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JeTexas

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Posts posted by JeTexas

  1. Approximately 2/3 of the time that I close the driver’s side door with the window up, it waits about 8 seconds and then rolls down the window just short of half way. It will do this even if I lock the door in that 8 second period.

    This sounds like the "ghost window" problem that was experienced on 99 models. There's a TSB for it, and it's discussed quite a bit all over the Internet. However, I don't know why your 2002 would have this problem unless it was serviced and somebody used an NOS window motor from 99 to repair it.

    If the motor has part number 996 624 101 02, then that's probably your problem. However, if it's the newer 996 624 101 04, it's probably something else.

  2. Hi guys!

    After a long drive home last night (not spirited!) my temp reading was the usual between the 8 and the 0 in 180 (maybe touching the left part of the 0.... so not hot at all... anyway, I finally get home, shut the car off and after 10-15 minutes I go outside and the engine compartment fan is at full blow. I put the key in the ignition and remove it and the fan stops.... is that normal? This is the second time it does that in 2 weeks.....:confused:

    Thanks!

    joel

    it's a 2002 carrera 2 in the US

    I read a previous post where Loren detailed how the engine compartment fan works. Apparently the car takes temp readings every few minutes after you shut it off, and it it stays above a certain temp, the fan will kick on for 20 or 30 seconds (I can't remember which he said) at a time ever few minutes until the engine compartment is below the designated temp.

  3. I was shopping around for brake pads today. The Advance Auto Parts, Parts America, by my house carried Wearever pads as the house brand and they actually have a set available for 996. It's $57.48 for the front Wearever Silver MKD776 and $44.44 for the rear Wearever Silver MKD738.

    The description says that they're semi-mettalic OE replacement pads, and they have a limited lifetime warranty, which means if you keep the receipt they're good for one free swap when you wear them out.

    Has anyone tried these? The fact that both front and rear is cheaper than most front sets I've seen is giving me pause, but I've always used house brand pads on my other vehicles with no problems.

    Anyone have other suggestions?

    They arrived today. Looks like their front brake pads are just taller versions of the rear brake pads. They definitely don't fit. Got to take them back tomorrow. Guess I'll go the ebay mintex route.

    (I should also note that although both sets show the brand as Wearever Silver, the rears came in a large Wearever Gold box instead. )

    post-30731-1214877981_thumb.jpg

  4. I've got a 99 C2 Cab, and I'm looking for a way to carry my bicycle other than with the top down and the bike upside down in the back seat hanging over the side of the car.

    Due to the spoiler, trunk racks are out of the question. As far as I know, there's no hitch options for the 996, so a hitch rack is no good either. I have the hard top. My question is, can you mount the RTS to the cab's hardtop the same way you would mount it to a coupe? My bike is very light, so I don't think weight would be an issue, but I'm worried about the added wind resistance pulling on the latch.

    I've been searching for used racks due to the ridiculous price of buying them straight from Porsche, but I've only found coupe racks, not the cab racks. If I can mount the coupe racks to my cab hard top with no problems, I might as well do that and save some money, but I don't want to just be cheap and tear up my car.

    Any advice?

    Anyone know of other bike rack options?

  5. Regardless of the mileage, you have to take the age into account. Remember, Porsche is attempting to be on the cutting edge of technologies, so they're going to have systems more advanced than many other car companies out there. However, because it's new technologies, there's going to be bugs in it. By the time this stuff works it's way down to being affordable and put into Fords and Chevys, etc. it's much more refined.

    When I read about things like the air-oil seperator problems and your alarm problems, I'm really missing the simplicity of my 66 Mustang. Then again, my 66 always had a leak somewhere, didn't handle worth crap, overheated in heavy traffic and only got 14mpg on premium gas.

    When I first got my 99, I expected very little maintenance, but the local Firestone had me for $2k pretty fast. Knowing what I've now learned from this board, I would have changed my own oil and saved the cost of a stripped out oil plug and pain replacement and saved $500, epoxied the crack in my oil filler tube for $3 and saved $500, and changed my own Mass Airflow Sensor for $350 and saved another $500. Aside from massive engine or transmission failure, nothing seems to be that difficult or expensive. I just wasn't expecting it and hadn't done any research and learned my lesson when the local shop took advantage of me.

