aracerx

Has anyone actually removed the cat cells in replacement of a free flow tube? I have differing opinions and would be most interested in anyone's experience with this on a CGT? thanks Mark

This is a long shot, I have one customer who drives on a gravel road to and from his house everyday- appox 20km/trip- his '99 boxster started making a squeal noise when hot which was coming for inside the bell housing. A very fine dust had collected and we just hosed it off, sparying water into the bell housing and the noise has not returned so far. I can't say for sure what was causing the noise... possibly the release brng. Best have a closer look at that water pump.

thanks guy, it really is nice when you guys are out there trying to help. after complete drive removal as well as pulley, we confident that the problem is the intermediate bearing INSIDE the $pit!.

I did try to investige R/R oil separator just for giggles however I cannot find any DIY on the procedure

Your help is VERY appreciated. I try to help also when I know what the problem is:-)-regards Mark

Stupid me, I figured it out! I guess I must have moved the steering wheel a little bit, as it was locked and thus(!!!) no key movement.

It is amazing how it moves when the steering wheel is not locked!

But a big thank you to Loren for his DIY on the ignition switch replacement!!!

capt601

Hats off to the Cap! not too many of us (me?) would admit to his faux pas.....The "Cap" is one of reasons I love this site! So many REAL people are on this site VS. others that "profile" - Mark

I would bet good money that it is the oil seperator. Here is an easy fast test.... when it's making this noise, open the rear trunk and remove the oil dip-stick. If the noise goes away it's the oil seperator... the seperator and J-tube have been updated to a newer part that is supposed to have a longer service life. It's a straight forward,easy DIY project. Best of luck!

Hi-thanks for the suggestion. I had the oil fill cap off when the screaching noise was occuring.-Keep up the ideas though

Only TSB for the belt side of the crank is for the oil seal (FMS).

well, I thought it would be a shot in the dark, but worth asking about anyway-what a noise too! Screeaaach!!!!! at dile and then the engine dies. Someone mentioned the oil separator? Don't think this noise is results from that, also check both blower motors on engine as a precaution to diagnosis. Happy Holidays!

Are you sure it is not the water pump?

Thanks for the reply Loren-Hmm, the first thing I did AFTER thinking it was a belt driven issue was simply to remove belt and run engine-Same LOUD screaching! from directly behind the main front engine pulley. Funny, but spraying "brake cleaner" behind pulley made sound disapate? a little anyway? Strange,, thinking of removal of pulley to make sure? Wish someone else had this loud noise issue:(

ANY results after engine removal? Hope it was repairable?

only when engine achieves operating temp. At first I thought it was a pulley, no such luck. I narrowed it to "behind the front crank belt drive pulley. It HOWLS when warm and low idle speeds. Obvious lack of lube or bearing failure, inside front section of block, possible intermediate bearing. ANYONE heard of this failure? thanks-Mark

Ok, here's how this ends ( I hope). Not ideal but a compromise...

They cannot match the $1100 price on the whole kit. So they told me to go ahead and buy it at that price, and bring it to them. They will install it for 1/2 the labor, and refund me the springs they installed, which should work out to almost a blank operation - I might owe them $20....

Sure, that means I'll have paid $1300 for installing that in the end, but that beats the current donkey cart I am riding !

REMEMBER THIS!!!

It been my experience that most Porsche owners consider "their" dealer as they would the "factory" NOTHING could be more from the truth. they are just MERE agents of Porsche and nothing more!

Besides the fact that most dealer principles got thier start in the "car" business selling junk used car in herculon suits on the side streets of their towns, WAXING those pencil thin mustaches. Many of them are just as much of a crook today as they were then. The only difference is that they steal bigger!

Shameful...on their part actually....AND it happens way too much in my business. The dealer "service writers" are aweful and shamelessly part of a big picture of deception. I have the problem ALL the time when I quote a price against a dealer. Bottom line is that they LIE and the do it everyday. Low ball on the in and HIGH ball on the way out. NEVER would I go ahead with such a job without a complete discussion as to what was being replaced. Some of their price stuctures are really off the wall!--ok I've vented. "Most" dealers are scum on service after warranty is up.

Sounds like you have a problem. As I understand it, there is a microswitch in the door handle that senses the door being opened and drops the window enough to open the door.

Thanks Vipe...I'm not sure yet as I've gone through all the posts on the subject. Interestingly, there have been several mentions of the "pinch movement "failure yet I've not succeeded in finding the answer. checked the reg. and it's tight and retaught the switch too?

checked for codes and found none yet when opening or closing the door on Pass. side the window does not have that little up and down movement. I also noticed the interior lite does not actuate on that side of car? locks work fine- thanks Mark

:thumbup:

This situation is perfect example of why I (in the business?) actually enjoy renntech more than ANY other site. Just as importantly, and a little "nice" strange is that THERE IS NEVER MUCH MALCONTENTS on here...as most of us are aware...other "sites" seem to harbor nasty people who always have a comment!

