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PTEC

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Everything posted by PTEC

  1. 12A2 generally means it needs an oil separator. On the passenger side on the back of your valve cover there is a small hole about 2-3mm in diameter. If you feel vacuum at that hole your oil separator has failed and is causing a vacuum leak.
  2. This is an old post but I can tell you for sure that you will need new maps to update your PCM to from 1.47 to anything newer. I have first hand experience with this.
  3. Just to reiterate what loren has said there really is no way to do the job without having the engine suspended from the body and the front axle sub-frame removed. The mounts sit down in little cups on the engine carrier and they have a stud that goes up through the brackets bolted to either side of the engine. Unfortunately this is really not a shade tree mechanic job at all on the V8 engines. Now the vr6 is a different story.
  4. This is very likely the result of the cam adjuster failure. I almost guarantee that the side you're getting the cat efficiency fault on is the side that the cam adjuster failed on. When the adjuster fails it pushes all kinds of fuel and oil into the cat in some cases (albeit fairly rare cases) and fatally damages the cat. Hopefully you're still under 7 years/70,000 miles and get covered under federal emissions warranty and if you aren't hopefully you have a good relationship with you dealer and they can push for coverage through Porsche. Whoops just reread your original post and noticed you didn't have a failure, you just had the campaign completed. In that case the cat is probably just bad. Exhaust leaks are very rare on these and nothing done under the campaign would cause this fault
  5. If you dont use the sun shades much there is also the option of having the dealer recode the car with the tester to not have sun shades. That will restore your window operation and they shouldn't charge much for the coding.
  6. Chances are you just have a bad battery, as someone else has mentioned sometimes these AGM batteries just die without warning so being on a trickle charger wouldn't made a difference either way. That being said the newer cars with AGM batteries will not reliably work with a cigarette lighter style trickle/charger maintainer, you'll need to hard wire to the battery. As long as you've called 1800Porsche you can expect to have someone that has been trained on these vehicles.
  7. Early cars did have problems with the thermostats, there was a campaign for thermostats and the updated part definitely fixed those issues. Water pumps on these engines v6 and v8 have been bulletproof, no issues there at all. I wouldn't put too much fair in those carfax repair records, too much gets lost in translation. The people doing the data entry on that know about as much about cars as I do about nuclear physics.
  8. Cool thread, sucks it had to happen though. Glad to see someone not scared of tearing one of these engines apart. Do you have the tools for reinstalling the wrist pin and pin circlips for cyls 4-6 when you're reassembling? Also just out of curiousity did you have an IMS failure or did you install the LN preemptively?
  9. Looks like I'm in for the same fix...but I'm having trouble with these part numbers. First, for the sealing rings, it looks like there's two parts with the same number: 955-201-133-01-M100 For that replacement part, the closest thing I could find was this one: 955-620-911-00-M100 Is that the correct piece? Thanks so much for the help! So in addition to the new flange (which is an updated part and should show up made of black plastic as opposed the original which will be white plastic) youll need two of 955-201-133-01-M100 and one 955-620-911-00-M100
  10. Nice job. This was definitely a common issue! I probably redid about 100 of those connectors. Don't be surprised if your light comes again at some point and you pull code 1218 for the passenger side!
  11. The procedure to replace the mounts by the book is pretty intense. We support the weight of the engine from the top, on the body. Then we have a special jack that has a huge jig with about 8 different mounting points. These all line up with holes in the subframe and body. Then we loosen and remove the entire front suspension and subframe. With that out of way you can remove the engine carrier and then replace both mounts. After reinstalling all those parts an alignment in required. There may be a quicker way to do it but none that I have tried or heard of. There is basically no room to work around the mounts with the car as it sits normally. They're really weren't designed to be replaced. I'm guessing most shops would charge around 7-8 hours of labor plus an alignment after the repair.
  12. Apart from the switches and the relays its not uncommon for the actual heater grid to go bad. I've replaced quite a few in my day. If you have a mulitmeter check for an open circuit in the actual cushions. I dont remember off the top of my head which connectors are which but the wires for the grid come out of the cushions and run to one of the connectors under the seat. You should be able to find it if you trace the wires back from the relay. If you find one of them is open circuit, there's your culprit.
