judgejon

Charlie,

sometimes you need to simply reset the mirror memory.  no rational explanation, its another "mysterious Porsche issue."

I've had mirrors settings messed up by people walking by and pushing on the mirror, or if I dry a mirror too vigorously after a rain.

Here's a neat trick someone on the forum posted a few years ago.  If you're bothered by bright lights behind you, leave all your seat settings alone but tilt both mirrors downward and then program the M2 setting.  Voila, you have an instant way to avoid glaring lights from behind.  once set, just remember to hold the button down until the mirrors completely stop as there is not a full auto function in the seat controls.

welcome.

good move re the ims, rms, etc.  you might want to check the condition of the coil packs.

I assume you have a 6-speed manual.  only thing I can think of re the gas issue is checking the function of the e-gas control.

good luck.

Dear Friends,

I have always advocated for a dedicated thread titled "mysterious Porsche issues."

This is one of the big ones.  My airbag light has come on at random intervals and for events that have no real rationality.

One time on a hot day I was out of the car for a few moments with the engine idling and running the a/c to cool down the interior.  Bingo.

Most recently, on a rainy, foggy, chilly night, after a long dinner, the airbag light came on when I turned on the front defrost and rear/side mirrors defrost at almost the same time.  Bingo.

My Durametric has never failed me.  Loren's always good advice is again good prophylactic advice.  But there is a mystery here that continues to puzzle lots of us.

 

And, if it's a radar detector, the previous owner would have left it with the car ... which seems unlikely.

 

Not really, some of these "stealth" units would be so difficult to remove, it simply isn't worth while, and their removal would actually diminish the car's value.

 

Yes, I agree that these lights are a radar detector.  

Good answer, JFP.  

My wife had a BMW 325i convertible and the radar detector, not a Valentine-1, was hard-wired to a small dash display. The unit itself was fixed up into the front grill.  We bought the car, and ultimately sold the car, with the radar unit in place.  

Yes, at least 4" extension on the socket needed.

And I think the adjustment turning direction is the opposite from what's noted in the manual.

Have fun...

Yes, C4 looks better than before.  Front end is very nice.

Somehow the early Camaro's made it into this thread.  I had a factory new '68 with the Muncie 4-speed.  Black vinyl top, on yellow.  Neat black striping around the front.

Not a Porsche, but still was a lot of fun.  Thanks for the memory.  

Congrats on your success.

I was going to suggest checking to see if there was another in-line fuse added to the sound system possibly located behind the console.

The fuel filler issue has been noted on the forums before.  See the posts re my own issue with the gas tank filler tube that would not open because the wire at the top of the gas tank leading to the little switch was chewed apart by a mouse that had built a cozy nest above the tank just under the battery tray.

I didn't realize the E6 fuse was connected to the audio system.  Write this one up as another of those "mysterious Porsche issues" that pop up every now and then.

And add to the list of coincidences that my wife and I are Anaheim High graduates who celebrated our 50th class reunions in 2014 and 2015 respectively.  Cheers!

I just read this short interesting thread of messages.

Thank you, search engine.

I hit the over rev limit today.  

Going through some twisters in 2nd gear.  Engine seemed to cough and sputter.  I looked down and I was pushing past 7k.

over revs.

Slowed some, no reoccurrence.  engine seemed strong.

I also noted this in a recent thread about some added aftermarket dash lights.  Over rev indicators likely.  At least one of them.

Just thought of the likely correct answer.... after getting home from a quick sprit during a lull in the rainstorms.

I had the rpm's up pretty high..  and it occurred to me that....

one of the lights shown above is likely an aftermarket over rev indicator.

I believe there are such indicators available.  Does anyone have one installed?

These are aftermarket lights for sure.  Likely power-on indicators for an aftermarket amplifier, or perhaps an older remote installed non-Valentine1 radar detector, or added driving/fog lights or running lights?

Checking with previous owner is only way to find out.

Or, could be the optional rocket fuel booster system, or the optional emergency braking parachute system, or, considering the season, could be Christmas Lights?

Good luck.  Merry Christmas...

Thanks to all who participated in this thread.

I'll do the LN 106 08-2.2 at around 75k, unless a newer update has come out.

Cheers, 

Thanks for the info.  Looks pretty good.  I'll be thinking about this option.

The button just happens to be located where I've placed the remo​te display for my Valentine-1.

Cheers, jl

I have the iSIMPLE ISFM2351 TRANZIT BLU HF adaptor installed, and it works quite well. Because the MOST adaptors are very expensive, this is the next best thing.

 

Traditional FM transmitters have a lot of interference, which was solved quite well in this model as it disconnects the external antenna when in use. There is an app that you install on your phone for initial configuration. When you get in your car, it gets connected automatically, and the cool thing is also that you can use your phone as it has a microphone that you install somewhere in the dashboard.

 

Cheers.

ok.  cool.  

kindly advise, how does this adaptor connect?

It would be great if you would post up pictures if you have them.

I've thought about this issue quite a lot, and decided some time ago not to install an aftermarket gps/sound system and move the a/c panel down on the console.  I actually like the little cubby hole, and use the push in/push out cd holders.  I also occasionally use an iPod fm transmitter that plugs into the lighter socket, and I find that it works fairly well.

