munro86

Hi All,

Removing transmission on my 996-last bolt on the bell housing is a triple-square or and XZN bolt. Does anyone know what size it is?

Thanks for any help.

Jason

Hi thanks for any advice. Firstly, about a week ago the drivers window started making a very audible rubbing/scratching sound when raising or lowering. There's no mark on the window,but somethings wrong.The other thing started about two days ago.( With the door closed) about 2 seconds after the window reaches the top, it drops about 3-4 inches then stops. To keep the car secure I can edge it almost to the top and it stays there. Don't know if the problems are related. Any ideas?

Cheers,

Jason

Jason:

Your first issue sounds like a fraying window regulator cable. As Richard says, there's lots of info on this topic here (it's a very common problem), including a few good DIY posts on how to remove and repair.

regards, Maurice.

Thanks Everyone!

Hi thanks for any advice. Firstly, about a week ago the drivers window started making a very audible rubbing/scratching sound when raising or lowering. There's no mark on the window,but somethings wrong.The other thing started about two days ago.( With the door closed) about 2 seconds after the window reaches the top, it drops about 3-4 inches then stops. To keep the car secure I can edge it almost to the top and it stays there. Don't know if the problems are related. Any ideas?

Cheers,

Jason

I 've observed this for a few weeks now. Typically, in the first four gears, I experience this very preceptible miss, but only up to 2000rpm and then the acceleration is smooth. I know the engine management systems are quite complex in these cars, but I can't think what it could be in only a narrow rev range.

Any theories/ideas would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Jason

Congratulations! Are they original engine miles?

Hi -Just curious- are they original miles?

Oil filter housing I think he means

Thanks everyone!

I've had a 'double-beep' fault for sometime and wanted to get an error scan performed by someone other than Porsche. Found a fellow who was a master technician with Porsche for 30 years-so I went to see him. I pull up to his garage hidden amongst old heritage biuldings. To my delight all I could see was Porsche's- a boxter getting a new gearbox, a guards red targa carrera, a 944, two 964's- so I'm thinking this looks good. He, Carlos, immediately diagnosed the double-beep as the bracket on the oddments tray was broken-so he replaced it with a metal one- I then asked him to run a scan- so he pulls out the 'Porsche Diagnostic Tester' . To get to the point- it came up with with what he called 'F21' error, which he immediately said was the clock spring- it was 'broken' he said.( Yet I 've never heard any squeaking when turning as others have reported here)-in addition, and here's the clanger- the airbag warning light doesn't come on( I was completely oblivious to this BTW but he checked in front of me and lo and behold it doesn't come on at all). Carlos speculated that when the airbag originally came on, indicating, he says, a broken clock spring, whomever simply removed the airbag warning light bulb- but very disturbingly Carlos said:" If you were involved in major accident the airbags would not have deployed". "What?" I said incredulously( actually in my mind another two words were attached to what...). Sorry for the length people, but is this feasible? What does the clock spring have to do with the airbags?

He's convinced I need a new clock spring, but I just don't know how he can so quickly come to this conclusion. What think ye? :help:

Jason

Hi- my first thought was to ask if the dealer replaced the vibration dampeners? If you don't the old one s may squeal. One solution is to use Wurth anti-squeal spray which may provide a temporary fix.

Installed new battery today-no effect. I suppose this doesn't exlcude a circuit board problem with the remote, but how likely is this? The remote has never been dropped,subject to any shock nor has it been wet. I think now I need to have a error scan with the testor, but I know the stealer is going to do me over. :angry:

OK-This is the first time I've actually concentrated on what happens instead of a casual observation :rolleyes:

1. Locked the car with the key.

2.BOTHthe windscreen LED and dash LED blinked rapidly simultaneously for about ten seconds.

3. Dash LED then stopped.

4. Windscreen LED continued but at a slower interval.

Checked the car again after 10 minutes and no change i.e. windscreen LED only.

Well in an earlier post I stated the dash LED was flashing. This was true, so I don't know what to make of this now. Checked those fuses. Intact.

