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Roger duRand

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  • Posts

    9
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About Roger duRand

  • Birthday 06/02/1943

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  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Boxster lore and owner tips

Profile Fields

  • From
    Omaha, NE
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1997 boxster 986
  • Former cars
    1960 Austin Healy 100-6 BN7
    1971 DeTomaso Pantera
    1997 Range Rover LWB

Roger duRand's Achievements

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  1. 1997 986 VIN: WP0CA2986VS620460 74K miles 'Check Engine' light came on, dealer noted code for VVT (Variable Valve Timing) actuator, seemed to think it no big deal, deleted code and suggested I drive normally, and see if it lit up again. After 75 miles or so, it did. Replaced bank 1 actuator, gasket, o-rings, test drove for 10 miles, and gave me the car ($1,460). Three blocks from the dealer, 'Check Engine' light is on. Diagnosis: chain tensioner is stuck/broken. Actuator probably not the problem. New Tensioner ordered ($900+-!) What do you think might be a fair adjusted total cost after completing this work? I do trust my dealer-- and I get new Porsche 'loaners' while mine is repaired. Any similar experiences?
  2. Falcon-- What do you mean 'design limits around 90 miles'?
  3. Well those pics of the old vs new IMS was due to me dropping in a 55K miles 2.5L in a 92K mile 2.5L that had an IMS failure. So YMMV, but I've seen up close and personal a 92K mile failure. Mike Mike-- Sincere condolences! Just curious: what were the conditions at failure? Hard to believe the anecdotes of it occuring at idle! RdR I bought the car with the IMS already gone -- so I really don't know. I think a different poster (maybe named Mike) had one fail at idle. We have not taken the engine that failed apart yet to see the internals -- but the oil pan and filter were filled with metal sludge and specks/shards. I'm sure when we do start pulling it apart -- it won't be pretty. mike Anyone concerned with the IMS issue (who isn't!) should go to the excellent LN Engineering website: lnengineering.com. Some very capable guys have deeply explored the subject and engineered what, I am convinced, is a really good remedy. After reading their clear and complete exposition, you should have an understanding of the various factors contributing to these IMS failures. As discussed in this forum, heat does seem to play a role in the rapid deterioration of the OEM inferior steel surfaces. Insufficient lubrication by the "lifetime" sealed grease, or by low viscosity crankcase oil (if IMS seal is removed), contribute to the problem. I was glad to finally get an answer to my query as to the effect of high revs on the likelihood of eventual failure, and to my surprise, it seems that raced engines have a markedly smaller number of problems with the IMS due to the creation of a more protective film of lubricant formed at higher revs. GOOD NEWS for spirited drivers! 'Garage queens' are more likely to experience failure, yes, even at idle! The early single bearing, the subsequent double-race bearing, and the later beefier single all are prone to fail if the steel balls and races succumb to surface pitting, which seems to exacerbate itself, once formed. It seems that stress from unbalance or rotation speed are NOT an issue, nor are early chain-driven shafts compared to later gear-driven ones. The LN retrofit utilizes ceramic surfaces to radically increase wearability and longevity of the bearing. If you are having qualms about your particular car based on history, mileage, or driving style, I would suggest doing the preventative retrofit for cars out of warranty. It looks like about $1000 in all--- if you can find the right shop. Additionally, install a 160-degree thermostat (will run 180+-), switch to heavier synthetic oil, and rev it up! Hope this is helpful-- do CHECK OUT THE LN SITE. Regards, Roger Also MUST SEE: Jake Raby's site flat6innovations.com for the most comprehensive info on our engines.
  4. Well those pics of the old vs new IMS was due to me dropping in a 55K miles 2.5L in a 92K mile 2.5L that had an IMS failure. So YMMV, but I've seen up close and personal a 92K mile failure. Mike Mike-- Sincere condolences! Just curious: what were the conditions at failure? Hard to believe the anecdotes of it occuring at idle! RdR I bought the car with the IMS already gone -- so I really don't know. I think a different poster (maybe named Mike) had one fail at idle. We have not taken the engine that failed apart yet to see the internals -- but the oil pan and filter were filled with metal sludge and specks/shards. I'm sure when we do start pulling it apart -- it won't be pretty. mike Anyone concerned with the IMS issue (who isn't!) should go to the excellent LN Engineering website: lnengineering.com. Some very capable guys have deeply explored the subject and engineered what, I am convinced, is a really good remedy. After reading their clear and complete exposition, you should have an understanding of the various factors contributing to these IMS failures. As discussed in this forum, heat does seem to play a role in the rapid deterioration of the OEM inferior steel surfaces. Insufficient lubrication by the "lifetime" sealed grease, or by low viscosity crankcase oil (if IMS seal is removed), contribute to the problem. I was glad to finally get an answer to my query as to the effect of high revs on the likelihood of eventual failure, and to my surprise, it seems that raced engines have a markedly smaller number of problems with the IMS due to the creation of a more protective film of lubricant formed at higher revs. GOOD NEWS for spirited drivers! 