judgejon

Sorry, but I'm a little confused.

Seems to me you would want to go with a 295/30ZR18.

Any specific reasons you're thinking about going to 265/35?  Just curious.

Cheers,

I read all the posts on this topic via the search engine, and agree that taking out the seat is just too much for me.

It seems that the replacement of the Bowden drive tube is a dealer-only function costing big bucks.

I've had this problem for some time, with both seats, but never as bad as at the present.  The car sat in hot weather for several days, and I'm wondering if this had anything to do with the problem.

Does this lubrication tip really work?  On both driver and passenger seats?

Could a picture be posted off the dust cap that needs to come off, and the subject bushing?

I've tried unsuccessfully to copy the TSB noted in another post on the topic, using my MacAir, but a "password" I don't have is apparently needed.  I'll try to copy just the illustrations, but I'm not confident that will work.

I'm concerned that both seats will just freeze up.  I'd appreciate any additional info on the problem.

Regards to OrientExpress, and all old friends on the forum. 

Don't do it.  RFM is right, how could this issue be related to the "steering column."  Even in the older cars, the turn signal/bright lights assembly merely attached to the steering column.  The cruise control is electronic and has nothing to do with the steering of the car.  Check this out with a good indie shop before you accept the dealer recommendation.  The cruise control push button on/off is located at the end of the cruise control lever, right?  I can't believe that the cruise control assembly is somehow permanently attached to the steering column itself.  Can you get a schematic book of the column?  I'd bet it's a part that goes on and off.  Good luck.

Hello my old friend.  The car still looks great.  I still think the orient red is a true eye-catcher.  One of the best p-car colors ever; rare, striking.  Best, jl

I can't speak re the 285's, but as far as the 295's go, imho, the PS2 is a superior tire.  Rain or shine, the PS2 has great traction and imparts good confidence.  

But, whatever tire you choose, don't mix and match manufacturers.  If you need to replace the PZero rears, you'll need to also replace the fronts at the same time.  Otherwise you will have less than happy experiences with your abs/psm systems, including red and yellow dash lights, sudden braking, and heart attacks while taking sharp curves at modestly imprudent speeds.

Thanks, Rob.  Will do for sure.

Daytona is a little different than an auto-cross, considering the HP and set-up of my Richard Petty Team Dodge.

That high wall can be a little scary for sure.

Good thoughts.  jl

(pm coming)

 

well, friends, this is almost as good as the oil wars posting of a few years ago.

 

I'm interested in the DOF system, but have the LNE replacement in my car.  I did this for peace of mind, and still glad I did.

 

 

I see an analogy to the sealed chain tensioners in the SC's, and the move to pressure fed tensioners in the Carrera series 1984.  Seems that Porsche resolved the IMS issue by removal of the IMS.  Seemed the best 996 solution was the LNE bearing.   

 

One post noted that if the LNE is installed, don't put on the DOF as well.  Is this still the consensus?

 

According to LN and Jake Raby, yes.  

 

The LN style bearing is partially submerged  or splash lubricated without any additional help.  We have numerous customers running that way, as do many, many other shops; and without problems.  And with some now 20K units in service, they seem to have a point.

 

J'apprecie beaucoup vos commentaires

Thank you for the comments.   I enjoy my 996 C4 now.  It is plenty fast for me 0-100 km/hr by the end of second gear when driving with spirit.  It handles great and is a joy to drive.  I do not at this time anticipate tracking the car other than DE sessions.  The reality for me is driving like I am racihosng (when the rest of the drivers on the road are unaware a race is going on) gets a little nuts.  I have had the pleasure of taking my C4 to a high speed and the world changes (in a safe environment) ... things happen quicker and objects come up on you pretty darn fast.  I am not sure without training I could ever drive the 996 safely to its limits at this point.  I am a pretty good driver I some racing background on bikes so I know lines and apexes but I understand my limitations as well. 

 

I think I will take JFP's advice and spend some money on DE and enjoy a weekend or two learning what I don't know when driving.  Focus $$$ on preemptive maintenance and car of my car. 

 

Thanks for this discussion. 

Stutz, 

yours is a great comment.  

For those of us with real track experience, mine is most recently driving a race car on the track at the Daytona International Speedway, driving in traffic with lots of amateur "ricky racers" trying to get ahead at each stoplight, or lane jumping to gain a few yards on other drivers, is a bit nerve-wracking at times.  But then so is driving a C4S on a nice mountain road behind a camper towing a trailer, or a semi going up a hill.  The best approach is to approach these situations with patience.

But we all must admit that it is sometimes fun to take the curves on any open road in front of us as we would the curves and apex points on a road or autocross course, all the while, of course, staying in our lane, within the speed limits, and not going over the center line or fog line.  I think as Porsche drivers we've all played this game.

And beefing up our cars can be fun too.  So can auto-crossing those grand 911SC's.  Depends on our desires and points of view.  I just enjoy my C4S every day as if it was brand new right-out-of-the-box.  (With the LNE fix thrown in as a given.)

I totally agree with you and JFP.  Good points made.  And as my spouse has been known to say, "let's have fun."  

I love the oil wars.  this discussion never really ends, does it?

I ran 15-50 Castrol hi-perf in my SC.  I read somewhere that synthetics were ok, but not preferred for the 3.0.

