this forum to replace the ignition lock cylinder and switch assembly on my '01 Boxster and I'm almost done. I'm having a problem reinstalling the vent and light switch. The problem is there's no slack with the light switch electrical connector in the dash. I read that it's easier if I remove the light switch from the vent and connect the switch to the electrical connector and then reinstall the vent. Can someone tell me how to remove the light switch from the vent? I removed the nut and tried to follow the instructions in the Bentley manual to turn the switch a bit counterclockwise and it should come out but it doesn't. Below is a pic of my situation. Any help appreciated in reinstalling the vent and light switch. Thanks, David http://i41.tinypic.com/fx54c6.jpg Also I found this piece of plastic on the floor mat. Anyone know what it's for? http://i44.tinypic.com/muiuzq.jpg

Hi, Great instructions! I'm almost done but I'm having a tough time putting back the vent and light switch back in. I think removing the light switch from the vent will help as it says in the instructions but I can't figure out how to do that. I removed the nut but I can't pull the switch the vent. How do I remove the light switch from the vent? Thanks! David p.s. I didn't put back the 10mm screw and nut like some others. Too hard. I hope it doesn't backfire on me later.

Do I need to disconnect my battery for 5 min? Which MAF was in your car and what is your new MAF? OLD MAF=986.606.125.00 NEW MAF=986.606.125.01 Then all you need to do is disconnect the battery for about 5 minutes. When you start the car will run rough for a few minutes until the DME learns the new MAF. You will need to drive the car at least 5 to 10 miles to get the DME to re-learn your driving style. Once that is done the car should idle and run normally. Awesome, thanks. One last question on this topic: is it safer to disconnect the positive or negative terminal of the battery or do I need to disconnect both?

Do I need to disconnect my battery for 5 min? Which MAF was in your car and what is your new MAF? OLD MAF=986.606.125.00 NEW MAF=986.606.125.01

Do I need to disconnect my battery for 5 min?

If you go from 996.606.125.00 to 986.606.125.01, you don't need to have the ECU reprogrammed, only if you have an earlier MAF (the 124 flavor). These were the before and after parts for me. However, you should disconnect your battery for 5 minutes after replacing the MAF (make sure you have the radio code first), so the DME will relearn the MAF parameters. The 125.00 and 125.01 seem to be electrically the same, but the .01 version is less susceptible to getting dirty and fouling (or so I've read). I've never heard of any advantage of using the older style MAF sensor. The TSB referenced above talks about above says the 124 MAF needs to have the ECU reprogrammed when going to the 125, but it came out before the 125.01 issue of the MAF (if you were a contributing member, you could read the whole TSB and be as confused as everyone else!) If your dealer is trying to sell you an ECU reprogramming going from the 125.00 to the 125.01, you can politely set them straight. You will need the security torx to get the MAF sensor on and off. It takes several reads of Mike Focke's instructions for everything to sink in - there's a lot of information there. Ask more questions here if you get stuck. After doing the first MAF replacement, the second one from start to finish should take less than 30 minutes. If you do the job, it will take longer because you will probably want to clean some of the dirt in the engine compartment that has accumulated in 50K miles; the dealers don't seem to wipe down the dirt that accumulates in general. I assume you meant to type going from 986.606.125.00 to 986.606.125.01. Man I'm so confused. :) I don't know who to believe or what to do since I've gotten conflicting information. I'm going to try to confirm with other sources like PPBB and see if others can confirm no ECU reprogramming is needed. Thanks!

Thanks for your post. My experience was pretty close to yours, except I got the P1128 code in addition to P1130. And guest what, I have almost 51,000 miles. I cleaned the MAF again when I got the part# in case the same codes come back and I need to replace the MAF. The reason I want to get the older MAF version is so I don't have to pay $700 (not including parts, they want $400 for the new version of the MAF) to the dealer to install the new MAF, clean throttle body, and reprogram the ECU. If I just buy the older MAF version online for $300 I can do it myself without reprogramming the ECU in 20 minutes. Why pay $1100 when I can pay $300? The Problem now is I'm having problems finding a source for the old version of the MAF (part#986 606 125 00).

How can I tell which sensor is currently in my car? Is there a way based on VIN# or must I pull out the old sensor to find out? Is the part# stamped on the MAF sensor? When I took it out last month to clean it I don't recall seeing a part#. thanks, David Unfortunately your car could have either or may not have been updated. So yes, get the part number off the sensor. I got the part# (98660612500) and I believe it's the old version. Is the TSB for the new version available online? I want to know if it's worth $800 to upgrade to the new version. I can get the old version MAF for $300 and install it myself in 30 minutes. Dealer wants $1100 to replace the MAF and reprogram the ECU. Your thoughts? Thanks, David 986.606.125.00 is not current anyway - it was replaced by 986.606.125.01 The newer design sensor is more resistant to fouling from dirt. Dealer price is WAY too high - I suggest you find a different dealer or independent shop with a PST or PIWIS tester. All the TSBs are available here to our Contributing Members. I called a local dealer and he said they don't have 986.606.125.00 and it's no longer available. If I recall it's possible to buy a Porsche OEM MAF from Bosch since they're made by Bosch. Anyone have the equivalent Bosch part# and a web site where I can buy the Bosch part? Probably cheaper too. BTW, how do I access the TSBs? I couldn't find them. thanks, David

How can I tell which sensor is currently in my car? Is there a way based on VIN# or must I pull out the old sensor to find out? Is the part# stamped on the MAF sensor? When I took it out last month to clean it I don't recall seeing a part#. thanks, David Unfortunately your car could have either or may not have been updated. So yes, get the part number off the sensor. I got the part# (98660612500) and I believe it's the old version. Is the TSB for the new version available online? I want to know if it's worth $800 to upgrade to the new version. I can get the old version MAF for $300 and install it myself in 30 minutes. Dealer wants $1100 to replace the MAF and reprogram the ECU. Your thoughts? Thanks, David

How can I tell which sensor is currently in my car? Is there a way based on VIN# or must I pull out the old sensor to find out? Is the part# stamped on the MAF sensor? When I took it out last month to clean it I don't recall seeing a part#. thanks, David

I have a simple question, I think. I have a 2001 base Boxster that was delivered to me on December 2000. I need to replace the MAF sensor. Is the correct part#98660612501? thanks, David

Assuming the Boxsters dynamics programmed in the PSM software were tested and optimized using N-rated tires, would it be true to conclude that PSM would be less effective if I used tires that didn't have the Porsche N-rating (e.g. Yokohama AVS)? Thanks, David

I'm seeing two part#s for the oil filter ('01 base 986): 1) 996 107 225 53 2) 996 107 225 60 Which is correct for a '01 base 986? thanks, David

So I was at the dealer the other day and I asked for a bottle of power steering fluid at the parts counter. I got a bottle of Pentosin 202. Today I noticed in the manual, I know should've checked first, that I'm supposed to use Pentosin 11S. The 202 bottle says it's compatible with 11S. Then I read this: http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...682E2244059A%7D Should I go back to the dealer and demand what the manual recommends, 11S, or am I safe with mixing with 202? thanks, David

Hello again, So I found a Kragen that carried Mobil1 0W-40. The problem was nowhere on the bottle did it say "SuperSyn anti-wear technology". I asked a guy there about it and he said don't worry all Mobil1 oils have SuperSyn. Well, I went ahead and bought 9 quarts but now I'm wondering if that guy knew what he was talking about. Is what he said true and so I don't have to worry? Should I take them back and find a place that carries 0W-40 with "SuperSyn" written on the bottles? Attached is a pic. thanks, David