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niceguy

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Everything posted by niceguy

  1. Thanks everyone who helped with my problem Finally, both the abs/psm, erratic idle and p0102 are all gone. Durametric is telling me there is no error code after driving for 3 days. The problem was solved through 2 leak tests. The indy found around 5 leaks and also replaced a dozen of other vacuum hoses a as precautionary measure. 3-4 leaks were found near the F hose, but the F hose itself was fine. The first leak test showed also a leak with the venturi T piece with part no. 99611065270. So problem persisted for another month while I was waiting for the T piece to arrive. At last, when this T piece that sits just behind the top of the engine oil filter was replaced, all the throttle response and stable idling are back. The car is perfect again, thanks for all the help. I hope my sharing will become a useful one for those who read this post.
  2. I have sent him some data logs. He said the boost and fuel are fine.
  3. Yes, my brake lights work without flickering. No abs/psm or cel during braking or under boost at part throttle or WOT.
  4. I am running stock paper filter and airbox :) The car drives perfectly with some throttle or more. It is only when it idles that rev drops below 800rpm, sometimes it drops as low as 500rpm and the engine revs up automatically. This issue is killing me. Does it sound like a leak or the MAF?
  5. Thanks for all the replies, really appreciated Mine is a tip so no LWFW in this case. Kelvin UMW did my flash and I swear it ran perfectly for almost 5 years until I hit this problem that my indy and I can't solve. To sum up the issue, as long as the engine rev is above 2000rpm or provided that I have some throttle input, no abs/psm light will ever come on. The car drives perfectly only has the annoying abs/psm issue during idling and city driving. I datalog some normal driving and 3rd &4th gear pulls and my tuner thinks they are absolutely fine. Does this suggest it is some kind of boost leak on the intake side?
  6. yes flashed running 1bar with stock turbo n 200 cell exhaust. the car drove fine for 4 yrs Do you think there might be other issues?
  7. :help: I am very sad that I still cannot get this problem sorted after a few months. The new MAF 996.606.124.00 I bought from dealer was scratched on the metal film. Faulty MAF pics attached. Now back to the old MAF 5+ yrs old Repairs done Throttle body cleaned Replaced vaccum hoses on top of DVs, metal Y-pipe, the stock solenoid. New stock spark plugs Replaced the 4 turbo and intercooler hoses (car reaches target boost, no power loss at all) Stock hollow wheels n tires Symptoms 1. Abs/psm ONLY comes on whenever there is a small bump, read with durametric, P0102 Hot film 2. Engine rev dropping below 800rpm @ idle (tuner states it should be 800rpm steady) 3. Above 70kph (~44mph) the abs/psm NEVER comes on. 4. Clear code with durametric, P0102 always comes back. To sum up the symptom, the car drives perfectly as long as there is some throttle or at WOT. There is no boost leak or power loss. It sits at 1.1 bar at peak boost and no CEL or any irregularities. Problem only takes place during town driving. Possible issues 1. MAF 2. vacuum leak on the intake side 3 … Can the car possibily have any other possible issue?
  8. Dear RFM, My MAF is brand new bought from a local reputable bosch dealer and it came in its original box sealed. I had a vacuum leak that caused the rev to run high and unstable rev at under 2000rpm. Can I possibily datalog the MAF and post it here for your guys to see if my new MAF is faulty or not? What do I need to datalog? May I ask which wiring are you referring to? Thanks a lot for your help
  9. Failing to get my hands on a compressed air pump, I decided to spray some crab cleaner onto those accessible vacuum and boost hoses to see if I can any suspected leak. It is funny to say that even with the suspected vacuum leak, the boost shown on the dash is stable at 1.1 bar and power delivery is smooth. I do not feel any power loss and the car is still as fast as before according to my accelerometer. Since the new MAF, I have done just over 100km. The car has been occasionally throwing ABS/PSM CEL on the dash and the P0102 Factory Fault Code 115 - Mass air flow sensor, below limit was read. Furthermore, No other fault codes with engine, tiptronic or abs/psm were read by the durametric. Have you got any idea why it had caused the P0102 code? In the attached photos, the 2 hoses that I circled in red are in fact linked together with part of it linking to the great black metal y-pipe that connects to the throttle body. Having sprayed some crab cleaner to these 2 hoses, I found that the rev counter definitely dropped and therefore I suspect there to be leaks. Fortunately, I was told that hose is the breather hose from the oil tanks mounted on the turbochargers. I also sprayed some crab cleaner onto the F hose that connects the 2 DVs, the Intercooler hoses and the hoses on the N75 boost solenoid but found no rev dropping. Do you think this breather hose is the culprit? And should I go out and datalog any particular value to narrow down the issue? Thank you very much for your help :p:
  10. I am running Yokohama AD08 2012 tires on stock wheels at the moment, they can easy take all the power of a remapped 996tt with DV and 200 cell exhaust running 1.1bar. I found them to be excellent on the street and have fantastic wear and grip. It surely is a fast tire as the salesman suggested on tirerack. I have run 5500km and there are still 80% or so tread left in them. The best thing I love about the AD08 is the stiff sidewall that gives direct steering response that matches my old Dunlop D03G R-compound that I had before the AD08. The D03G H1 compound has more ultimate grip but they do heat cycle out far too quickly. I would defo try AD08R the new 2013 compound with the same tread patt as the old.
