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por911

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Everything posted by por911

  1. Was thinking of a garage clean out session(too many tech manuals). Thought I would pose the question here since some might have a better idea then myself. Any inputs would be greatly appreciated. The set is complete with all the updated that Porsche printed out, or published. It was difficult getting some of the last ones. Thanks again. regards
  2. You might consider checking your drive line mounts(ie trans, motor). I had similar issues awhile back when doing the 997 shifter install, and found I needed to replace all(3) of the mounts, as they had collapsed. There was also a "break-in" period of about 500-1000 miles where the shifter then really smoothed out. Shifts are very positive, precise, and more direct now. You might keep the original scribes on the cables until you replace the mounts putting the motor and trans in it's original alignment position. You'll find the cables should just drop right in, or be off a thread either way. You can adjust to see what works best for you. Best of luck. regards
  3. Correct...o-ring does the whole left/ right bank come out at one time or just one injector at a time...is this easy to do...hate to start and take longer than I have that day....thanks You'll lift out one bank or side at a time. It's worth replacing both, upper and lower o-rings while in there. It has been some time since I replaced ours, but one side was particularly challenging to access(passenger maybe). Make sure you note or scribe the depth at which the o-ring and injector is set into the head. There is another ring slot that the seal can go on which might screw up the setting. Other then that, its fairly straight forward. The task took me the day, but I'm getting old. You'll be surprised how much better the car runs(and starts) afterwards. regards
  4. If it has not been done yet, especially with that type of mileage, you might consider upgrading to the 997 shifter housing. I found the bushings in our 01 were fairly worn by 55k. Its also worth checking the driveline mounts as they can really effect the shifting. I've replaced all of ours already and saw big improvements. It might be time to flush the clutch hydralic fluid(pentosin DOT4) and change the gearoil. regards
  5. You might need the updated ignition lock/switch assembly. When ours went, it did exactly the same thing yours is doing. Having said that, you might also check to see if your immobilizor under the driver's seat is wet, or faulty. regards
  6. Here are some upgrades or hacks I've done to the families 01 base you might be interested in for your car: -997 shifter housing install -996 heat exchanger/oil cooler -GT3 3rd rad install -Fabspeed cat bypass pipes -De-snork the intake -installed a 03/04 "S" muffler -you might consider upgrading the drive train mounts, especially the motor as Porsche has improved it. -upgraded to new style AOS Well, you get the idea. Best of luck with the car. regards
  7. You might see if one pops up on CL or ebay, as they seem to every now and then for about $100-200. The manual is definitely more informative then your regular Bentley version by far. They run into alot of how to's for the diagnostic procedures as well as the paths and routes to look at. regards
  8. I have a copy of the factory Boxster OBD II Manual. What exactly are you looking for in it? It is probably more applicable to 97-99 models as it goes through alot of diagnostics for that troublesome secondary emission system that porsche carried over from the 993. Having said , its got some interesting stuff in it. regards
  9. I found the mounts were pretty much shot on our 01 base around 40k. The signs(vibrations, poor shifting, etc) were definitely there at 30k. You might though, run through some ancillaries(TB, plugs, fuel & air filters, updated aos, etc..) to make sure the car is as smooth as it can be and you have a decent basis to work off of for diagnostics. I replaced the front mount at 42k and the trans mounts about 10k later, and should have done them all at the same time. regards
  10. The standard version of the 997 shifter definitely shortens the throw compared to the old 986 housing. The new housing(997 std) is strikingly different, much tighter and the throws are more precise, whereas the old housing was vague and lacked precision. I just could not justify the extra $300 or so for the short shifter version. For $200 or so dollars though, I feel it was a no-brainer of an upgrade on the car. regards
  11. The cables have a tendency to move, either when you pull them up to remove them from the housing itself, or tension within the positioning of the cables themselves. You might luck out, but its probably best to mark or scribe them to be sure of a proper setting. With the cables installed, I had 4 open threads showing behind the blue cable end, and 3 showing on the black end. Good to see another Islander on the board. I spend the summer in the southern gulf islands. regards
  12. The light just unplugs(connector underneath). Just cover the end and wire/zip tie the connector off so it does not get caught up in the e-brake mechanism. regards
  13. Sharp eyes, yes I moved it over previously. Here is the part # 997-424-010-00 for the shifter housing as a reference. It would be interesting to compare the GT3/RS version to this one. regards
