judgejon

Hi all, I have read a lot about leaking AC drain tubes, clogged AC drain tubes, and improperly applied door seals, door panel membranes, etc. But...this water in the back seat of my C4 cab stumps me. Its NOT from the top, the top seals, etc. Near as I can tell its not from any of the aforementioned issues...unless I am missing something. The AC for example seems to be dripping out from the underside as it should. The water is actually up in the pass rear seat well and on the floor of the pass rear. Is there such a thing as a convertible top drain tube for the cab tray or something like that? Any help that anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated. I've got the carpet, padding and rear seats and seat belts out now trying to dry things out :unsure: ...

sounds like you're on the right track. I had a mysterious leak into the back seat area of my older 911SC that turned out to be coming from the connection of one of the drain tubes of the sunroof bay. the tube ends up at a discharge hole at the back of the roof. found it eventually by taking out the headliner. guess is your right about a "secret" top drain tube, possibly in the convertible top bay area? good luck..

found it, strike the question. its a little cooling fan on the side of the amp. more interesting Porsche trivia. thanks, jl

If it comes and goes it is not the fuse - if it always off then it could be a fuse.

Back to normal. I wonder if it is the moisture in the atmosphere or what.

It happens two times in the past twe weeks already.

There was one time the bass all a sudden went crazy. All I did was to take the bottle of motor oil away from the little space between the amp and the side of the car, away from the cooling fan of the amp.

I did the same thing this morning. After the radio started acting up, I removed the bottle of motor oil and gave the cooling fan of the amp some room and the problem is gone.

Alright, I think I will have to make sure I am not putting anything there to obstruct the airflow near the amp's cooling fan.

I am just thinking out loud.

Thanks for reading and responding to my thread. :D

Please forgive my naivete, but I didnt know the amp has a cooling fan. where is it? this is the amp that bolted in by the right front of the spare tire in the "well"? interesting issue, thank you for posting...

wow...this is a great thread... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry58986 .. . it's noted other current awd tread.

take a look at the other thread going on re "understanding the aws system." interesting questions... hope there are some answers out there.

RennTechers,

So I've searched (largely in vain) to read an in-depth description of the P-car AWD system and how it works with regard to traction and PSM.

I get the whole viscous fluid thing, but I don't really get the sequence of events... for example... let's say you drop the clutch from a start: the rear wheels spin, which (simultaneously) thickens the "fluid" driving more power to the front wheels AND activates the PSM to control the wheelspin?? If this is true then, you should be able to turn off the PSM and do a smoking launch, because it should take at least a second for the front wheels to "get power" - meanwhile the back ones have laid a little rubber. However, I have been told doing such an action in my 4S will result in a clutch that explodes.

Seeing that the center differential is not mechanically controlled, there should be a little lag to the front wheels getting power, no?

If on the track, you begin to slide the car... the PSM kicks in AND the front wheels get more power... but doesn't the PSM cut the power... confusing...

I ask because Im nearing my first autocross (in the c4S) and want to understand what will happen if the car goes into a drift, and/or how to launch the car at the start.

Thanks to all!!

I think I understand the question, but I have no clue as to the technical answer.

In my own experiences, when I ran Pirelli PZeros for a limited time after getting the car, the psm did not come on. I made the mistake of not changing all the tires and put Potenza 050's on the back. the psm started coming on a lot. when it comes on in a curve its just **** distracting and feels scary to me. its gotten better since, but for the curvy mountain driving I often do I just turn it off.

When it kicks in I get a jolt as the wheels seem to lock up. It seems to me its the rear tires. I've had recent shoulder surgery and I really feel it in my shoulder when that happens. If I have the psm off and brake in a curve the abs comes on, and thats also pretty distracting, but that cant be turned off as I understand it.

so I think my problem is probably the tires. and my driving is hold-over from my older car and I'm still exploring the awd system capability (within reason that is) and that could also have something to do with it.

I'd have to say autocross with the psm off and find out what the car can do. I'd be interested in other answers to this thread and to your autocross experiences going both ways. Cheers, ....

