cbbepop

Hey all!

I searched the forum and I googled and I went through my owner's manual.
Im trying to program my memory seat to my remote. Meaning when I unlock with the remote the seat dont move to some weird position.

Info:
2001 MY.
There is no key button near the M button in the car.
When I put the key in ignition and turn it on position without starting the car
I push M and press remote unlock on remote keyhead and hold for 15 seconds and this has no effect at saving this remote to this seat position,

Any help is really appreciated! I don't think my memory seat thing is busted...

Hey

I had something similar to this. After I started the engine, it felt like it lost power and all the lights on the dash came on as well as the engine temp light and the gas low indicator light (it had gas).

This incident happened right after I filled up at the gas station too.

I shut it off and turned the engine back on a couple times and each time the same thing happened.

Finally out of options and I am willing to try anythng I gave the gas pedals a couple pushes and WOW the engine started and stayed on and I drove home fine.

For info sake it's a 2001 MY boxster S with tiptronic.

The AOS was replaced 2 month ago when this happened.

Where can I get this rear end? Spoiler, bumper, and tail lights?

He probably got all these parts seperately. I seen the spoiler available on ebay. (just type in boxster spoiler)

I have those same led taillights. I got mine on ebay too. They're multiple variations and overall two different types of LED lights for 986 models. Its down to personal preference.

Got the car back, had the problem again. But this time it restarted. The remote control key now is dead too. So bizzaar its like anything electrical is going haywire now, gremlins

*update*

The mechanic just called and said it was the charging system and he charged the battery. I have to have him explain it better to me in person.

Edit* said the CEL was a P0562

hmmm

So about the bad connection, could the battery have a bad connection to the alternator?

The electrical part is on the back side of the ignition switch.

So it wouldn't be part of what they replaced at the dealership?

I found the part on Suncoast, this is what they replaced: http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/AUDI4A0905849B.html?Category_Code=986Keys

I'll go reinstall a new battery and see if that does the trick. Mechanic is still working on pulling the codes for the CEL

Hi

I was on the road today, 2001 Boxster S automatic (60XXXmiles) when all of a sudden I got a CEL, then every other warning light started flicking on. Then the AC and radio went on and off. The Instrument gauge was next to start flickering too and I noticed the trip odometer reset to O. RPM stayed stable (no spikes or rough idling). I was stopped at a red light so I decided (in all my brilliance) to shut the engine off and restart it to see what would happen. <--- BIg mistake. Car would not restart...*click click click* and instrumet panel would flutter to life then shut down like the battery is dead or something.

I had the car towed. Also did I mention I was stopped at a red light when my car will not restart. Needless to say when the light turned green I had plenty of ppl give me the finger on their way around me despite I had my hazards on immedietly.

What does everyone think happened? I had a new battery put in last year. I'm thinking...the alternator? maybe starter? Maybe even sparkplugs since I never changed them at the 60000 mile maintance.

Any and all help is appreciated.

If it was only the alternator, you probably would have only gotten the "battery" icon to light up by itself at first.

A more likely cause of the symptoms you describe is the ignition switch, and more specifically the electrical portion of the ignition switch. A common fault in recent vintage Porsches.

Do a search here and you will see lots of similar issues caused by a faulty ignition switch.

The "tick-tick-tick", indicating an almost dead battery is a little puzzling, unless there was a bad connection.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks for the responses.

Is the top portion of the ignition swith the electrical part or the mechanical part?

Cause I had a sticky ignition and the dealership changed out the top part last year (not the whole revised one piece stalk, just the top)

Hi

I was on the road today, 2001 Boxster S automatic (60XXXmiles) when all of a sudden I got a CEL, then every other warning light started flicking on. Then the AC and radio went on and off. The Instrument gauge was next to start flickering too and I noticed the trip odometer reset to O. RPM stayed stable (no spikes or rough idling). I was stopped at a red light so I decided (in all my brilliance) to shut the engine off and restart it to see what would happen. <--- BIg mistake. Car would not restart...*click click click* and instrumet panel would flutter to life then shut down like the battery is dead or something.

I had the car towed. Also did I mention I was stopped at a red light when my car will not restart. Needless to say when the light turned green I had plenty of ppl give me the finger on their way around me despite I had my hazards on immedietly.

What does everyone think happened? I had a new battery put in last year. I'm thinking...the alternator? maybe starter? Maybe even sparkplugs since I never changed them at the 60000 mile maintance.