Jason

On UK cars (and I assume Aussie ones too) the alarm LED at the centre of the windscreen flashes rapidly for about 10 seconds when locking the car, and then settles down to a single-flash every 2 seconds. The LED on the locking button flashes while the dash LED is rapid-flashing, but goes off once the system is armed. If the dash LED single-flashes, and there are no horn beeps when you lock the car, then there are no faults on the car side of the system. If it single or double beeps, and the LED double-flashes, then you have a fault. If there are no faults, do you have another remote key you could try? Failing that, it's a trip to a dealer or independent workshop to read out the fault memory.

Very astute Richard- On one occasion there was the double-beep you refer to, but only once. The LEDon the dash single flashes constantly like you say. The windscreen one I'm not sure-I will have tp observe more closely. For the time being do you think the car alarm is still actually effectively working?. I'm never more than a few yards from the car and never take it to "no go" zones of which there are a few in Sydney(Australia). Thanks again Richard.

Jason

P.S. Only have one remote key.

Australia=RHD, so the control unit will be under the passenger seat.

Jason, from what you have said, I'm still not clear if the car is locking at all. Can you lock/unlock both doors with the key from the driver's door?

Edit: Also, looking at the fuse assignments on the wiring diagram, there seem to be two other fuses which relate to the alarm system - B8 and E1.

Thank you everyone for your replies. I can lock the car with the key, but no blinking of the indicators occurs. One thing I did notice on approaching the car form behind today was the red light near the radio was flashing and also the red light under the windscreen was as well. Also, the the interior is very dry-no ingress of water. I'll also check those other fuse references-Thank you all. Very much appreciated- thanks for taking the time.

Jason

How do you know that the alarm is not armed ? Or is it the central locking system that refuse to work when using the remote control ?

Thanks RFM- Good question. The alarm and central locking are on the same fuse -RowC-3 which is not blown. Things like the blinkers,the red indicator under the windscreen are not active it appears. Not sure what to do from here.

Jason

Hi Folks Greetings from Australia

I have a 98 996- the alarm of which has suddenly stopped working for no apparent reason. The Key-remote still has its little red light flashing when you press it, but the alarm will not arm. I've checked the fuse (Row C fuse 3) and its still intact. The car is totally shut when I try. I've altered nothing on the car. The only thing I've touched is the brakes-changed pads and rotors-which I would've thought is completely unrelated. I can still lock the car, however the alarm is not activated. Any suggestion to a cause/solution would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Jason

Hi Folks,

My '99 C4 hunts at idle when it is warm - sometimes.... A couple of quick taps of the accelerator usually makes the problem go away for a minute or so. The car does it only when it is warm and the size of the fluctuations are reduced when the ac is on. This car is fitted with the e-gas system.

Any suggestions / thoughts, would be appreciated.

Derek

Hi,

I have a 99 c2 that did this for quite sometime until I cleaned out the throttle body with some carburettor cleaner. When warm and at idle, it would drop down to about 5-600 rpms and then gradually come back up to 900rpms. Very rarely it would stall,but once I gave the throttle body a clean out I've also noticed it fires up quicker and straight away settles into a solid idle right on 900rpms. You can get a DIY description on Rennlist where Orient Express and Cosmos explain it under a thread entitled "Correcting a lumpy or erratic Idle' or something to that effect.

Hi,

Are front pressures more important than rears to get right? My thinking is its more important for the rears, but I may be wrong!

Jason

Hi,

I have a 98 996 with 63km's. Absolutely no problems(but its very babied!)

Jason

Guys, the shop's tech forgot to put on my lug nut. I am looking for one to replace it. What size do I need? I tried searching but I found 16.5mm and 14.5mm which is it? or 19mm?

Just take one off and measure it

Not sure if this information belongs in this forum or the product review, but wanted to share some findings from over the weekend.

My 99 C2 Cabrios' vinly interior (doors, dash, backseat sides) are beige from factory. But I did not know what the real color was until Sunday, when I decided to clean it. As I was trying a bunch of automotive and household cleaners, my wife came by with a "Mr. Clean Eraser" sponge. I tried it, and to my surprise, it worked great. Truly unbeliavable. The "blackness" dirt from the vinyl crevaces simply came out on the sponge, leaving a perfect beige surface as if it has never seen the outdoors.