I dont have the "valet" key for my car. I contacted Sonnen in Marin and they wanted me there, the car there, and about $300 bucks. I've passed on the valet key....

fair warning to all....

the car is up and running strong. smog appt on Friday at a shop with a good Porsche guy. serious advertising will start very soon, pca, etc.

12,500, but all serious offers considered.

Bob, did you ever figure this out?

I re-read your first post...did you say 30k miles on an '83? holy cow...I've got 326k on my '79, with an engine refreshing at 160k. I'm guessing the car was in a time capsule?

Pulley changed, problem solved.

Idler pulley, 996.102.119.58.

Replaced pulley felt as though it had a little restriction or brushing feel to it, new one smooth as silk.

belt dressing was great on the older v belts when necessary, but usually the problem was that the belt was simply too loose. I do not believe that it is recommended to use belt dressing on the newer serpentine belts..might cause a slippage and that could be big $$$.

Re the pulley, the mechanic said he could hear the high pitched sound coming from the pulley when he tested it. I'll post the details for sure.

Battery is a big Interstate MTP-93, installed new in late March. now hooked up on weekends to the Charge-omat II.

here's where the pulley lives. I read that the new 997C4S will be getting a reflector stripe again, but a bit narrower.

turns out the noise was caused by the alternator pulley. being replaced tomorrow at my local indy. similar problem just noted over on 6speed, seems this high pitched pulley noise is not that uncommon. thanks to all...

do you have to disconnect the battery before removing and cleaning the MAF?

Hello,

I was mounting off the radio (a Becker CDR22 on my 996 MY2002) and I founded, inside the radio place but lower than the radio , on the left side (see picture 1 and follow red arrow), a "box", around 1 x 4 inches, connected with a jack "audio type" and a red flashing led (see picture 2).

Somebody knows what is it?

Thanks,

Pizblu

On a more serious note, I have a LoJack in my car and that does not look like the "box" I have. Moreover, the LoJack techs would not mount the box in that area, rather more remote area of the car ( usually close to the battery area in a P-car hidden from clear view..

Does the RCA cable coming either out of the box ( or in) come from the radio antenna?? It may be an RF amplifier to try and get better radio performance from these marginal head-units. If you call LoJack customer service and explain you are the second owner of the car they can use your VIN number to tell you if the car was ever registered in their system as having LoJack. the number is 800-456-5225.

Demosan

thinking about this a little bit more, the box does remind me of a radio interference filter I installed on my old '68 Camaro. It helped to filter out static from the radio. the box was similar, although much smaller, and attached to the antenna and had a ground wire. I eventually got rid of the box, regrounded the car, and solved the static issue that way. the red light tells me its something different though.

Otherwise, it could be a federal witness program telepathy control device, but I'd still bet on light speed control box.

I just bought a CTEK XS3600 for my MY2003 996 Cab

I have connected the aligator clips directly to the battery. I left the front trunk lid open and manually disconnected the light infront of the spare tyre. The battery is still connected to the car.

I have also left the car unlocked.

The charger has been running 20 hours and it has not switched over to maintenance (trickle charge). Still shows the orange LED (charging)

How long has everyone else experienced to get from charging to maintenence mode?

Also, I could never get the porsche ctek charger to work when plugged into the cigaratte lighter. That's why I ended up buying the CTEK XS3600 and connected it directly to the battery.

thanks

Chucksta

Chuck, this is contra to all the reports re the Ctek/Porsche unit. I'll try mine when I get it and let you know. jl

thanks to all for the info. I got the Porsche labeled chargeomatic II at a good price from Jeff Clark up at Sunset Imports. couldn't resist the newer model with the label, but I guess that's my m.o. all the info really helped.

I do have a small Napa trickle charger on a gas emergency generator battery, but ended up getting the "label" for the C4S.

Beetles? well, why dont we do it in the road....?

I think I've seen that before...it's the controller for the ejection seat. Don't push that mysterious red button on the dash.

oem light speed jump driver.... (sold by Kragan/Sears/Pep Boys as "warp" speed jump driver). :)

Sorry, posted this to the wrong forum....

