PTEC

The visit work shop warning can be caused by many things but the most common cause right now is a bad front end control unit. The problem manifests it self as faults for the front trunk latch, although there is nothing wrong with it. There is an updated control unit and Porsche has technical information about it.

Yeah you need a new regulator. The one you have is worn out (cable stretched, pulley damaged, etc) and thats why its not dropping enough to clear the body. The motor pulls the cables but if there is any slack at all the window wont drop enough. The fact that its dropping period means everything else is working properly.

Hmm. I would HIGHLY doubt the MAF.... but yeah if the car cranks but doesnt start its probably not the immobilizer or the clutch switch. If it was either of those on a newer Porsche, the car wouldnt even crank at all. A few things that come to mind is either a hose popped off the fuel level sending unit, or that the sending unit itself is bad and you're out of gas but the guage is telling you that you still have fuel.

You might want to try bringing a small gas can with you and putting some fuel in and seeing if thats the case. Check your fuses too, though I cant remember what fuse the fuel pump is off hand. Otherwise you'll probably have to get it flatbedded to a dealer and have them start checking it out.

The oil fill neck on the boxster has 3 pieces. The first piece which attaches to the the case has an o ring to seal it. The middle peice is connected to the first peice with a hose clamp, and at the other end attaches to the third piece with another hose clamp. The last piece is the one you seen when you open the trunk and pop off the cap. I know people around here have PET access, the picture in PET shows it pretty clearly.

Removal of the middle piece (which has the accordian) isnt all that tough, but it is a bit tricky. The hose clamp connecting the filler tube to the engine is cake, but the one connecting it to the coolant tank assembly is the tricky part. I have a pair of hose clamp pliers which use a cable about two feet off from the handles of the pliers. They're expensive... try a 110 bucks.. but they make the job a snap. I pull out the rear carpet and look through the grommet where the engine wire harness runs into the trunk. With the special hose clamp pliers you can put that hose clamp on the tube and lock the pliers with the clamp expanded. Slide the tube on and looking through the grommet make sure the clamp is on nice and even, then release the pliers and viola. Im sure its possible without the special pliers but with them... its a slam bang job. Probably 30 minutes to do the entire job, pulling off the engine cover and everything.

Most commom cause of rattles in the doors over bumps is the speaker is loose. Over time the screws holding the speaker in back out, then the speaker clunks around. Porsche released updated speednuts for the door speaker.

Around 30mA is what you want. It will take around 45 minutes for all the control units to "go to sleep" and get an accurate reading.

If its dry, I wouldnt touch it.

Highly unlikely your gas froze... I'm pretty sure the freezing point of gas is insanely low. I've read on the net it will still burn at 97 degrees F below 0.

Take it somewhere else, that job can be done in the car.

Ok I just did some research on the W553 service action and it looks like this one is definately for you. Heres what it says.

This is to inform you of a voluntary Workshop Service Action on certain 2005 model year 911 Carrera

(997) and 911 Carrera S (997) vehicles. It is possible that the ignition key cannot be removed

from the ignition lock after driving the vehicle for approx. one hour. This problem arises

when the plastic tappet on the key lock magnet becomes deformed due to the heat.

There actually is a service action calling for replacement of the entire shifter in tiptronic vehicles of certain 987 and 997 vehicles, its service action W553. A call to your dealer with your VIN in hand will let them check to see if there are any open service actions out on your vehicle.

The fastest way is to push the pin out on which the door pivots. If you look at the both hinges you should be a pin which the door pivots on. You can push those right out and just the lid will pop off.

Or you can remove the door panel and remove the whole assembly.

Does the car crank at all? I would check stuff related to the ignition switch such as the plug on the back and on top and maybe even the clutch switch.

The intake and exhuast have been tweaked as well as the DME.

I'm in the process of retrofitting PCM navigation into my 05 987S. Some notes for those thinking of walking this path, plus some questions for those who have already:

Note #1: It's expensive! This will likely cost me ~$3600 in parts alone, and that's with help of the nice people at Sunset Imports to get these parts at a lower cost. The kit you need is the PCM retrofit kit (for me, part number 987-044-900-72), which includes the head unit, the DVD drive, and the navigation DVDs. You also need a cable, which will be specific to your model, equipment, VIN, etc.

Note #2: The install is also expensive. My indy shop can't do it. This requires the new diagnostic computer, which is $15k and they haven't sprung for it yet. My dealer quoted me 8 hours at $100/hour. Ouch.

Question #1: Is there any market for the head unit I'm removing (the CDR-24)?

Question #2: Is there any way to get a "binding quote" from my dealer to make sure they don't pull the "oh it took us longer than that" kind of crap and charge me even more?

I'll update everyone on how it goes once I get it settled (should be a couple of weeks).

Note #3: No I don't want to do an aftermarket head unit, and yes I know they are way cheaper. Stock look and stock condition are worth the extra to me. Feel free to think me crazy.

TMC

#1. There probably is some market for it but I wouldnt expect to get much for it.