    On the other side of things, I bought a lifetime alignment package from that Firestone, so I'm now going to make it a point to have my alignment checked AT LEAST every other weekend if I have time just to take up their time and annoy them.

  6. Yes sir.. Fuses: C-3 is good as well as B-6 and B-8.. all good. It has been a slow death. The history: 1st the key fob battery went bad, replaced battery after a week or so.. but would not work, lights up on the fob but nothing from the car. Then the passenger door lock would not function, then both. Now the triple on off with the key in the door does not work. Next the interior lights went along with the window switches not working. The top activates the windows and the windows drop to open the door.. now I have a double horn warning that the alarm has a malfunction with a manual key in the door lock. Everything under the seat was dry and pristine.

    I purchased (stupidly for 900.00 the correct PSM1 and navigation unit with supposedly wiring harnesses). I removed the radio, and hooked up the PSM1 but it was dead. (figures.. ebay theifs) I removed this unit, reinserted the original radio, got a code from Loren and everythng worked, including the window switches. Saturday they stopped. Today I pulled the seat and alarm box.. everything looked good. I am at a loss of where to go from here other than the dealer.

    So everything came back to life for a while when you changed the radio back out? That seems strange. Could you have a wiring short that got rustled around when you were moving the radio wires, and now it's shorted out again?

    Have you tried disconnecting the battery to see if anything would reset?

    I wish I knew more, but I haven't faced a problem like this yet.

  7. I recently decided to buy a 911 cab, 2001 51,000 miles. Thus far this car is a night mare. I have replaced the water pump, wheel alignment, pulley tensioner, belt, the front end is squeaking, key fob stopped working and now the windows, alarm, inside lights have all died. I have read about a fuse in the alarm box going bad under the front seat but it was fine, no moisture no corrosion nothing. . Therefore I am beginning to believe the box is faulty. Part # 996 618 262 03. I also have read my key will no longer work so I guess this is going to be another 1000.00 fix. I have owed 4, 911s through the years and this generation is a piece of junk on wheels. I have also read about the 99 to 2001 engine premature failures. I am waiting with baited breath. ..

    I think a lot of the failures stem from the cars sitting too long without being driven. Seals dry out, which causes leaks or bearings to dry out and freeze up, etc.

    Have you checked your other fuses aside from the one in the alarm box?

  8. Thanks so much for this info.

    I ordered one from eBay and did mine this evening. Worked like a charm - no trimming necessary anymore.

    The only thing that confused me was that in the supplied instructions it referenced an orange lens, but my unit had a white lens, so I spent 3 or 4 minutes searching the table for the orange lens, which I'd apparently overlooked upon disassembly. (Yes, I'm that bright.) Once I figured out that the orange lens being referenced was actually the white lens sitting in front of me, it all went back together with no problems.

    It's so nice to see the temp numbers again.

    • Upvote 1
  9. I finally got around to replacing these hoses today as parts of my preventative maintenance on my 99 C2 6 speed.

    996-106-250-55

    A 996-106-212-52

    996-106-233-51

    A 996-106-222-57

    One runs from the overflow tank down to the bottom rear driver's side of the motor. Apparently this one tends to go out often as it runs right by the headers, and the heat takes it's toll. It had been replaced before on my car. The other three seemed to be original and had the original spring-loaded hose clamps. The two that run to the front of the car were bonded to the little plastic retainer brackets. I guess that will happen after almost 10 years and 94,000 miles. I was able to get the rear two hoses off by sliding a flathead up inside the rim, but I had to cut those front hoses off. They just weren't going to budge.

    I had a slight bit of trouble getting the short, bent hose on the passenger rear to seal where it goes into the motor. I kept getting a little drip on the motor side. There's not much space between the flare on the metal spout and the back-end of the spout, so it turned out the hose clamp I had put on there was too fat and not seating behind the flare. I dug around in the toolbox and found a skinnier clamp that just barely fit. As you can see in the pictures, there's no extra hose sticking out on that fixture.