Any and all help is appreciated.

nice

So no problems with the softronic flash? I was just gonna get that alone but now seeing your results i'm thinking of getting headers, air intake, and new exhaust too. Did you do the ECU flash after everything was installed?

also check out this spoiler

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230367875702&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Before I went with a zeintec "caymanesque" wing

This spoiler wing was high on my list

I don't know about the quality/fitment though seeing as how I almost never seen any boxster with it

^ yeah I like those kind of spoilers too, they're also easy to install, unlike marking and drilling holes into your bootlid

Sounds like yours is a DIY kit, like mine. When the top was off, I removed the triangular rubber pieces, trimmed them to seat better, and then re-glued them with super-glue. They are much better now.

In my case, the central clamp would not close until I loosened the mounting screws for it. Then I could close it, making a tight seal. After that, I re-tighten the screws.

If you have a gap after closing the latch, maybe it is necessary to add a strip of material behind the front rubber seal to close the gap.

I'll be in MA in a couple weeks with the Boxster, hope to see your car on the road too!

Yeah I contacted Zeintec about the issue and they sent me a rubber seal for the gap free of charge. Just haven't had time to put it in yet.

And yeah I think it be great to have more East Coast meets. I saw a mini cooper meet at Umass Boston just a year ago or so...omg

I also had problems getting the ceiling piece to stick, with contact cement, bondo, epoxy all failing. What finally worked was 3M automotive double stick tape. I have not tried it in high heat, however, because I remove the top in the summer (and will do so shortly).

I was not referring to wind noise, but rather engine, axle, and rubber-on-road sounds, all of which I actually like. When I intially fitted mine I did have some wind noise in front, but that was cured by adjusting the front center clamp to tighten the front seal. On yours, is something is sticking out, like one of the rubber pieces?

Loren, at this point the thread is a "review of an item" ... and the item could be considered a "Porsche item," I think.

How did you adjust your front center latch to tighten the seal?

And yeah the "rubber corner pieces" that look like black triangles don't sit flush with the window or window seal for that matter. Air hissing noise was coming through that area and where the front top meets front of windshield.

As one of the few Zeintop owners in the US, I find that quite interesting, and pretty shocking! Where does the Bose system interfere with the Zeintop? Is there no possible compromise between some sound quality loss and installation of a top you must like [at that price, you should]? Impossible to remove the interference temporarily? One of the funny things about the Zeintop is that engine and road noise becomes a little louder in the cabin with the top on.

That said, you should be able to find a buyer on one of the forums. Try 986forum.com and porsche pete's boxster board. I have seen many posters remarking that they would like one, but at a discount. Good luck selling it, but I'm a little disappointed that I might never see another one in the northeast [i'm in New York].

Im sitting under one in Boston. And yes I too have had some problems with wind noise. On mine its coming from the front driver's side. It doesn't seem like a fitment issue, more of a calibration issue with the spinlocks or something...

Also I have had the ceiling cloth lining come off and I epoxied it back on...I wonder what adhesive was mean't for that.

That looks cool

I would black out the spoiler or carbon fiber it and that will complete the look...

oh yeah and as mentioned above I would blackout the wheels :P

This is a rewrite of a previous post to make it more appropriate for this forum...

Anyway, if you're thinking of getting a Zeintop, it will not fit your Boxster if you have the Bose sound system installed! ...I don't think this information is currently included on their website...

I found this out the hard way, and their return policy is not the greatest... consequently, if anybody in central MA wants one for much less than it would take ordering direct from Zeintec, mine's for sale!

Matt

bump for a good seller

Blah I should have done the install myself. My swich broke also a few months back. I had the electrical portion changed for $200 and was quoted $500 to get the whole thing changed to the 1 piece ignition stalk by the dealership.

Thanks for all the replys! I wonder why the cayman first generation went with a narrower rim on the rear?

I did not say that it is not possible, i just gave the original tyres size for 17 inch 987 rims and the potential problems associated with. The try out is your responsibility.

ok thanks,

also, so if it turns out I need spacers then probably need longer lugnuts?

987 OEM 17 inch rims are mounted with a little for Porsche unusual tyre sizes: front 205/55/17 and rear 235/50/17 instead of the more usual tyre sizes on the 987 optional 18 and 19 inch rims and the 986 17 inch rims. It is important to reach the same overall wheel height (inclusive tyre), with the 987 wheels as with the 986 wheels on your car to provide strange phenomenons as unexplained Tiptronic, ABS, TC, etc. problems. 987 is wider than a 986 also, i never don it but i would take a good look, you never know with this balloon tyres, they take a lot of room, especially the rear ones.

