PTEC

That bracket is indeed for lifting the engine. As for the nuts welded on the bracket, the one that is up and down is for the vent tube for the tiptronic transmission and the one that lays down on its side is for the resonance box on some boxster intakes.

Well since it seems you're only having problems with going into second, I would guess your second gear syncho teeth are worn along with the syncro guide sleeve for first and second. The good news is parts are now available to fix these (in the US at least) so you wont need a new whole new gear box. You're probably going to have to remove the gearbox and inspect the clutch and if everything is good there inspect the gearset.

For what its worth, the last time I saw this problem it was a shredded second gear.

Hi, are you saying sycros can be replaced without a complete rebuild? My second is shot, 3rd is weak and first (status unknown) I couldn’t care less about.

Did you imply this could be done with just the gear box removed?? DYI?? (I’m pretty seasoned…rebuilt around 12 motors in my life including a 928) Or $$$ guesstimate?

Aside from grinding 2nd without dbl clutching, and a bit of grinding in 3rd nothing howls, clutch works fine etc. Pretty low miles to boot.

What’s the minimum you think I could get away with?

Regards, PK

... It seems like usually by the time you experience a problem the damage is already done so I would bet you're in for more than just the synchros. There is likely damage to the synchro teeth on your gears and if you have to replace the loose gear wheels for first and second, Porsche requires replacement of the corresponding fixed gears if the milage is above something around 15k. So I would guess you're in for replacing first, second, the entire synchro assembly and if you wanted to comply with the Porsche's guidelines, the input shaft. ...

You can remove only the gearbox by itself, so the engine can stay in the car. ...pretty much impossible to do DYI due to all of the special press tools needed. I think if you want to save money on this you would be better off removing the gearbox yourself and then taking it to the dealer.

Hello,

Thanks for your reply, finding someone who’s got there hands dirty in a gear box is just the person I wanted to. I’ve done lots of motors, never a trans.

Isn’t the damage just the replaceable synchros most of the time?

I’ve Haven’t really been cramming the thing into gear. Doing my best double clutching I can usually get it into second with minimal or no gnashing, 3rd only grinds with a high rev. fast shift. (there’s no howls and the like) How likely Is it that I’ve damaged more than the synchros?

If you talk me out of DIYing it, I’d probably be taking it to an competent indi. shop I use. I’m a bit critical about dealerships in general and specifically Porsche, I think they overcharge and over prescribe, not to mention the fact that the a large percentage of a dealers profit comes from the service bays’

That would be nice, do you mean just the gear box or the whole transaxle assem?

I’ve access to a 20 ton press and a Lath and mill to fabricate tools, but if that’s a hug program in it self…I’d probably pass.

How do you feel about junkyard Trans? There’s several on Ebay (from a yard I trust) for $1500,supposedly with 37k miles, Their guaranteed for 3 months. If it’s good for 3 months, driven modestly and not often, any idea the likely the useful life expectancy?

Thanks, PK

You really never know the extent of the damage until you have a look for yourself. When you hear the grinding noise its not the synchro rings making the noise, its the guide sleeve of the synchro assembly and the synchro teeth on the gear wheel that are grinding each other. When these teeth get rounded off you have all sorts of problems. Say the synchro teeth on the second gear wheel were rounded, you could put a whole new synchro and rings in and you would still grind and likely jump out of gear too. I would say at this point its pretty likely there is more damage than just the synchro, but hey I lost my X ray glasses so you really need to tear the cover off and inspect it to know for sure.

I think you have your terminology a bit skewed, the gearbox is the transaxle. They are one and the same in rear/mid engined Porsches. Also dealer profits come from selling cars and selling parts. Actual profits from repair work performed is smaller than you think. Dealership service overhead is huge. Actually the entire "service" side of the business is looked upon as a necessary nuisance. The main reason dealers have service departments is because you cant sell cars without having a place to fix the inevitable broken ones.

A junkyard gearbox is definitely an option. Theres no real way to give any reasonable estimate on life expectancy on a junkyard box. You have no idea whats inside or whose been rowing the gears for the last 37k miles. As for myself the cost savings wouldn't be worth the lost peace of mind. On the last G86.20 I rebuilt there was a bit over 2 grand in parts (mostly because its needed a new input shaft). A brand new G86.20 with full Porsche parts warranty (2 years/unlimited mileage) was 4400. So yeah the junkyard box is an option but its rolling the dice for sure.

If you want to test the front trunk microswitch, pop open the trunk and try to arm the immobilizer. If it arms without beeping the horn that will tell you if you're front trunk microswitch is stuck in the closed position. If the alarm beeps at you that will tell you to look else where.

The pressure plate is a special construction with a automatic adjusting system witch compensate the thickness off the clutch plate during his live, to maintain the biting point at the same possition, worn or new. It is not possible to reset the pressure plate what means that the pressure plate and the clutch plate have to be changed as a unit ( 997 - 987 )

Perhaps that you find out the problem in this area, the biting point is approx. 1/4 travel. Slave or other cylinders have nothing to do with clutch slip.

Regards.