    I did it all with the rear wheels up on ramps. I refilled it in this position with the vent valve open and left it over night. In the morning I had to add more coolant. No trouble with air in the lines. In fact, just by changing out that 2 gallons or so of coolant that drained when I pulled those hoses, the car is now running about 5 degrees cooler. That's making me think I should go ahead and flush the entire system soon.

    post-30731-1214794451_thumb.jpg

    post-30731-1214794470_thumb.jpg

  10. Recently I was blessed with the ability to purchase a 2002 C2 Cab TIP with 18K miles. The original private owner gave me 2, two button remote keys and 1 valet key. He advised me that one of the remotes did not unlock the car or the trunk automatically but the key does work manually. The battery is fresh and I did the reset. The remote still does not work and produces a single red illuminated light on the remote when pressed where as the other functioning remote produces two rapid red lights when pressed. I would welcome any advice. Thanks!

    I had a key go bad on my 99 C2. The red light was flashing, but it wouldn't lock/unlock the car. I tried to have it reprogrammed, but they told me that the board was corrupted, so it wouldn't take the programming. I don't know if it has flash memory or what exactly. Anyway, I had to order a new key head and have it programmed. I think it was like $125 for the key, and $75 for the programming.

  11. Not a dumb question at all, your right it is a bit of a glorified crankcase vent however it does also keep the bubbled oil from entering the intake.

    What would happen to performance/drivability if you just disconnected it and plugged off the intake?

  12. I'm new to p-cars, so bear with me on this question. What does the AOS (which I believe means Air Oil Seperator) do exactly? It is just a crankcase vent that puts warm air back into the intake for emissions purposes or does it serve some complex purpose?

    Sorry if it's a dumb question, but the AOS is new to me, and I like to understand how things work, and why they're on the car.

  13. I saw a tiny spot of oil under the passenger side of the car.

    Visually I see where the oil drips. What's this and can someone guess what's causing the leak?

    I will take it to the shop soon.

    My best guess is that you're oozing from this gasket, and it's running down and pooling on the bottom there. I'm embarrassed to admit, I don't know what that piece is. I bought a Car Expert 996 manual on CD-Rom from www.autorepairinfo.org because I can't seem to find any printed 996 manuals, but the stupid thing doesn't even have a motor diagram.

    Lots of older vehicles ooze like that from their head cover gaskets. Keep an eye on your oil level. You're probably ok if it's not making a pool on the driveway.

    post-30731-1214575657_thumb.jpg

  14. can you give more detail or explain how you open it up? once you pry open the head of it, were you able to close it again? (if so, then I can transparent the ic chip to the new remote)

    Thanks!

    It's a one-button key for a 1999 996. I just stuck my thumbnail in the crack and gently pried it open. The board is just held in with two clips.

    Just be careful not to lose the rubber ring.

    Sorry for the blurry picture. The camera on the iPhone is about the most worthless thing ever, and my real cameras are in the car.

    post-30731-1214443173_thumb.jpg

  15. Trade-in values are always low. They have to be some the dealer can make a profit. Depending on your mileage I would think your car is worth at least 5-8k more.

    There's TONS of Boxsters advertised in Houston for around $13k give or take. It's a rough car market right now. When I was selling my 2004 SUV last year, I watched Blue Book fall almost $1k a month as gas prices skyrocketed. That was really depressing.

  16. I did a little search on the forum but still can't find a right answer.

    My key fob is in pretty bad shape, I would like to replce it with a new one. After seaching the forum I know its key blade can be taken off and put it on the new remote.

    Since my key fob works ok, but the plastic cover is in bad shape, I was thinking to purchase a new remote key fob off from ebay. Now the question is, is there a way to open up the outside cover of the key fob? (I would like to transparent the remote chip, battery, key blade over to the new remote fob)

    is it a way to go? or I still need a dealer to reprogrammed the new remote?

    On my key I can pry open the head of it, and take out the little disc with the guts, but I have never tried to take the blade off of it.

  17. I had a similar problem where I keep getting an error everytime I inserted a CD. I bought a refurbished unit form Becker for about $220 and bought an interface cable for my Ipod for another $15 from them. Everyting has worked fine for over a year now. I like the sound quality of the CD's over the Ipod is why I got the refurbished unit.

    Dave T

    Yeah, it's really a shame that Becker couldn't coax the same performance and sound quality out of the radio that they do from the CD player. On my unit CDs play the equivalent of a full 10 digits higher on the volume scale than the radio. I've got to be conscientious to turn in down when I put in an album.

    My FM modulator is even worse than the radio, but I ordered the BNA-1319 kit with the phone cable, aux cable and removal tools today. When it gets here I'll hack together an interface for the iPhone and post the results.

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