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judgejon

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Posts posted by judgejon

  1. belt dressing can keep the sqealing noise away,,,

    Thanks, good point that I hadn't thought about. Used lots of that stuff on my old '62 Chevy. The noise doesn't really sound like a belt squeal to me, more of an electrical motor whirl. Hard to explain. It's just barely there when the engine is idling, and I don't think I could capture it with a digital video. I was serious about the hearing aids. The high frequency sound is most noticible to me on acceleration when I'm actually wearing hearing aids. Wish I could pin this down a little better. I think it must be characteristic of the alternator. But I never heard it before the old alternator was replaced. Thoughts?

    Here's the car...

  2. 2003 C4s. I'm hearing a high pitched whirl sound at low speeds from the engine compartment. Likely masked at higher speeds. I've listened to the engine at idle and think the whirl sound may be coming from a replaced alternator or a pulley or the engine belt was that replaced at the same time. It's high frequency and maybe I should just turn down the setting on my hearing aids? Best to all....

  3. post-29762-1211513548_thumb.jpgHello

    I'm new to this site and new to Porsche. I purchased my first Porsche several months ago a 1986 M491 "Turbo Look" 911. I love the car and enjoy doing my own maintenance on it ( don't know if it's such a good idea ? ) however I'm about to attempt to replace a bad wheel bearing in the right rear ( anyone with info that will help I would appreciate it ). Also if anyone has any info on the M491 option I would appreciate reading it.

    Thanks Again

    sorry I can't help re the bearing, but you surely have one great looking 911. one of the nicest I've seen in some time. good luck, and enjoy the car. Here's one of mine...

  4. I have just received my 911sc imported from USA, wondering what engine oil to use, any recommendations ?

    Thomas living in Norway

    I've used 20-50 regular oil in my sc for years, and wouldn't use any oil higher than that. I have 15-50 synthetic in my C4s and that might be better in a colder climate for your sc. good luck, enjoy the car.

  5. I think you have to fill out a form and have a Referee (smog Referee) verify that parts are not available.

    Also, I found this at the CA Bureau of Automotive Repair.

    "California law limits the amount of money required to be spent on repairs needed to pass a biennial Smog Check inspection to $450 minimum. If you have spent at least $450 on repairs at a Smog Check station and your vehicle continues to fail inspection, you may qualify for a Repair Cost Waiver. A Repair Cost Waiver postpones the certificate requirement and allows you to complete the vehicle registration renewal. The Repair Cost Waiver can only be issued by the State Referee. Please note that the repair cost limit only applies to the biennial Smog Check requirement and does not apply to the repair of tampered emission controls or repairs performed prior to inspection. A vehicle receiving a waiver must be fully repaired by the next Smog Check requirement. A waiver may only be issued once to an owner of a particular vehicle and may not be issued if a waiver was issued during the previous biennial inspection."

    Right. Problem is selling the car without a smog certificate. Only solution is to find a smog pump that works, as mine apparently can't be repaired. Thanks much...

  6. Hi,

    This is my first post - so apologies for any faux pas...

    Ive just bought a 98 C2 - and was wondering if it was at all possible to retro-fit the facelift glovebox?

    I do like the look of the rear storage though - is anyone doing these for a 'fee'?

    ps: my wife had the same complaint when she replaced her '85 BMR convert with a '02. the interior was much smaller and eventually led to getting an suv. cheers...

  7. Hi,

    This is my first post - so apologies for any faux pas...

    Ive just bought a 98 C2 - and was wondering if it was at all possible to retro-fit the facelift glovebox?

    I do like the look of the rear storage though - is anyone doing these for a 'fee'?

    My 996 is a bigger car than my 911SC, but the interior storage is not as good. the interior is actually, I think, a bit smaller. Lots of room was taken up by the air bags, etc. The rear storage however is a little better, although the "seat tray" is more narrow and it's harder to fit stuff, like my viola case on there. there's a nifty shelf insert that adds some cubby holes in the old style glovebox, but I haven't seen anything like that for the 996's. Wish there was. Welcome and enjoy your ride...

  8. Hi Loren. Turns out the parts noted as "air pumps" at Oklahoma Foreign European are actually tire air pumps, not smog pumps, so I'm sol so far.

    I do have some phone numbers from a great guy, Jeff Clark, up at Sunset Imports up in Beaverton, WA, that I'll need to pursue. Jeff tells me that there are 8 smog pumps left in the world, in Germany, at $2,336 each, plus shipping. Ouch. I don't think I can do that and still get the car sold at any reasonable price.

    any other suggestions? I wonder if you've had experience with getting waivers from the DMV? I know that '75's and under are exempt, but I've never dealt with any waiver issues.

    thanks, and .....cheers, jl

  9. Does anyone know where I can find a new or rebuilt smog pump for a '79 911SC? I most regretfully have to sell my car, and it turns out that I will need to replace the smog pump to comply with California registration laws. Help would really be appreciated. Thanks to all, jl

  10. I have a 2001 2.7L 5 speed Boxster with no PSM. I also have a Plymouth Neon. As expected, Boxster grips the road better than the Neon, rain or shine. The PSM is far from necessary. The Boxster, even without PSM, is going to handle very well, even in poor weather (assuming you have the right tires for it). I do fine without PSM and haven't felt like I've needed it yet. Overall though, PSM is a good idea and will add a bit of extra control in that unexpected situation when you need it most.

    On the very rare occasions that I do lose traction from my rear wheels taking a turn on my Boxster, it is fun. The back end whips out a bit, I correct a bit with the wheel and give it some light throttle and grip comes right back. PSM would probably be a bit safer, but I think it's possible it would take a bit of the spirit out of my car. That lack of spirit and exoticness seems to be your complaint about the 987.

    I agree that if you're getting a new car you should get the pcm. I'm now using my 2003 C4S as a daily driver, and after driving a 911SC for years have had some adjustment problems. I'm guessing the mid engine Boxster is like the 4-wheel drive...going smooth in and out of corners, rather than hitting the apex and powering out of turns with max throttle steer. Smoothing it out through the curves is the key. I can't drive the C4 like the SC because the pcm comes on in the corner and scares the pants off me. so I usually turn it off when driving over local mountain roads. but I wouldn't have the car without it and intend to keep it on in wet conditions. I did make the mistake of putting a different brand of new tires on the rear, and should have known better, but I'm dealing with that. good luck....

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