insite

Ok, P0140 makes more sense.

Are the connectors/wires good?

Are the new sensors the right part?

they all look to be in good shape. i pulled up the carpet from the trunk to inspect the wiring at the back side of the plugs. they seem to be okay. the new sensors are direct fit bosch that plug into the OEM harness w/ no mods. i'll cross reference the part number on the box with the old one when i get home. i guess it's possible they're not the right sensors, but i bought them from two different places. chances of them both being wrong are slim....

I am confused P0410 is: Secondary Air Injection System - Signal Implausible (Cylinders 1 - 3). That code usually means the secondary air pump is not triggered - not O2 sensors.

P1117 and P1121

1. Remove connector of 02 sensor 1/2 after catalytic converter.

2. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pins 1 and 2.

Display: 1.8 - 2.5 ohms at 20°C.

3. Connect ohmmeter on pin side to pin 1 and 02 sensor housing.

Display: infinite ohms

thanks for the reply. had a bout of dyslexic typing: P0140, not P0410. since it's highly unlikely that BOTH of these brand new O2 sensors are defective, what else could cause this? thanks.

here's the story: just did a bunch of work on my car. i had a dead O2 sensor (reading open on the OBDII scanner, P0410) and some other things to do. i wound up doing a light flywheel, clutch, headers, and muffler (my car is a 2.5L, so i did not remove any cats). i also replaced BOTH O2 sensors behind the cats with new OEM style Bosch (direct plug-in).

i am now getting P1117 and P1121, indicating inadequate heating on both of the brand new sensors. what gives? does anyone know what the resistance across the heating elements is supposed to be? any ideas as to what would cause this? when i clear the codes with the scanner, they come back pretty quickly.

This sounds a lot like an axle to me. When the axles are loaded by the engine the bearings are in a different position than when you're coasting or decelerating. It sounds like the axle has some FOD in it or it's just worn out.

i'm inclined to agree....hopefully my ears are good and it really is the passenger side, otherwise, i'll be buying two.

Did you remove the exhauxt mainifold? I remember my 3 series BMW had a simialr sound when there was a leaking gasket on the manifold allowing the sound from the cams to come through

i did actually remove both exhaust manifolds & replace them w/ headers. i'll check that, but i'm not sure it's the problem since the noise gets faster with vehicle speed rather than engine speed.

Your recent service may very well be good but I would NEVER count out the failure of a recently repaired part due to human error. I've seen CV joints damaged prematurely from poor lubrication or installation.

I buddy of mine lost a $100K Formula boat this last summer due to human error of the dealer due to poor install of a regular maintenance item, the outdrive bellows. This is a boats version of a CV boot and human error was the fault.

Never count it out until you have personally inspected.

ah, didn't mean to infer that i'd discounted personal error here. the 'oh well' comment might as well have been 'c'est la vie'. whenever something breaks, the FIRST place i look is to what was most recently done on the car. in this case, i'd had the axles off and the car was making a speed sensitive knock. in my mind, this is where probability says the problem is. still, though, i like to generate possibility lists before i dive in so i can check everything in one shot.

Sounds like a bearing or CV joint...although since it goes away I doubt it's a bearing. Bearings tend to rumble all the time. CV joints can make their funny sounds (usually clicks while turning) while only under load. They often go away while coasting.

Shawn

www.carboncow.com

so far that's my guess, too. unfortunate since i just serviced the joints. oh well.

still taking ideas just in case....anyone?

i always hate trying to diagnose a funny noise from text, so i'll do my best to describe this. i'm just trying to get a list of ideas to help me find the source of this noise. as an FYI, two weeks ago i did the clutch, flywheel, axle rebuild, and exhaust. one week ago i was at the race track.

the noise sounds a little bit like a helicopter in the distance; it's not very loud, but it is a little audible over my exhaust.

it seems to come from the right rear of the car.

it increases frequency with vehicle speed, NOT RPM.

it ONLY occurs when the engine is under load (even a teeny, tiny bit of load).

it does NOT occur when coasting in neutral, driving in gear under no load, or decelerating in gear under engine braking.

it occurs in any gear.

any ideas are appreciated; this is just a brainstorming exercise. thanks.

After watching your pics it looks normal to me that you can't press the pedal all the way in, the pressure plate is already pressed in after installing, the diaphragm fingers are too deep. Possible causes are clutch disc too thick or installed in the wrong direction ( transmission side installed facing the flywheel ) or wrong type pressure plate.

you're good, RFM! i pulled the tranny earlier today and noticed that. Spec sent either the wrong clutch disk or the wrong pressure plate. ugh. thanks everyone for the help.

tried removing and reinstalling the slave cylinder, then bleeding it. after bleeding it, same problem: pedal is more or less locked. as an added bonus, while i was pressing the pedal, the slave cylinder burst. i HOPE that the stiff pedal was the result of a bad slave cylinder (maybe hyper-extended it on removal?) and that when i replace the slave cylinder, all will be well. i cannot imagine anything else that could cause this problem short of a defective pressure plate. i just don't see this as likely.

here are pics of the clutch and release bearing just prior to mate.

just did a clutch and light flywheel. the transmission is back in the car, but the exhaust and undercarriage stuff isn't in yet. the slave cylinder is installed. i tested the pedal to see how it felt. it is VERY hard to press and feels like it only goes about half way down. this has me concerned. my guess is the slave cylinder is misaligned or something. any ideas? thanks.