#2.When you sign the estimate, legally they have to contact you before they can charge you more than the estimate quote.

This is for a car with PCM, I dont know if I've ever done it on a car with a CDR23. Pull off the horse shoe looking trim peice that goes around the center of the dash. After that you have to pull out the center ac vent. There are two clips inside the vents on the top that hold it in. Pull down on the clips and pull out the ac vent. Then remove the 4 t-20 screws and pull out the PCM assembly. There are two metal clips holding in the cupholder, push those down and remove the cupholder towards the front of the car.

jeez, there's gotta be an easier way. Anybody?

Honesty, if you have the tools in hand itll take under a minute. But seeing as you've never done it before itll probably take a bit longer. The picture loren posted shows the piece you're left with after you remove the 4 screws.

When I asked the dealer why didn't he detect the MAF in the first place, he said it was due to the air leak bringing in dust/pollen/etc and getting in the MAF.

For what its worth, an air leak can disguise a failing MAF. Air leaks cause the MAF to read less air, failing MAFs almost always read more air. Therefore you can have a failing MAF and a big enough air leak to offset the MAF reading high. Any technician sees fuel adaption towards positive and thinks air leak immediately. Technician finds the air leak and corrects it. Now what should have been done is a test drive and recheck of fuel adaptions, which if the MAF was failing, would be going towards negative and would indicate the MAF as on its way out. Unfortunately technicians dont get paid for test drives so the motivation to thoroughly ensure a repair is pretty low.

This is for a car with PCM, I dont know if I've ever done it on a car with a CDR23. Pull off the horse shoe looking trim peice that goes around the center of the dash. After that you have to pull out the center ac vent. There are two clips inside the vents on the top that hold it in. Pull down on the clips and pull out the ac vent. Then remove the 4 t-20 screws and pull out the PCM assembly. There are two metal clips holding in the cupholder, push those down and remove the cupholder towards the front of the car.

Thanks for the reply. The leak was -- at least appeared to be -- right above the bellhousing.

Yep, oil will puke out of the intermediate shaft flange and right out into the bellhousing. It'll look almost like a HUGE rear main leak.

I just had one go through the block with a truly ugly sound. Odd thing is the car never skipped a beat and I was convinced the sound was from another vehicle. Drove another 30 miles just fine, pressure and temp normal.

Once the engine was turned off oil simply flowed out. Not a spot of oil on the undercarriage so I assume negative engine pressure kept me from losing it.

New engine on the way.

What does this shaft do? I thought perhaps the oil pump but I maintained pressure.

The intermediate shaft does indeed drive the oil pump. Generally when intermediate shafts break, its not like it breaks in half. What happens is a small stud which protrudes from the much maligned intermediate shaft flange seal breaks off an goes flying around in the bell housing. If you take a look at some of the pictures people have taken of the flywheel side of the engine when the transmission is off, you can see a 13mm nut centered in the intermediate shaft flange seal, that nut and the stud its affixed to break. Oil pours out of the hole left in the middle of the flange seal.

The crank is still driving the intermediate shaft therefore you will still have oil pressure. The other purpose of the intermediate shaft is to drive the camshafts. One end of the intermediate shaft has two sprockets and the other has one. The end with two has one for the drive chain from the crank, and the other drives the cams.

Oxygen sensor ageing faults are the easiest CEL's to diagnose.

The DME keeps track of the reaction of the oxygen sensor. If you look at an oxygen sensor voltage over time on a graph you'll see the voltage fluctuating anywhere from .2 to .9 volts or somewhere around there. If the voltage doesnt fluctuate fast enough, the DME will set a fault. Slow reaction means the sensor is aged and not performing up to par. Toss a new sensor in.

Some people will try to "clean" the sensor using a torch and getting the probe tip red hot. I've never tried this so I dont know how good it works.

I had a problem with my secondary injection and it turned out to be the change over valve was not working.

This is by far the most common cause, especially if you can hear the air pump working. The change over valve has a vacuum diaphragm which goes bad. You'll find this valve under the intake manifold on back 1-3. You can test it by applying a vacuum and seeing if it holds. If not, you need a new valve. However, usually the change over valves failure is a symptom and not the real problem. A lot of times what happens is the non return valve (which prevents exhuast from the cylinder head going up stream to the secondary air pump) has failed and the exhuast has burnt up the change over valve. If you see corrosion or scorching on the one end of the change over valve, it would be very wise to replace the non return valve.

Common problem with the older cars.

You need to replace the switch on the right in the picture, which was redesigned after your car was made.

Thanks but .... Where is the switch located on the car?

Do you have a part #??

The switch is located in the windsheild frame, where the hook for the cabtop is manually latched.

3m makes some great velcro strips that have a strong adhesive on the back of the fuzzy side. Make sure you clean all old adhesive off of EVERYTHING or it will probably happen again.

Its pretty common for the window regulator to fail, in fact its pretty much the only thing that goes wrong with the windows period. Seems like most places charge around two and a half hours for replacement.