  11. Symptom #1 Just been out driving and found the car to idle at a around 800 rpm and whenever it drops to around 750 rpm, it revs up to nearly 950-1000 rpm. The whole process simply repeats itself most of the time at traffic light. Symptom #2 happens mostly on highway in 5th gear under 2000 rpm. It does so in 2nd, 3rd and 4th too. The rev counter just goes up and down between 1700-1900 rpm.
  12. Having installed a new MAF 996.606.124.00 + reset ECU, the problem didn't go away. Car has the following Throttle body cleaned & New stock spark plugs, Injectors cleaned with Redline Si-1 3000km ago Billet DV UMW remap 200 cell exhaust Stock hollow wheels n tires My car has developed 3 symptoms recently 1. engine rev hunting @ idle (almost stalled feeling) & 2. engine rev rising and dropping (bouncy rev) under 2000rpm 3. ABS/PSM comes on @ off throttle + bouncy pot holes. To better describe symptom #2, the car drives perfectly at WOT or with a slightly heavier right foot. There is no boost leak or power loss. It sits at 1.1 bar at peak boost and no vibration or engine rev rising or dropping during WOT. All bouncy engine happen rev below 2000rpm at cursing speed. Does symptom #3 suggests new a ABS sensor kit? What should I do to cure symptom #2 the bouncy rev?
  13. Latest report, My indy finally had time to appoint my car. He fitted 2 wedding grade cables which have twice the amount of copper wires than the stock engine to ground cable for me. One from the engine to chassis and the other from gearbox to chassis. The problem has now been solved. Cannot be happier :) Car now seeing close to 14v without AC and headlights, 13.5v with AC and headlights on, hopefully I can see 13.7-9v when the battery is charged from the current 11.8 to 12.6v. Thanks every one who helped, especially to Ahsai who helped tons. :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: Full respect to him, thanks again!!! James
  14. I bought some special tools to see if I could really squeeze my small hands to reach the bolt at the ground strap at the engine side. But, sadly, no matter how hard I tried I just couldnt reach it. So, my only option now is to get my indy to do it from the engine cover tomorrow if he has time. I will report back as soon as I get it fixed.
  15. Wow, you are not only kind but also knowledge. Thanks again for the info. I will be working on the car in a few hours and hopefully report back with some gd news. James
  16. Hi Ahsai, I thought about your suggestion and your are right, I will do that. Do you know roughly the length of the #36? Because I will need to bring my 4m cable to the shop for them to professionally crimped it and put some weather protection on it. I plan to add only THREE 4-gauge cables to the existing one for now. Do you think the heat that I felt in the 4 gauge cables came from the extra length and not mainly because it is not thick enough?
  17. Ahsai, Thanks for sharing your results of Test A and B. I can now build a much better picture of what a basic electrical looks like in my head. You do have a very strong ground compare to mine!! :) My Vdrop is 1.45v :oops:. In terms of my results for Test C, what do they indicate? Vdrop airfilter bolt to engine case= 0.9-1.2v (not sure about why I lost voltage here)Vdrop engine case to chassis side ground strap =1.5-1.6v (this is the voltage I lost with #36)Vdrop chassis side ground strap to battery -VR terminal = 0.01v (not sure about this one) Lastly, what does the result from the Toyota test of the open circuit - insulated side = 0.35v show? Toyota says it should be under 0.2v. Is there anything that I should worry about here? Thanks for everything again, Ahsai :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
  18. Thanks Ahsai again and thanks Loren. My battery hasnt been receiving the correct charge for almost 3 weeks now. It is down to 10.1-10.2 during crank. Therefore, I just cant wait for 4 weeks from the dealer or have it shipped internationally from the state. It will cost $88 usd for it to reach me in a week's time. So, I plan to put FOUR 4-gauge cables together and have them crimped professionally using a hydraulic crimping machine and put some weather proofing material on top of the cable and use it that way. This time I will also make them 16-17cm long instead of 4-meter long (the cable came in one piece crimped on each side) . The question is, will THREE or even TWO 4-guage cables be enough?