This is actually only featured on the 997S. His 987 clutch is the same style as the 986 ones. Either way if it really isn't grabbing until your foot is practically off the pedal it sounds like there is a problem. A high bite point and or a stiff pedal are the two signs of a worn clutch and its completely possible for the previous owner to have worn it out in 3000 miles. However there are other causes for a high bite point (hydraulic) as other people have mentioned. If you take it in for service they should be able to tell you pretty soon if you have a problem or not as the service guys drive the cars all day long so they know what the normal feel is.

Well since it seems you're only having problems with going into second, I would guess your second gear syncho teeth are worn along with the syncro guide sleeve for first and second. The good news is parts are now available to fix these (in the US at least) so you wont need a new whole new gear box. You're probably going to have to remove the gearbox and inspect the clutch and if everything is good there inspect the gearset.

For what its worth, the last time I saw this problem it was a shredded second gear.

Hi, are you saying sycros can be replaced without a complete rebuild? My second is shot, 3rd is weak and first (status unknown) I couldn’t care less about.

Did you imply this could be done with just the gear box removed?? DYI?? (I’m pretty seasoned…rebuilt around 12 motors in my life including a 928) Or $$$ guesstimate?

Aside from grinding 2nd without dbl clutching, and a bit of grinding in 3rd nothing howls, clutch works fine etc. Pretty low miles to boot.

What’s the minimum you think I could get away with?

Regards, PK

Technically yes the synchro parts can be replaced individually. Whether or not you could get away with that depends on what you find when you open the gearbox up and inspect. It seems like usually by the time you experience a problem the damage is already done so I would bet you're in for more than just the synchros. There is likely damage to the synchro teeth on your gears and if you have to replace the loose gear wheels for first and second, Porsche requires replacement of the corresponding fixed gears if the milage is above something around 15k. So I would guess you're in for replacing first, second, the entire synchro assembly and if you wanted to comply with the Porsche's guidelines, the input shaft. Thats not taking into account whatever you find wrong with third.

You can remove only the gearbox by itself, so the engine can stay in the car. I'm actually not familiar with rebuilding G86.01 boxes, I've only ever rebuilt the G86.20s. It would be a serious DYI. I know the G86.20 box would be pretty much impossible to do DYI due to all of the special press tools needed. I think if you want to save money on this you would be better off removing the gearbox yourself and then taking it to the dealer.

Well since it seems you're only having problems with going into second, I would guess your second gear syncho teeth are worn along with the syncro guide sleeve for first and second. The good news is parts are now available to fix these (in the US at least) so you wont need a new whole new gear box. You're probably going to have to remove the gearbox and inspect the clutch and if everything is good there inspect the gearset.

For what its worth, the last time I saw this problem it was a shredded second gear.

Looks cool but unless you have a clear engine cover or something of the sort why go through all the trouble? No one except you will ever know its painted.

Uhm that button isn't supposed to open anything. Its not like the button on the remote where you hold it down and pops open the glass. The button only unlocks the rear glass, you still have to walk to the rear and open it from there. The whole existence of that button doesn't make much sense.

I love seeing these, thanks for posting.

A faulty in the lock mechanism built in switch is most common.

This guy told you your problem a month ago. When the symptoms you're describing pop up, its almost always the door lock unit. The only other thing I have seen cause this is window motor, but that was one time.

Have you ever pulled either inner or outer door handle out just enough to make the window drop but not open the door? It drops then goes right back up right? Sound familiar? Heres whats happening.

There is a micro switch for the outer door handle and another micro switch for the inner door handle. It looks like you bought and replaced the outer door handle micro switch. The inner door handle micro switch is on the door panel, you had disconnect it when you took the door panel off. They're located in different spots but they serve the same purpose. When these are triggered it sends a signal to the alarm control unit to lower the door glass because it thinks the door is about to open. The wild card here is a micro switch inside the door lock unit that tells the alarm control unit if the door is open or shut. This micro switch works in tandem with the door handle micro switches. If a door handle is pulled and the micro switch inside the door lock is saying the door is open, then the window will stay down, but if it says the door is closed the window goes right back up. The micro switch inside the door lock sticking in the closed position is a common failure and will cause the exact problem you're having. So in a nutshell, the control unit knows full and well you pulled the door handle, but it still thinks the door is closed.

The part you want is shown as #14 on page 220 of the PET catalog someone already gave a link to. There are a lot of different part number for different options so be careful when you order it. IIRC, this part is around 400 bucks.

Does the noise sound like when you blow across the top of a beer bottle? If so, it sounds like a car that I saw a while back. It ended up being one of the ORVR valves was stuck open but I cant remember for the life of me which one (a lot of help, huh). This was on a US car so I don't know if the emissions set up is similar to Japanese cars but the faulty valve was located in the passenger fender well in the vicinity of the head light.

I should note that this car didn't have a check engine light or any DME faults, just the odd noise, so you likely have two separate problems. Judging by your RKATs though, the most common cause for that would be a MAF on the way out.

Hi all,

I noticed that when I lock my doors with my key the red light on the lock switch inside the car blinks 12 times (I think it blinks 12 times, it might be more or less). I looked in the manual but I saw no reference to what that means - does anyone know? I don't have keyless remotes and I don't think the car is equipped with an alarm system either.