'Garage queens' are more likely to experience failure, yes, even at idle! The early single bearing, the subsequent double-race bearing, and the later beefier single all are prone to fail if the steel balls and races succumb to surface pitting, which seems to exacerbate itself, once formed. It seems that stress from unbalance or rotation speed are NOT an issue, nor are early chain-driven shafts compared to later gear-driven ones. The LN retrofit utilizes ceramic surfaces to radically increase wearability and longevity of the bearing. If you are having qualms about your particular car based on history, mileage, or driving style, I would suggest doing the preventative retrofit for cars out of warranty. It looks like about $1000 in all--- if you can find the right shop. Additionally, install a 160-degree thermostat (will run 180+-), switch to heavier synthetic oil, and rev it up! Hope this is helpful-- do CHECK OUT THE LN SITE. Regards, Roger
  5. Well those pics of the old vs new IMS was due to me dropping in a 55K miles 2.5L in a 92K mile 2.5L that had an IMS failure. So YMMV, but I've seen up close and personal a 92K mile failure. Mike Mike-- Sincere condolences! Just curious: what were the conditions at failure? Hard to believe the anecdotes of it occuring at idle! RdR
  6. Hi Roger, Just like you, I was worried about the IMS failure, so I recently upgraded to the LN Engineering IMS retrofit kit. However, I must say that the old bearing (single row) in my car (2002 Targa, 70K Miles) seemed just fine, it was not worn at all and there was no play in it whatsoever. I also keep hearing that if your car made it to 70K miles, you should be fine. Finally, it amazes me to only hear people reporting IMS failures at idle or low revs. It almost seems as though the harder you drive that engine, the better it is for it, within limits ;-) Peter Thanks, Peter, I, also, tend to think that if it will happen, it will happen earlier rather than later. Failures at 92K like Mike's must be quite rare. Wish there were better statistics available! Maybe I should "drive it like I stole it" and start putting money in a crate motor fund in case I'm unlucky! Regards RdR
  7. Hi all--- I have the original '97 986--one of the first in the country, I think---VIN: WPOCA2986VS620460 with 72K miles and have never had a mechanical problem. Of course the convertible top mechanism self-destructed at 20K, and through several repairs and updated parts is now OK. Car has been maintained to near-showroom and dealer serviced---not a drop of oil dripped or burned. Is there hard data regarding a relationship between IMS failure and any of the following factors: Mileage / Age / Occasional or sustained high revs / Single or double bearing design (which does mine have?) or any other observed anecdotal relationship? I rarely exceed 5,000 RPM---never redline---out of caution, but I would like to use this car to its full potential with a clear conscience! After 13 years of collective experience with the 986, one would expect a significant collection and interpretation of this sort of data---or is it still a crapshoot? Anybody? Thanks! Roger duRand pca Great Plains Region
  8. Hello, all--First post! My 1997 silver Boxster (currently in the shop for more convertible top troubles, re-paint and clear bra for front bumper-cover, and another set of P-Zero Rossos) has what I suspect may be a known problem with the headlights: The inner glass lenses have cracked directly in front of the lamps, and an ugly yellow-brown substance has gradually appeared around the cracks. My dealer,Woodhouse Porsche of Omaha (good people), informs me that the only recourse is to replace the entire assemblies at a cost of US$700 each. I really love this car and keep it showroom fresh (with 68,000 miles on the clock!), as well as possible, so this defect makes me crazy. I don't find any TSBs on this issue. I think that this is a result of an original design flaw, and that Porsche should be responsible for rectifying the situation. I do always drive with low beams on in daytime for defense, and it does get hot here in summer, but this obviously should not occur. I have always replaced lamps at the dealer with (I assume) OEM. Of course I will bite the bullet if I have to, to bring the car back to perfect, but I wonder if any of you have solved this problem in a more satisfactory way. What is the proper avenue to contact the right guy at Porsche to work with me? As plan 'B': do any of you have a salvage pair in PERFECT condition--latest manufacture that still fits this car--amber or clear signal lenses--that you might take US$400 for? Thanks in advance for your input! Roger duRand
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