niceguy

Hi there, I'm getting some knocking noise from the front end whenever I go over some uneven bumps at low speed. The vibration can also be felt through the steering wheel. Moreover, unlike some of the other posts that I have read, mine does still vibrate and knock during braking. But strangely, whenever I am turning left or right at low speed, the noise and vibration coming into the cabin simply disappear completely and cannot be felt. I have done my searching here and there and it is leading me to the front anti-roll bar drop links or the control arms. But, since the last symptom of my car is slightly different to most posts I have read. Would any kind soul please point me in the right direction in how to tackle this problem. The Geo is completely fine and all 4 tires are wearing very evenly with the inner sides wearing a tiny bit more. Many thanks

Hi Sunnyside, Thank you for your insightful reply again. Really appreciated. You saved me from losing sleep over the gearbox. I am going to bring the car to the indy after a week's worth of driving after the aft change. Having driven it hard and soft for a couple of days, I experienced only smooth and slick gear changes. The question is, where to look for the Adaption Values in the TCU? Is it stored under the menu of Tiptronic on a PIWIS 1? I will be posting those values once I get them. Finger crossed until then.

Hi Sunnyside, Thanks for posting the pdf!! It is great!! The indy deleted both the codes in the Tiptronic / TCU, ECU (is this also named as DME?) on his PWIS. I am going to take the car back in a few days to have another scan to see if any problem is still present. Hopefully nothing will be left. Thank you very much for your help and I wish you enjoy your lovely TT and may it be as healthy as new! James

Right you are, Sunnyside. I have good news, just got the car back and went for a test drive. The car is back to normal again with up-hill starts and successful full throttle gear changes in any gear. Gear changes are now silky smooth and quick as it was. The indy said only 3.5 liters of ATF fluid came out of the gearbox during the change and they managed to fill 5.5L back in. Is there anything that I should now watch out for about the gearbox and other parts of the car before it goes wrong? Have I overlooked something from the fault codes? Really appreciate for all the help!!! James

I would like to add that the Indy said the old ATF fluid still looks reasonably well do not smell burnt, acrid or bad in any way and that there were very minimal deposits. So, now new ATF filter n fluid are going in. Ps the leak only happens at the oil pan gasket. And that only 3-3.5L of old ATF fluid were able to be extracted from the gearbox. Is the car being fixed the way it should? James

Thanks loren fir your reply!! Omg, so many possible faults. the indy is only doing the aft and filter change for me at the moment. Is there anything else i should ask him to replace while we are at it? James

Read from durametric, car feels v sluggish and refuses to drive in speed below 10mph. Once it goes up to around 20mph or so it drives fine and not sluggish. DME P0102 hot film maf P0701 tip gear impulsable, transmission slip P0715 tip supply voltage, speed sensor Tiptronic 14 speed comparison between n2 and n3 implausible 50 impermissible transmission ratio 5525 Torque transfer disturbed at times My Indy thinks the above are caused by my bad maf and low ATF level. Please advise what these codes are suggesting. Thank you v much!! James

Thank you again for your reply!! My indy has durametic and I am going to share my codes and pics of the aft fluid n the pan once they are taken off. Does changing the oil pump casing require stripping down the gearbox or can it be done without extensive labor? Appreciated for your post 

How do I make sure my local indi specialist will scan thereadings of TCU and DME? Thks James

Hi Frank, Thank you very much for your insightful reply. You have educated me with knowledge that I really need at this moment. Your help is really appreciated!! :notworthy: Having read your descriptions, I think my slip is not likely to be type 1 or 2 because there wasn't any increase in engine speed when I change up or down between 3rd-5th gears in normal driving (without boost). The slight increase in engine speed only happens in 2nd to 3rd at around 2800-3000 rpm. It used to change a few hundred rpm earlier than that. I will post here to share my fault codes and I am sure you are right that there will surely be some. Once again, thank you for your big help and I have definitely learnt a lot today. My conclusion is of course biased because that is my car. But, anyway, I will be bringing it to the garage and I really hope she is going to make a full recovery so that I can spend more time with her in this coming year. James

I just checked with my tune. Torque should be under 550 ft lbs. I also read that the 1st and 2nd gear clutch are together in one pack and while 3rd is the weakest link due to it being in one pack on its own. When you say it is going to slip in 3rd, do you mean I should find slip in 3rd while accelerating or trying to shift from 3rd to 4th? The problem is that I am getting slip while i was in 2nd trying to accelerate. It simply slipped before speed was built up in 2nd gear. I got the only slip in my 1st attempt in hitting any boost that night. What logical guess can you think of? Thank you very much for your help!! James

