JeTexas

There is no adjustment for the mixture. That is done automatically based on sensor data. One or more sensor could be reporting the wrong value.

Is it idling high? It could be a vacuum leak.

If it had a vacuum leak, I think it would be running lean, but the sooty exhaust would make me think it is running rich.

Do you get an codes for 02 sensors? Do you still have the cats on the exhaust?

Hi All, something strange happening on my MY99C2 Cab. This past week and very very intermitantly, my horn sounds when i come to a hard stop. Usually these stops are for avoiding something on the road. If i try to induce the sound by slamming on the brakes on a empty street to diagnose the problem...its ok. No work has been done to modify the brakes or horn. The only electrical work was for you basic stereo replacement with an additional amplifier in the trunk.

Thanks for the input

The horn button is basically two metal contacts suspended over each other. When you push down on it, it makes a connection and sounds the horn. I'm not sure if the Porsche horn is springloaded or just has rubber tabs holding the horn button up, but it sounds like your spring/rubber needs to be replaced. When you slam the brakes, the momentum of the car intermittently overcomes the tension of the spring, and the horn goes off. I don't think it has anything to do with your electrical wiring.

The cold start dying problem could be from dirty fuel injectors.

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Life is stressful enough with out that sort of thing.

I like to tinker, and I've been looking for a new project. Just wondering if anyone's ever built one of these 914 Voltsporsches and what kind of results you got.

Looks kind of like the poor man's Tesla. If I commuted in it, I would save about $100 in gas a week though.

http://www.electroauto.com/index.html

As I recall you don't need to program anything. If the radio station supports PTY then it displays - if it does not support PTY then it does not display.

From the radio owners manual: "The PTY is broadcast by the RBDS transmitter, provided that the transmitter is equipped with this function."

Isn't there some button you can press that will automatically search for stations with PTY and preset them for you?

Hello everyone, I must say I am going crazy trying to find a sollution to my problem. My 2002 996 has a Radio CDR 220 fitted and I have been unsuccesful in getting the radio to display the programme descriptions such as 'Cassic Rock' or 'Triple M' etc. I have called my Porsche dealer and made me feel like my model was pre-historic and no one had any idea or anyone old enough to know. Had to check for myself (hope the dealer doesnt catch on :huh: ) and test drove a vehicle of the same model same year same radio and of course that radio displayed the program. Can someone help me on the steps I need to follow to set this feature up. Thanks to all.

I believe the function is called RDS. I THINK that if you hold down the TP button to go into the setup menu, you can turn it on or off. However, I don't have the manual in front of me, and I won't be able to check until I get home tonight.

Well, remember that the front wheels are a different size than the back. There's a 50% chance that whatever you carry, it won't be the same size as what goes flat anyway.

I didn't know Porsche offered the service when I bought my car last year, so I used these guys http://www.autoexam.com/

I think it was $120, but the guy caught a leaking motor mount, a burned-out airbag warning light, no reverse lights and a slipping clutch among many other cosmetic things that he listed off. The dealership agreed to fix everything on the list and warranted the airbag issue for a year because the bulb had burned out stemming from those seatbelt sensor issues.

Now, despite all that and even though the mechanic that did the exam gave the engine and transmission clean bills of health, I still had the CEL light come on a day after I left the lot due to the EGR valve going out.

What can you do?

1988 911. Car runs great! starts easy first start of the day. If I stop for gas or a quick stop it will not re start if it is warm? I let it sit for ~20 minutes starts no problem. I can drive it all day with no problems but if I shut it down I have to give it some time.

Any experience with this?

Rob

My similar problem with an SC engine in a '76 911S was caused by a weak, tired, old 0.8hp Bosch starter. I solved it by cleaning all the battery and ground connections and replacing the starter with a rebuilt 1.5hp Bosch starter from eBay.

Mel

I had the same problem on two seperate cars that were both caused by old starters that would get heat soaked and quit cranking until the car cooled down.

so in fact if you pull off the side covers of the lower central unit and the carpet, it is much easier if you just take the whole unit out and work on it by unscrewing the 2X Torx screws on either side holding it in the frame

Did you get it running? You might be able to find a specialty electronics/computer repair shop that could fix the CD-Rom drive cheaper than replacing it.

M6 x 12

They are only $0.65 at your dealer - 900.269.047.09

Thanks Loren! I'll go by at lunch.

Just wanted to say thanks for this DIY. I did all my pads and the front rotors today. Only trouble I ran into was that one of the screws holding the rotor on was stripped out. I had to drill it out to get the rotor loose. I'm going to go check Ace Hardware for a replacement, but I'm assuming it's not too incredibly vital since the wheel bolts are all going through the rotor as well.

Still I suggest a stainless steel screw.

Does anyone know the screw size for the rotors on a 996 C2? I searched three hardware stores looking for a match yesterday and came up empty. It definitely falls into the category of "flathead machine screw," but the only thing close was a 1/4" screw, but the 1/4" seems just slightly thicker and has a slighty different thread pattern.

If anyone knows the size, I need to order a few.

Just wanted to say thanks for this DIY. I did all my pads and the front rotors today. Only trouble I ran into was that one of the screws holding the rotor on was stripped out. I had to drill it out to get the rotor loose. I'm going to go check Ace Hardware for a replacement, but I'm assuming it's not too incredibly vital since the wheel bolts are all going through the rotor as well.