I replaced the battery in my C4S with an Interstate in May08. Planning to be away for a few weeks this summer, and everything I've read tells me to put a trickle charger on the car. So, which one? Porsche has 2, but I think the "silver" charge-omatic-II, 980.611.981.00, is the replacement for the "black" maintainer, 980.611.980.00. Both are available...which one is the preferred?

and, do I have this right, you just plug it into the always-hot cig lighter, plug the other end into an a/c, close the door on the power cord, or maybe crack a window open a little bit, and leave it alone.

Here's the timeline... My interior has been in shambles for for about two weeks now. I installled the rear speaker kit, a dension gateway 500 and hard wired my V1. My schedule only allows me a few mintutes or hours each night to get all the work done. Battery has been disconnected and reconnected about a dozen times. Today I wrapped it all up. Seats back in. All the trim back in. Double checked the power seat connections. Turn it on and I have an airbag light. Thought maybe I could disconnect the battery again after the seats were reconnected to erase the airbag light. Nope. It's all back together and now I have an airbag light. Anyone have any idea of what I did?

no clue, but Durametrics will clear the light. good luck.

Three times now in the last month I have had the airbag warning light come on. The crazy part of the situation is it turned itself off each time without using durametrics or any other tool. In fact for 2 of the 3 situations it turned itself off while I was driving.

Searching the forums everyone with airbag light problems had to go to the dealer or use the Durmeterics tool to have the light reset. Did Porsche change something in MY04 or do I have a bigger problem?

Still have have 10 days before my warranty runs out. Will the dealer be able to pull the codes even though the warning light is no longer present?

Any words of advice.

MY 04 boxster S

Ken

P.S. Time I donate some money to this great site.

good luck with this problem. I'd be interested to know the resolution. My air bag has not come back, yet. My revised guess is that I caught the light when I used the radio with the key out and the driver's seat belt not connected. weird. But I've cleaned the buckle connection and will hope for the best.

I've had several sporty cars leading up to the Porsche, but no car has ever emitted sounds like what I just heard a few minutes ago....ever. That was intense. I took the mufflers off my car to see if I want to purchase the muffler bypass pipes. Holy crap that was music to my ears.

yep. the air cooleds where even better..... many exhaust mods possible and the cars would produce a great "note" over 3500 - 4000 rpms.

An update to this issue. I had the motor replaced by a qualified, competent and professional garage and the Porsche runs sweet.

They dumped the information from the computer and they found the information that it contained.

Contrary to the statement that the Porsche dealership made that it could not find the time date stamp when the motor over revved and it must have been the moment before the motor broke; this new information dump said something totally different.

The car has 891.4 operating hours on it when the motor damage occured. The revs at range 1, 7300-7500 rpm and range 2, 7500-7700 rpm, happened before and up to operating hour 828. The four ignition hits in range 3 to 6 happened up to or on operating hour 164, 727 operating hours before the motor broke. The mechanic will attest that 4 ignition hits is not enough to make a motor break.

I have a feeling that the Porsche dealership had the time date information but would not share this with me so they get me to pay for the motor and then claim warranty costs from Porsche.

I am a happy camper since this is hard evidence that Porsche will have to address.

Happy, top down motoring in the city today.

I'm curious to know how this turns out...kindly update as the situation develops. good luck...

The fog light is made to only illuminate on one side so that people following you don't think your braking the entire tie the light is on. I also think is a legal safety regulation in some areas.

If you search a few people have posted a DIY on making both lights turn on when your fog light is on, but I wouldn't recommend doing it.

CA vehicle code section 24602b....two rear fog lights are ok, but it there's only one then its gotta be on the left side, controlled by an amber switch visible to the driver. Seems Porsche does it right on this one..... and the fog light can only be used in limited visibility situations, not tied into the brake lights.

Recommend buying the August (yes it is on the stands) edition of Excellence magazine and read the Market update by Bruce Anderson. It covers the74-89 911s with just what you need to know including pricing.

The on-line article by Jim Schrager is very good too. jl

Recommend buying the August (yes it is on the stands) edition of Excellence magazine and read the Market update by Bruce Anderson. It covers the74-89 911s with just what you need to know including pricing.

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