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insite

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Everything posted by insite

  1. does anyone know the difference between the '97 / '98 (CWA) and '99 (DVY) 5-speed transmissions? i have some options as to the donor trans that i'm installing. i know that both the CWA and DVY are G86/00 with the same gear ratios, but i don't know what is actually different between the two. thanks.
  2. That seems like a good price. How quick and you drop a trans and swap it w/o having to redo all your custom items? Do you have a pit or lift or the fun of doing it with ramps in the garage? Always curious about DIY work. I'm waiting for the day I will have to learn how to do a clutch/flywheel on my own. Never had to replace one EVER in a car I've owned! it's actually fairly easy on the boxster. i don't use a lift, just jack stands. it will take me about 1.5h to get it out and another 2h to get it back in and running. i'll pull it this evening so i can trade in my core when i pick up the replacement. none of my custom stuff is affected by the job. since the clutch, FW, axles, etc are all new, it's just a simple R&R. it should go really quickly since i had to do the job twice when i did my clutch. spec originally sent the wrong clutch disk & i had to pull the tranny a second time.
  3. Sorry man. Driving season is here and your track car is still down. I know that hurts. Do get a second opinion on that tranny. A knocking noise is unusual and there are few things more frustrating than changing expensive parts that don't fix the problem. Did you miss anything with the clutch/flywheel upgrade? If I remember right you used some custom made components. Possible mismatch somewhere? Good luck. yeah, it sucks to be down during track season. trying to get everything buttoned up for may 1st; we have the track reserved that day. as for the knocking, the tranny guys i've spoken with today say that the knock is a common symptom of a dying diff.
  4. i kind of suspected it was the tranny to begin with, but was in a bit of denial since i'd just spent beaucoup bucks on a custom clutch, flywheel, exhaust, etc. two of the three CV joints i replaced had excessive play anyhow & i'm okay with having replaced them. my symptoms occured whether i was going straight or turning. direction of the turn did not matter. this made me think it might be the trans. i, however, know very little about transmissions & was hesitant to diagnose it as the problem without an opinion from a tranny guy. initial diagnosis seems to be that the diff & possibly the pinion gear are shot. i was steered away from just replacing the diff w/ aftermarket toward a replacement tranny. i found one from german auto dismantlers about 1.5h from me for $1,500, so i'll go pick that up tomorrow. ugh.
  5. the CV's were inspected. i started with IR temp readings at each joint along w/ checking the play in each one. i started with the first most likely suspect & proceeded in order to the least likely. it was difficult to tell where the sound was coming from; not an obvious thing. i suspected my transmission, but my automotive knowledge really ends there. of course something could have gone wrong when i had the trans out to replace the clutch. i did change the fluid at that point for Redline. fluid level was checked per OEM shop manual procedure. just as likely though that it is just worn out; i race the car & it has 130k miles on it.
  6. well, after replacing three of four CV joints, i took my car by precision porsche & they are telling me that the knocking noise is my transmission. this thing is KILLING me this year. anybody got a used 5-speed w/ a 2.5L gear set? ugh. this will be the third time i've had the transmission out and the fifth time i've had the axles out in the last eight weeks.
  7. that's the way it's supposed to work. the DME actuates the relay at startup since this is when heating needs to occur. after the car is warm, there is no need to heat the sensors as this occurs from the exhaust stream; the heaters are disabled at this point, so DME output should be 0V.
  8. it's getting voltage and the impedance of the sensor heaters is fine. what i haven't done is to check the voltage at the relay or DME.
  9. There is just one relay (in the trunk behind the panel on the driver's side) and it also controls the fuel injectors and something else. If it were the relay, I would think the injectors wouldn't work either. There are also 4 separate circuits for each O2 sensor. In any case, at one point I swapped the relay with another identical one in the panel to make sure that wasn't it. thanks; my book identified the #2 relay in the trunk as EFI / primary O2 sensors but didn't spec the secondary O2 sensors. the thing's only like $13; i'll just replace it and see what happens.
  10. does anyone know if all four O2 sensors have heating actuated by the same relay, or is it two different relays?
