judgejon

Don't you love it?

A guy asks for opinions, then does the opposite of what the contributors suggested.

Personally I would have gone for the '06 20K less miles , a newer car for only 3K more, seems like a no brainer to me, but then again I would not have had to ask anyone else about what I should do!

Thanks for your positive attitude and helpful comments. Did you read my previous post? There was a reason the '06 was only 3k more. It was a piece of crap but then again you probably would have bought it because it was newer and cheaper. I was mostly looking for AWD v RWD insight.

I'm 76 years of age, sonny, and I don't think I would have lasted this long if I took all advice, all the time.

I think you would have been right either way. I was a little anxious about going to the C4, but did it because of the winter rain conditions (no snow). I'm still getting used to the handling. Tough choice, but a win-win. I'm 62, and look forward having your choices. Cheers,

This doesn't happen to me very often. And like someone else said, it has never once happened with a Corvette. Corvette owners have a bad rap, but in my eye it's undeserved.

I agree. A good friend in Oregon has a 07 Z06, which has lots of great features, lots of horses, wow, and tons of torque. we meet twice a year to discover the back roads of central Oregon. Beautiful country. He generally leads the way. At passing lane situations he fires up and is long gone. But then I'm right with him as the rpms come up in 5th. Gotta respect that Z06... Never had an issue with an Corvetter ever.

this video confirms that the C4S is the best looking 996 (imho). thanks...

IMHO, the worst are the guys in the big trucks raised way high off the suspensions, using huge tires, and not bothering with mud flaps. If one of these guys gets in front of me I'll drop way back to avoid dealing with another cracked windshield. I'm wondering why it is that people in these enormous trucks always seem to have something to prove, and, pet peeve time now, never, ever, get a ticket for not having the legally required mud flaps to cover those huge tires. I think most, if not all of us, drive P-cars because we enjoy driving them and really don't want to unintentionally upset other people. Who needs the road rage? Who cares about some stupid kid in an obnoxiously loud Honda anyway? There was a long story that brought out this rant, but it's just not worth repeating. And sure, sometimes, all by themselves, the Porsche afterburners kick in. All by themselves, right?

After having it back in the shop to have the sensors cleaned, the problem persists.

To respond to a prior question that was posted, shutting off the PSM does seem to eliminate the lock-ups so this seems to be a PSM issue.

Is there an easy way to check whether the wheel sensors or steering angle sensors are malfunctioning? The shop that I took it to says that if the wheel sensors were bad I would have a PSM or ABS malfunction light that stays lit in the instrument gauge and this is not the case.

Thanks again,

03 C4S. was this issue ever resolved? I experienced a few psm kick-ins yesteday on hard left curves. I thought that maybe I had come off power too much in the turns, causing this psm to kick-in, but this thread could explain the reason. I haven't been on the same road with the psm off, but will in the near future. thanks in advance, j

I am a newbie to Porsche's; I have a 2003 C4S with 19 front and rear wheels. Can I lower the vehicle without issues and how complicated is it? Do i need to realign after lowering and what other issues might i encounter? Any help would be appreciated..

It seems my porsche sits higher at front than rear and its kind of feels "floaty" on highway at front end...

consider painting the black trim pieces to match the color of the car....

joel, thx for the connect, i sincerely appreciate that but something is awry.

i traditionally buy parts from sunset imports in OR as their prices are very similar to suncoast pricing so either aaron from suncoast's "joel" discount is super special or else. i know my indy matches sunset pricing.

i saw the tie rod. it's just one long piece put together by two separate pieces (inner and outer rods). you need that one long piece for each side of the car.

unfortunately i dn't have the part numbers with me as i just told my indy to pls replace the inner and outer tie rods. perry, so sorry i can't be more detailed around this :( but i have hope. the tie rods absolutely were the culprit. turning the steering wheel is a lot more fun now. :)

Ben, glad you solved the tie rod issue. I also order from Sunset and think their prices are about the best. Jeff, and in fact anyone of the guys you speak with, has always been very helpful. But move to LA? Oh boy. Best, j

High-performance tires wear fast and get noisy. Any replacement will be quieter when new. You must match the tire brand/type/N-rating on all 4 tires. If you switch brands you must buy 4 tires.

My tire pick preference order is:

Michelin

Bridgestone

Pirelli

Continental

Someone said his rear tires have 20k miles... allow me: why do you drive a Porsche? :) 12k-14k miles on 911 rears is about max for a well driven 911. 9k-10k miles typical.

Bridgestone 050 Pole Position. Note that the "pole position" tire is different than the standard 050. I felt some sidewall flex once on a hard left corner, but otherwise I run these for years with good results. I like the 280 wear and AA traction rating.

