judgejon

Loren's right. This is normal. After several day on alarm you must use the key to turn off the alarm and open door. It's in the manual. Not to worry... It's an anti-theft feature.

Valentine 1

Why is my ABS turning on in a turn? I am not touching the brakes, just coasting. But when I am on the gas, it seems to be okay.

It's unnerving taking the same turn and have 2 different things happens, not knowing which one is going to happen.

I had a flat, rear right.

Only changed the rear tires, mechanics and I agreed still 50percent left on the front.

ContiSuperSport2 fronts, new Hankook V12 rear. 295/30/18

First time the ABS came on was when I got the flat, left hand turn. I was on the gas.

After I changed the rear tires, the ABS would come on

when left hand turns, coasting, 45mph, slight downhill, not touching the brakes.

Second time was slight down hill, with an bump in the middle, left hand turn, after I hit the bump, coasting, not touching the brakes.

any help/advise would be appreicated.

thx

ed

Problem is unmatched tires.

You must use same make front and rear.

You can't mix tires. Different compounds, grip, will trigger abs action.

Choose one brand, period.

You can replace 2 fronts or 2 rears at one time, if make matches all around, front and rear

yes, it seems to sit on a slight angle at the edge of the engine, and is very accessible. your post reminded me of the location, as I'd wondered before what that bolt was for and why the angular placement. Thanks much.

very nice job, great results. this is the spring that sits up inside the oil filter attachment? How did you get to it? You might consider posting this up as a DIY article.

Hello,

I have odd problem with my passenger door lock/window. For one when I lift the the outside/inside handle the window does not drop the 10mm its suppose to. The other problem has to do when I manually unlock the car with key on the driver's side door. If I do not put the key in the ignition soon after unlocking the alarm sound goes off making it think the car is being broken into .. Go any suggestions? I know that the window not dropping can be either the inside/outside handle microswitch OEM-99661312300 ...but what is your take on the alarm sounding when I unlock. What microswitch is in control of the lock to tell the alarm that it was unlocked by a key.

alarm is normal. key must be used after a few days of car being left with alarm on. don't recall number of days at the moment.

window situation sounds like the switch. good luck.

Went through the forum and It looks like I have all the systems. Oil is in the coolant, but not the other way around. No white smoke and the dipstick shows no sign of coolant contamination. What a mess, the stuff looks like chocolate pudding....

My link

****, sorry for the mess. Good luck. In Memphis past few weeks, hard on cars round here with the heat and humidity. Considered driving, but I flew. What's your local temp? Had you been running her fairly hard? Sure hope this is an easy fix for you.... Easy being a Porsche-relative term in dollars.

Went through the forum and It looks like I have all the systems. Oil is in the coolant, but not the other way around. No white smoke and the dipstick shows no sign of coolant contamination. What a mess, the stuff looks like chocolate pudding....

My link

Lots of posts on this. Check search engine for info. I believe it's foam from the heater/ac air mix flap.

03 C4S with 103,000 KM.

Hi Everyone, was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem before...

it's really starting to get hot around here (46 degrees Celcius) and about a month ago i started seeing small foam/sponge parts coming out of the A/C, and yesterday when i took the car to the track, the sponge particles were getting bigger and bigger getting out of the vents...

i can only assume these are insulation sponges that are deteriorating, do i need to replace them? i assume would be a costly and time consuming job... anyone had something like this before?

Thanks,

Nehme

even in cold weather, if the car was run hot and fast there could be a leak in the coolant expansion tank or possibly the cap. worth a quick look-over just to eliminate these possibilities.

Put on the updated coolant filler cap while your at it. Good luck. Glad this worked out so well. Could have been much worse.

What you have here is the classic "Caliper Clear coat Delamination" that is a chronic Brembo Porsche Caliper problem. Over time the clear coat gets dry, and flakes off. I have had this even happen with new calipers that was so bad, that I got Porsche to make a warranty replacement of the caliper.