BTW, it is an MY98

Thanks!

As far as I know all US cars came with the same immobilizer system from the factory. I believe its option M535 which is with remotes and alarm.

Most common cause of both lights not coming on is the head light switch. Since you have two cars lying around, try pulling the headlight switch from the targa using it in the turbo. Ill bet thats your problem.

The 996 folding top is hydraulically actuated, so the stretched cable problem like the 993 and boxsters have isn't an issue. The lid for the folding top is actuated by cables but these very rarely have problems. Pretty much the only maintenance that needs to be done is to make sure the hydraulic fluid level for the top is at the correct level. If it gets too low the top runs very slowly and noisily.

Try adding a can of Refrigerant 134A from an auto parts store until you can do the proper fix, they sell a short hose just to be used with these

cans that connects to the low pressure side of the AC system lines.

I had heard it's a good idea to 'recharge' an R-134a system even if there is no problem. Also if you use one of these, how can one adjust the pressure/know the pressure needed so that it doesn't exceed the max pressure in the A/C system?

Does anyone know about this?

I definitely would not charge an ac system that is working properly. In order to achieve maximum cooling there needs to be a certain amount of refrigerant and having too much can cause just as many problems as having not enough.

This fault almost always means a dying cat. You can try switching your oxygen sensors from side to side and seeing if the fault changes but Im guessing you've got a dying cat. If you live in the US I believe cats are covered for 8 years 80,000 miles under the federal emissions warranty.

I'm pretty sure than ANY fault in the DME will cause you to fail emissions.

If this was a 986 I would also say the intermediate shaft. On the 986 Porsche went from a double to a single bearing that supports the end of the shaft. The bearing would fail. The intermediate shaft bearing support has a nut on the end. This would then shear off leaving a hole in the back of the engine for oil to dump on the ground. But once in a while the nut would shear off and the damage and oil dumping did not occur immediately.

This issue was supposedly resolved with the 987. I have not heard of an intermediate shaft failure on a 987.

I don't know if the issue is completely resolved or not but the intermediate shaft has been redesigned. I cant say when exactly it was introduced or give an engine number range but the new style is very easy to recognize as the nut on the end is now something like a 24mm instead of the old 13mm. Anyhow pretty much all of the 05 and early 06s still have the old style shaft so 9x7's are still very susceptible to failure. For what its worth I have not seen a new style intermediate shaft fail, or leak for that matter.

I there anyway to tell if/when the 987 engine began using the 'new design'? BTW I have a base my06

Ill say again, I cant say when exactly it was introduced or give an engine number range for the new style engines. I have never seen any information on this from Porsche or from any other source. What I can say for sure is that the reman engines from Porsche started coming with the new shaft in late 05/early 06 IIRC, and the engines they were replacing definitely did not have the new shaft. I wouldnt take the news as time to panic. There are still a ton of 9x6 cars still running around with the old design with no problems. Its not a kiss of death by any means.

I can't see how removing and installing the engine would have any effect at all on shifting. The factory service manual does not require adjustment after the engine is removed. As long as the cables are clipped into place and were correctly rerouted after the engine was reinstalled there should be no change at all.

As far as actually adjusting the the linkage you need a special tool which is available from the dealer for fairly cheap. Adjustment requires rear center console removal but the whole process is rather easy.

If this was a 986 I would also say the intermediate shaft. On the 986 Porsche went from a double to a single bearing that supports the end of the shaft. The bearing would fail. The intermediate shaft bearing support has a nut on the end. This would then shear off leaving a hole in the back of the engine for oil to dump on the ground. But once in a while the nut would shear off and the damage and oil dumping did not occur immediately.

This issue was supposedly resolved with the 987. I have not heard of an intermediate shaft failure on a 987.

I don't know if the issue is completely resolved or not but the intermediate shaft has been redesigned. I cant say when exactly it was introduced or give an engine number range but the new style is very easy to recognize as the nut on the end is now something like a 24mm instead of the old 13mm. Anyhow pretty much all of the 05 and early 06s still have the old style shaft so 9x7's are still very susceptible to failure. For what its worth I have not seen a new style intermediate shaft fail, or leak for that matter.

What part of town were you driving in where they got you with laser? I've always been under the impression they use laser mostly in the city. Anyone got any good sources on that? I've got a V1 and I swear by it, its saved me countless times when I'm out in the middle of where doing 25 over. I usually don't speed in the city (well, 10-15 over max) and I always thought I could avoid the laser in the city.

Black cap? The correct cap is blue. I would buy the right cap from the dealer and try running that for a while.

You're not going to see it from below. Open the engine compartment cover and have a look, it wont cost you a dime.

I would definitely have a PPI done on it, without a doubt. Personally I would take it to a dealership.

Replacement of the hook cover is really easy. If you look at the picture above of the hook, the two arrows point to where you want to put glue. The area at the top where it shows a 90 degree arc is where you cut the new piece so you can install it on your latch.

I dont know however if this will replace your original problem.