Here's a thread with more info about the PCM1 and the CD-Rom units.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/lofiversion....php/t2530.html

I plan to remove my OEM Sat Navigation which is overheating and giving a disc reading error from my 2001 Turbo and replace it with a Garmin on the windscreen

Is taking it out and easy job ? unclip and unplug and I guess I can order a OEM Porsche part to go in its place as a holder for sunglasses etc ?? :rolleyes:

I don't know if it just slides out the way the Becker CD players do, but even if you have to remove the trim, it's not that complicated. Here's a link with photos for an install, you should probably be able to figure out your best extraction method from that.

http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Porsche/L...risPCM/PCM.html

The driver side power window in my 924 won't go up and im not sure why. I'm also not sure exactly how it works, theres a constant 12 volts going to both the terminals on the window motor and when i hit the switch it goes down to 0 volts. I would like to know what else i can do to diagnose this problem and also what cars i can steal the motor out of.

It sounds like the ground in the switch is bad or not connected. I'd test the switch, it it checks out, then you must have a short in the motor.

Is it normal to only be able to scroll through the menu by lifting the lever, and not by pressing it down toward the floor?

On my 996, it scrolls either way

Hi all,

Is there a need to change to CDR-220 internal settings when going between Bose or non amplified car? Any output setting since "line outs" are not used.

I sold my old CDR-220 to someone and they claim it sounds tinny but this radio was perfect in my car.

Thanks!

CDR-220s have a low power line out, so they're barely going to drive a speaker if they're not amped. All CDR-220 systems had an amp in the trunk.

Not true, my CDR-220 has no amp.

They are likely using the wrong pin outs.

My apologies. I was just basing this assumption on what I've seen. I should have done some research.

Your friend should wire up to socket B http://www.beckerautosound.com/pdf_guides/om43-4462.pdf

It says it outputs 18watts x 4, so it's probably going to sound tinny if he's using higher than 20watt speakers or if he has more than 4 speakers wired in as there's not enough power to drive them.

Hi all,

Is there a need to change to CDR-220 internal settings when going between Bose or non amplified car? Any output setting since "line outs" are not used.

I sold my old CDR-220 to someone and they claim it sounds tinny but this radio was perfect in my car.

Thanks!

CDR-220s have a low power line out, so they're barely going to drive a speaker if they're not amped. All CDR-220 systems had an amp in the trunk.

Hi:

I have an '01 996 C4 Cab with PCM. I played with the dark button last night (wish I hadn't) and at the time it functioned properly, but today the screen is black, as though dark stuck on. Does anybody have any suggestions (PCM reset?) Radio still works so I'm afraid if I disconnect battery or pull fuse I'll be faced with radio code on dead screen. Can PCM's be repaired, or is the thinking that Porsche dealer will just want to replace the head unit for $2G? Obviously then I'd go to Pioneer or Kenwood, but can't get sense on pre-02 cars whether the installation is relatively simple (no cutting wires, etc.). Thanks in advance, Fred

This is from a Cayenne manual, which makes it sound like pretty much any button you hit would turn it back on. The program could just be stuck though and needs to basically reboot to work correctly, which would entail disconnecting the battery. Guess you have to decide if it's worth the risk. I wouldn't want to spend $1k on a new system though if my screen was actually still good.

Aside from the torque/power increases, have you noticed any mpg increase?

I wonder what tests EVO did in determining the placement of the MAF on their intake. I'd hope some kind of science went into it, but I'd like to see what thought process/measurements/testing their developers used. I also wonder what would happen if you cut out the Porsche stock MAF receptacle and epoxied it into the EVO in place of the EVO receptacle.

Hi all, time to bring up wiring for a trailer again. (loren thanks again for the wiring diagram)

2003 cayenne S with dealer installed hitch and programming. I have a boat trailer with surge brakes and LED lights. I have the uhaul 7pin round toi 5 pin flat adapter already with the built in resistors for LED lights.

The problem - I have RT turn, LT turn, Running light, Reverse signal (to turn off the brakes while reversing), but NO BRAKE LIGHTS.

Fixes - Went to a hitch place - the pollak reciever had a missing / corroded pin on the back - replaced

- also, the contact for that missing pin was disolved on the cayenne harnes - replaced this connection as well

Still no brake light. Does anyone have any ideas?? (dealership is 4.5 hours away)

THanks

Do you have portable lights or something you could plug in to see if the fault is on the car side or the trailer side? Or just a multimeter to see if you're getting power on that pin from the Cayenne when you hit the brakes?

It's basically a filter for the hum.

To quote from http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/

Ground loop is a condition where an unintended connection to ground is made through an interfering electrical conductor. Generally ground loop connection exists when an electrical system is connected through more than one way to the electrical ground.

When two or more devices are connected to a common ground through different paths, a ground loop occurs. Currents flow through these multiple paths and develop voltages which can cause damage, noise or 50Hz/60Hz hum in audio or video equipment. To prevent ground loops, all signal grounds need to go to one common point and when two grounding points cannot be avoided, one side must isolate the signal and grounds from the other.

You can see one in juniinc's photo.

Here's an example.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search

Hi all, thank you for your prompt reply. I do take your points on board, but I just have a few question for some individual responses here.

JeTexas, may I ask what is a ground loop insulator, and what causes a ground loop. I've done a wiki search on it, but dont really get it. If I try this out and still get noise, maybe I will get one of these

juniinc, thanks for your response also. Your amp placement is exactly what I'm looking to do also. I think for me, my master brake cylinder is on the right hand side, so I think thats why the holes in the FW are flipped. But can you just confirm, that means, you still had to wire your power cables, and your RCA's/ speaker cables through the one trunk hole. I guess this is what i wanted to avoid.

Oh, and one last question juniinc, how did you mount your amp. It looks like its on an angle. Looks great, just keen to get some mounting tips on how i can secure it down.

Thanks again to all who reply.