judgejon

I always used Redline, but never had the issue you are experiencing.  Are you “speed shifting” it?  My issue was missing the shift from 2nd to 3rd when I “speed shifted” which has never been a Porsche thing.  Smooth shift motion, then never an issue.  Not sure if this helps you.  Hope your issue is not the synchro or throw-out bearing. That’s one reason it’s a C4$.... Good luck. 

Darn.  Sorry.  The tech is over my head.  Good luck. 

In the US, Northern California coast.

cheers,

But mostly we miss the Oxford environs. 

Greetings Simon. 
i don’t think the self locking can be disabled.  Others might have better information. 
Where are you in the UK?  I was at Merton College at Oxford.  We miss riding the bus into London and taking the tube everywhere. 
Cheers, j

My memory is the car will attempt to lock itself. Leaving front up could trigger alarm.  Also, after about a week locked, door will only open with key, and alarm will go off.  Why don’t you back car into garage?  Also, get a trickle charger that plugs into cigarette lighter, leaving window slightly open for cord to go through.  Lighter is not switched, and saves you trouble of connecting charger to battery.  Good luck. 

Hey, here’s a shout out, you did it !

great job!

I don’t really have a knowledgeable answer.  But there are some skilled folks on the forum who might. 
good luck

There is just too much on this to cover quickly in one answer.  As Loren would say, “the search engine is your friend.”

that said, my similar problem was caused by the wiring to the switch on very top of gas tank.  You have to go down to it by pulling off everything above it, like the battery tray, etc.  Took a few hours to get there, then 5 min to reconnect wires and remove nest of the mice that has chewed wires apart. 
there could be other solutions.  Search away.  Have fun. Good luck. 

And I recall that Porsche part numbers often change for update designation to the same part.  I remember this from the radiator coolant tank cap and other part numbers as well. 

20 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:

 

Welcome to RennTech 

 

From the sounds of it, the company in CA sent you a different unit which does not recognize your keys.  You need to either get your original unit back from them, or you are about to spend a lot of money for keys, immobilizer, and programing at your local Porsche dealer.  These units cannot simply be swapped, they have to be programmed to match the car and keys.

Agreed.  A trip to your local stealership seems to be on the horizon.  Good luck. 

No idea on cost of getting piwis, only that, I believe, it can only be done at a $tealership. 

Sorry I can’t help. But Joe, Loren, or Jeff will probably know.  Alternative is a visit to your local stealership for a piwis and wheel removal. Again, good luck. 

Or as Loren and Jeff suggest, time for a piwis at your local stealership. 
good luck. 

Did you ever check the wiring in the steering wheel assembly?

14 minutes ago, Ric Garwood said:

I asked for that.  I will definitely spend the extra money.  Might not make me faster, but I won't be worrying about that @#$% bearing.

Good decision.  Good luck. 

Good decision. Best thoughts. 

Yep, adding the name Porsche to anything also adds some cost.  All part of the deal. What’s your 996?  Mine was a C4$.  And there’s that old saying, “if you have to ask the price you probably can’t afford it.”  The issue, imho, boils down to spending big bucks now to avoid spending monster bucks later.  Owning a Porsche means keeping up the maintenance without hesitation.  Best not to learn that the hard way.  I had the LN replacement ims bearing, and following Jeff’s good advice would have put on The Solution when it was time to replace it.  Oh yes, ya gotta replace your replacement ims at say 30k miles.  So spending more now for The Solution makes better sense to me.  Good luck.  Most of all, Enjoy the car!

Yes.  I think most on forum would agree.  Right, Jeff?  Like replacing the old sealed hydraulic chain tensioners with oil pressure tensioners.  (That’s for those of us who might have had an air-cooled 911.). I think LE calls it “the solution.”

I don’t intend to start the “tire wars” up again, but I ran on Michelin PS2’s year round.  It’s not a winter tire, not m+s rated, but rated aa and great in wet weather.    295/30 on the back. 

My memory is that the 285 is an all-season tire, and the 295 is a summer only, not M&S rated.  
Look for tire sizes on inside of gas flap. 

Another thought.  Can you access the fuel tank on top where the sender goes in?

i remember changing out the sender on my ‘79 SC.  Easy job then, not sure on 996, but maybe there’re a gasket or something that’s cracked?  The filler switch wires are under the battery tray.  I don’t think you would get too much odor from filler check valve, as problem there would be more likely not opening to allow a gas full up.

I remember a mouse nest up under there once, chewed through the check valve wires.  it’s on the forum somewhere. Valve wouldn’t open, but a quick solder job on wires was quick fix.  Problem was the time to access the switch under battery tray.  Seemed lots of stuff had to get moved out first to get under there. 
Keep striving.  Good thoughts...j

I’d trust LN, but you might be able to use a different shaped substitute line or a pendable flex line. 

I’m pretty sure you would have seen any gas leaking out from small cracks in hoses.  Maybe worth another check for worn hoses, wet spots, etc.  Mystery for sure. 
Good luck, Mitch. 

Well Joe and Mitch , all I can add is the thought that “she’s real fine, my 409.”

good luck with this, the Chevy is supposed to be pretty reliable. The conversion must have been a challenge indeed, but I’d call the conversion a transgender switch to “bride of Frankenstein.”

Best to all y’all, j