The screach has gone away as suddenly as it appeared. Go figure.

good. add this to "mysterious porsche issues" forum. ( I wonder if a light silicone lube of the window seals would help?)

not to steal this thread, but has anyone had screaching issues when adjusting the passenger seat, esp in moving it back?

Most part of the sun/sliding leaks be caused by the rear connection/attach of the drain system on the roof unit it self, You have to lower the rear part of the roof trim to check this out.

Thanks for everyone's help so far. How do I lower the rear part of the roof trim? Thanks again.

I'm pretty sure I've seen a TSM posted on this one.... try the search engine. good luck.

The CD player BUILD IN the PCM is a well known source of problems as you describes.

Hello, RFM. Nice to hear from you...

My radio is the cdr23, no PCM system. It seems to me the sound comes from an area in the center of the dash but forward of the windshield. Cheers,

a. It does not matter - you are checking the brake light switch.

b. They are likely off if their lights are on.

c. Not in my experience.

d. It can occur on any 9x6 series car.

Loren -

I read this post and I am having a similar problem. I asked the dealer to look into it and was told that sometimes dust gets into the ABS sensors and to try and "hard brake" to see if it could be dislodged. They said that if that didn't work, I would need a $3,500. computer replacement. Needless to say, the "hard braking" didn't do a thing. Could my problem be as bad as the dealer indicated or are they just churning for dollars?

The dust line was just that a line. The ABS sensors are magnetic sensors.

Find someone with the Durametric software, a PST2 or PIWIS tester and have them check for fault codes and run the diagnostic test on the ABS/PSM system.

It would be unusual for it to be the controller - 9 time out of 10 it is a bad brake switch or even a bad MAF.

Is it possible for the ABS/PSM module to pick up on a faulty maf, and the DME show no faults?

03 C4S. the psm and abs started coming on and I ended up replacing the alternator. and the battery...

I've heard a clicking sound, lasts about 10-15 seconds, like a woodpecker, coming from the center cowl area, forward from the dashboard, in the area of the battery. that's the best description I can do.

I think I get this same sound from time to time.

It’ll happen just after I unlock the door and enter the vehicle; sounds like its coming from the center of the dash, near the windshield, and lasts for ~5 seconds or so. Sounds almost like a relay cycling on and off very quickly. Doesn’t seem to impact any other functionality; was going to have the dealer look at it during my next service.

this is pretty much exactly what happened......

Yes, I have this sound from time to time. It's the CD player jamming. I think you can try to feed a CD to the player and see if the sound stops. It happens so infrequenly that it doesn't bother me much yet.

Gentlemen, thanks to all for your comments. The noise happens with the ignition off and no cd present in the cd player. Is there something that's part of the ac/heating system that would bleed out, like a pressure relief valve, or air bladder? Beats the h___ out of me.

re the cd player, I do have the standard issue of what could be called "radio freeze." It's the 03 Bose system. Turning off the ignition, pulling the key, and restarting is the only way to reboot the radio. This issue belongs in the "pinned" forum of Unknown Porsche Mysteries."

Further thoughts would be appreciated.

:welcome:

Ask them for the fault codes - without the fault codes everything is a guess.

Thank you. Porsche told me that they have recorded everything from the last 3 visits. After mentioning some of the possible problems (found on this site - again, thank you), I was promised that they will get to the bottom of it. I have been doing business with this dealer for 15 years - the car only has 30k miles so, hopefully, they will be honest and tell me what is really wrong. The difficulty is that they probably do know what is wrong and just do not want to reveal the issue. Will let you know.

Greetings. I've been away from the forum for a while, and just read this posting. what's up with info from the dealer? I'm interested as I have about 22k on my 03 C4S, which is now my everyday commute car. bought it in 08 with 14k miles.

we agree, this is a great site... and sometimes tmi can make you crazy. good luck.

I looked, but couldn't find this one in the TSM's.

I've heard a clicking sound, lasts about 10-15 seconds, like a woodpecker, coming from the center cowl area, forward from the dashboard, in the area of the battery. that's the best description I can do. I think it could be a bladder-type air relief valve, or something like that, having to do with the ventilation system. I've heard it twice in the last week. Both times with the engine off and relatively cool.

Loren, I found your post from 9/17/08, but couldn't find this issue addressed in any TSM.

Does anyone have an idea what this might be. Thanks to all, and..... cheers, j

Noise in the Dashboard Area

Loren, thanks for your unbelievably quick reply. I checked and I don't believe this noise is a rattle, etc. It could be described as the firing sound of a machine gun, or a jack-hammer, but softer and quieter for sure. Don't laugh, but I can almost duplicate it by blowing hard out of my mouth and "rattling" my tongue. Very weird. It's like the sound my portable tirepump makes when the battery is running down, but at a constant speed. Does this help?

I looked, but couldn't find this one in the TSM's.