I have found that the easiest repair is to feather sand off the clear coat around with blemish with 1600 grit sandpaper and respray the affected area with high-temp engine clear paint. This repair has worked for me.

thanks much. must have been brought on by the weather and sticky crap in the draining water. Never noticed any discoloration until last Saturday.

Ps: I've admired that Orient Red car for some time..... still looks great.

Cheers, jl

Each caliper has two bleed screws and each of the bleed screws has a plastic dust protector cap.

If the cap is melted then you could have a stuck caliper piston that is causing overheating and faster wear. Best have a closer look at that caliper.

Loren, it's more like a very thin plastic film that is on the outside of the caliper. It had bubbled and wrinkled, and now part of the outside of the caliper looks faded and not bright red.

My car was in an outdoor parking lot for about a week, and it had rained and stormed. The discs, particularly the fronts, were very dirty and sort of crusted with gunk. Normally, after washing, a coating of rust will appear on the discs, but it cleans up after first braking. this time the gunk was dried and hard and causing a grinding sound when I first drove the car and used the brakes. I drove for awhile until I could get to a station with water and sprayed water on the discs. this loosened the crap and the discs then smoothed out when I drove the car and used the brakes. I dont think this would have overheated the calipers.

the plastic film is like the protectors on new appliances that protects from scratches and peels off easily once you get home. Ever hear of anything like this on C4S or turbo calipers? Cheers, jl

That would have to be some pretty high temperature plastic film to put up with caliper temperatures. Perhaps someone clear coated your calipers? What sort of material would remain stuck to a rotor after braking--yet rinses off with water? Odd. What did it look like?

the front wheels and discs had lots of crud after 2 days of rain and then 3 days of just sitting in a parking lot on the campus of Humboldt State. The rears were fine. I'm thinking that the front of the car was at the edge of the parking lot on a little down slope and that water and junk were flowing along the edge of the lot toward a nearby drain. the front wheels and discs were well coated with this crud stuff. the stuff on the discs felt hard and I was surprised that it didnt go away at first braking.

the right side caliper shows more blemishes than the left and at first I thought I'd spilled gas while filling the tank. But the left is also blemished. there was no crap on the rear wheels or discs. Both front discs look and feel fine now. car handled great once the discs were clear of the goop. Maybe the additional pressure on the pads caused the calipers to overheat?

Pics are coming, thanks to all... jl

here's another... both of right caliper

Each caliper has two bleed screws and each of the bleed screws has a plastic dust protector cap.

If the cap is melted then you could have a stuck caliper piston that is causing overheating and faster wear. Best have a closer look at that caliper.

Loren, it's more like a very thin plastic film that is on the outside of the caliper. It had bubbled and wrinkled, and now part of the outside of the caliper looks faded and not bright red.

My car was in an outdoor parking lot for about a week, and it had rained and stormed. The discs, particularly the fronts, were very dirty and sort of crusted with gunk. Normally, after washing, a coating of rust will appear on the discs, but it cleans up after first braking. this time the gunk was dried and hard and causing a grinding sound when I first drove the car and used the brakes. I drove for awhile until I could get to a station with water and sprayed water on the discs. this loosened the crap and the discs then smoothed out when I drove the car and used the brakes. I dont think this would have overheated the calipers.

the plastic film is like the protectors on new appliances that protects from scratches and peels off easily once you get home. Ever hear of anything like this on C4S or turbo calipers? Cheers, jl

That would have to be some pretty high temperature plastic film to put up with caliper temperatures. Perhaps someone clear coated your calipers? What sort of material would remain stuck to a rotor after braking--yet rinses off with water? Odd. What did it look like?

the front wheels and discs had lots of crud after 2 days of rain and then 3 days of just sitting in a parking lot on the campus of Humboldt State. The rears were fine. I'm thinking that the front of the car was at the edge of the parking lot on a little down slope and that water and junk were flowing along the edge of the lot toward a nearby drain. the front wheels and discs were well coated with this crud stuff. the stuff on the discs felt hard and I was surprised that it didnt go away at first braking.

the right side caliper shows more blemishes than the left and at first I thought I'd spilled gas while filling the tank. But the left is also blemished. there was no crap on the rear wheels or discs. Both front discs look and feel fine now. car handled great once the discs were clear of the goop. Maybe the additional pressure on the pads caused the calipers to overheat?

Pics are coming, thanks to all... jl

Each caliper has two bleed screws and each of the bleed screws has a plastic dust protector cap.

If the cap is melted then you could have a stuck caliper piston that is causing overheating and faster wear. Best have a closer look at that caliper.

Loren, it's more like a very thin plastic film that is on the outside of the caliper. It had bubbled and wrinkled, and now part of the outside of the caliper looks faded and not bright red.

My car was in an outdoor parking lot for about a week, and it had rained and stormed. The discs, particularly the fronts, were very dirty and sort of crusted with gunk. Normally, after washing, a coating of rust will appear on the discs, but it cleans up after first braking. this time the gunk was dried and hard and causing a grinding sound when I first drove the car and used the brakes. I drove for awhile until I could get to a station with water and sprayed water on the discs. this loosened the crap and the discs then smoothed out when I drove the car and used the brakes. I dont think this would have overheated the calipers.

the plastic film is like the protectors on new appliances that protects from scratches and peels off easily once you get home. Ever hear of anything like this on C4S or turbo calipers? Cheers, jl

Listen to your gut... if you have concerns about it's history then stay far away. There should be enough good sound examples out there to choose from.

I agree, but this sounds like a great car. I drove my 911SC for 325k miles before selling it. did some engine work, pistons, jackets, etc, at 160k when a main bearing needed to be replaced. approx 12k dollars. At 325k miles engine was tough and strong. Has this car been updated with carrerra tensioners? if yes and the price is good, color agreeable, and interior viable, go for it. If the tensioners are not yet upgraded to the hydrolic carrera type which I think came out in the 84's, then walk away from the car, as the present owner didn't know how to take care of it, or went to a mechanic unfamiliar with Porsche idiosyncrasies which are actually vital to proper maintaining of the car. My 2 cents, fwiw.. Good luck. PS: I loved my 911SC. PS: I love my C4S too. j

activates the optional deflector shields for use in avoiding Klingon attacks.

(but don't cut if off, just tuck it out of sight. might be needed someday.)

;)

2003 C4S.

Just came back from a trip up the coast, rinsed off the car, and noticed that one of the red calipers seemed to have a plastic cover on it that was bubbled. Like the plastic protectors on some new appliances for scratch protection prior to purchase. I'm not sure if this is how the Porsche name is put on the caliper as I had thought it was baked into the red paint. Anyone ever notice anything like this....? Seems like a silly question, but I'm curious. Cheers to all...

it sounds like the idler pulley located near the alternator. This is a common issue, and is a relatively easy fix. Any good indy can listen, verify, and then quickly change out the pulley. and... I'd change the timing belt as well, just because. the cost of the belt is cheap enough. good luck.

new timing belt would be the big issue, also possibly a new water pump. I got into the habit of changing the fan belt at every major service on my old SC, which I did every 15k, or every 3rd oil change. Obsessive compulsive, yes, but it was not a big deal. I did a new timing belt on the 996 at 30k, and would not want to go beyond 15k intervals.

I cant say much about the wheel lock key, but I have had the situation where a bleeder valve could not be released to bleed the brakes. Outside bleeder valve on left rear brake caliper. It actually broke off during attempted removal. my inde secured the bleeder valve hole with a 5mm bolt and permatex and I've had no problems. No leaks of brake fluid. as other valves on other wheels are also apparently frozen I'll ultimately need to rebuild or replace all the calipers. This will be a pricey deal on a C4S with turbo brakes. what happened to your bleeder valve issue?

nice going!

"Mike, that's it, now just enjoy this wonderful machine",

Hope it's nothing serious. Good point re checking viscosity. If it's slimy it's could be a big problem. If it's rusty watery, you could just heat up your afterburners to dry it out. Maybe it's just rust in the mufflers...