  14. Well, it took me a couple hours due to being exceedingly carefull pulling all the plastic console bits and hardware. Was it worth it, totally, yes. Just to give others a basis of where/what I am working off from is a base 01 986 with 55k on it, no agressive driving either(no track, DE, autoX, etc). The car also has had new driveline mounts installed in the last 5k The new 997 shifter housing is the one on the left with the green shifter alignment tool(comes with housing) on it. It was surprising how much play was in the old housing considering the miles were relatively low. It's important to mark and or scribe the shifter cables effectively when disconnecting them from the older shifter. The shifting is much tighter and more precise with the 997 shifter, gear changes are much shorter. It gives the car a much sportier feel and makes it much more friendly to use. The other had a vagueness that is gone. So much more is transferred through the new unit and I say that in a positive way. Here is a pic of the new shifter installed, sans the console and bits. It was nice actually to have the whole thing apart to clean out the area(vacuum, wipe down plastic bits/console, etc.). Hope this helps others. regards
  15. You might check your motor mount(console, see pic-bad mount with 50k on it) first. Porsche has improved the part and they seem to be much improved now. Its also worth checking your trans mounts as they have a tendency to collapse over time and let the drivetrain slop around. regards
  16. Our shifter was moving around a bit, and frankly felt a tade loose until I changed out the drivetrain mounts(motor and trans). In a month or so, I'll install a 997 shifter housing and see how that improves things. I was mildly surprised how much the trans mounts made a difference(shifter felt tighter, improved gear changes, etc.). regards
  17. I changed ours out not long after replacing the motor mount(console), at about 50+k. It made a fair bit of difference(improved shifting, less drivetrain movement, virtually eliminated all vibrations/noises/rattles, etc.). Ours were not leaking but they had collasped at least .5-.75 of and inch. They were somewhat pricey at about $200 a piece. Its not a bad DIY, but if menory serves me, the passenger side trans mount is a bit of a bear to R&R(read:very tight). regards
  18. There are 3 mounts, 1 motor and 2 trans mounts. I'd start with the motor first. Porsche has upgraded the part and has improved it over the older version. If you go under the car with due caution, you might be able to see the cracking. Its tight in there though. regards
  19. We replaced all of them(motor mount/console , trans mounts) on the families 01 base around 50k. They were shot, and the cars see no agressive type(autoX, track, etc.) driving either. The difference was like night and day afterwards. Before, the drivetrain felt like it was shifting around. The car is more solid and connected now, eliminated alot of vibrations, noises, shifter slop. I was somewhat hesitant at first on the trans mounts, but after doing some measurements, found the originals had collapsed but not started to leak yet. The motor mount was cracked and starting to separate. They are not too bad of a DIY task. regards
  20. Getting the car level(without a lift) and getting the proper gear oil level in the gearbox can be mildly difficult for the diyer. You might check the level again. When we were having shifting issues I did the following : 1)replaced trans and motor mounts- Right away, shifting was much better, even when the car was new. We could notice the drivetrain did not have nearly as much slop. 2)changed gearbox oil with Porsches factory fill- Much smoother afterwards, especially in cold mornings. 3)flushed clutch fluid- Greatly improved actuation and performance, not nearly as grabby, launch is smooth. My next planned mod/improvement is the installation of a 997 shifter housing. Hope this helps. regards
  21. You might check to see if its throwing any codes(DTC's). If the car has not had the fuel filter replaced in the last 30k, you might consider doing so. Its also worth checking the fuel pressures along with the upper and lower injectors seals. I replaced the seal on our 01 at about 50k. regards
  22. At 120k, an AOS replacement would not surprise me at all, but you might get a read(ie durametric software or equivalent) of the DTC's off the car's ECU. Having said that, the ignition switch assembly failed on our 01 without emitting any DTC's. You might suggest your tech also check the clutch switch(or brake switch if tip). regards
  23. If the ignition switch was replaced with an "old style" audi/vw type, then its probably failed again. If its the switch, you might consider replacing it with Porsche's upgraded lock cylinder/switch assembly(about $120 for the part). Its also worth checking the switch at the clutch but I doubt its that one. regards
  24. You might check Sunset Porsche in oregon. Standard shipping is usually only a day away, and their pricing is pretty competitive. It's probably worth getting a new bleeder valve along with a cap when you replace the tank. Its also worth checking the pump while your in servicing the coolant system. If you've drained the coolant, you might consider upgrading the oil cooler(heat exchanger) to the 996 version. It really helps to handle the stop&go traffic and summer heat. regards
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