judgejon

Yes, exactly right.  

when spouse lost keys it meant trip to  stealership with car and remaining key.  Had to order key in advance giving vin info etc.   once at dealership only took about 30 min.  Only problem was we live about 4 hours from dealer.  Made a nice day out of it though.  

for Lexus key lost at same time, I had our second key with me and we simply stopped at Lexus dealership on way home from trip and they did up a new key in under an hour.  And for under half cost of 996 key.

just something to factor into Porsche ownership necessities as needed.  

MAF is my guess.

You need a trip to the stealership. 

I had to replace a key earlier this year. 

Bring your credit card and a hanky.  Look for about $400 or so.

(ps:  folks at Sonnen in Mill Valley were great and very helpful) 

No personal experience with seat removal, but I have seen threads on the forum about this.

The search engine will be your best friend on this issue I'm sure.

good hunting...

Yep, just a dust cap.

Info only.

Just found out there is an updated version of Durametric to download.

I believe it is to allow Macan interaction, but I believe it best to always be current.

Found this out only because of classic air bag light that I had not seen in some time.

I think Durametric is now 6.5.5.5

wish I could help with this, but I am stumped.

how about checking for an in-line fuse on motor connection or anything else loose under the seat?

good luck with this.  I'd be interested in the solution.

If it is a seat motor issue, I'd bet the passenger seat motors are interchangeable.  

Wyovino is right I believe. This would keep some tension on the slider piece. 

But, still could be drag-chute release.   

My best guess is that it serves as sort of a dustcover to prevent stuff falling into the shift track.  slides back and forth with gearshift I'd bet.

Could also be a sort of lock-out or pressured spring to prevent you from accidentally going into reverse.  There was something like that on my 1968 Camaro.

Alternatively, it could be the safety lock-out for the ejection-seat mechanism.

Alternatively, it could be the parachute release lock-out for quick stopping assist when hard-breaking occurs over 145 mph.  I think this was another of 573 options available on the car.

Good luck from up northwards of you.

Very cool to post the diagram and pic.

another thought...

I had to have window regulator replaced in drivers door as window was not lowering when door opened and was hitting the molding when closing.  A bit of a pain..

Regulator assembly replaced and now window drops a little bit as it should, but makes kind of a thud sound when going up as door is closed.  Might need an adjustment, but I'm for sure not taking door apart to do that.

Maybe your sound is something like that?  Kind of a thud from top of window area when door is closed and window goes back into fully closed position?

Hope you figure it out.  This kind of stuff drives me crazy too.   Cheers,

replace MAF, don't bother to attempt to clean. Just a thought....

my key only unlocks doors.  there is a separate button for front compartment.   2003 C4$

are you sure the sound is not just the door lock mechanism?

It's possible there is a loose part of the window regulator assembly that's getting bumped.

This might involve the parts for the windows to drop down just a little bit when door is opened, and then go back up when door is closed.

I'm not sure if windows also drop a little on opening door on a cabriolet.  Possible.

Good luck.

throttle body, butterfly, but mostly MAF are what this seems like to me.  See Lorens post above on this thread.

Good luck.

could these be part of the optional mechanism for release of the speed-brake parachute in hard braking from over 125mph?

Right.  2010 indeed.  

Good to read the fine print.  

Cheers, 

might be good to replace the set while your at it.

good luck 

I think that's why most of us have a Durametric.

Cheers.....

"Drive it like you stole it."

Enjoy.  Good job with all this.

Principle 1: Understand the question before looking for the answer.

Principle 2: Start at the top and work down.

Were these valves/switchs already replaced earlier in the process?

If not, ...

what was the cause of the metal particles found in the oil?

Cheers, 

25 minutes ago, BufordTJustice said:

I agree with Jeff.

 

Also, if metal byproducts are that much of an issue, you really need to step up to an LN screw-on filter adapter (with a quality screw on filter like a Napa Platinum, Fram Ultra, Royal Purple, etc) and a full-circle FilterMag setup (two filter mags) along with very short oil change intervals.

 

However, I'm still kinda alarmed. What did you find was causing the metal to be present in the oil?

There you go.....

Hi, Leo.

Welcome to the forum.  I was in San Diego in late 60's and early 70's.  I remember it all too well.

So, your question is really a classic "no brainer."  Jeff is absolutely right.  Please do not reuse your old bearing.  Mine is actually sitting proudly on a bench out in the garage, along with an internal oil pump, and 2 timing chain tensioners from my 911sc.  These are all very pretty and interesting to look at.

Seriously, strongly consider going with an LNE retrofit bearing or putting in the LNE Solution.  I will be facing this question in about 10k miles.  Not to replace, but to replace with which of the two.  I'll probably go with the Solution.

This is all somewhat problematic, because there is simply no known way to predict when or if an IMS will fail.  This issue resulted in a successful class-action lawsuit against Porsche, and lots of money got paid to people who purchased a 996 only to have the engine blow-up.  Literally.  Others, like myself, never had a problem, but for peace of mind changed over to the LNE retrofit "just because."  I still feel it was money well spent, and still enjoy winding it up every now and then.

For your own peace of mind, and because you have the ability to do the work yourself, and because you already have the engine apart, you should put in the update.

Lots of info on the forum about this issue.

Good luck.  Cheers,

wir brauchen ein video deiner abenteuer.    und von deiner freundin auch.    

the switch is in the fuse panel, and comes through the fuse panel cover.

I'll try to attach a photo of cover and fuse panel.

welcome to the forum.

glad this was an easy fix for you.

sometimes....well, sometimes for somethings there is an easy answer.

Cheers,

ps:  the switch actually comes through the fuse box cover, unless it was optioned to one of the blanks up on the horseshoe around the radio/ac.

I bet your right about the sensor being on top of the gas tank.  Good luck with all this.  With the racing fuel cap and a big tank you will  soon be running full out at Thunderhill.