I should have mentioned that my car is running UMZ tune, DV and 200 cell RPI exhaust at around 500 bhp. How should I check if the problem is fixed or not after reading the code and atf and filter change without risking the gearbox? A big thank you for your post again!! James

Hi Sunnyside, I really hope it is just a sign of low oil and you are being very logical with the codes that will show up as cross referenced. I am going to let the local indi specialist to scan the codes and change the ATF and filter next Tuesday. Frankly, it only slipped once before I drove the car 5 miles home and parked it there ever since. Would my clutch parks have slipped excessively and caused some damage already? Can the Durametric read Tip's ATF temperature during the AFT & filter change? Also, my local indy is suggesting to use Mercedes Benz ATF and filter. Is that a bad idea? What is the best ATF for my 2000 996 TT Tip? Thanks a lot for your post! James

Hi, Any help would be greatly appreciated. 2000 996TT Tip with 38000 miles on the clock and it has been dripping a few drops on the floor every month. Due to the minor leakage, I left it untouched and strangely, it stopped completely since 3 months ago. And I was running her fine with zero problem until a few days ago. On top of the leakage, my maf is also on its way out. I have cleaned it a couple of times and it had always helped but the slow throttle response and abs & psm light still come on once every 2-3 months. So, now, let me describe the problem with my Tip box. As I was giving it the full beans in 2nd gear last Sunday, it failed to shift from 2nd to 3rd and slippage was felt because the boost and the power was there. The power just wasnt transferred to the wheels. The 4th gear light and the d light were flashing right after that and the warning Tiptronic Emergency Run was shown on the dash. I drove it home gently, just a 3 miles drive and weirdly it drove like it had zero problem and it went through each gear just as healthily and smoothly as before. Except on one hill start moment, the power again felt like it wasnt being transferred to the wheels as well as before. And, I have not driven the car since then. Having downloaded and read the procedures of the aft and filter change in the Porsche Workshop Manual online, I am suspecting it could just be a lack of aft fluid and a plugged filter causing the slip while the maf causing the Tip Emergency Run light. What do you boys think? I would appreciate it if you could share your advice. James

That's just so reassuring to hear. Thank you for all the support and RennTech.

I have an update for every one. As of today, I have changed to a new AOS unit. After driving for about 30 miles on various types of speeds and roads, the smoke has completely gone away. Furthermore, the car drives perfectly with no strange noise, loss of oil, power, rough idle and etc. I'd say it feels just like new. But, to be honest, I'm still haunted by the thick smoke incident only a couple of days ago. Is there a way that I can make sure my car has only got a faulty AOS unit and not a cracked head problem?

Thanks Jake for chiming in with your wealth of experiences. No CEL, no coolant mixed with oil, no overheating. The white smoke I got lasted quite for quite a while in the air. To me, it stayed in the air much longer than vapor. It didn’t smell intrusive like the coolant I had smelt on another car. Instead, it smelt a bit like some very fine tobacco. What I also found was the steam seemed to have left some oil residual on my rear apron under the rear bumper. Is this oily smoke that you are talking about?

As soon as I got home today, I checked and made sure there were no engine oil droplets in the coolant before I opened the engine cover and unpluged the Y-shaped hose connecting between the AOS and the tubing to the throttle body only to find some drops of oil present. So, I used a wooden cock to plug the hole on the throttle body side and placed a rag on the opened AOS end. Immediately, the car idled smoothly without increased idling rev. The engine now revs with power and on longer consume any engine oil. I drove around the carpark at slow speed for about 15 mins to allow all the oil that was sucked into the engine to be burnt off along with the white smoke. After about 20 mins, the engine reached normal operating temperature and all the smoke was completely gone. Am I right in thinking that all I have is an AOS problem and not a cracked head or anything serious? I have already ordered a revised AOS from P.centre and it will be fitted by an independent garage tomorrow. Am I doing the right thing? Are there any other maintenance jobs that I should do while I am at it? Thanks a lot every one and RennTech

Hi Maurice, Thank you for your reply and nice to meet you. I will try that as soon as I get home tonight. I am keeping my fingers crossed until then. With a serious amount of effort to open the oil filler cap, but it can still be opened, right? How long do I have to idle the engine before trying to open the cap? Would mixing oil viscosities on Mobil 1 be a good thing for hot weather? Best regards, Boris

Thank you for the replies guys. I sincerely hope that it is AOS. I did a search on AOS last night and spent an hour or so reading it. My car did not throw a single CEL light. And it does not only smoke during start up. Instead, it is smoking almost most of the time except when the car was on the highway doing over 60mph. As soon as the car had to be slowed down at a junction, the smoke became awfully large and alarming. To be honest, engine oil was filled up a touch too much. Now, the electronic oil measurement on the dash is showing 1 box less than full. Any ideas guys? I plan to open up the engine the cover tonight when I get home and see if the throttle bodies and the hoses involved are full of oil. One more thing, due to the local temp here can reach as high as 35deg, I poured in 6 quarts of Mobil 1 0-40 and 4 quarts of 15-50. Will this be the problem?