  19. I realised the Part no. 99660703401 for the 2001 996 Turbo is what I will need. It takes 4 weeks for my local dealership to have it backorder at $60 usd. Can I actually put THREE 4-guage cables from the original engine strap location to the original chassis engine strap location and add a few other engine to chassis straps instead of being ripped off? I have already got 4 meters worth of 4-guage cable with each side crimped with hydraulic crimping machine.
  20. Thks Ahsai n JFP :)I will ask my Indy for a new #36. Is it a gd idea to add some extra 4 gauge ground? Did Test A show that the #28 is going to fail soon? Its Vdrop is 0.22v. What should a good one be? Should I get a new #28, too? Finally, a big thank you to all everyone who helped! I am truly grateful for finally getting to the bottom of the low voltage problem. :) I will report back after a new #36. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: James
  21. Good newsI hv attached a 4-meter long 4-gauge ground cable, from a not so directly location at the engine ground to the chassis ground strap bolt and the voltage went up immediately. It went from idle engine 12.6v to 13.1v at the battery. But, that 4 gauge ground became a little hot. Could this be due to the length of the 4-gauge cable being 4 meters long creating too much resistance?
  22. Thks a lot again, Ahsai Results Vdrop airfilter bolt to engine case= 0.9-1.2v Vdrop engine case to chassis side ground strap =1.5-1.6v Vdrop chassis side ground strap to battery -VR terminal = 0.01v Vdrop chassis side #1 to battery -be terminal = 0v Jumper from battery -ve term to airfilter bolt did not see any improvement perhaps the jumper lead is thinner than 8 gauge. New discovery about #36, the engine side bolt is loose because I can wiggle the ground strap around but sadly I couldn't reach the bolt to tighten it. The wires inside the ground strap appears to be brown and in rusty colour. Are the wires supposed to be silver in colour inside the ground strap? Should I bring the car in to my Indy and him to replace #36 the r hind ground strap? Will this fix the low voltage problem for a while? Meanwhile I will order the #28 fix as well.
  23. Ahsai, you are my life saver! I must thank you for every careful step in explaining what I have to do. I want to try all of the Test C, but I cant reach the engine side of ground strap on the turbo from under the car because the engine strap bolt is located on top of the engine. Also, I cannot reach it from the engine bay because those engine oil filler tube, air pump and hoses are all in the way. Do you know how I can reach it? Vdrop between airfilter bolt and engine side of ground strap (#36) (wish I could get to the engine side of the ground strap, I'm really gutted)Vdrop between engine side of ground strap and chassis side of ground strap (i cant reach the engine side ground strap, can I simply use the engine shell as a replacement?)Vdrop between chassis side of ground strap to chassis side of #1 (battery -ve cable) (will try that today)Vdrop between chassis side of #1 and -ve battery terminal (will definitely try this too) Use a jumper cable to short out the -ve battery terminal (on the battery or the lead?) and the airfilter bolt and you should see immediate improvement. Try to use gauge 8 or fatter jumper cable. (will try this) Do I have to try them with ac on and headlights just like Test A & B? I will definitely need the luck. I am going to report back today, please wait for my good news. Thanks also for the explanation on reving the engine vs Vdrop. James :)
  24. I lost 1.2-1.5v at the ground and that is exactly the sum of 1.35v of what I lost at the battery 1.35+12.2v (during the measurement) = 13.75v with ac and headlights
  25. Would the voltage drop values that I measured have dropped or risen if I had managed to raise the engine rpm to 2000rpm?It does look like the ground is questionable. According to my understanding, there are only 2 grounds in the car. First is at the battery -ve lead and the other is from the engine to the chassis. I had used contact cleaner n carefully cleaned the battery ground lead and it's chassis connection bolt last week before I took all my pervious readings.
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