munro86

Hi All, Removing transmission on my 996-last bolt on the bell housing is a triple-square or and XZN bolt. Does anyone know what size it is? Thanks for any help. Jason

Jason: Your first issue sounds like a fraying window regulator cable. As Richard says, there's lots of info on this topic here (it's a very common problem), including a few good DIY posts on how to remove and repair. regards, Maurice. Thanks Everyone!

Hi thanks for any advice. Firstly, about a week ago the drivers window started making a very audible rubbing/scratching sound when raising or lowering. There's no mark on the window,but somethings wrong.The other thing started about two days ago.( With the door closed) about 2 seconds after the window reaches the top, it drops about 3-4 inches then stops. To keep the car secure I can edge it almost to the top and it stays there. Don't know if the problems are related. Any ideas? Cheers, Jason

I 've observed this for a few weeks now. Typically, in the first four gears, I experience this very preceptible miss, but only up to 2000rpm and then the acceleration is smooth. I know the engine management systems are quite complex in these cars, but I can't think what it could be in only a narrow rev range. Any theories/ideas would be appreciated. Cheers, Jason

Congratulations! Are they original engine miles?

Hi -Just curious- are they original miles?

Oil filter housing I think he means

Thanks everyone!

I've had a 'double-beep' fault for sometime and wanted to get an error scan performed by someone other than Porsche. Found a fellow who was a master technician with Porsche for 30 years-so I went to see him. I pull up to his garage hidden amongst old heritage biuldings. To my delight all I could see was Porsche's- a boxter getting a new gearbox, a guards red targa carrera, a 944, two 964's- so I'm thinking this looks good. He, Carlos, immediately diagnosed the double-beep as the bracket on the oddments tray was broken-so he replaced it with a metal one- I then asked him to run a scan- so he pulls out the 'Porsche Diagnostic Tester' . To get to the point- it came up with with what he called 'F21' error, which he immediately said was the clock spring- it was 'broken' he said.( Yet I 've never heard any squeaking when turning as others have reported here)-in addition, and here's the clanger- the airbag warning light doesn't come on( I was completely oblivious to this BTW but he checked in front of me and lo and behold it doesn't come on at all). Carlos speculated that when the airbag originally came on, indicating, he says, a broken clock spring, whomever simply removed the airbag warning light bulb- but very disturbingly Carlos said:" If you were involved in major accident the airbags would not have deployed". "What?" I said incredulously( actually in my mind another two words were attached to what...). Sorry for the length people, but is this feasible? What does the clock spring have to do with the airbags? He's convinced I need a new clock spring, but I just don't know how he can so quickly come to this conclusion. What think ye? :help: Jason

Hi- my first thought was to ask if the dealer replaced the vibration dampeners? If you don't the old one s may squeal. One solution is to use Wurth anti-squeal spray which may provide a temporary fix.

Installed new battery today-no effect. I suppose this doesn't exlcude a circuit board problem with the remote, but how likely is this? The remote has never been dropped,subject to any shock nor has it been wet. I think now I need to have a error scan with the testor, but I know the stealer is going to do me over. :angry:

OK-This is the first time I've actually concentrated on what happens instead of a casual observation :rolleyes: 1. Locked the car with the key. 2.BOTHthe windscreen LED and dash LED blinked rapidly simultaneously for about ten seconds. 3. Dash LED then stopped. 4. Windscreen LED continued but at a slower interval. Checked the car again after 10 minutes and no change i.e. windscreen LED only. Well in an earlier post I stated the dash LED was flashing. This was true, so I don't know what to make of this now. Checked those fuses. Intact. Jason

Very astute Richard- On one occasion there was the double-beep you refer to, but only once. The LEDon the dash single flashes constantly like you say. The windscreen one I'm not sure-I will have tp observe more closely. For the time being do you think the car alarm is still actually effectively working?. I'm never more than a few yards from the car and never take it to "no go" zones of which there are a few in Sydney(Australia). Thanks again Richard. Jason P.S. Only have one remote key.

Thank you everyone for your replies. I can lock the car with the key, but no blinking of the indicators occurs. One thing I did notice on approaching the car form behind today was the red light near the radio was flashing and also the red light under the windscreen was as well. Also, the the interior is very dry-no ingress of water. I'll also check those other fuse references-Thank you all. Very much appreciated- thanks for taking the time. Jason

Thanks RFM- Good question. The alarm and central locking are on the same fuse -RowC-3 which is not blown. Things like the blinkers,the red indicator under the windscreen are not active it appears. Not sure what to do from here. Jason

Hi Folks Greetings from Australia I have a 98 996- the alarm of which has suddenly stopped working for no apparent reason. The Key-remote still has its little red light flashing when you press it, but the alarm will not arm. I've checked the fuse (Row C fuse 3) and its still intact. The car is totally shut when I try. I've altered nothing on the car. The only thing I've touched is the brakes-changed pads and rotors-which I would've thought is completely unrelated. I can still lock the car, however the alarm is not activated. Any suggestion to a cause/solution would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jason

Hi, I have a 99 c2 that did this for quite sometime until I cleaned out the throttle body with some carburettor cleaner. When warm and at idle, it would drop down to about 5-600 rpms and then gradually come back up to 900rpms. Very rarely it would stall,but once I gave the throttle body a clean out I've also noticed it fires up quicker and straight away settles into a solid idle right on 900rpms. You can get a DIY description on Rennlist where Orient Express and Cosmos explain it under a thread entitled "Correcting a lumpy or erratic Idle' or something to that effect.

Hi, Are front pressures more important than rears to get right? My thinking is its more important for the rears, but I may be wrong! Jason

Hi, I have a 98 996 with 63km's. Absolutely no problems(but its very babied!) Jason

Just take one off and measure it

Where did the Mrs get it Izz? Thanks, jason

Hi, To me this looks unnervingly like oil contamination from what you are saying. I hope i'm wrong, but the smoking and complete disappearance of 4 litres of coolant would give me cause for concern. You simply couldn't lose that volume via a hose or tank leak without seeing something, so this logically leads one to think the coolant is going into the oil somehow. I've been told by others that tell tale sings of contamination are indications of a 'milkiness' in the oil, so have look on the dipstick and also the underside of the cap at the end of the oil filler tube. I recall someone saying that the presence of smoke emanating from the exhaust can indicate a blown head gasket, i.e. entry point of coolant into the oil. My experience was when the coolant tank was removed/drained to fix some wires a rat had chewed just beside the coolant tank. The mechanic refilled it, but he didn't realise you had to 'burp' the system. Consequently the first time I drove it it boiled. After consulting this great resource I refilled, drove with the purge valve open, and it was fixed. Again I stress I hope it is the tank , I'd hate to think of the alternative. All the best, Jason

bump

Well it worked OK. I needed to pump quite a few times to get enough oil removed. The problem was that the clear tubing I bought to go down the dipstick tube was too large in diamter to go all the way down. It did make a good seal and I was able to suck the oil up and out with the pump. I did have to buy a few fittings at the local hardware store to be able to attach the clear tubing. Here is a pic of the contraption: Mike- What did all that cost? Jason

FIXED :clapping: