judgejon

Napa Auto parts had some good wiper blade replacements.

No need for OEM on some stuff.  Major stuff always.

My story:  I have a trickle charger.  It's branded Porsche, made by C-Tek.  Cost about twice as much as the regular non-branded C-Tek.  I just wanted to see "Porsche" on something I plugged into the car.  Wiper blades, no worry.

Yes, I think it would require an ECU or ECM change.  I would also be careful to check the impact on the remaining drivetrain, clutch, trans, brakes, etc., based on the higher torque from the 3.4 to a 3.6.  Maybe not, but certainly worth checking.  I learned about this with an older air cooled 3.0 engine when I thought about bolting on 3.2 pistons.  Of course that was an air cooled engine and maybe the 3.4 to 3.6 changeover would be less impacting.  And I agree that many others might have considered doing what you are thinking about.  It will be interesting to follow this thread.  Good luck.

Thanks, Ahsai.  Good catch.  Makes good sense.  And makes me wonder if those suspect VW cars had a similar emission testing connection.

I wonder if its a connection to some sort of computer chip reprogramming device that doesn't work through the OBC port under the dash like a Durametric would.

Or, it could be the auto-deploy parachute braking activation for hard braking from over 175mph?

Interesting looking connection.  I think there likely will be some informed replies.  Cheers,

wow, that is one good looking major league job well done.  Fascinating to see how it all fits.  Clearly takes years of engine work and great skill.  cool.

Great result.  Cheers.

"Back in the day," I had a '62 Chevy with a hot 283, and then a '68 Camaro with a great 327.

I remember seeing a thread from a member of the forum in Santa Rosa, CA, about installing a short-block chevy in an older 911.

Looked interesting, and .... with a short block Chevy I just might be able to change my own spark plugs again.

I remember when the insurance guy came out to inspect my old 911SC to be sure it actually had a Porsche engine in it.  Always wondered why..

Now I know.  This is a great read.  Question:  why not just get a Z06 Corvette in the first place?  Cheaper, faster, etc.  Maybe cause it's still a Chevy?

Cheers to all...

And I thought that was the Self-Activating Photon Torpedo Guidance and Tractor-Beam Deflector Inflator Mechanism Shield.

The one in the photo looks pretty good to me.

Wow on the price tag.  Good thought.

consider Red Line 10-40.

this is fun reading for me, brings back memories of my old 911SC, sitting in traffic, watching the temp gauges climb.  The good old days....

Yes, fuel sender issue is likely problem.

On older Porsche cars you could simply pull the sender unit out of the top of the fuel tank.

I'm not sure, but check to see if there is a sender unit on top of the tank that could easily be pulled out and replaced.

Could be a sender similar to the oil pressure sender.  Relatively inexpensive to replace.  Labor would be the biggest cost.

Good luck.

Am I correct in thinking your car does not have e-gas accelerator pedal?

How about your throttle linkage?  Injectors clean?  Maybe run a bottle of Red Line through the fuel system?

this doesn't sound like an internal engine issue to me.  Something going on with the bolt on stuff.  Good luck.

And welcome to the forum.

thanks very much.  I didn't know that Durametric had an update.  Never see any news about that.

I rarely use it, but have it on a partitioned (via Bootcamp) MacBook Air that I generally take with me on road trips.

I remember updating my Durametric software when I looked at a post on the forum quite a few months ago.

I think I was using 6.5.2, but really don't recall.

I take the Mac so I can reset the airbag light.

I'm current now, uninstalled the older and reinstalled the latest version, and thanks again for the timely heads up.

And hello to my Fast Yellow friend as well.  j

What you describe sounds to me like a problem with the fuel level sensor.  Should be an easy change out.

As you can easily fill up the tank, this does not sound like the fuel filler valve issue.

Good luck.

DoC, Loren is right on top of this stuff.  

Welcome to the forum.  

Consider becoming a contributor, and...Good luck, j

1 hour ago, Loren said:

5 km/h = 3.10686 mph

Yes, my friend.  Exactly so.  Cheers, j

I bought my car with doors auto locking at 3 mph.  I assumed that was factory setting.  If opened with engine running then closed, they auto relock at 3 mph.  Took me a little while to get used to red light always on.  Doesn't bother me now.

not sure about TT, but on 3.6 I think sender is located on top of right side of engine.  Easy change for inde shop a few years ago.

last change out of spark plugs?  condition/age of coils?  Important if car has sat out in rain for any lengthy periods.

