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Highlander

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Everything posted by Highlander

  1. Highlander
    This is an easy, easy fix. If you pull the front plastic undertray off, you will easily see the bushings. They are cheap, I recall paying $17 each when I bought 2, a few years back. $150 sounds like a complete rip-off. Graeme
  2. Highlander
    To fit an '03 OEM Porsche top on an '02 or earlier requires the frame to be replaced. This is a glass windowed aftermarket top that fits on the regular frame used for the plastic windowed tops. Graeme
  3. Highlander
    225/45-17 is exactly the same diameter as the stock 205/50-17 and is a very common "upgrade". I myself have that same combination (225 & 255) on my stock wheels. The extra pressure up front is another nice improvement over the stock pressure and does help to crispen up turn-in. Graeme
  4. Highlander
    I'd say you have 3 choices. 1. ROW M030. If you go this route, just contact Suncoast Porsche and get the whole enchilada. 2. H&R coilovers. 3. Blistein PSS9 Whatever route you take, unless you have prior experience with suspension setup, I'd go with a turnkey package. When you start the mix 'n match process, unless you really, really, know what you are doing, you'll almost certainly end up with a slower less easy to drive car. Just IMHO, Graeme
  5. Highlander
    Imagine a rotor lying on the ground flat side down. The part that is sticking up is the bit that goes over the hub and called the "hat". As a point of reference, the last set of Porsche OEM rotors I purchased (shipped in an actual Porsche box) did not have the hats painted with the cadmium anti corrosion coating. Graeme
  6. Highlander
    Where did you get your frozen rotors? I know a few people swear by them and might give 'em a try next time I need replacements. Graeme
  7. Highlander
    No reason to stray from stock for pads/rotors. For fluid, any DOT4 fluid available in your local auto store will do. Do a price comparison using your local dealer and RennTech board sponsor Sunset Imports (click for details) and you will be pleasnatly surprised how cost effective OEM parts can be. Good Luck, Graeme
  8. Highlander
    Don't sweat it. The reduced track will make no significant difference. If you fell you really, really need to get that missing track back, you will have to use 15mm or bigger spacers. The hub-centric wheel nature of the wheel/hub mount makes is difficult, if not impossible to use spacers >6mm and <15mm. A pair of 15mm spacers will run ~$200 Graeme
  9. Highlander
    I have stock US M030 struts with the EVO (manufactured by Neuspeed) springs. EVO states approximately a 40mm (1.5") drop. I measured 1.25" (~35mm) drop all around. Even lowered "only" 35mm, I have to be extremely careful with speed bumps and other dips/rises anywhere I drive. EVO Suspension Components Graeme
  10. Highlander
    I guess I have not made myself very clear. I am running 17x10's offset 50 with a 3 mm spacer. It will look just like in the pictures below (only with lower profile tires since you are planning on 18's! As an aside, anyone recognise the lady in the middle in the first picture? If you don't know, click this link: http://gwl.rmsolo.org/ASP-05/pages/P6260147.html
  11. Highlander
    WRONG, WRONG, WRONG, WRONG, WRONG! Did I say wrong? This is not the first time I have heard Wheel Enhancement give out incorrect info. I am personally running a 10" rear wheel with a 50mm offset and a 2mm spacer on a 2001 Boxster S. Without my 2mm spacer, the tire has a very slight rub on the parking brake cable. If anything, a 10mm spacer will introduce fitment issues with the outside of the tire rubbing on the fender. Graeme
  12. Highlander
    MAYBE. The fronts will fit fine. The rears may or may not. YOU WILL NOT KNOW FOR SURE UNTIL YOU TRY IT. The clearances we are talking about are so small, manufacturing tolerances on the car and the wheels introduce some uncertanty. Sorry we can't be more definitive, but hey, that's the way it goes. You will not need longer bolts if you use 3mm spacers, the stock bolts will work perfectly well. Graeme
  13. Highlander
    Probably. Based on my experience with my - and other - cars, yes. However, each car is a little different and we are talking millimeters. Even if you have to use a small 2-3mm spacer, these will work fine with the stock wheel bolts. I am currently running 275/40-17's Toyo Proxes T1-S and have run Kumho Victoracer V700's of the same size on 17x10 wheels with a 50mm offset. I get very, very minor rubbing unless I use a 2mm spacer. Good Luck, Graeme
  14. Highlander
    They should fit just fine. If you install a 275 tire out back, you may need a 2 or 3mm spacer in the rear to allow the tire to clear the parking brake cable. A 265 tire should clear everything. Graeme
  15. Highlander
    Fronts, yes. Rears, only with an 18-20mm spacer Higher offset means the wheels mount further in to the center of the car. The good news is spacers effectively reduce the offset and you need no more than 48mm offset on a 10" wheel to avoid rubbing the parking brake cable mounted to the lower diagonal arm. Graeme
  16. Highlander
    My bet is whoever did the install did not get it quite correct. It is very easy to misinstal the white spacer piece shown in this picture. If you want to pull the rear strut out, check out the R&R instructions here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4091 Good Luck, Graeme
  17. Highlander
    The e-brake switch is a different switch from the footbrake switch. Electrical problems are notoriously difficult to diagnose for DIY folks. I'd recommend you take it to an independant shop and let them look at it. Graeme
  18. Highlander
    Go with what fits and looks good *to you*. The wheel/spacer combo you originally listed will fit well and look fantastic IMHO. Go for it and post pics once you're done. Graeme
  19. Highlander
    Yup, same for all 986 models, both base and "S". Graeme
  20. Highlander
    If the wheels really are 18x10, you'll probably need a 2 or 3mm spacer to slear the parking brake cable that runs down the outside of the rear diagonal brace. I'm running 17x10 ET50 with 275's on the rear and need the spacer or it rubs just a smidge. Graeme
  21. Highlander
    Everything you have said makes sense and should work with no problems. Have fun, Graeme
  22. Highlander
    I have a report on the Pagid street pads (black) I put on in March. They are toast! They worked well, had good feel and decent bite, but were a little noisy on the street. I completed 7 track days and 4000 miles - all on street tires. I was surprised to find the friction material was almost completely gone! Interestingly, both front and rear have worn equally. In the past, I have gone through 2 sets of fronts for each set of rears so this wear pattern is atypical of the Pagid Orange race pads I have used in the past. Graeme
  23. Highlander
    You need to remove the wheels to get to the endlinks and the front plastic undertray to get to the swaybar mounting bolts
  24. Highlander
    Swaybar to side member (M10 1.5)- 48ftlbs Swaybar to droplink (M10) - 34ftlbs Droplink to hub carrier (M12) - 63ftlbs My guess would be the droplink bolt where it attaches to the swaybar is your culprit. This is pretty common and fortunately an easy DIY. I'd recommend loosening off the bolt, then torquing to specs above to make sure it is properly torqued. Good Luck, Graeme
  25. Highlander
    Tagging noise? Can you describe it in a little more detail please. Graeme
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