  11. yeah, i guess i probably should have busted out the manuals first.....just figured someone had run into this & had the quick fix. i do have the factory shop manuals and OBD II supplements I - III. oddly, the diagnostic procedure for O2 sensors after the cats with insufficient heating codes are not in the books. there ARE, however, instructions for the sensors in FRONT of the cats. maybe there's another OBD II supplement that i don't have. anyway, i found out something interesting: the o2 sensor heating circuits are wired in parallel through a relay controlled by the ECU. the ECU actuates the relay, which in turn activates the heating cicrcuits. since both of the sensors have insufficient heating even though they are wired in parallel, this leads me to suspect the relay itself. it does not, however, give the location of this relay. does anyone know where it is?
  12. well, as luck would have it, murphy hath struck again. replaced the inner passenger side CV joint and the noise still occurs. i've since had a chance to ride in the passenger seat with someone driving. from the driver's seat, the sound is on the right. from the passenger's seat, it's on the left. going to replace the other inner CV joint & hope that cures it. if it doesn't, i'm concerned that the only other driveline component that sits between the driver & passenger is the transmission..... question: when trying to ascertain which CV joint was bad, does anyone have a good method? i THOUGHT i'd be able to use an IR Pyrometer to take the temperature of each joint & replace the one that was really hot. oddly, none of them are really hot. after a long drive, they're all about 140F. I'm a newbie here but just thought to ask if you have checked your tyre pressure? I know it sounds dumb but there has been some discussion in the 996 forum ref transmission noise; http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...nsmission+noise Just thought to add that in-case you hadn't thought about that one?? tire pressure is good; thanks for the idea.
  13. it's really not tricky at all. if you can find one, get a LONG 8mm hex socket for the CV joint flange. the boot gets in the way of a regular socket and makes it a little tough to R&R the bolts. other than that, this is a pretty easy job.
  14. you can get the CV boot kits off ebay for under $20 each. replacing the boots is fairly straight forward. do both on the axle since you'll have it out of the car. here's a quick instruction set: 1. with the car on the ground, remove a wheel center cap 2. parking brake on, insert a 32mm socket with a short extension into the wheel center (axle nut) 3. remove the axle nut using a breaker bar on the 32mm socket (i jump up and down on mine) 4. jack up the car at all four corners. jack the rear up pretty high. 5. remove the diagonal braces from under the car (15mm nut x 3, 15mm bolt x 2) 6. remove the shear plate (15mm nut x 2, 15mm bolt x 2) 7. loosen the nuts (13mm) on the exhaust sleeve just aft of the catalytic converter on the side of the axle to be replaced 8. spray some PB blaster on the exhaust sleeve 9. remove the nuts (13mm x 3) on the flange between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter 10. slide the exhaust sleeve onto the catalytic converter to separate it from the muffler 11. remove the bolts (8mm hex x 6) from the drive shaft flange (have a partner operate the brake pedal to keep the shaft from turning) 12. slide the axle off the flange 13. use a brass bar and hammer to pound the axle from the wheel carrier 14. mount the axle in a vice 15. tap the metal cover off the inner CV joint 16. wipe out the grease 17. remove the snap ring 18. cut off the CV boot clamps 19. slide the inner CV boot back onto the axle 20. use a drift pin to tap the CV joint off of the axle 21. slide the CV boots off the axle 22. wipe out excess grease w/ clean cloth 23. slide the new outer CV boot onto the axle 24. pack the outer joint w/ grease 25. seat the outer boot & clamp it on with the supplied clamps (need special CV boot pliers) 26. slide the inner CV boot & clamp onto the axle 27. tap the inner CV joint onto the shaft (it only goes on one way) 28. replace the snap ring 29. pack the boot side of the inner CV joint w/ grease 30. seat & clamp the inner boot 31. pack the outside of the inner CV joint w/ grease 32. replace the metal cover 33. thoroughly clean the six hex bolts 34. insert the clean hex bolts and their little spacers through the inner CV joint 35. add loc-tite (strong / red) to each of the six bolts 36. insert splined shaft into hub 37. mate inner CV joint to flange at transmission 38. install the six hex bolts hand tight 39. use a partner operating the brake pedal; torque the flange bolts to 30 ft-lb 40. install the cat / exhaust section with a new flange gasket 41. install the shear plate 42. install the diagonal braces 43. lower the car w/ e-brake on 44. add loc-tite to axle nut 45. tighten axle nut to 400 ft-lb (i jump up and down on a breaker bar here) 46. replace wheel center cap 47. drive if you've never done this and are reasonably handy, plan on four hours. if you are more or less a mechanic, plan on 1.5 - 2.0 hrs.
