jpflip

Good news. Thanks for the update.

Take a look here: tip non repairable...But....

Of course Steeve you need to do a complete bleeding of the brake system.....Very important! Sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF...

I have a seep at the front clutch overflow resevoir. Also a low level at the rear power steering resevoir. The car goes to the garage this weekend. Is worth opening the front resevoir and pumping some pentosin out to replace it in the rear? Sounds easy if I can get the front open.

Is this worth doing or should I just leave it to the garage this weekend?

Clutch engagement point is high up and is hard before startup. Otherwise it works ok, so perhaps its ok to drive to the garage?

It won't hurt to transfer fluid. I did it for a month before I received the parts needed for this repair. Of course, you probably know that you need to get a new slave (for the fluid migration from the steering reservoir to the clutch reservoir) and an accumulator ( for the hard to depress pedal.

Clean up the area properly under the clutch reservoir because this fluid is bad on rubber and you got a big wire bundle in this area that goes to the PSM system....

Previously debated....oil in intercooler hoses....

OK. i read the tread and am still struggling. I have this problem ... had the alternator tested at Advanced Auto ... they said it is putting out low voltage and needs to be replaced .... can i just replace the diode pack OR do i need to replace the alternator?

Also, i am having trouble figuring out what the appropriate part number is for the diode back .... FOOM-145-225 from the pelican parts forum does not seam to be a valid part number.

thx!

Try replacing only the diode pack it is simple and cheap....(see link) The part # F 00M 145 350 is a good one....

Regulator replacement....

That diagram shows the same layout - the arrow is pointing to the front of the car.

So as you face the engine compartment the 4-5-6 are on the passenger side.

But Loren, #6 cylinder is the closest from the front bumper not the farthest like mention in the sixth post, isn't it?

Then I am confused too. I always thought it was the one in front right side....????? Always used the diagram you are showing....

Agree with the rock88, you have to found out exactly where the leak comes from. and of course have a second opinion before you spend that kind of money. Take some pictures of the area where the leak comes from and post it ! We might be able to help you better after seeing some pics....

There is no better way to found out. Good luck!

There is a note in the OBDII manual :

In the event of a short circuit to B+ or ground in the oxygen sensors

ahead of the TWC, the mixture becomes too lean or too

rich. This can cause misfiring. If, in addition, an oxygen sensor

signal fault ahead of the TWC is stored in memory, first correct

this fault and then road test the vehicle.

Erase and try again....

I was thinking about your fault. If the gas cap can be part of the problem because the tank vacuum for vapor recirculation did not work....The fuel cap being new, how about the main cap on the reservoir itself. May be it is loose. Very easy to found out , four nuts... Are we looking at the impossibility to create negative pressure inside the reservoir? I think so....

This is one of the nicest post I ever saw!

These products are in fact really expensive I didn't know you can get wax for $3325.00 !!!!!!!! Swissvax. But I can get the leather milk for $56.00 in Canada....

Wow! That's a nice job. I especially love the job you did with the leather....Swizol, noted with thanks!

If your battery is at fault the replacement is a simple process. But the alternator and also the voltage regulator replacement can also be done and there is some DIY out there. Here's the links for some of them Alternator replacement , and the regulator which is really easy to do regulator replacement also good info here Regulator replacement 2....

Many TT owners had this problem of "intermittent oil pressure warning signal" and the only fix is to replace the sender. I don't know if Porsche came out with an upgrade but there is a supersede part# and it is 99660620302. The cost of this part is $72.00. To replace it it is a bit tight but can be done....I agree with Frank don't be too worried about little oil on your engine. No puddle under the car, no presence of oil in the coolant or coolant in oil, you should be good....

The only previous fault that we have seen here on Renntech related to window is the switch within the door handle and the window regulator. The problem you have seem to come from the motor but I am not confident with that one. If the motor or the regulator were jammed a fuse would be burned... Please keep us inform of your findings.

There is only two fuses related to the power window and they are D1 and B6 but if one of those was burnt you would not have any window operating. The first thing to do is eliminate the switch failure. Just transfer the left switch with the right one and see if the switch is at fault. Can you hear the motor movement inside the door??? If not you have to get to the six wires that are going into the door and trouble shoot from there to see if the motor is at fault..... Do the window go down a little bit when door handle is moved ???? Here's the wiring diagram for the power window system. There is only one plug and it is located just before entering the door (DP door X12).... You can disconnect that plug and put a volmeter there to see if you got power... Start with the grey/violet wire and a good ground while selecting the switch to up see if you got 12 volts....

Contact Actron, they have two testers for fuel that retail for around $40, and ask if they have the correct adaptor for this application. If they do, that will probably be your cheapest out as everyone else is way over $100 for what you need. And don't even think about buying tools from Porsche, they are just plain nuts on pricing.......

Thanks again JFP. I finally got a proper tool to test the fuel pressure. This is good to eliminate a bad fuel pump or a rupture U pipe in the tank located on the pump canister. The Actron fuel pressure gauge is good Fuel pressure gauge # CP7838 but all the adaptors in the kit are useless for a Porsche. You have to get at the same time for less than $4.00 the right angle adaptor # 01800-000-1299. Just connect the adaptor and the gauge to the port beside the fuel filter and if you got 43.5 to 58 psi it is a good news ;-) (repair manual page 544). Of course you have to activate the fuel pump relay with Durametric to check the fuel pressure without starting the car. Or remove relay #13 from relay carrier #1 above the fuse panel and jump terminal 30 and 87.

jpflip:

The terminals that you have circled look like number 38 and 87 in the diagram.

Thanks for posting the tool and procedure.

A blow up picture of the wiring diagram will show you a little difference between 0 and 8. It is important especially when you are ordering relays....

Regards, Maurice.

Contact Actron, they have two testers for fuel that retail for around $40, and ask if they have the correct adaptor for this application. If they do, that will probably be your cheapest out as everyone else is way over $100 for what you need. And don't even think about buying tools from Porsche, they are just plain nuts on pricing.......

Thanks again JFP. I finally got a proper tool to test the fuel pressure. This is good to eliminate a bad fuel pump or a rupture U pipe in the tank located on the pump canister. The Actron fuel pressure gauge is good Fuel pressure gauge # CP7838 but all the adaptors in the kit are useless for a Porsche. You have to get at the same time for less than $4.00 the right angle adaptor # 01800-000-1299. Just connect the adaptor and the gauge to the port beside the fuel filter and if you got 43.5 to 58 psi it is a good news ;-) (repair manual page 544). Of course you have to activate the fuel pump relay with Durametric to check the fuel pressure without starting the car. Or remove relay #13 from relay carrier #1 above the fuse panel and jump terminal 30 and 87.

There is always some k16 for sale on Ebay. For the engine damage due to metal flakes, there is not much you can do except clean as much as possible the intake plenum to prevent further "possibility" of damage. Good luck with that one, at least you found your problem....

I was going to mention, lately there was a lot of ABS problems related to a faulty brake switch adjustment.....

Brake switch....

Oh ****! The turbo is internally damaged apparently. Anyone got £3k to spare?

You can get them rebuild if the casting is not damaged or get some used ones on Ebay ???

Rebuild kits left turbo Right turbo

Contact Actron, they have two testers for fuel that retail for around $40, and ask if they have the correct adaptor for this application. If they do, that will probably be your cheapest out as everyone else is way over $100 for what you need. And don't even think about buying tools from Porsche, they are just plain nuts on pricing.......

Thanks JFP good suggestion.