Your solution seems good.  So, if you please, how about some more details.

Cheers....

Mine too.  Sounds like you're good to go.

Be sure to update to the latest Durametric version, 6.5.

How about posting a picture of your installation?

For peace of mind I had the LNE retrofit bearing installing at around 35k miles.

Single row, LN 106 08-2, on the 2003 C4S.

Is there a recommendation about when, if ever, to do another prophylactic LNE retrofit?

Thanks. j

never have had this problem with mine.  always a bumpy ride with the stiff suspension, but no real bump steer issues.

Did experience bump steer on my older 911sc.  Pretty much took care of that with a Weltmeister strut brace connecting the shock towers.

Never felt the need to do that with the 4s.

Wonder if some front suspension bolts need tightening?

good luck...

Also consider a trickle battery charger if you are storing the car for the winter.

The V1 is also good addition.

And at 45k miles you might think about new coil packs at next spark plug change.

Lots of good stuff on the forum about motor oil.  Check what others use in your area for the type of driving you do.

ok, that's it.

totally agree with JasonStern above.  If the previous owner of your car did not have it done, then for your own peace of mind and to prevent the horror stories of blown up M96 engines, by all means do the LNE fix.  This is the best way to avoid IMS problems and to be able to sleep well at night.  The other suggestions are also good, especially the clutch and RMS when the LNE IMS is being installed.  

Don't think twice about this, do it.  

Then you can relax on those long trips when cruising along a challenging road at a good clip,  not thinking about your engine blowing up, but perhaps keeping your eyes and ears attentive to your V1. 

Enjoy.

My guess is that at some point the radio was taken out, sent to Becker, and the connecter was installed at the factory.  I think that's the only way to do it.

I considered doing this some years ago, but really didn't want to take the radio out.  And I didn't want to put in an aftermarket GPS/radio and move down the a/c control, etc, although that mod is fairly popular and looks pretty good once accomplished.

If there is another way, I'd sure be interested in how it's done.

The bluetooth adapter looks cool.

Nice pics.  Thanks for posting those up.

ps:  the lable on the DuPont spray has changed, but it does seems pretty good.

 

Well, gentlemen, I'm not as young as I used to be.

 

Not wanting to take out the seats, having done that swapping over the seats in my 911sc, I decided to attempt the "easier" fix of popping off the dust covers and hitting the bushing opening with WD-40.  I thought the WD-40 might have a better penetrating action than the Dupont Teflon spray.

 

I managed to get it done, but there were some interesting and uncomfortable body-twisting contortions involved.

 

Once I figured out the best way to reach the dust cover on the passenger side, I got it off and got the WD-40 in there.

 

It was modestly easier to get to the dust cover on the drivers seat, and I got it off and hit the opening in the bushing with WD-40.

 

Ran the seats back and forth, and HOO-RAH it worked.

 

Thanks to all y'all for posting up on this one.

 

Right, you too Loren.  Best,  

 

For future reference, the DuPont spray will penetrate (the Teflon is suspended in a thin solvent), and gets you away from future dirt pickup problems.

 

Thanks for the info.  I'll get some and keep it on hand.  Probably smells better than the WD-40 as well.  Cheers, 

Well, gentlemen, I'm not as young as I used to be.

Not wanting to take out the seats, having done that swapping over the seats in my 911sc, I decided to attempt the "easier" fix of popping off the dust covers and hitting the bushing opening with WD-40.  I thought the WD-40 might have a better penetrating action than the Dupont Teflon spray.

I managed to get it done, but there were some interesting and uncomfortable body-twisting contortions involved.

Once I figured out the best way to reach the dust cover on the passenger side, I got it off and got the WD-40 in there.

It was modestly easier to get to the dust cover on the drivers seat, and I got it off and hit the opening in the bushing with WD-40.

Ran the seats back and forth, and HOO-RAH it worked.

Thanks to all y'all for posting up on this one.

Right, you too Loren.  Best,  

 

I read all the posts on this topic via the search engine, and agree that taking out the seat is just too much for me.

 

It seems that the replacement of the Bowden drive tube is a dealer-only function costing big bucks.

 

I've had this problem for some time, with both seats, but never as bad as at the present.  The car sat in hot weather for several days, and I'm wondering if this had anything to do with the problem.

 

Does this lubrication tip really work?  On both driver and passenger seats?

 

Could a picture be posted off the dust cap that needs to come off, and the subject bushing?

 

I've tried unsuccessfully to copy the TSB noted in another post on the topic, using my MacAir, but a "password" I don't have is apparently needed.  I'll try to copy just the illustrations, but I'm not confident that will work.

 

I'm concerned that both seats will just freeze up.  I'd appreciate any additional info on the problem.

 

Regards to OrientExpress, and all old friends on the forum. 

 

The spray will work if all that is needed is lubrication (which is quite often the case); but if there is a mechanical issue it obviously is not the solution.

 

I'm going to try the spray approach.  I'll post up with the results.  

Cheers,

Contributing members should have access to the TSB on Renntech (I can't see if you are on my smartphone). The TSB is pretty clear.

nope, can't print the TSB.  "Small print" says "read only."  I tried to print it out every way I could think of with no success, until....

I took a screen shot of the illustrations in the TSB and then printed out the screen shot.