PTEC

Does the spoiler raise and lower with the switch or does it not move at all? I would get a test light and check all of your fuses, when the Immobilzer control unit takes a dump due to water damage all kind of wierd fuses can blow.

Yeah the expansion tank on the 07s is no longer in the rear trunk. It uses the same type of system as the Cayman. Still plastic though.

If it sounds like its coming from the far right side of the dash, its probably the fresh air/recirc flap actuator. The 986 uses electronic actuators to move the flaps in the evaporator housing - they aren't controlled by vacuum as in the previous cars. When these actuators get noisy they make the sound you're describing. It seems the most common one to make noise is the one for flap which opens or closes the evaporator housing to air coming in through the pollen filter.

If it bugs you, its possible to get just the actuator and replace it but man oh man get ready to drop some F bombs unless you want to remove the evaporator housing . You can see the bugger if you remove the foam from under the dash on the passenger side and then get on your back and look upwards. Its sandwiched between the body and the evaporator housing leaving you with absolutely no room to work. There is a 4 pin electrical plug and and 5.5 or 6mm screw holding it in. If you get this far you still have to remove the actuator from the flap which is a PITA to do without breaking the plastic arms.

In short, I would live with it. A dealer could probably take care of it for a few hours of labor - that is if anyone is willing to do it without removing the Evaporator housing.

Sounds like a wheel bearing to me. I've never heard of a CV going bad on a 986 or 996.

The engine could potentially run with 1 cam position sensor. ROW 3.4Ls only have one sensor located on bank 1-3. For whatever reason - emissions probably - the USA vehicles also have one on 4-6. Since you're asking if both are needed you're probably in the US.

The sensor is a simple hall sensor which generates a signal from the rotor on the intake cam. The DME uses this signal mainly to determine ignition TDC of cylinder 1 but its also used for variocam system diagnosis.

So.... in US cars both are needed for proper variocam timing adjustment. As mentioned previously, if the DME didn't see one of the signals a fault would be recorded and I'm guessing the variocam system would cease working until the fault was remedied.

What information are you trying to see?

If you want to support your case, take it back to the dealer everytime it needs oil. If you're topping it off they dont have any accurate measure of how much its burning.

Its there one every car, no worries.

Could be a simple as a coolant cap.... what area of the car was the coolant under?

As for the mirror, you'll probably have to replace the whole visor to get a tight fit.

Its been a while since I've done it but I believe you have to stick a screwdriver in and unhinge and a clip that holds the airbag onto the wheel. If you point the wheel straight up and down I think the hole is at 6 o clock. Push upwards with the screwdriver and the airbag should pop off.

I think thats how you do it but I've only done it once or twice.

Its a fairly simple process, Ill bet it details it in the owners manual. Be aware that you really have to tug to get the light assembly out as there is a ball and socket holding it in on the back. You have to pull hard to get it to release.

Its pretty much the same setup as in the Cayenne. Im just about 100 percent sure you have to use the PIWIS to reset it.

Yeah this movement is pretty normal, though it can be exagerated by a failed engine carrier mount. This is the mount that holds the front of the engine to the body. Its a very common failure, but even if you replace the mount entirely, you'll still have some play there. Go drive a brand new 06 and youll feel that movement.

You might want to try upgrading the whole steering lock assembly to the new style. It has the new ignition switch (black and white) with it. There has been significantly less failures of the new style. I think its about 150 bucks.

Pretty much exactly what you would expect something called a push rod to do.... haha. Its connected to the transmissions and the main bow. When you push the cabtop button, the push arms turn the motion of the transmissions into movement of the top.

I think you're going to hear a lot of opinions but if it were my car I would be changing the oil and filter every 6 months and I would probably do the 15,000 mile service at two years.

Its pretty easy, if you understand german.... haha.

There are the six slider peices that fit into the groove. On each is something like vL mL and hL. vL means front left, mL means middle left, hL means rear left. Use the same system for the right side and you're good to go.

Third pic, tool to remove a stuck key from the ignition switch.

Basically how that system works is when you insert the key into the lock and turn it, you're also turning a rod that is mechanically connected to the door latch module and monitored by a microswitch. Its possible that the microswitch inside the door latch is no longer working and its not seeing the signal from the key being turned. Its also possible that the vehicle may have had a door latch replaced before and who ever did it forgot to install the actuating rod from the key cylinder to the door latch module (ive seen this before). It maybe be worth going through your warranty history and checking to see if its had an door latch. If it has, chances are someone needs to make good on thier installation.

Replacing the door latch is fairly straight forward but can be tedious. You'll need to remove the door panel and peel up a good portion of the door film. It helps to have small arms because its a tight fit reaching into the door. The two bolts on the outside holding the door latch to the door are size 8 triple square. There is one electrical connector running to it you will have to disconnect. You'll also need to undo the connector for the outer door handle pull. Slide the collar toward the outside of the door and pull it away. Installation is in the reverse but you have to ensure you have the rod from the key lock inserted into the slot on the door latch, this can be frustrating because you have to do it all by feel. Good luck if you attemp it.

8 hours is a bit steep, 6 hours would be more reasonable. As far as parts go to do the job right youll need either dreibond or loctite 5900, 6 spark plug tube o rings (one at each end), a new variocam solenoid seal, 3 green plugs that seal the cam cover, and 12 new encapsulated cam cover bolts. I would however use the tool which holds the cams... it only takes 2 minutes to install it and its worth peace of mind if you ask me. You definately need to remove the muffler and the support bracket. It also helps a lot to lower the rear of the engine as it will make removing the cam cover much easier.

Remove bolt you've circled in green along with the pulley. Reinsert just the bolt and thread it in a ways. Now shoot some WD40 into where the bolt threads in at the rear of the alternator housing (you can see that its rusted in the picture). Take a hammer and hit the bolt( or place something like a socket over the head of the bolt if you dont want to mar it) and drive the bolt a few mm back. Whats holding you up is there is a bushing in the rear portion of the alternator housing which is pulled too tight for you to remove the alternator. Driving that bushing out a few mms will allow you to remove the alternator easily. This is the factory procedure by the way.

I believe that is a plug some states or countries use during emissions testings. I've read that somewhere before but thats about all I remember.

This is service action w572. There are three different scopes depending on what they find including replacing the windstop, the clips and install some new rubber insulators.

I say paranoia. As the coolant gets hot and cold its losing small amounts in the form of vapor.

I got the small carpeted panels on the side off. Each is held in place with one T-25 screw.

Then there were two screws ( T-20 ) visible at each side panel , which I also removed.

But the panels will not come off .

Does anyone know how to remove them ?

Any help is appreciated .

Thanks.

The panels are held in with small clips. Pull them out towards you but be careful because you can break the clips on the trim piece of you dont pull it out straight enough. After that you've got 4 5mm allen locking tabs and one 7mm set screw.