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insite

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Everything posted by insite

  1. insite
    they all look to be in good shape. i pulled up the carpet from the trunk to inspect the wiring at the back side of the plugs. they seem to be okay. the new sensors are direct fit bosch that plug into the OEM harness w/ no mods. i'll cross reference the part number on the box with the old one when i get home. i guess it's possible they're not the right sensors, but i bought them from two different places. chances of them both being wrong are slim....
  2. insite
    thanks for the reply. had a bout of dyslexic typing: P0140, not P0410. since it's highly unlikely that BOTH of these brand new O2 sensors are defective, what else could cause this? thanks.
  3. insite
    here's the story: just did a bunch of work on my car. i had a dead O2 sensor (reading open on the OBDII scanner, P0410) and some other things to do. i wound up doing a light flywheel, clutch, headers, and muffler (my car is a 2.5L, so i did not remove any cats). i also replaced BOTH O2 sensors behind the cats with new OEM style Bosch (direct plug-in). i am now getting P1117 and P1121, indicating inadequate heating on both of the brand new sensors. what gives? does anyone know what the resistance across the heating elements is supposed to be? any ideas as to what would cause this? when i clear the codes with the scanner, they come back pretty quickly.
  4. insite
    i'm inclined to agree....hopefully my ears are good and it really is the passenger side, otherwise, i'll be buying two.
  5. insite
    i did actually remove both exhaust manifolds & replace them w/ headers. i'll check that, but i'm not sure it's the problem since the noise gets faster with vehicle speed rather than engine speed.
  6. insite
    ah, didn't mean to infer that i'd discounted personal error here. the 'oh well' comment might as well have been 'c'est la vie'. whenever something breaks, the FIRST place i look is to what was most recently done on the car. in this case, i'd had the axles off and the car was making a speed sensitive knock. in my mind, this is where probability says the problem is. still, though, i like to generate possibility lists before i dive in so i can check everything in one shot.
  7. insite
    so far that's my guess, too. unfortunate since i just serviced the joints. oh well. still taking ideas just in case....anyone?
  8. insite
    i always hate trying to diagnose a funny noise from text, so i'll do my best to describe this. i'm just trying to get a list of ideas to help me find the source of this noise. as an FYI, two weeks ago i did the clutch, flywheel, axle rebuild, and exhaust. one week ago i was at the race track. the noise sounds a little bit like a helicopter in the distance; it's not very loud, but it is a little audible over my exhaust. it seems to come from the right rear of the car. it increases frequency with vehicle speed, NOT RPM. it ONLY occurs when the engine is under load (even a teeny, tiny bit of load). it does NOT occur when coasting in neutral, driving in gear under no load, or decelerating in gear under engine braking. it occurs in any gear. any ideas are appreciated; this is just a brainstorming exercise. thanks.
  9. insite
    you're good, RFM! i pulled the tranny earlier today and noticed that. Spec sent either the wrong clutch disk or the wrong pressure plate. ugh. thanks everyone for the help.
  10. insite
    tried removing and reinstalling the slave cylinder, then bleeding it. after bleeding it, same problem: pedal is more or less locked. as an added bonus, while i was pressing the pedal, the slave cylinder burst. i HOPE that the stiff pedal was the result of a bad slave cylinder (maybe hyper-extended it on removal?) and that when i replace the slave cylinder, all will be well. i cannot imagine anything else that could cause this problem short of a defective pressure plate. i just don't see this as likely. here are pics of the clutch and release bearing just prior to mate.
  11. insite
    just did a clutch and light flywheel. the transmission is back in the car, but the exhaust and undercarriage stuff isn't in yet. the slave cylinder is installed. i tested the pedal to see how it felt. it is VERY hard to press and feels like it only goes about half way down. this has me concerned. my guess is the slave cylinder is misaligned or something. any ideas? thanks.
  12. insite
    thanks, todd. i take it the torque spec on the pulley bolt is such that it won't loosen when i back out the fw bolts?
  13. insite
    ha! maybe i'll go the hack saw route. i used to always jerry rig a screwdriver with clamps or something; i figured since i'd graduated to pcars, i'd get the tool. hack saws away. thanks for the help.
  14. insite
    loren - you wouldn't happen to know where one of these is available for under $80, do you? i'm having a hard time believing that this is the best price.
  15. insite
    you are the man, sir. thank you once again.
  16. insite
    i found 9206 listed as a 'toothed segment,' which is correct, but it says nothing about application. anyone? EDIT: i found 9538/1 for use on the 986, but it looks like the one for use w/ engine out that attaches to the engine stand. it also says that this tool works for the 968. there is another tool listed that works for the 968 with the engine IN the car, but it's not listed as being for use with the boxster. anyone? thanks.
  17. insite
    in my mind, this is the procedure here: untension timing chains remove IMS flange install IMS flange to IMS use special tool to jack ims flange to proper location install IMS flange bolts is this correct?
  18. insite
    i see a lot of CV boot kits for sale, but never any indication of whether it's for the inner or outer boot. are they the same? just checking before i order. thanks.
  19. insite
    having trouble finding a flywheel lock for the boxster. i THINK it's the same as the 944 tool (#9206). does this sound right? also, while i'm in there doing the clutch, flywheel, RMS, IMS flange bolts, and case bolts, should i bother replacing the IMS seal? replacement looks like it might equire some special tools. from what i gather, i'll need the tools that screw into the motor and release the chain tension. also, some kind of tool that holds the IMS centered. does this sound right?
  20. insite
    can that really be the problem? i noticed lately that every time i fill up i get a code soon after, 0446 i believe, and now i started getting these 2 that were discussing here... worked for me. i noticed that sometimes it would come on after a fill-up, and go off about two days after other fill-ups. my theory is that the cap started to not seal so well, and that it would leak sometimes & trigger the CEL. i replaced the cap. the light went off after about 65 miles and never came back on. that was several months ago.
  21. insite
    good catch! the arrows point along the side of the car, so front to back.
  22. insite
    that's the stock dual mass flywheel. i was referring to the aftermarket aluminum ones.
  23. insite
    Kevin According to others that have swaped 3.4 Ltr motors into Boxster the 996 flywheel will not fit. Catman fair enough. thanks! still hard for me to believe that people are chargint $800 - $1000 for a $#%& flywheel.
  24. insite
    i'm wondering if it's possible to mount a 996 flywheel & clutch in a boxster. getting ready to do my clutch and a light weight flywheel. fidanza doesn't make a flywheel for the boxster anymore, but they DO make one for a 996. since they're about half the price of Aasco, i'm wondering if i can put it in my car and replace my clutch with a 996 version. will this work? are the ring gears the same? clutch splines?
  25. insite
    thanks for the replies, guys. juniic - you're probably right that there's a short to ground somewhere in the motor mechanism. i actually have an extra lying around from a 996 cab; i'll swap it in to see if the problem goes away. FYI, the only difference between the motors is that the 996 cab motor will drop the window all the way when you unhinge the convertible top latch.
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