  13. There are two different holes, one for bypassing the hydraulic pump so the actual top can be moved and one for manually running the clamshell. Make sure you're in the correct hole (LOL). If you are, try turning the screw while someone pulls on the clamshell.
  14. I would say something is likely bent. My money would be on a bent strut, ever hit anything with that corner? -.6 is a good bit of camber but not crazy though you'll probably notice inside edge tire wear on that corner. How does the car drive after the alignment? If it were my car and it drove OK and you don't notice any pulling I might ride it out and keep on top of checking the wear. If you do see accelerated wear then you'll have to pull the stuff apart and inspect for bent or worn out parts.
  15. That surprises me as I would expect to see vibrations enter at different engine speeds, etc. What is the best way to test or diagnose engine mounts definitively? The problem with the mounts is that they settle over time. If you take a new mount and set it next to a mount that is "bad" youll see the new mount is about 20mm taller than the used the mount. I believe this allows a part of the engine to touch the body which transfers the noise into the entire vehicle and for some reason it only happens when coming to a stop. Its not like a mount thats torn or cracked and the engine is flopping around which is the usual case with bad engine mounts. The first set of mounts we replaced on a Cayenne was pretty much a complete leap of faith. We had eliminated every other cause we could think of so the mounts were the only logical thing left. After we did the repair we were happily surprised to find the vibration/noise when coming to a stop was corrected because we definitely weren't 100% sure it was gonna fix it before we did the repair. Its at the point now where if I'm driving a higher mileage cayenne and I hear/feel the noise, I dont even need to to look under he car, I know its the mounts. But to answer your question, is there a definitive test for the mounts? Other than a trained ear? None that I know of. They're almost completely hid by how they sit into the engine carrier so a visual inspection which they're installed is extremely tough.
  16. Those wires that are cut are the speaker wires. Just match up those pairs of twisted wires to their original location in the amp connector. I don't think it will be as difficult as you think.
  17. If you were to remove it yourself and have it recovered, the headliner is not entirely difficult to remove but it is a lot of work. You'll have to remove a, b, and c pillars, all four grab handles, sun visors, roof console and unclip the headliner from the sunroof assembly. Once you have it dropped down pulling it out the back of the rear hatch is fun. Fold all the seats down and hold it diagonally. Once you get it recovered, make sure you get all new clips for the sunroof cut out.
  18. What are the condition of your spark plugs? The recommended replacement interval is 40K miles for the V6. How many miles are on it and or have you ever changed the plugs? If your plugs are relatively fresh its almost guaranteed the coils are causing your problem, not much else typically will cause misfires on these cars. Since after replacing the #2 coil your P0302 didn't come back, I would say replacing the rest of your coils would be the best call.
  19. Very straightforward swap. Un bolt both ends and drop the new mount in. 44 ft lbs to tighten the new mount.
  20. Without seeing your car in person, just judging from what you're describing it sounds a lot like engine mounts to me. The symptom is a nice deep vibration for one or two seconds from the entire front end as you come to a stop. Its becoming a common issue in higher mileage first gen Cayenne's, say 80K a up but some cars don't exhibit till 100K. If you have corrected the causes of all of your DME faults and you're still getting the vibration/shake when coming to a stop, its almost guaranteed the mounts.
  21. Yeah if your car doesn't have air suspension then you don't have the line. What you are seeing is all correct.
  22. No. Where that wiring was in your original picture WAS the factory location of the bose amp for all 4wd drive cars! Look at your picture you posted those shows the close up of the black connector and the chopped up wiring. See those two studs in the floor of the trunk? That was for the bracket that holds the amp.
  23. I would first suggest swapping the coil to a different cylinder and seeing if the misfire codes move to whatever cylinder you swapped to. So take the coil for cylinder two and swap it with the coil for cylinder 5 for instance and erase the faults and take it for a drive. If you get a p0305 then you know you've got a bad coil. If you still get p0302 then you've eliminated the coil and you can start looking at other thing (though I would almost gaurantee the coil is the issue. Have the pulled the coils yet to inspect? You may find when you pull the coil for cylinder 2 its all rusty and corroded.
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