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JeTexas

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Everything posted by JeTexas

  1. If I remember correctly one cable is basically R, 1, 3, 5 (all the up gears) while the other cable is 2, 4, 6 (all the down gears). If the cable brackets get loose, you'll lose the ability to shift into those gears. Get under the car and zip tie them up tight to make sure that's not the issue. If it doesn't help, it might be the synchros in your transmission.
  2. Unplug the MAF and see if the car will start. Mine behaved this way when the MAF died. The car will run in a pre-programmed fuel mode with it unplugged. Not sure if it's your problem, but it's a free test.
  3. If you can slide a little cloth tape behind it, it should dampen the vibrations. My cab has a couple little plastic pieces on the ceiling that pull off, and they were rattling like crazy. A little cloth tape on the back of them and all is quiet.
  4. Well, the second Napa water pump I have installed on my car died this morning on the way to work. The first one lasted less than six months. The second one has clocked in at just a few days shy of two years. I highly suggest NOT buying the rebuilt Napa pumps.
  5. Remove the tensioner belt from the water pump and spin it to see if it makes a grinding noise. If so, it's probably the pump going bad. If not, your hose may just be leaking. I replaced all the rubber hoses on my 99 Carrera a year or so because they were not looking so great, and I didn't want to wait for an eventual hose explosion. I also replaced all the original clamps with new screw-type clamps. If it is the water pump, it's a fairly straight-forward DIY that is well-documented on this forum. It took me about three hours when I did it.
  6. I don't think there's any way my window could be too high. I haven't done anything to the windows or doors in the four years I've owned the car and this problem just spontaneously developed.
  7. My car has suddenly developed this problem as well. The window attempts to lower when using both the interior and exterior handles, so I know it's not a microswitch. It just doesn't lower far enough. If I tap the top of the window once I open the door, it will fall the rest of the way down, so that it doesn't hit when I shut the door. I tried putting some silicone lubricant along the window seal to see if maybe it was just sticking, but that doesn't seem to have helped. When I shut the door, it raises like it should. Anyone come up with a solution for this?
  8. When I'm running about 80mph on the freeway in 6th gear it whines like crazy! That's when it's most pronounced. I think I'm going to have to take it to the dealership for an official diagnosis.
  9. Thanks. I was dreading the disassembly.
  10. Hmmm. All I can say for certain is it's a bearing somewhere. It's definitely a bearing whine. Guess I'll have to put it on blocks and find a helper, so I can see if I can track the noise. I did a transmission fluid change somewhere around 85k miles. I'm about to break 150k though, so I guess I'm probably about due again.
  11. I put a stereo jack in the back of my storage tray. There's plenty of room behind there. If you go that route, put the socket right in the vertical center of the back of the bin. I did mine too near the top to avoid cutting the rubber liner, and it's a pain to get the cord plugged in.
  12. The pitch varies a little with speed and it disappears when I clutch.
  13. I second the checking of the oil filler tube. I ended up having a huge vacuum leak in mine. However, my leak was so big that it had gone beyond squeaking and was causing a high idle. Small cracks can be patched with epoxy.
  14. Lately I've noticed a loud drone coming from my 1999 996 6-speed when cruising down the road. It sounds a whole lot like when the rear differential bearing went bad on my old Mustang, but I'm not quite sure if the 996 has the same kind of differential. I'm fairly certain it's not just wheel bearings because there's no change in tone as I steer the car from side to side. I was kind of ignoring the problem, but I had the car in for an AOS replacement and the shop mentioned I have a "noisy transmission." Is the differential in the transmission? I have shop manuals, and I'll order the parts to swap the bearings out, but I'm just not really sure what I need to be replacing. Thanks for any help.
  15. I got my replacement latch cover from Sunset. Porsche convertible top latch repair by ffacker, on Flickr Here you can see the original broken latch cover, which I didn't even realize was there until reading this thread. Porsche convertible top latch repair by ffacker, on Flickr I was hoping it would just snap on somehow and be an easy replacement, but it seems I'm going to have to do quite a bit of disassembly of the latch mechanism. Porsche convertible top latch repair by ffacker, on Flickr My biggest question is, the bar that runs through the hole in the latch (and the latch cover) has flared ends. How does it work?
