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LVDell

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Everything posted by LVDell

  1. Sure thing. Thanks again Stefan! I'll comment on the instructions once I get it done and take some pics as well. Cheers, Dell
  2. FYI...prices seem to be a bit more as the link is almost 2 years old (3/06)! :) 996 652 101 10 $12.67 996 652 102 10 $6.78
  3. Stefan, thanks! Looks like it is just plug and play with the 02+ parts I listed above. Just a simple R&R. Below is what they determined from your link........ Parts Needed: You need both the lighted ring and the actual cigarette lighter insert. For some reason the new socket doesn't fit into the old lighted ring even though it looks like it should. 996-652-101-10-A05 Socket $7.88 996-652-102-10 Lighted retaining ring $4.20 To get the old one out: -Pry off the switch panel -Unplug the cigarette lighter plug from the back -Hold the trim ring part while twisting the cigarette lighter cylinder to unhook the tabs -Push the cigarette lighter cylinder out the front of the trim ring (it's pretty tight so you have to push hard) -You can now pull the trim ring out (have to tilt it a little because the light is attached to it Installation is very straightforward. Put the trim ring in, then slide in the cigarette lighter cylinder. Put the electrical plug into the back and snap the whole plate back in.
  4. So looking the the PET it looks like there is listed 2 different lighters: -01 996 652 101 00 02- 996 652 101 10 as well as the socket (called a "headlight unit"...odd) they go into has 2 different ones as well: -01 996 652 102 01 02- 996 652 102 10 Then there is an item listed below it in parens: 996 652 104 00 "tensioning sleeve" Could this be what I am looking for???
  5. Cigarette Lighter R&R required on 99-01's? (the opening is too Just got a XM radio kit for the wife's car and it plugs in via cig lighter but the cig lighter opening is too big. I swear I remember reading that there was an adapter or R&R required for it to work with cig lighter power sources, etc.. It works just fine in the GT3 and it definitely feels that the lighter opening is much tighter. I checked the prongs and the fuse so I know it's not that. Tried a search but no luck. Anybody experience this? FYI....2000 C2CAB. TIA! Author LVDell Category Carrera (996) - Mods Submitted 12/25/2007 08:48 AM
  6. Just got a XM radio kit for the wife's car and it plugs in via cig lighter but the cig lighter opening is too big. I swear I remember reading that there was an adapter or R&R required for it to work with cig lighter power sources, etc.. It works just fine in the GT3 and it definitely feels that the lighter opening is much tighter. I checked the prongs and the fuse so I know it's not that. Tried a search but no luck. Anybody experience this? FYI....2000 C2CAB. TIA!
  7. Thanks Loren! So, would anybody benefit from the GT3 control arms? What about the uppers as well?
  8. Title says it all. Want to know if the REAR control arms (lower and "dog bone" uppers) are the same between a base Carrera and the GT3? The part numbers in the PET do NOT match what is stamped on the parts and it seems the p/n's between 996 and GT3 PET's are same/similar. Reason I ask is that I have removed the control arms from my GT3 (2004) and need to know if they are compatible with the base Carrera if they are the same or not. Would hate to give these to somebody if their car already has them. TIA!
  9. Have since sold the Pepper but IIRC it was extremely easy to do the cabin filter.
  10. two words....sampling bias. speaking as a behavioral scientist that deals with this on a DAILY basis, there is absolutely NO WAY for you to get what you are looking for unless PCNA opens up their database to you. That isn't going to happen.
  11. got it! thanks again Loren :cheers:
  12. ok, so maybe it's not as easy as I thought. I was able to remove it from the harness plug. Now I just have to figure out how to remove the old one form the a/c vent?????
  13. That's too funny! I had no idea. I just got back from the dealer and in fact that was the correct p/n. Now I'm heading into the garage to try and install this sucker.
  14. I think I found it. Just verifying that 99661353500 is the correct p/n. Still doesn't get to the bottom of why it has what appears to be a MB logo and P/N on it. FYI....car is a MY00 C2CAB
  15. I have removed the vent assembly so I could get to the part number for the light switch. I suspect this is the part that is needed since my low beams do NOT illuminate when turned on yet high beams work as do the fogs. Anyway, I looked at the part (#31) and it shows a p/n of 014 545 64 28 which does not pull up. Further it looks as though there is a MB star next to the p/n??????? Any help? TIA! :cheers:
  16. I've got a buddy that broke his timing chain on his low mileage MY99. No mechanical overruns or other abuse. What do we know about the likely causes of this? Is the timing chain and supporting hardware a known weakness of MY99? TIA!
  17. well then, I am definitely stumped. Hopefully somebody else has a suggestion.
  18. not sure that would be the oil separator. I have seen the results of one letting go and that is not what it looks like. When was you last oil change? What does your oil level read first thing in the morning with all the oil drained into the sump?
  19. Cut it any way you want, but OEM is NOT aftermarket regardless if it is the SAME manufacturer. You have to be careful with your terminology especially if you ever sell anything part-wise and tell somebody it is OEM and then send them an aftermarket part only to have to hear an earful from a pissed off customer.
  20. SACHS is aftermarket. OEM means Genuine Porsche Parts with a PCNA part number
  21. agree that the mechanic is trying to make some extra cash. yes you can get a clutch kit for $300 if you go aftermarket. I should have clarified I was talking about OEM.
  22. dude, go get your car and drive away FAST! do you understand that the warranty would have taken care of the motor mount AND the clutch/RMS? i'm not sure if it would have covered the rotors as they are a wear-and-tear item, but i will bet that at 27K miles, they did not need to be replaced to begin with. a new clutch kit (with ALL clutch parts) is about $300! and of course it is covered under warranty. clutches should not be failing at 27K miles. my original clutch is at 116K miles now. if you have paid him $1700, chalk it up to a learning experience, because you got taken - and BAD! You can go through a clutch in a weekend or you can have it for 200K miles. It is all about YMMV so there is NO WAY to make a blanket statement about clutch life (or as you stated failure). As for the clutch costing only $300, you must have some serious connections to grab one at that price. Either that or it is not a complete clutch kit.
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