  15. ****. replaced the last two O2 sensors and still throwing 1117 / 1121. will have to trick the computer into behaving.
  16. best price on the D2's here: http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/D2-P12
  17. PSS9's are only good with springs of up to around 500lb/in. if you're building a dedicated ITS car, you may want stiffer springs. if this is the case, you'll need to move to different dampers. the K-Sports and D2's are both essentially JIC/Cross. they are available in any metric spring rate, which is nice. i don't know of anyone who's put these on a shock dyno to figure out how much they vary from unit to unit or how closely their adjustable settings are matched to one another. i THINK the D2's are adjustable for rebound and compression, while the K-SPorts are compression only. i tried to confirm this with D2, but never received a reply. if it were me & i wanted to be competitive, i'd buy a set of PSS9's (maybe find some that are used and shot out) and have them re-valved to work with stiffer springs. i'd then order some eibach constant rate springs (the PSS9's are progressive rate) and add camber plates. it's a lot more expensive route than the D2's or K-Sports, but probably will work out better in the long run. alternatively, you can try the D2's or K-Sports & sell them if you hate them. a lot of people over at 986forum.com have tried them out (on the street mainly) with positive feedback.
  18. well, as luck would have it, murphy hath struck again. replaced the inner passenger side CV joint and the noise still occurs. i've since had a chance to ride in the passenger seat with someone driving. from the driver's seat, the sound is on the right. from the passenger's seat, it's on the left. going to replace the other inner CV joint & hope that cures it. if it doesn't, i'm concerned that the only other driveline component that sits between the driver & passenger is the transmission..... question: when trying to ascertain which CV joint was bad, does anyone have a good method? i THOUGHT i'd be able to use an IR Pyrometer to take the temperature of each joint & replace the one that was really hot. oddly, none of them are really hot. after a long drive, they're all about 140F.
  19. I have 12's on the back and 8's in the front. From what I understand, over 20 puts undue strain on the bearings. An “S” has 5's all around (I think). As far as I know and for what its worth the widest Porsche ever used recently were 20's on a 944s. my wheels are 10" ET65mm. i run 21mm spacers & have run tires up to 285 wide with no problems. i've heard of wheel bearing concern but have personally never had a rear wheel bearing fail in 130k miles of driving (much of it on a race track). my front tires are 7.5" with no spacers and they fail all the time (probably more to do w/ heat from the brakes on track than anything else).
  20. ha! that looks great! i'll post a picture of what i used later; so far no leaks!
  21. the new sensors are good & the connectors are clean. since i replaced only the sensors after the cats, i think there's a good chance that the sensors before the cats (130k miles on them) are nowhere near as reactive & the DME is getting confused. all the porsche techs are telling me that all sorts of wierd codes can trip if you don't replace all 4 sensors at roughly the same time. they seem to think the codes will clear once in replace the primary sensors. they're on the way from pelican now. for those in the market, they have the best rate by FAR on the OEM socketed bosch sensors for the 2.5L cars: $96 each.
  22. thanks; i looked at the plug and it is a foolproof design. it's not physically possible on my car to plug the OEM style sensor in backward. additionally, i believe it would throw an P0140 code in addition to the P1117 if it were somehow installed backward.
  23. you'll probably have a different host of problems. where did you get your cats, BTW? thinking more about my issue with the O2 sensor heating, i'm guessing that the ECU just monitors voltage on the heating element circuits and calculates impedance that correlates to the correct heating wattage. since the old sensors didn't throw these codes, i can only assume that bosch has either changed the heating element design OR their quality control sucks. either way, adding resistors in series to increase impedance or in parallel to decrease it should solve the problem.
  24. wow; what pieces of crap. you figure when you use the more expensive german part, it should work better than the generic cheap part. apparently not. i guess i'll just have to figure out what resistor i need to run in parallel with the sensor to clear the code. once i figure this out, i'll post back here. Hey Insite, Try removing them and reconnecting them 180 degrees. It might just be that the pin connections are backwards. Hope it works! is that even possible?
  25. wow; what pieces of crap. you figure when you use the more expensive german part, it should work better than the generic cheap part. apparently not. i guess i'll just have to figure out what resistor i need to run in parallel with the sensor to clear the code. once i figure this out, i'll post back here.
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