PTEC

More update: I took the car back to Steve at Johnson's Alignment yesterday. They put the front up in the air, he took a look, then called me over to check it out. I put my fingers around the chrome center rod of the right front shock and pushed, and the shock wiggled around. The left side didn't move nearly as much. I guess shocks aren't supposed to be loose like that.

Supposedly Bilstein is having a 4 for the price of 3 sale in the April timeframe. I may just get new shocks then. Still need to talk to the dealer to see what they say, or at least get them to note the problem in their files. I am expecting that shocks are a wear item. Steve's recommendation was the Bilstein HDs will ride better than stock. But he pointed out there's no need to rush and replace the shocks, as nothing is leaking at this time, so no sales job

If thats the case, thats scary. I would love to see pictures of that strut after its removed. For the piston rod to be loose enough to be moved by hand something is really wrong. There should be zero movement there. Are you sure all of the oil didnt leak out already? Lol. Are they making any noises at all?

:??

Almost definitely the valve body. Shifting problems with the 4 - 5 and the 5 - 4 shifts are known to be caused by failing valve bodies. When this happens they don't set faults - you just feel it when you're driving. I hope you have an extended warranty... these are a bit.... pricey.

Started up for the Spring, and had CEL light. Porsche advised CEL would go away after (3) driving sessions of over 20minutes. During the first driving session, the CEL flashed and beeped once every 20 minutes. Called Porsche, they came and towed Cayman away for service! Only 2400 kms!!! Engine was running rough in the 1500 to 2500 RPM range, but ran smooth over 3000 RPM, but chugged with a slight rocking feeling during idle...appeared to be misfiring, but I'm not an expert. Anyone with CAT conv. problems on a 2006 Cayman S?

What faults were stored in your DME?

I've had similar problems on my Cayenne S MY04 (US version), that is no lights showing up on opening the driver's door.

I figured it out that the car doesn't see the door as open when it is. It sees it as closed. But when I put it half-shut (half-closed) the lights come up, the "door open" bell chimes and so on. So, this is how the car "sees" the drivers door in my case (from closed door to open): Closed (when the door is closed), open (for the little part of a second when the door is being opened), closed (when the door is open).

The Porsche service center said that the locking on the driver's door needed to be changed in order to fix that (haven't done it though).

Maybe it helps. If not, good luck =)

Thanks SOH! Now I don't feel like I'm crazy. It just doesn't sound right that the door lock needs replacement unless it's got a gyrospce or something built in. Can any mechanicsa explain this? Other than that, I just found that my footwell light was clipped. I wonder if this is what's messing me up..

There is a microswitch inside the door lock unit that tells the alarm control unit if the door is latched or unlatched (ie, closed or open). When you physically open the door and the microswitch for the door latch doesn't register as open, the alarm control unit will not know to tell the vehicle electrical control unit to turn the interior lights on. This microswitch is located inside the door latch unit. You need to check the actual value for the drivers door and see if its operating correctly. If its not, SOH is correct in that the door latch unit must be replaced.

You need to make sure you get behind the lens and under the actual light itself and pry outwards.

You probably have service action W737 done. This is DME programming update to deactivate the lowest speed setting of the engine compartment fan. I don't think anyone knows exactly what this update does to the DME but I guess its possible they use the radiator fans to make up for less cooling in the engine compartment. I would think this would have more to do with any noticable changes than anything related to the water pump replacement.

Individual memory may not be there depending on what options your car is equipped with. Its definitely possible to activate DRLs through the PCM on cars that are optioned correctly. I believe you need i 640 sport chrono package plus, just having sport chrono is not enough. If you do not see individual memory in your pcm when you hit the set button from the main screen you will need to have the dealer activate the DRL's with the tester.

I think I have a related problem. I recently bought an '06 911S and the navigation system isn't working. It says the DVD is not readable. The disk that came with the car has an 04.05 date printed on the left side of the disk. The local dealer said that this was not the correct disk. I would like a second opinion before I go down the path to get a correct disk. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe

What software version is your PCM, this is allow us to tell you what version nav dvd you need.

Good info.... someone should rewrite all of it and make a sticky thread. Could save some people a lot of money.

The airbox on the 997 is a bit different actually. There is a vacuum switchable flap that is opened depending on engine rpm. The flap opens and closes and resonance resevoir inside the airbox which affects the intake sound.

Side to side play of the piston? The only real way to determine that would be to remove the entire strut assembly and disassemble it. Then you would have to measure the side to side play and compare it to a spec Porsche doesn't even publish. I say definitely get it into the dealer and repeat to them what your indy told you. I almost gaurantee they wont replace anything.. which is saying something because if your car is under warranty they have almost free reign to replace anything. I've never heard any reputable source say Porsche struts wear out at 50k miles. Does that number seem funny to you... OH thats when your warranty runs out. Just in time for your indy to swoop in and save the day.