I have owned my Boxster for less than a year. The car has roughly 30000 miles on it Oil and genuine filter change every 3000 miles with Mobil 0-40 Car is completely stock, always warmed up before rev over 4k rpm, never rev past redline Symptoms of mmy 2003 2.7 Boxster Tip (In chronological order) 1. Rough idle, higher than normal engine rev at idle 2. Huge amount of Continuous, Steamy White smoke from exhaust while driving (like smoke grenade) 2. No overheat after limping 6 miles home, coolant stayed around 82-3 C, No CELs 3. Loss of 0.5 L engine oil 4. No engine oil or coolant on the garage floor 5. Loss of power with some occasional ticking sound. Thanks Please help to diagnose the potential problem as it doesnt look like a AOS.

Hi MG88 and Loren, Thanks for the replies. However, I heard the fan(s) near the intake just behind the passenger's door ran for a brief minute or so. That was when I had the key removed from the car, door closed but car still unlocked. Well, the problem seems to have gone now and only comes back if i park in an enclosed underground carpark with very poor ventilation. Otherwise, there is usually absolutely no problem with the car. On the other hand, how may I test if the car is producing all the power it should? I tested the 0-60mph using an accelerometer and the average is around 7.2 secs. What is the avg of 0-60 and 0-400m on a 2003 2.7 Boxster? Thank you very much again for your help. Guy From the service manual... "Switch-on conditions for engine compartment fan (this fan pulls air into the engine compartment) The engine compartment fan is switched on when the engine compartment temperature is > 176 degrees F or the coolant temperature is > 216 degrees F. After-running of engine compartment fan If the ignition is switched off and the engine compartment temperature is more than 140 degrees F, the DME control module remains in readiness for another 20 minutes. During this time, the engine compartment temperature is retrieved every 10 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is > 185 degrees F , the engine compartment fan is switched on for 20 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is still > 185 degrees F after this time, the fan remains on for a further 30 seconds." You might check to see if your engine compartment temperature sensor has come out of it's holder and is laying on the engine. Here are some pics (in the post) from a Carrera that had that problem (Boxster is the same as I recall). http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=35812 Hi Loren, Thank you for getting back to me so quickly and your help is purely accurate and informative. I am definitely goinig to get my hands dirty this weekend to see if the engine compartment temp sensor has come out of it's holder. Will be posting back to share the result. Change of topic, the convertible roof has become noiser over time giving me those high pitched "ekk" "ikk" "erk" sounds. However, there is absolutely no noise when the roof is down. Therefore, I suspect most of the noise is coming from the roof frabic, above the engine cover, near where the rear window sits. Could it be the roof rack hitting the roof frabic that is cause the low but annoying noise? Many thanks again Guy

Hi MG88 and Loren, Thanks for the replies. However, I heard the fan(s) near the intake just behind the passenger's door ran for a brief minute or so. That was when I had the key removed from the car, door closed but car still unlocked. Well, the problem seems to have gone now and only comes back if i park in an enclosed underground carpark with very poor ventilation. Otherwise, there is usually absolutely no problem with the car. On the other hand, how may I test if the car is producing all the power it should? I tested the 0-60mph using an accelerometer and the average is around 7.2 secs. What is the avg of 0-60 and 0-400m on a 2003 2.7 Boxster? Thank you very much again for your help. Guy

Hi MG88, Loren and rockymount1, After reading this post, I find what a co-incident that the symptoms are exactly the same on my 2002 2.7 Tip. So, if I am patient enough to wait for a few mintues, the car would start and run perfectly normal without any power loss. In addition, I do notice while I was standing around the car in an enclosed garage after a drive, the car did switch on its engine fans for a brief 30 secs or so to cool itself even after the engine was switched off. This does not happen tho if I switch the engine off in open air. I am just wondering what will be my best fix without a Durametric SW? Yet, I do have a ODBII to USB cable that I used to work on my Subaru WRX with OpenECU SW. Can I make use of this cable and possibly get a suitable SW anywhere? Is there a fix before something really big could happen to my tranny? Thanks for your time in advance

Exactly, I have met the seller of this kit in person. It happened that he has a 986 Boxster with this kit fitted. The fitment and finishing are absolutely lousy. For example, the gap between the door and the wheel fender will be so uneven that others will think you have just transformed your wonderful P-car into one of those Porsche-look-alike disgrace. (e.g. MRS -> 986). Furthermore, I could easily see ripples and waves all over the replaced panels. Dont do it is my 2 cents