I used 5 sponges, sometimes augemented them with "Mr. Clean" liquid, and the car interior looks brand new. The color is amazing. We emptied about a dozen buckets of dirty black water in the process of rinsing the sponge. The residue was removed with a clean wet hand towel.

After dried, used Armorall for all the surfaces.

Izzy

Where did the Mrs get it Izz?

Thanks,

jason

I'll check the oil as soon as I get home tonight, found a lot of horror stories in different forums... let's hope it's not as bad as I've read!

Here's an update on the situation, maybe this could help pinpointing in a more precise direction...:

Took out the pressure last night (long psssiiissshhhhhh + boiling sound when removing the cap), filled with coolant (a full 4 liter), then started the car and left it sitting at idle for 10 minutes. Released the pressure again (small psssiiiissshhhh), coolant level lowered a bit in the tank.

This morning, took the cap off and no coolant in the tank?!?!?! It was raining so I wasn't able to see if it leaked somewhere... Could it be that there's air in the system? Need for a purge? The coolant must go somewhere?!?! Cracked head or broken liner are plausible theories which could explain the codes and the hesitation around 2 000 rpm.

I'm completely mesmerized, this is my last shot before bringing it in tonight... and hopefully this won't cost me a new engine! :cursing:

P.S.: Tried driving with the valve open, it was much worse, smoke was coming out bad and temperature stayed top high, so I stopped everything...

Your feedback and thoughts are greatly appreciated!

Hi,

To me this looks unnervingly like oil contamination from what you are saying. I hope i'm wrong, but the smoking and complete disappearance of 4 litres of coolant would give me cause for concern. You simply couldn't lose that volume via a hose or tank leak without seeing something, so this logically leads one to think the coolant is going into the oil somehow. I've been told by others that tell tale sings of contamination are indications of a 'milkiness' in the oil, so have look on the dipstick and also the underside of the cap at the end of the oil filler tube. I recall someone saying that the presence of smoke emanating from the exhaust can indicate a blown head gasket, i.e. entry point of coolant into the oil. My experience was when the coolant tank was removed/drained to fix some wires a rat had chewed just beside the coolant tank. The mechanic refilled it, but he didn't realise you had to 'burp' the system. Consequently the first time I drove it it boiled. After consulting this great resource I refilled, drove with the purge valve open, and it was fixed. Again I stress I hope it is the tank , I'd hate to think of the alternative.

All the best,

Jason

The wiper washer fliud warning came on the other day, so I duly refilled it and left the cap off overnight to allow any air trapped by the new fliud to escape. This hasn't extinguished the light which is the only light on during driving. Is there anything else I can do? Does anything nedd to be reset or checked etc. Thanks for any help or suggestions you may have- I have a c2 996 911.

Jason

bump

Let us know if this works, Mike. This idea has been passed around before, though not sure anyone has ever successfully done it.

Well it worked OK. I needed to pump quite a few times to get enough oil removed. The problem was that the clear tubing I bought to go down the dipstick tube was too large in diamter to go all the way down. It did make a good seal and I was able to suck the oil up and out with the pump. I did have to buy a few fittings at the local hardware store to be able to attach the clear tubing.

Here is a pic of the contraption:

Mike- What did all that cost?

Jason

I don't have a CDR-21 manual but his is what the CDR-210 manual says:

Entering the antitheft CODE

This radio renders itself inoperative in the case of theft. If the radio or car battery is disconnected, the radio automatically disables itself. Once the radio is reinstalled or the battery is reconnected, the word "CODE", with a flashing letter "C", and the digits 1-0 appear in the display. Prior to use, the correct code must be entered via the multifunction keys.

Example: CODE 1530 (Preassigned to each radio and supplied to the owner on the PORSCHE RADIO CODE CARD) is entered by pressing the multifunction keys in sequence.

After the first digit is entered, the word "CODE" disappears and the number is displayed followed by three dashes. As digits are entered, the next line in sequence flashes. When all four numbers have been entered, the first digit flashes. At this time you can overwrite the code as often as necessary. To correct any error, you must enter the complete code. Once the correct code is displayed, enter by pushing the signal seek switch.

FIXED :clapping: