PTEC

If you have replaced the plugs and coils and you're still getting the same codes you can pretty much rule out plugs and coils. You could try swapping the fuel injectors to make sure you're getting fuel to #3 but injector issues are extremely rare. I would say the next step is to do a leakdown or a compression test to check the mechanical condition of the engine. A fault MAF is not going to cause a misfire in one cylinder. 90% of the time bad MAF will throw oxygen sensing faults.

The hydraulics only move the top. The lid is driven by an electric motor and a worm gears. Either way there is a special procedure for after the top has been emergency operated. If I remember correctly you need to set the potentiometer for the top lid motor to a certain value and then do a convertible top calibration. Unfortunately I don't remember what the value is but I think its 6.3k ohms. Also you have to make sure the gold allen screw is in the correct position or otherwise the lid wont move.

Its likely you need a new rear window regulator. Unfortunately these are pricey as you have to buy the window regulator and the motor as one. Replacing them is another matter entirely. What a pain.

Its perfectly normal to need to top off the coolant every now and then. If you want to check for leaks by far the most common areas are the coolant tank and cap and the coolant pump. If you're just a bit low you add plain ol water without worry.

Well removing the door panel is the easy part. The real issue is in order to replace the door lock you have to remove the inner door frame, which is a real PITA to get back in and adjusted correctly so the door opens and closes smoothly. This is one repair I would pay for someone else to do.

5 satellites slightly low but all you need is 3 really. Next time you're on a longer drive make sure the PCM is seeing constant 3 or more. Instead of looking at the map screen keep your eyes on the info screen. I've seen units that lose reception but only for just a second and it really throws everything off - the satellites number goes to 0 but then back up to 7 or whatever in a few minutes. If it seems like your seeing satellites then you probably need to take it to the dealer and have the fault memory read out and see if you've got any codes stored.

I believe the on 2005 and newer Cayennes the "brake switch" is actually a calculated from the brake booster pressure sensor... ie there is no brake light switch. 2004 Cayennes have the switch have the switch like your illustration.

Take that rear most under panel off and take a look at the water pump. Its right there. Its a pretty common leak but of course it could also be from any of the coolant hoses in that area too. I would suspect the water pump though.

907 is a garbage fault. You'll find that in just about every Cayenne out there. Erase it and don't worry about it.

The air quality sensor is indeed where loren mentioned. If you take off the cover for the brake fluid resevoir you'll find it attached on the bottom of the cowl, toward the center of the vehicle. If it comes back after you erase, its common for this to get left unconnected if you've had a new windshield installed.

As far as the PSM light goes, its pefectly normal for that happen if the battery has been disconnected.

This has been done to a PCM3 equipped Cayenne. The entire PCM unit is different for cars equipped with XM and those without. The retrofit on the Cayenne involved a new PCM and installing a new wireharness to the rear spoiler where the XM/GPS combo antenna is located. Then PAG has to supply an activation code which has to be programmed with the PIWIS tester. I would doubt that the 997s are prewired for XM because the Cayennes most definitely are not.

I guess for as nasty as it looks whats really the issue here? It seems that with the fuel being directly injected to the cylinders, there should be no issues with the carbon sucking up fuel from the air fuel mixture as it goes into the intake causing driveability problems. What kind of problems do the higher mileage audi DFI engines run into?

You can try disconnecting the battery and resetting it but more than likely you need a new pcm. Hope you're under warrant still!

Usually during the 20K service you're also getting an air filter, pollen filter and wiper blades as well. So saying you're only getting an oil change for $600 is just being cynical. Also on the newer cars the dealer will reset your service light so you don't have to see it flash at you every time you start the car. Good luck doing that in your garage. Servicing your car at the dealer is a great way to build a relationship that could potentially benefit you in the future. Say you stroll in and need an airbag light cleared. If you have a good relationship with the dealer and your service adviser, the car gets taken into the shop and cleared and you're good to go free of charge. Joe Blow Shadetree Mechanic strolls in and gets charged a half hour of labor for the same thing because nobody in the service department has ever seen the guy in their life. Also another huge benefit of servicing your car at the dealer is in case of a rainy day and you need Goodwill assistance when you're out of warranty. Full service history at the dealer is the difference between Porsche only paying for 25% of your new engine and paying for the whole thing.