Loren and Co.-(you guys) are the best! Mark

GT3 is the perfect fit that looks best IMO

I agree, we have fitted and refitted various front covers on 996 for years and the GT3 fits the best and looks appropriate!-Mark www.formulamotorsports.com

if so we would be interested in opinions on the vendors and their unique reprogramming. thanks

What is involved in installing ipod, fully integrated to work with MOST. Car 997s 2006.

How much dismantling? My car does not have gps or cd changer. Any input would be appreciated.

All of the information available about integration of iPod and MOST can be found here

Sorry, tried that shortcut and did not get any info on ipod install?

99% sure you have a bad relay since my Boxster did the same thing. Look under the dash above the fuse box. The wiper relay is the tallest relay. It is blue. It does not interchange with the other relays.

If you remove the relay you can still use the wipers. They will turn on and off with the stalk, but the intermittent and park features will not work with the relay removed.

In the picture the one on the left is a 996 relay, and the one on the right is a non S Boxster.

Our helmet if off for "seniori tool pant":-) very fast guy!

you may be surprised where it's REALLY coming from.

My lack of heat problem had me finally pull the heater core and there was the surprise...

See my procedure here:

http://carboncow.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=16&Itemid=97

Loren you may want to reference this over on the 996 too if the systems are the same.

BRAVO!!!

This dissertation is seminal with respect to what specialty web sites such as Loren's is all about!-Mark

sounds really frustrating but really intriguing! PLEASE keep us informed as these types of faults are of great interest.

I had a car 01 turbo that would only achieve .4 bar boost and have had a devil of a time with it. :cursing:

Thanks for that Zippy-the car had several boost leaks but the problem remains unresolved-throttle jacking unit sounds interesting though. Basically all wiring has been checked and we now need to look at the DME to see if there is any corruption.

Loren, I have factory Litronics on my 2002 C4S.

But I don't think they are self-leveling...?

Aren't self-leveling lights supposed to self-check (flick up-down) a little when they are first turned on?

Mine doesn't do that, but my BMW 540i's self-leveling Xenons did that.

Are you sure it's not an option?

Interesting question about the way they auto test on activation-how about it loren-??

I just bought a certified '03 996 Tiptronic w/ 11,000 miles. Today I was cruising down the road at about 60 and heard a terrible noise from the transmission. I had the car towed to the dealership. Has anyone experienced this problem. Sounds really bad.

hard to help without further description of "noise". let us know what happens at dealer-warranty?

The idea of this forum "may" be the best thing to come along in a while.

All of us who use the tester and receive fault codes MUST become more comprehensive in evaluating what causes the code register in the first place. we all know that it is not always the sensor that the codes show which is the culprit. Core to using the tester is ability to wade through the surface data. THIS is what can make for interesting and informative discourse. Banding together on this topic would be (to me anyway) a superior way to integrate our tester knowlege. OK, anyone out there?

Yes, my car is a Coupe. Will have a looksy around #4 & #5. Thanks!

Invariably, it is the drains in the front cowl area of trunk. They become clogged very easily, even though they appear clean. Be careful to check the alarm control unit under your drivers seat, as it can get ruined by water incursion! Mark

Do Porsche change the factory setting depending on which wheel and tyre combo they ship the car with?

Generally no, because usually when you increase a wheel rim measurement, you use the 'Plus one concept' - without going into the mathematics of it, if a chassis was designed with 17" wheels, when the rims are increased to 18" you have a corresponding reduction in aspect ratio (profile) of the tyres, so the rolloing circumference remains roughly the same.

The "10%" factor in speedo "error" has been an "achilles heel" for Porsche cars for most of it's existance! I guess, we should all assume ALL 911's (in particular) have app. 10% less mileage than appears in front of them! :) Mark

When one of my clients tells me of achieving 153 MPH on the back straight of Watkins Glen, I assume it was 143 :)

I replaced my rotors about two months ago, and this weekend was the first time I was on the track with them After just two runs, I was experiencing terrible brake fade. I came home, threw my old rotors on, and the brakes were back to rock hard.

I ordered the rotors from a Porsche shop, and I assumed they were were genuine Porsche rotors, but looking at the receipt, it appears that they are not OEM rotors. Has anyone ever experienced this problem? I assume that as these rotors heat up, they're warping and causing the fade.

I guess my real question, since it appears that the rotors were the issue is, where is the cheapest place to get OEM rotors?

Just a thught, did you put the front right rotor on the right side and the left on left, non OEM rotors are sometimes not marked.. "Sunset Porsche/Audi" Oregon. for OEM rotors

Unless the steering wheel was shaking on hard braking, the rotors wouldn't be warped. brake fade will usually occur initially when using new brake pads/rotors at the track, especially after first or second session on them. just let them get to ambient temp and they are ok. Don't think that rotor is bad, no matter who manufacturers it.