por911

I believe these are what your looking for. Sorry for the poor lighting.

There is a pic I posted of the RMS installation tool, along with the part#over on that thread. :)

I believe tool #9699(see pic) is the latest. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Its basically 2 tools in one(press tool, and go/no go tool). :)

Sorry, have not been on the web in a bit. I'll check when I get back home. They were sent in two boxes(ie numerous volumes). I installed the last updates that were officially released, which were only a couple.

A good combo on that car is a set of SSI's, pre74 style or sport type muffler. It also helps to have a alu sport Sachs clutch set-up with a Fidanza lightweight flywheel. The spin up is much quicker and exhaust has a great note, especially at higher rpms. :welcome:

I believe you need to be a member. When I looked at the Sears unit here in WA, they wanted $120, so even with a $60 battery and $45 membership, your still ahead of the game. No affiliation, just satisfied with the membership.

Just get a #10 or 48 series battery at Costco, its the same as the one sold at Sears for twice the amount. Its runs about $60. I'd run a Interstate Megatron for awile but it gave up and frankly I was looking to change after that much hassle. The one from Costco has been reliable so far. :clapping:

tool #9699

order # 000 721 969 90

I believe this is the newest version of the rms installation tool :thumbup:

Its sounds like(unfortunately) you might have imediate shaft bearings that are nearing the end of their life. Its worth checking the distributor and the cam chain rollers as well(doubt these will be it though) but its always somewhat difficult diagnosing these types of issues over the web. :cheers:

Well, not knowing the year, or mileage on your car, I'd start with the basics first:

-If you have access to the durametric software, it might give you alot of insight into what is actually happening(lean, rich, throwing codes, etc).

-If the filters(fuel(97-01), air, etc) and spark plugs have not been done in the last 30k, you might consider changing them out to have a good basis to work off from.

-Changing out the AOS is a great place top start, Having just changed ours with 50k on it, it was time.

-You might also consider cleaning out the throttle body.

The maf could be giving secondary issues but from what your describing , the majority of the problem sounds like the AOS. :cheers:

Sorry to hear about the engine failure , but it sounds like you were having a pretty good time when it went south. You might consider contacting Kenn Young(parts manager) at Hennessy Porsche 1-800-471-0911, email: kyoung@hennessyporsche.com

No affiliation, just satisfied customer. He's given me great pricing throughout the years and knows the mark well. :cheers:

Its not too bad of a job, just replaced one a couple months ago. I found it easier to put the rear of the car up onto a set of rhino ramps. Then, put a floor jack (with a pad)right at the point where the engine and trans come together. This will give you lots of support without getting in the way. You'll find the mount needs to be taken out as an assembly with the bracket to the chassis. The center bolt comes out easily with the assembly out of the car. There are some upper nuts/bolts on the mount to engine which you might need to accces through the panel behind the seats. Sorry I don't have pics, on our other computer(not near it).

You can support the engine from up top but most people don't have the engine/trans suppport bar. An Autozone might have one around you but if your not careful it quite easy to damage the gutters that it rests on. :cheers:

Check the warm-up regulator first, doubtful its a filter. If the WUR(known trouble maker) checks out then I would start with checking the fuel accumulator, rest pressure, cold start valve, and running fuel pressure. The mixture or the setting on the CIS might be off , but I would start with the basics first. Sorry, I could not be more precise but its gives you a place to start. You might want to refer to the factory repair manual for the diagnostic procedures for the CIS fuel system, ie checking the WUR, fuel pressures, settings. :cheers:

If no one else has said it, thank you for posting this. I've ordered all the appropriate factory tools to replace the rms this winter on our 01. The lack of a spring looks a tade troubling though , but I hope it works. :notworthy:

Hi Kim

You might try P21S Gel with a nylon brush on the insides. Brake dust is tough to remove especially after 45k. Scrub the P21S into the area and wash off until the debris is gone. Soak the inside for a bit , then scrub it and it should come clean after washing it off. Hope that helps, worked well for me.

There are a couple DIY clutch/rms articles out there:

1. #122 ,Sept. 2003, Excellence Magazine

2. #128 , Nov. 2004, 911 & Porsche World

I'm about to replace our flywheel, clutch kit, updated the rms on our 01 this winter. You'll need a couple special tools , rms installation tool(just ordered today, $250), flywheel lock, crank lock. Forget how much the others are, I've had those for awhile. The above mentioned articles should give you a good sense of what the job entails. The one in , the 911 & Porsche World is quite good except for the fact that its missing the torque spec for the 13mm nut , central on the intermediate shaft seal. The factory workshop manual is also a helpful to place to look if you have one of those handy. :cheers:

I've used them, same as oem. They seem to have the similar quality and compounds as ATE, Textar, etc. They used to be the oem manufacturer for alot of BMW's brake pads. For a stock pad, they are fine. Jurid are far better then manufacturers like PBR(poor casting, poor pad compound). :cheers:

What are your impressions of the obd manual? Are the diagnostics fair detailed? :cheers:

I've had cam tensioner issues with a couple of our Audis(multiple cam tensioners replaced under warranty). From what I've read and seen, I think there is a combination of issues going on. This may sound stupid but I found upgrading to thicker Mobil 1 drastically reduced or eliminated tensioner issues & valve train clatter. I think the seals in the tensioner get lazy with 0w oil(too thin), and not all the time which makes it difficult to diagnose. I run 15w-50 in our 01 986 &00 A4(with no oil leaks), and go thinner in the winter. :cheers:

I just replaced the front & rear pads & rotors on our 01 (2.7) with factory parts and the front pads were stamped Brembo, the rears were Textar. PBR are garbage, poor casting and fit. Pagids are a hit or miss, lately I've noticed there castings are not nearly as good as they used to be but I would take them over Mintex. If your going to track the car , then Porterfields are fairly good. :cheers:

Give the trans a chance to warm up. Downshfting into 1st is hard on the gearbox, unless your going exceedingly slow. You might try flushing the clutch fluid and changing the gearbox oil. It really improves the shifting in cold weather(and warm). :cheers:

As always, thanks Loren. It will be nice having a fresh set of brakes on the car. :clapping:

I'm about to replace the rotors and pads all the way around on our 2001(2.7) 986. I thought the torque spec was 63 ft. lbs. Does someone know if thats correct? Thanks for any comments. I wish Porsche would start publishing the manual set again. :cheers:

My picks would be for all-round driving:

1# Michelin Pilot Sports

2# Bridgestone S-02

3#Conti

:cheers:

Unfortunately, I'm in central NJ. In March/April(warmer weather) I was planning on replacing the pads, rotors/sensors(already have them), oil change, plugs, and filters on our 01(2.7). Sounds like a decent idea though.