  16. Did the 1999 Cabs have this plastic cover on the hook as well? A little piece broke off the front of my hook a couple months ago, and it no longer triggers the microswitch in the windshield either. I have to push on the back of the latch with my finger as I close the top. That would be wonderful if it was just a piece of a cover that sheared off as I was not looking forward to replacing the entire latching mechanism.
  17. My car doesn't really use any oil that I can tell. The reading at cold is good. It's just the reading after filling up that's wacky. I only noticed because the car automatically keeps that gauge on the oil level indicator after I fill up for about a minute or so after I turn the car on before it switches back over to regular duty.
  18. I agree with the comment regarding the AOS. Mine finally went at 145,000 miles at a very inopportune time. I also agree that the water pump is probably due because mine failed at 107,000 miles, but it's easily accessible from the rear of the car. Having the transmission out wouldn't make a difference.
  19. On my 99 Carrera, the dash displays the oil level when I start the car after getting gas. For the past few years, it may have shown the oil level to be as low as halfway down on the scale, but never in any danger zone. Recently, it's started showing the oil level lower and lower and now shows it on the lowest bar and is flashing. I always took the post-gas reading with a grain of salt since I had been told when I bought the car that the digital readout was only accurate after the car had been off and sitting for at least 15 minutes. I never sit that long when pumping gas. I checked the oil level with the dipstick and it seems fine. The change occured after my AOS was replaced last fall. Would the new AOS be holding oil or is my sensor just going wacky? Having verified multiple times that there is oil on the dipstick, I think everything is ok, but when I see flashing lights I always get worried.
  20. The top has a pre-programmed series of events that occur only after each microswitch in the series is activated. For instance, if the top starts to retract, but the sideflaps don't open and trigger their corresponding microswitches, the top will just stop. The computer then attempts to repeat the step that should be taking place until it times out, which I think happens at 30 seconds. The calibration of the clamshell might be off, the screw drive of the side flaps might need to be greased, and the top latch may not be triggering the microswitch in the windshield. I recently had a small sliver of plastic flake off the front of my latch that hooks into the windshield frame, and now unless I press on the latch as it's closing, it won't trigger the windshield microswitch, which just causes the latch to open and close over and over. My guess would be that your side flaps need grease on the screw drive because they're not opening/closing all the way.
  21. Loren, is there any way to re-activate an old key if the number on it is no longer readable? When I bought the car three years ago, it had two keys. Both unlocked and started the car, but only one had the keyless entry electronics inside of it and it didn't work. I took it back to the place I bought the car about a month later asking them to fix the keyless entry and only took the key with electronic guts. They said they were unable to relflash it and ended up charging me about $240 to stick the blade on a new keyhead. I didn't realize until recently that my spare key no longer starts the car. Is there a way to reactivate it with my PST-2 or am I stuck buying a new keyhead? Whether I can reactivate the old key or have to buy a new keyhead, how do I make sure neither key gets erased from the system when I program them? Does the PST-2 have very clear directions or do I need to read up on this first? Thanks.
  22. Try cleaning your throttle body and your MAF. I don't think it's the tire size. That doesn't affect idle when you're stopped or at speeds under 10 mph.
  23. My vote is that the fans aren't kicking on. The temp drop you see when moving is from movement of air caused by movement of the car.
  24. I can't speak for Alumaloy, but I repaired the aluminum heat exchanger on a boat with Marine JB Weld, which is supposedly good to 600 f. It's lasted about 9 months so far with no issues. However, the repair is sitting in coolant, so I doubt it gets THAT hot. Is there not a shop that could re-weld the spots for you? That would be my first choice.
  25. That's really good advice, Brian. I chickened out on the conversion. While they were offering Porsche polyurethane bumpers, I was going to end up with a fiberglass hood and fenders. Should I get in another wreck, I'd be depending on that one company to still be in business to be able to replace the fenders. That was kind of scary. Then, my shop was having a hard time committing to an install price without seeing the fiberglass parts to determine how many hours of work they'd need to take out any waves, seams, etc. However, if I bought the parts, I was committed to the project whether they said it was going to be do-able within insurance costs or whether it was going to be another $5k out of my pocket. Catch 22, I guess.
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