On 4/4/2017 at 10:07 AM, Porschetech3 said:

The shifter  neutrally spring loaded to the 3-4 gate..very light spring pressure is overcome to move to the 1-2 gate, very stiff spring pressure is overcome to move to the R gate, light spring pressure is overcome to move to the 5-6 gate.The three different spring pressures give a different "feel" to the gates to allow identifying which gate your going into.The springs are in the trans case. Could be a broken/stuck/missing spring causing you to not be able to differentiate between the gates.

agreed.

I think it's actually important to use the maintainer for lengthy periods when you are not driving the car.

These cars are battery hogs.  Electricity is drawing all the time.  Notice how the interior lights stay on and on and on.

I often park my car for over a week at a time when on the road without a maintainer and that's always been ok.  Of course I'll start the car and let it run about 5-10 min every now and then.  If I'm away from home for a longer trip, not driving, I'll always put the maintainer on the car.  Cheap insurance against a dead battery and messed up electronic system.

And, as an aside, you can get a good maintainer on line, or from Sunset, or elsewhere.  Check out the manufacturer.  Mine has the name Porsche on it, so it costs about twice as much as the same one that doesn't say Porsche on it.  Your choice.

does gas actually flow easily into your gas tank?

there is a known issue with the vent valve not opening and preventing tanks from easily filling.

If you are getting a good flow of gas from the pump, check your fuel sender, and then check the fuel gauge.

I think, I hope this is wrong, but I remember reading that if a gauge is faulty the entire instrument cluster needs to be replaced.  Loren?  RFP?

there are several articles on the filler valve issue, the search engine will be your friend.

good luck

3 hours ago, 356to966 said:

It's important to see if the smoke comes from one or both pipes. My 02 C2 was a one smoke pipe and I got to know all about that situation.

would you mind noting the diagnosis of the issue and the fix?

Best....

50 minutes ago, Schnell Gelb said:

Excellent resolution and even better, you shared the story with us.Thank you.

There is a similar Thread where the cause of the "Hideous Smoke Bomb" (Member-  Kabra) problem on a seldom used car, was not the AOS. It was diagnosed as a version of the expensive Intermix issue

oh yes, my friend, aka the infamous blown head gasket situation.  "Been there, done that," in a Fiat 124 Abarth Spyder.  Hard to remember, but easy to forget. 

3 hours ago, Schnell Gelb said:

For the sake of completeness on this subject ,here is a helpful comment I am quoting from JFP to an AOS question and the Crankcase Vent Valve -part of the system.

"The vent valve is rarely involved as when it fails, it tends to shut off or reduce vacuum flow to the crankcase.  As they are cheap, if you were to take it out to check it, I would just can in and put in a new one.  And by-the-by, it is not at all unusual to have short lived AOS units, particularly if they are non factory.  We have had exactly zero luck with aftermarket units and now only use factory. "

thanks.  I agree, stay away from the aftermarket.  we figured out that my smoke issue was because I had not driven the car at all for several weeks, only occasional idle, car was on trickle charger.  Then I drove a few times over several weeks more and warmed up the engine to 180, but never ran hard.  then, on the day of the smoke, I'd run hard for about 30 miles on winding mountain road, then stopped at a store and did some shopping.  on restart there was the smoke.  Hasn't really happened since, and it seemed it took a good hard run to get the condensation fully out of the exhaust system.

Your advice is good.  I'm guessing your car is yellow?  Meine carreras 4$ ist Silber.  Traurig, ist mein Deutsch nicht so gut.  Je parle seulement allemand, un meilleur Français.

Good thoughts...go fast, kleine schmetterling, but safe.

you might try a total reboot of the system, by disconnecting the battery, waiting a few minutes, and reconnecting.

but it's more likely your switch is simply worn out.

I'm not sure there is any manual way to get the seat adjusted. 

I'm sorry but I don't know how to get it out for replacement.  Maybe call for advice to Sunset Parts, or Pelican Parts.