Now using Redline 10-40 synthetic.

does the car have CIS injection?

yes, this sounds like a relay or connection issue.  It may be that the new steering column switch assembly needs a new or different relay.  I replaced the directional switch once, but don't recall having to replace any relay along with it.  good luck...

well, friends, this is almost as good as the oil wars posting of a few years ago.

I'm interested in the DOF system, but have the LNE replacement in my car.  I did this for peace of mind, and still glad I did.

I see an analogy to the sealed chain tensioners in the SC's, and the move to pressure fed tensioners in the Carrera series 1984.  Seems that Porsche resolved the IMS issue by removal of the IMS.  Seemed the best 996 solution was the LNE bearing.   

One post noted that if the LNE is installed, don't put on the DOF as well.  Is this still the consensus?

haven't been around the forum for a while, and glad to come on and see this thread.

I agree with Loren and the others.  Mods may look and sound great, and thats ok if thats what you want to do.  Lots of cool mods are all over the forum.

But for HP and handling you need to go to track mode.  For daily driving and looks, that's a totally different issue.

I did engine and exhaust mods on my old 911SC and kicked up performance pretty good.  totally different car.

My 996 hasn't really been touched, but I've considered wheels, coil-overs, front spoiler, exhaust tips, and painted low side panels just cause I think all that might look good.  No autocross or hot-track with this car.  Just daily driving, and I'm happy, and haven't poured $ into any mods.  Some might change over to C$S mode.  It would be easy.  

Is yours a daily driver like mine?  Do what you want re appearance for sure.  But its not cost effective to sink $ into horsepower.  320 or 345 is pretty good, all IMHO of course.  Cheers,

Personally, for the driving you do, I think White987S has the best idea.  Go with OEM replacements.

But, that said, if your looking for a coil-over set up, check the Bilstein PSS10.  These are not cheap.

And, as White987S also mentioned, why do you need this replacement work?  How many miles on your good-looking C4?  What symptoms have you experienced?

You might consider getting a 2nd opinion before you have the surgery.  Good luck. 

yes, plugs and coils seems right, but since you recently changed them my bet would be the problem is a loose connector.

Good luck.

I guess you guys are right. I will get some Techart formula wheels instead. (ps. I like the simplicity of the 996 interior vs. The interior of the 997)

Interesting discussion.  IMHO the rear-end of the 996 C4S is the finest ever on a Porsche.  Others will differ...

I'm getting used to the front end, and have actually embraced the whole 996 as just a fun car that saved Porsche.  Agree about the 997 interior....

At first I thought you were posting this up in jest, but then I realized that I had these same thoughts myself years ago.  I saw one "conversion" here that had actually painted over the headlight surround to match the old 993 look.

My own personal solution was to convert up to a Carrera GT.

More seriously, I'd forget the Techart wheels and look at RHAlurad.  Especially the Turbo-P's.  Or just stick with the factory Turbo Twists.

Whatever.  Enjoy.  You really can't go wrong whatever you decide to do.  Some of the fun is in just considering all these options anyway.

Cheers.

use the search engine.

this issue is well documented.

it could be as simple as a mouse chewing through a wire at the vent connection on top of the fuel tank.

really.  under the battery tray.  seriously, this happened to me.

lots of posts on this issue.  good luck.

oh no....

IMS.

Very sorry to see your post.  Good luck with this.

Check my post under "gas filling problem solved" for the full story.

Same thing had happened to me. Exactly.

But my fix was done via removal of battery and battery tray. Nest, and valve wires underneath.

Check my topic and posts on this issue for the whole story.

Glad your problem solved. Always big bucks, right? And for a darn mouse nest....oh well

ps: also check the fuse for the gas filler valve. I forget the number. check the fuse list, its on there. this topic, and the fuse #, is also covered more extensively in the forum, check on the search engine.

right. the connection to the vent valves should be checked. try pushing open the flap that you can see looking down into the gas filler pipe. Listen carefully. you should hear a slight click sound if the solenoid is connected properly. There's another vent that can cause the problem and the switch is located on top of the gas tank, under the battery tray. If either of these are not connected there's no air vented from your gas tank and you can't pump in any gas. You can fill the tank, just be ready to dribble in the gas about a filler-tube amount at a time, or one half squeeze on the gas pump handle. Takes about 30 min. Been there, done that. good luck.

this may not be helpful at this late date, haven't checked in for a while, but...

Put in a new Bosch 0280 218 055 on March 25 to resolve a CEL issue, codes P1502, 1120, 1122.

$265.00 via Indy's shop.

I agree with Dharn55, Porsche name on a battery trickle charger added about $100+ to price tag.

Nice to look at though....

check connectors in buckles. clean contacts. replace with gold connectors? strange that Durametric doesn't clear. maybe try it several times. good luck

I believe that unused plug is for a telephone.

I like the idea of moving the seat heater switches. but you don't have to make a new filler piece. that one is commonly called a "batwing," and I'm pretty sure its available for not too much money from Sunset or Pelican.

I think we'd agree that those unused blank switch filler plugs just drive us crazy. I've just gotten used to them and don't think about them any more. Your seat heater switch idea is very "cool."

great job!