Just counter hold the motor from turning by placing a socket on the front pulley crank bolt.

thanks, todd. i take it the torque spec on the pulley bolt is such that it won't loosen when i back out the fw bolts?

ha! maybe i'll go the hack saw route. i used to always jerry rig a screwdriver with clamps or something; i figured since i'd graduated to pcars, i'd get the tool. hack saws away. thanks for the help.

loren - you wouldn't happen to know where one of these is available for under $80, do you? i'm having a hard time believing that this is the best price.

9538/1 works either way.

You fasten 9538/1 toothed segment to the crankcase using an M12 x 50 hexagon-head bolt (fine thread).

you are the man, sir. thank you once again.

Have a look at the Porsche Standard Tools list.

Available to Contributing Members to download here.

And/or Porsche Workshop Equipment here.

i found 9206 listed as a 'toothed segment,' which is correct, but it says nothing about application. anyone?

EDIT: i found 9538/1 for use on the 986, but it looks like the one for use w/ engine out that attaches to the engine stand. it also says that this tool works for the 968. there is another tool listed that works for the 968 with the engine IN the car, but it's not listed as being for use with the boxster. anyone? thanks.

Well... the TSB says "Replace fastening bolts on the intermediate shaft flange. Since the intermediate shaft flange is loaded by the chain tensioners, the fastening bolts must be replaced only one at a time."

Porsche uses a special tool (9642) to postion and hold the intermediate shaft.

in my mind, this is the procedure here:

untension timing chains

remove IMS flange

install IMS flange to IMS

use special tool to jack ims flange to proper location

install IMS flange bolts

is this correct?

i see a lot of CV boot kits for sale, but never any indication of whether it's for the inner or outer boot. are they the same? just checking before i order. thanks.

having trouble finding a flywheel lock for the boxster. i THINK it's the same as the 944 tool (#9206). does this sound right?

also, while i'm in there doing the clutch, flywheel, RMS, IMS flange bolts, and case bolts, should i bother replacing the IMS seal?

replacement looks like it might equire some special tools. from what i gather, i'll need the tools that screw into the motor and release the chain tension. also, some kind of tool that holds the IMS centered. does this sound right?

try replacing your gas cap.

can that really be the problem? i noticed lately that every time i fill up i get a code soon after, 0446 i believe, and now i started getting these 2 that were discussing here...

worked for me. i noticed that sometimes it would come on after a fill-up, and go off about two days after other fill-ups. my theory is that the cap started to not seal so well, and that it would leak sometimes & trigger the CEL. i replaced the cap. the light went off after about 65 miles and never came back on. that was several months ago.

There is something missing from the directions on the front strut install... once the Strut is removed you will see 2 arrows back to back stamped into the hat. When you reinstall this on the car... should the arrows point left to right or front to back?

good catch! the arrows point along the side of the car, so front to back.

U can get a brand new LUK part # 98611401201 for about $600, used one for about $250.00

that's the stock dual mass flywheel. i was referring to the aftermarket aluminum ones.

i'm wondering if it's possible to mount a 996 flywheel & clutch in a boxster. getting ready to do my clutch and a light weight flywheel. fidanza doesn't make a flywheel for the boxster anymore, but they DO make one for a 996. since they're about half the price of Aasco, i'm wondering if i can put it in my car and replace my clutch with a 996 version. will this work? are the ring gears the same? clutch splines?

Kevin

According to others that have swaped 3.4 Ltr motors into Boxster the 996 flywheel will not fit.

Catman

fair enough. thanks! still hard for me to believe that people are chargint $800 - $1000 for a $#%& flywheel.

i'm wondering if it's possible to mount a 996 flywheel & clutch in a boxster. getting ready to do my clutch and a light weight flywheel. fidanza doesn't make a flywheel for the boxster anymore, but they DO make one for a 996. since they're about half the price of Aasco, i'm wondering if i can put it in my car and replace my clutch with a 996 version. will this work? are the ring gears the same? clutch splines?

thanks for the replies, guys. juniic - you're probably right that there's a short to ground somewhere in the motor mechanism. i actually have an extra lying around from a 996 cab; i'll swap it in to see if the problem goes away. FYI, the only difference between the motors is that the 996 cab motor will drop the window all the way when you unhinge the convertible top latch.