I've heard a clicking sound, lasts about 10-15 seconds, like a woodpecker, coming from the center cowl area, forward from the dashboard, in the area of the battery. that's the best description I can do. I think it could be a bladder-type air relief valve, or something like that, having to do with the ventilation system. I've heard it twice in the last week. Both times with the engine off and relatively cool.

Loren, I found your post from 9/17/08, but couldn't find this issue addressed in any TSM.

Does anyone have an idea what this might be. Thanks to all, and..... cheers, j

I am going to look at a 1975 911S soon to possibly buy and finish a restoration on it.

Current owner says he has had a reputable shop rebuild both the motor and transmission and has all the detail on that.

Body is not is great shape, but nothing that cannot be fixed.

What should I look into on the motor and tranny rebuild? Searching the forum I have found these items - what am I missing?

* has the CIS air box been replaced or has a pop off valve been fitted

* does it have an eleven blade cooling fan

* were the head studs repalced with reinforced ones

* were the chain ramps inspected or replaced/were they replaced with new covers with a built in oiler

I had a 1976 911 S (until 2000).

Look for the last (stronger CIS airbox) - it should be 911.110.904.00. But still get a pop off valve.

Look for corrosion around the battery chassis contact area in the front trunk. Getting this fixed (re-welded) can be pricey.

Check to see if the car was a California car. Those cars had a different cat and ran hotter. These cars tended to cook the valve covers so consider replacing them with the Turbo ones (which I think is all they sell now).

If the car has been lowered then see if they adjusted the steering rack for the lowering (or there will be binding).

Otherwise I think you have covered the big things.

sounds good.

he has a refurbished Bosch K-Jetronic Continuous Injection System tuned to a new moyer tank (no pop off valve)

new head bolts

an 11 blade fan

a rebuilt battery chassis

will have to figure out if it was orginally a calif car - probably not as it is here in FL

not lowered

appreciate the input

wonder what it should go for

Check Bruce Anderson's valuation articles in Excellence Magazine for pricing.

yes, and check Jim Schrager's article on the 911sc's in the July, 08 Panorama. more good info on what to look for in an older, classic, 911. best....

i've run re050A PP, PS2s, and now Conti3s.

they're all very close in performance. i got about 20K miles from the rears of my last set (PS2).

we agree. Bridgestone RE050 PP's. I replaced a set of P-Zero Assym's with no lack of traction and better wearability. but the rears will make 20k only in my dreams.

looks good, Ben. thanks for the info. I'm still thinking about painting the front, side, and rear skirts, and going to the RH 3-piece turbo wheels. Best...

check out Simon's SC website. He lists all SC's by vin.... good info there on the vin codes.... take good care, j

y'all have Miranda rights re this top end discussion......

Well......my warranty runs out a month ago and the dreaded Rear Main Seal /Intermediate Shaft Seal leak occurs again at 74,000 miles........happened previously at 60k and 68k......... called Porsche North america and sent them 26 pages of service records on the car......they came through and paid for the labor and parts 100% for replacement of the IMS seal which was the culprit......

the upgraded RMS that was in there was okay, but I am paying for a new RMS seal to secure a 2 year warranty....warranty not available on out of warranty car unless I spend something as an owner expensed item related to a repair like this...... no additional warranty on free work on out of warranty car....funky rule...

The dealer recommended that I replace the bearing on the Intermediate Shaft, which is sold together with the IMShaft for $800.....and can't be bought separately....they will use the new bearing on the old shaft and we hope that fixes the issues once and for all.....I will have a new shaft for an expensive paperweight.........anyone else have a similar experience with the IMShaft bearing replacement, etc....?? The dealer feels that replacing the bearing will be a preventative measure in having a potential IMShaft failure that would be more critical and would cost about $ 5k in repairs versus paying approx. $ 700 after discount for the preventative repair now... any opinions on this course of action???

what year and engine? good luck....

Thanks everyone. I actually thought the blower was the smog pump. I have quite a bit about this car since. I do plan to eventually do the SSI heat exchangers.

and take a look at the fabspeed airbox...

to register or sell your car in CA you have to have a smog certificate, and that means you need to find a working air pump. this might take some time and diligent searching..

If your still looking for an sc, then really check out the information in this forum....all your questions will be answered. Dont automatically exclude the '79. I sold mine with 326k, and it was still going strong. ( it was either sell the car or build a new garage extension...still not sure I made the right choice.) the fan blades are good, the 3.0 is reliable, careful with the trans, and for sure put in a pop-off valve and carrera tensioners and then you'd be all set and good to go. good luck.

and check out a recent article in the Panorama about the sc's..... very good article about one of the best 911's ever. why did I sell mine you ask? well, besides the garage issue, my spouse was very keen on my finally having air bags and cupholders if she ever took a ride with me. re cupholders, well..... ask me if I care...