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insite

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

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About insite

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 05/05/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Atlanta
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '99 Boxster
  • Former cars
    '93 RX-7
  1. i have a 986 3.4L conversion. i have heard people are using the 987S exhaust manifolds with this setup. can JUST the exhaust manifolds be swapped, or would i also need to swap the rest of the components? thx! kev
  2. there are some posted here: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/645573-help-sudden-shifter-issue-03-base-5spd-w-b-and-m-ss-2.html#post8748573 on my car, the one in the top photo backed out. BTW, the photos show aftermarket bolts. the OEM are black torx bolts.
  3. update - part #4 in the diagram above had backed itself out of the case half an inch. i snugged it up & the problem is solved.
  4. they are accessible OUTSIDE the trans case; they are large torx fastners that go through the case. one is just aft of the slave cyl. the other is on the opposite side of the trans just below the reverse lockout mechanism. thx!
  5. i MAY have found the issue; need to check when i get home. anyone have spare trans parts? looking for the stop bolts (#4 & #8 below)
  6. that's all been done. as i stated, the issue is independent of the cables. it exists when MANUALLY actuating the shift rod (cables removed from transmission).
  7. last time out at the track, the 3rd to 2nd downshift got very difficult. occasionally, 2nd would feel like it was locked out. i called it a day & figured the plastic cable ends were bad or the linkage at the transmission came out of the clamps. replaced the entire shifter w/ 997 assembly, including new cable ends. the transmission side of the linkage is fine & properly lined up. shifter itself was aligned using the porsche alignment tool. still feels weird. when a shifter in a car centers itself, it tends to do so in the 3rd-4th gear channel. pushing the shifter foward or backward will snatch 3rd or 4th with NO lateral movement required. in my case, it's closer to the 5th-Reverse channel (5 spd). i removed the shift linkage at the transmission and manually actuated the shift rod. sure enough, when i rotate it CCW toward the 1st-2nd channel, it twists FAR. when i rotate it CW toward the 5th-R channel, it just twists a tiny bit. the shift rod itself is not returning to its centered position; it's clocked CW a few degrees. i know jack about the detailed workings of the transmission innards. my mind is thinking a spring w/ detent or something to that extent. anyone have any bright ideas? no other symptoms whatsoever. if i recalibrate my brain to the modified H pattern, the car is 100% normal. thx in advance. kev
  8. any drivability issues? why did you bother checking the deviation? it's possible your timing is off. this happens when chains stretch, tensioners wear, or in some cases, they're set poorly from the factory. how many miles on the car? have you physically verified the timing?
  9. excellent; thanks. i'm actually pretty close on timing, but it's off enough IMO to affect the way the car runs. i actually think it was a little off to begin with. i put match marks on the head at TDC before i pulled the IMS bearing & oil pump. the cams were NOT perfectly vertical prior to having started my work...... BTW, the reason they say not to rotate the motor backward is that the chains lose tension & bad things can happen. if you only go a couple of degrees, this no big deal, but if you go far, you can jump a tooth on a chain pretty easily. looking at the factory manual made this really start to seem much easier than most people make it out to be. i've done lots of other cars, and they're all pretty straight forward. didn't see why it would really be any different here..... with variocam plus, i'm sure it's a little more involved, but probably not rocket science. thanks again.
  10. ok, i goofed. i ran into a bit of trouble, and after an IMS bearing retrofit & chromoly oil pump drive installation, my cam timing appears to be a bit off. i need to re-time the cams (1999 3.4L) and i don't have the tools. i may have jumped a tooth during R&R of my IMS bearing & installation of a new oil pump drive. here is my plan; if this will not work, i'd love to know why! 1. lock motor to TDC (notch on end of bank 1-3 faces outward) 2. remove bank 1 oil scavenge pump 3. loosen sprocket bolts 4. rotate exhaust cam so notches are parallel to edge of head 5. tighten sprocket bolts 6. re-install scavenge pump 7. rotate engine 360 and lock crank (notch on bank 2 faces inward) 8. remove scavenge pump & loosen bolts 9. index exhaust cam to head just like bank 1 10. button everything back up. the special tool (9612) doesn't look like it does anything but rotate the exhaust cam so the notches are parallel to the head. am i wrong? finally, if i do wind up buying the tools, will the Sir Tools P253 SET the timing, or just lock it? i ask because it doesn't have a sword bolt like the porsche 9612. thanks for the help.
  11. anyone have a set they'd be willing to rent me? i goofed on my IMS / Oil pump drive service & need to set the timing.
  12. Hi,

    In 2007, you replied to a post about Boxster S brake calipers, saying that you knew where to get inner seals.

    I have a 2001 Boxster X with a RF caliper piston binding, and need to rebuild the caliper. I can't find the seals (aside from the dust boots).

    Looks like the pistons are two different sizes in the front calipers.

    Do you have a line on...

  13. you are exactly right. the bodies are identical. the rods are shorter to prevent the shorter springs from coming unseated during full droop. the shorter rods keep some compression on the shorter springs when the suspension is fully extended.
  14. i don't even want to think of what that would look like if i had done it; you're like a dremel ninja.
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