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ah571006

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Everything posted by ah571006

  1. Hello Maurice, Got the rubber bushing in and put everything together this evening. When I tightened down the allen bolt against the brass bushing, I didn't pay any attention to the orientation of the bushing offset. The bushing won't turn when the screw is tight. Is this normal? The only thing I can figure is that it's a fine adjustment for the rod length rather than adjusting with the 10mm bolt. When I tried opening and closing the top, it didn't start out very well. When the clamshell closed and I kept the button depressed waiting for the motor to stop, the clamshell started opening again. I partially lowered the top again and tried closing. When the clamshell was partway down, I set the switch lever on the motor down. The motor stopped as I assume it should have. I tried closing completely again and the clamshell closed and motor shut off as it should have. Were the switches just not synchronized or ????. At any rate, I cycled several times and it seems to be working as it should! The only thing I see amiss now is the very front edge of the clamshell at the door is rubbing against the trim. I'm not sure if it was like this before, but, I doubt it because neither the trim nor the clamshell paint is scraped. But, I'm sure it will be if I let it go. Is there an adjustment to move the clamshell back a couple mm's? It doesn't seem like an adj of the transmission timing would cause this. I see the light!!! You've been a great help, Thanks, Tom
  2. Hello Chris, I'm no expert, but, I'm going thru this same thing myself right now. Since the lever can only go on 2 ways, you may be able to see how it was originally orientated by looking at the surface of the lever that contact the gear. The gear itself has a groove on it's face. You may be able to see the outline of where the groove was sitting on the lever. Mount it that way, then rotate the gear so that the lever aligns with the witness marks on the case. Hope this helps, Tom
  3. Hello Maurice, Thanks for the reference on the replacement sockets. He was very good to work with and they worked out great! I'm still not positive I'm completely out of the woods yet, though. I'm waiting on the rubber grommets that go on the opposite end of the same arms. I hope they'll be here in the next couple of days. Then I'll put everything back together and keep my fingers crossed that all the timing and switches work right. One other question: I see that the holes in the bushings that the bolts go thru on the end of the rod that connects to the transmission arm are offset. What is the reason for this? Or, does the bolt not tighten all the way down to lock the bushing? I did see that it was loctited. Should this bushing be free to rotate, or, should it be clamped tight in a certain orientation? I do have a Bentley manual, but, it says nothing about this. Thanks again for your help, Tom
  4. Hello Maurice, I will definitely take your advice on both counts. I'll stop at Radio Shack on the way home from work tonight. Also, yes, please let me know a source for the ball cups. If they have the rubber grommets that go on the other end, I'll get those too. You can either post or send me email direct at ah571006@verizon.net Thank you very much - you've been very helpful. Tom
  5. Thanks Maurice, I think I have it. I took out the relay and tapped it a couple times like you mention in several previous posts, then put it back in with a few wiggles to ensure connections. When I activate the b pillar microswitch, I now hear the clicking at the relay. And the motor reverses. Sort of odd that you need to cycle the switch / relay to make it reverse since there's an up and down button?? But, anyhow, it looks like the relay started sticking after sitting idle for the last 3 months or so. In the process, I broke one of the red sockets. Do you recommend replacing with the aluminum style that I've seen on ebay or would you stick with original? Once I get the part, I can then put everything back together and keep my fingers crossed. On this note, it seems that the measurement from the black ball on the transmission arm to the top of the weatherstripping (7 11/16) shouldn't be that critical. Just that both sides be identical. Once the arms are attached at all points, the clamshell and roof mechanism will be in correct relationship to each other. Then the switches take care of the rest. Is this correct? Thanks again for your help! Tom
  6. Hello, I've gone thru many threads on convertible top problems and still haven't figured out my problem. Hope someone can help. Closest is a post back in Aug by Insite (topic "Wierd Convertible Top Issue"). This describes my problem also. At first the top wouldn't go down. When I finally got the top in the service position and tried actuating the transmissions by the drill method, they wouldn't move. I found that they had overtraveled. I got them working again, but, when everything was hooked up, the switch worked in reverse and wouldn't stop. I over traveled again. I checked the B Pillar microswitch with an ohmmeter. It seems to work ok - makes connection when the button is depressed. I also checked to make sure the brown wire went to ground and it's ok. The other wire, I believe goes to the relay. In a response to Insite's post, 1schoir said that when activating the switch you should hear the clicking of the relay and the motor should reverse. This isn't happening. No reverse and no clicking. Could I have a bad relay? or ???? Thanks in advance for your help! Tom
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