The 996 doesnt have a connection there like the 997 does. What connections have you checked so far? What voltage are you seeing at the battery with the car running?

The service interval on the plugs on a 99 is actually 30k. Its only 60k on the 2001 and newer cars. And as Loren mentioned I wouldn't bother replacing any coils unless they were badly corroded or cracked.

The correct fluid is available through the dealer though I dont recall exactly what it uses. A quick call and you should be on your way. I'm curious how you deduced it was low and how many miles are on your Cayenne.

As Loren states TSB's are done on an as needed basis. A lot people use the term mistakenly use TSB as a generic word to cover campaigns (recalls which are required by law Porsche complete free of charge), service actions (voluntary improvements completed free of charge by Porsche as they see fit) and TSB's (repair instructions for a specific problem which Porsche is under no obligation to peform). Any dealer is able to tell you very easily which campaigns and service actions have been completed on your vehicle provided with the VIN. Telling if there have been any TSB's completed would require looking over the warranty history line by line and then cross referencing that with available TSB's which would be no easy task.

I've seen this fault a few times and every time its been the sensor itself. If that is the case the sensor is fairly cheap though it is a bit tricky to get to. There is one sensor for each intake camshaft on the back of each cylinder head, near the bulkhead. If you have some tools you could probably do the repair yourself.

Hi,

My '03 TT's turn signal stalk no longer cancels and won't hold in positions (both left and right turns) after being freed from getting stuck during use! I can feel some plastic pieces inside jamming the action of the stalk. I later removed the above loose piece from the rubber boot opening so at least I can activate the turn signals in both directions. So I am pretty sure the mechanism is broken! If anyone knows the DIY for replacing the turn signal stalk, can you please help me out here? Please provide a fair bit of detail as I am new to working on porsche. Thanks.

Regards,

Vince

'03 996 TT, arctic silver/black, bone stock

You're going to need to replace the entire switch unit, its a pretty common failure. Luckily its a fairly straight forward procedure. There's bound to be a DIY for steering wheel removal around here and if you can do that then you're halfway there. After the wheel is off you remove the clock spring and the steering column trim. Loosen the 8mm pinch bolt and the entire unit will slide off the column. Undo the electrical connectors and reinstall in reverse order.

Tools you'll need (off the top of my head)

T30 torx to remove airbag

24mm to remove steering wheel

Phillips to remove clock spring and column trim

8mm to loosen column pinch bolt on switch assembly

Tube connects to the brake booster vacuum line.

I believe the 5900 is a superior product. I would go with that.

What codes exactly are you getting. A lot of people get faults for "oxygen sensing" and assume it means the oxygen sensors are at fault. What year boxster do you have?

What version software is your PCM? In order to run the OEM Cayenne kit (which is what it sounds like you've done) you need to have at least Model Level B software. If that's up to date and you've otherwise done the install correctly you may need to head to the dealer to have your MOST ring correctly setup.

Just got the same problem. I plotted the O2 sensors before and after the cat on both banks using Durametric.

See below graphs:

My analysis:

Bank 1 has the post sensor oscillating nicely following what the pre sensor measures. The Cat must definitely be shot!

For Bank 2, it's more like what I expected, only that the value of the post is pretty high. I was hoping to see it stable around 0.45V?

Anybody can give me some feedback and an educated analysis of the graphs

Am I right? Do I just have a bad cat on Bank 1 and sensors are fine?

It is with the Engine at Idle after a 10min drive (so warm everything)....

Thanks!

Rich.

PS: It is on a US 996 C4S 2002 , 6 spd with 39K miles and quiet a few track days in the past 6 months... :-)

Yeah your bank 1 cat is totally shot. Check out the graph for bank 2. See how the red line (indicating o2 sensor after cat) is nice and flat. This mean your cat is working and oxidizing the exhaust gasses. Notice how the graph for bank 1 the lines are almost the same. This means the o2 sensor in front of the cat and behind the cat are reading almost the exact same thing. AKA... your cat isnt doing jack ****.

What problems have the other DFI engines been having?