PTEC

Well, I would take a 996 Turbo or GT2/3 but other than that, they are my favorite 996 by far. I think the whole asthetic package is really attractive and the extra bit of power is pretty noticable over a regular 996.

Also the proper way to measure these is with an inside micrometer that has pointed ends.

I would say 2-3 hours is a big underestimation especially for someone with no prior experience. I would say 5-6 hours for a first timer. I would also recommend removing the engine and transmission as one unit, theres no reason not to.

The actual canister/tank/filter whatever you want to call it is located in the passenger front wheel well, just behind the wheel. If you have evap faults though a common cause for that is the purge valve getting stuck (11 in that picture above. You'll find it in your engine compartment with a hose coming off each end and an electrical connection.

PTEC, your description is slightly muddled, as the resistors being in circuit make the motors turn more slowly. Your description should have been "If you're getting high speed but not low speed, the resistors are burned out"

A very easy way to test the resistors without having to dive under the car, is to remove relay 19 & 20. Measure the resistance between pin 5 (87) of socket 19 and pin 5 (87) of socket 20. This should be 0.55ohm. Remove relay 21 & 22 and repeat. Again, 0.55ohm.

After all that, the temperature sensor is a split NTC device that has one sensor for the instrument cluster and one for the DME. One can go bad without the other, hooking the car up to a diagnostic computer will show this straight away.

Chris

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This guy knows his stuff! I just looked at the wiring diagram, and you're exactly right about the high working but low not if the resistor was burnt out. Also about the double NTC coolant temp sensor being split between the DME and the cluster.

I learned something today.

Both side fans should come on low speed with AC operation. If you let the car idle long enough you should get high speed of both. If you're getting low speed but not high speed, then chances are the resistor is burnt out. If you're not getting either speed.... then I dunno.

If you didn't already check the fuses, each side has its own fuse.... C8 and C10 in the footwell fuse box.

Either way, I'm pretty sure the Fans are triggered by the DME whether the AC is on or not. The DME sees the AC operation over the CAN and then it triggers the fans.

If your hand brake microswitch is working then theres not a lot we can do here. There are like 7 or so different micro switches in various parts of the cabtop and the control unit needs to see exactly the right settings or the cabtop wont work.

Unless you want to start throwing parts blindly, the best thing would be to take it to a dealership where they can diagnosis with the PIWIS.

The leaking from the case bolts and the intermediate shaft bearing cover are nothing new... Porsche has attempted to address those areas in the latest technical information by using the new micro encapsulated bolts and whatnot.

But, I've never seen oil leak from above the seal before.

Before you do this, make sure you have a serious wrench to loosen and tighten the caliper bolts. The tightening specs for the bolt (number 8 in the picture on the left) is 240 ft-lbs. Make sure to replace the caliper bolts and caliper hardware.

Its a very simple switch. All you need is an 11mm socket.

Porsche attempted to fix this problem with the W420 service action, but it was found that the updated switch did not fix the problem. When the new part is ready, a new service action will be created and the new (new) switch will be installed.

The latest fix really isn't all that complicated, though the latest technical info calls for a different fix for the pre 00 cars than the newer cars. Both involve new belt buckles and new connectors and connector housings. If you have a basic knowledge of crimping and soldering and can follow instructions you can do it yourself. Pretty much the only tool out of the ordinary you will need is an E12 torx socket, which you use to remove the seat bolts.

Sent you a PM.

This is definately the most common cause of CEL's in the 986/996. I get a kick when people try and diagnosis these CEL problems over the internet and people go crazy with ideas of what is causing the faults when 90 percent of the time the MAF is reading high. The fuel system practically never has problems (unless you're taking about the level sender). The MAF hardly ever fails outright. 9 out of 10 times when the car is taking away fuel and setting oxygen sensing faults, your MAF is on the way out and reading high.

Great post.

This is just the nature of the beast. The condensor HAS to be in an area where a lot of air can flow over it to cool it. You just happened to get unlucky and have a rock damage it. In all reality its pretty much just bad luck that it happened. No different than if a stone hit the windshield really.

Inside the vent, on the top, there are two metal clips that you need to hook and pull down, which will allow you to pull the vent out. Its a bit of a p.i.t.a.

Weather is definately a factor. The heat and humidity will slow you down a lot.

If you want more power, get a reflash.

Nope, all you need to do is remove the 13mm nut. Once thats off just pry the wiper arm off. If you can stick your fingers underneath it as close to where its fastened to the glass, you can kind of rock it back and forth and itll come off.

I love this thread...

The cable is for the battery cut off switch used during transportation, and is removed during the PDI.

Good to know about the little tool for the ignition switch, i just found the one for manual operation of the sunroof in a 997 today.

I assume you're talking about the connector under the drivers seat. As long as you dont turn on the ignition while the connector is unplugged, you wont cause any airbag faults.

Congratulations, replacing a dashboard is no minor task!

You need to remove the AC control head first. There are two metal tangs on either side you will need to press in so that you can pull the ac head out. Its a pain in the ***. Once you have that out you will see two t20 torx screws. The plug for the cigar lighter will also need to be undone before it pulls completely out.

I heard it has something to do with the engineering project number Porsche assigns a new project when its being built. I dont think 955 has any signifigance, its just a number

I bought the 2169 from a cornwell dealer for 15 bucks.

There are two o-rings, one on either end of the tube that can leak into the tube and around the coil pack. I've seen them leak internally without any extrernal suggestion of leakage. If you dont have any misfires or anything and visually there is no oil leaking from around the coilpack areas then its relatively safe to assume they are good.

Could be the boost spring too, they're pretty notorious for making noise.