So I was browsing through some of the old information that I had gathered up when trying to do the NAV update, heres what I'm seeing. According to the "PCM2.1 and BOSE Amplifier spare parts requirements" before updating to Model Level A, you must first check to see if you have the correct Bose amplifier. It states any bose amps having part number 997.645.333.04 or 997.645.333.05 must be replaced with 997.645.334.22 or newer. It would seem therefore as though there is no way to update amp so that the nav update can be peformed through software. There are BOSE software updates out there but as far as I know none of them will accomplish this action.

Engine which were reconditioned by Porsche lack cosmoline but are also identifiable by "AT" in the engine serial number. If I remember right an engine which was reconditioned would have a serial number starting with M96/01AT then be followed by the production number.

No buttons for telephone functions on mine.

I've got codes P420 and P430, combined with a rattle in my exhaust. I am running muffler bypasses so the rattle must be in my cats. My indy tech banged on the driver side cat some and thought he heard some element rattling around in there.

Are my cats probably deceased at this point?

The cats coming apart is fairly common on these cars, though I dont know if I've ever seen both come apart on the same car (which is what your faults indicate.) I've seen plenty of P0420 and its always the cats. When they do come apart is a pretty nice knocking sound coming right from the cats. Removing them isn't that hard if you have access to a lift or some good jackstands and its usually obvious if one has came apart if you get if off the car. Like I mentioned earlier see if you would apply for federal emissions warranty, which is 8 years or 80k miles in CA and 7 years or 70k miles everywhere else.

Ask him what he means by "wobbly"? The struts on these cars last for a long time and unless it was leaking or noisy I wouldn't bother replacing anything just yet. I would say save your pennies ... smells fishy to me. Or possibly take it to another dealer and ask their opinion. I'm almost positive the struts are covered under the factory warranty and the dealer should replace it...that is if there is anything wrong with it in the first place.

I've bought a few used cars in my day and very rarely have they ever come with the manuals. Most people don't have the manuals with the car when they trade it in therefore they never make it to the new owner. And because most people dont care about the manuals the dealers don't take it upon themselves to purchase new (IE, expensive) manuals for the new owner. It sounds like you got a nice car and calling it a "craigslist car" because it didn't have the manuals with it seems like a bit of an exaggeration to me. If they explicitly stated the manuals would come with the car though it sounds like the your salesperson/dealer owes you a set and I would pursue that instead of knocking the CPO program.

I believe you turned your amp into a brick much like the other guy trying to do a nav update. For some reason this happens if you try to do the update while having the earliest version of the BOSE software. Don't feel bad though, I made the same mistake. Porsche doesnt make it very clear but I guess this is why they say the TSB's are NOT FOR THE DIY'ER lol. Luckily my extended warranty covered the cost of a new amp and with the new amp installed everything went smooth with the update. Someone should create a sticky on the top of the forums or something like that though because this has the potential to be a 1000$ (cost of a new amp) mistake.

Man am I sorry I didnt get to this thread earlier. I roasted a bose amp as well trying to accomplish the update. As you said, that version of BOSE cannot be made to work with the new software. From what I could gather that amp only came installed in the very early build MY05s. I seem to remember a VIN split in the spare parts bulletin. Luckily my extended warranty covered a replacement amp and the new one came with the updated software already installed. With the new amp the MY08 nav update went smooth as butter.

There is a micro siwthc in the latch assembly and it sound like it's on it's way out. I always replace all three micro switches when I have the door apart for these problems.

Definitely sounds like you need a new door latch. I would start with that and go from there. You can save yourself a bit of time by just taking the door panel off and unplugging the latch (without actually removing it from the door) and plugging the new latch in without installing it. It should correct the problem.

If you only have 12.1 at the battery with the car running you've definitely got a problem. Besides outright alternator failure the most common issue here the cable that connects the alternator - starter and the battery. Theres been a problem with the cables where the cable is crimped where it connects to the starter. It causes a voltage drop that prevents the alternator from charging the battery. It sounds like what you have going on. You need some leads with a sharp tip so you can poke through the insulation of the wire and get a reading from there. If you can successfully do it, I would guess you'll see about 13.5 at the back of the alternator. Its pretty much the only way you can condemn the cable.

Loctite 574 is Porsche approved and much better IMO than the stuff (dreibond) thats pictures aboved.

I'm not re-reading this whole thread again to check, but has anyone mentioned the phrase "matching numbers."

I intend to keep my Box long enuf for that to be important. If I live long enuf, that is.

As far as most M96.03 and M96.23 engined cars go, the phrase "matching numbers" equates to "ticking timebomb." That is unless of course the original engine has already been rebuild with the updated intermediate shaft. I personally think as others have said in this thread the way to go is a reman engine. You get all of Porsche's latest and greatest parts and a two year warranty on it all.

There is a known issue for hard shifting from 5-4 or 5-3. Pay attention to which gears you're in when you feel it. If this is your problem you'll need a new valve body in the transmission. They're not cheap.

Check your owners manual. There is at tool for emergency operation that you'll need to use to manually operate the flap and put it into the full down position. After that the cabtop should be able to be closed using the switch as normally unless you have other problems.