So the tires from the boxster S 17"s won't fit the cayman 17"s then? shoot, was trying to save some cost that way haha

Sorry if this question has been covered before. I tried searching but only found questions to do with 18" or 19" wheels.

My question is would the Cayman 17" wheels: http://www.wheelenhancement.com/index.php?t=WheelDetail&id=176

require spacers and longer lug nuts when they are going on a 986 S currently fitted with Boxster S 17" wheels: http://www.wheelenhancement.com/index.php?t=WheelDetail&id=46

I noticed the widths are different so I'm guessing the current tires from the boxster 17" can't be changed over onto the Cayman 17"?

Any help is greatl appreciated, thanks!

the new style housing has a larger switch that should not break anymore, this is the only way available from Porsche, with non oem it is possible to get the old switch but I would recomend to replace the complete housing.

Aww stinks! I was hoping that "one notch to the left rule" was how all porsche ignitions work hahaha.

Ok I'll just order it off suncoast...

Thnx for the answers!

Hello everyone

I have searched the old threads for sticky key issues and honestly Im still puzzled whether I have such said issue.

What I experience is that when I insert the key into the ignition, it goes in smoothly and comes out smootly. But when I turn it all the way to the right to start the car, I have to bring it back to the left one notch for lights, radio, ac and even wipers to be turned on.

Is this what I described a sticky key issue? And for such an issue would I need to replace the ignition lock housing with switch or ignition switch? I ask this because the parts are sold seperately on sunset coast and I'm gonna buy it off here :D

Any advise is appreciated

Thanks!

Oh and the make is 2001 Boxster S

Each key has a unique ID in a RFID tag ( the little grey pill) that is associated with the key. The RFID tag is normally passive but can be energized by conductance which allows it to transmit its unique ID. This is very similar to hotel door card keys or EZ-Pass pads for paying tolls, etc.

When you stick the key in the ignition and try to start the car, there is a little transmitter/receiver in the key mechanism that pings the RFID tag, the tag transmits its ID, and if that ID is registered in the Car ECU key database, the car will start. If not, then no start.

Adding the key's ID is relatively simple, but it requires 2 things, the Keys ID number, and a Porsche System Tester to access the car's key database and add the ID number. If you have one key that is already associated with the car, adding additional keys does not require knowing the ID number of the new key, but if you break or lose all of the keys the car already knows about, and don't have one that will start the car, then you have to have the Key ID of the new key to be manually coded in.

Depending on your relationship with your dealer, many will recode new or additional keys for gratis or charge you about a half hour labor. Others may try to soak you for more. I would not pay more than $50 to get a key coded (assuming you have the key and it is physically cut already).

If you are starting from scratch, expect to pay about $175 for the key blank, another $50 - 100 to get it cut, and another $50 - $100 to get the car coded.

Hmmm If I get a remote control head, do I need to know the ID for that remote control head to get it programmed? By that I mean can I just bring in the remote control head to my dealer and they can program it to my car no problem.

I do have one working remote control key...the second will act as the spare.

Yes, you need the unique ID to program a new key.

Yes thats what I thought too, so I do need the ID of the new remote key to program the remote to the car? darn, i found a good deal of someone selling their fully working remote control head online but they don;'t have the ID to that remote

Each key has a unique ID in a RFID tag ( the little grey pill) that is associated with the key. The RFID tag is normally passive but can be energized by conductance which allows it to transmit its unique ID. This is very similar to hotel door card keys or EZ-Pass pads for paying tolls, etc.

When you stick the key in the ignition and try to start the car, there is a little transmitter/receiver in the key mechanism that pings the RFID tag, the tag transmits its ID, and if that ID is registered in the Car ECU key database, the car will start. If not, then no start.

Adding the key's ID is relatively simple, but it requires 2 things, the Keys ID number, and a Porsche System Tester to access the car's key database and add the ID number. If you have one key that is already associated with the car, adding additional keys does not require knowing the ID number of the new key, but if you break or lose all of the keys the car already knows about, and don't have one that will start the car, then you have to have the Key ID of the new key to be manually coded in.

Depending on your relationship with your dealer, many will recode new or additional keys for gratis or charge you about a half hour labor. Others may try to soak you for more. I would not pay more than $50 to get a key coded (assuming you have the key and it is physically cut already).

If you are starting from scratch, expect to pay about $175 for the key blank, another $50 - 100 to get it cut, and another $50 - $100 to get the car coded.

Hmmm If I get a remote control head, do I need to know the ID for that remote control head to get it programmed? By that I mean can I just bring in the remote control head to my dealer and they can program it to my car no problem.

I do have one working remote control key...the second will act as the spare.