PTEC

related: did your light sockets have the rear fogs in place? mine were missing

Is this a non-US car thing?

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The emergency release triggers the front latch but with an added relay that pulls the safety catch (the red lever you see if you look at the lower latch) so that the hood may be fully opened without having to undo the safety. I dont understand how this happened because the safety wouldnt allow the hood to pop open. You can reach down and pop the hood release button then drive off at 100 mph and that hoods not going to open because the safety. Seems like the only way would be if the emergency release shorted or something and caused the safety catch to be pulled.

Thats the only thing i can possibly think of. I dont think you have any fault at all in this. If you take a normal boxster... its not even possible to set the hood down without engaging the safety. Just the weight of the hood itself will cause it to engage. Its possible to not latch it fully but none the less the safety will be engaged.

I would say not important at all. It may not be "torqued" but its "tight" and thats pretty much all that matters on something like that. If the cars feels better dont bog yourself down in trying to find something wrong that the technician did.

Is the hook cycling and the windows not going up? There is a plactic cover which goes over the latch on 996's as pictured in lorens post above me. Chances are the latching hook cover is cracked and deformed therefor not fully engaging the microswitch. Its a pretty common ocurrance and i have no idea why they engineered the latch differently than the boxster (which doesnt have this cover). Inspect and if its deformed at all, replace it. Its held on with some glue and a knife will take it right off.

Awesome! Got to love how easy it is to pick up power on turbo cars with the DME reflash. 599 bucks for that is a steal.

ptec - what do you mean after a drive cycle?  thanks.

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Basically after allowing the car to come up to temp. The DME has to see certain parameters met in order for it to under go all of its tests like oxygen sensing regulation, tank venting, secondary air injection and the like. On the car i had, I could let it sit there forever and the noise would never happen. However, if I took it out for a quick spin I would notice the noise almost immediately upon return if I left the car idling.

Hardtop might no be bad since it looks like Porsche is using shoelaces for the soft top.

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Ah! I've seen the same thing on a new boxster. I guess its a tension rope for one of the folds in the fabric. The string is crimped to an elastic section but the crimp is weak and the string comes apart. The string has been redesigned as a result.

It will not void your warranty. If you develop an oil leak they're not going to tell you to ***** up a rope because you put a switch in. I can tell you that much for sure.

You are also going to need a special socket to remove the breakaway nuts on the triggering unit. One nut is a regular 10mm nut and the other two or three are special. The socket is about 40 bucks (for a 1/4" drive socket!) if you order through your parts department. I dont know the tool number off hand.

The triggering unit is located in the same spot for all boxsters and 996 all the way up to 997 and 987.

Cool pictures, thanks!

I would say those times are very fair.

Anywhere from 2.2 to 3 hours is pretty normal for a coolant tank. Definitely buy the cap.

Brakes for an hour labor? Is that just pads or pads and rotors? Pads and rotors can go anywhere from two to three hours. A brake flush is also a good idea.

Two hours for a plugs is a bit on the high side.

Thanks for the input.  That was my thought a well but was told by both the service rep and the parts person at Sunset that I wouldn't necessarily see the leak in the truck.

My concern is that it cracks at the firewall and there is something that I'm not going to know about or need another part for until I take the tank out.

Thanks,

-pvaughan

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I've never seen a tank that was cracked that wasnt leaking into the trunk. Top off your coolant and keep driving it. If the light comes back, pull up the carpet... its a few minute job and you'll find out for sure real quick if the tank is your problem..... (and it almost always is).

Yeah pushrod engines use old technology but you cant argue with the results. Drive a car equipped a new chevy small block ls2 and you'll be able to overlook the fact its old technology REAL fast. Ill take my ponies any way i can get them.

A simple way to see if you tank is leaking is to pull up the carpet in the rear trunk. If your tank is leaking, you will see coolant under the carpet.

westwood - can you describe when you get this noise?  i am experiencing some noise as well and never knew how to describe it but it does sound like howling (a bit).

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The noise i ran into sounded like when you blow across the neck of a bottle just right and you get a howling sound. In my case the noise was most noticeable after a drive cycle.

I have posted this here serveral times....

Remove the trim around the cdr/pcm and the ac control head. Remove the ac control head and you will see two t20 screws for the ashtray.

I believe what happens here is the screw for the stop gets loose and when the window hits it, it pops. Some of the stops are riveted and some are held in with a screw(I think in the boxster the stop is riveted). Either way, a new window regulator would fix this. Or you could remove the door panel and have a look under the door skin at the screw on the stop and see if its loose. You might be able to tighten the screw and stop the noise. If the car is under warranty take it to a dealer and you'll get a new window regulator.

Wiring diagrams in paper form are not going to be released for the 987/997. They are electronic and accessed with the PIWIS.

The bypass switch is an option for both 05 and 06 cars. Its a key operated switch in on the passenger side dash to disable the passenger airbag. It seems that some earlier cars didn't come with the light to notify when it was deactivated. The newer cars seem to have the light, even if they have the deactivation switch or not. The cars that didn't come with the light had to have the center console removed where on the backside there was a cutout for installation of the light.

You dont need to remove the intake. Its a tight fit getting it in and out but it will fit back in for sure.

You wont be able to lock the used triggering unit to your car.

The turbo is not immune to rear main leaks, but it is highly uncommon. Your leak sounds like it could be pentosin.

Need a new regulator. Slack is bad, its the reason why the window isnt dropping enough when the door is opened. The motor will take up the slack but it wont be enough to move the window.

Thats totally ridiculous. What warranty company is this?

When you hit the stalk, do you hear the motors or does water leak out of anywhere?