There is a bulletin from Porsche about relocating the ground for the drivers airbag/ seatbelt buckle circuit because of this fault. Search for that. 

Simple first.  check for a leak at oil filler. Or dip stick or fuel filler any vacuum leak can cause rough idle. 

There is a small circuit board inside the door latch mechanism that after repeated closing results in a solder joint breaking causing intermittent faults. With some online research and some tinkering it is possible to break open the mechanism and resolder it. 

Saves a lot of money as the mechanism is expensive. 

Looks like it. Connector for rear window defroster when installing hardtop   

Could be a problem with the door lock mechanism. 

There are micro switches in it that control the window. 

The closing of the door shakes the circuit board and over time can break a solder joint or wire affecting the ops of the window. 

Often intermittent so difficult to track down. 

Happened to me, the window would start going up and down on its own.

Search door lock repair. You can take it apart and resolder a loose connection. Or replace lock. Get in there and wiggle the wires to see if that is the source of the problem. 

Hope this helps. 

Just a reminder my 1997 Boxster does not have solenoid operated release. The levers operate cable pulls. Try and find emergency release cables front one should be under neath right fender liner. I forget where rear one is.


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WINDOW LIFT CABLE / REGULATOR PORSCHE 996 / BOXSTER 986 (PART NO. 99654207504 / 99654207604)

I think you should replace it.  It is probably 16 years old. 

The door lock mechanism is another high failure item inside the door. It's not related to your current snag but there is a circuit board that the soldered wires break as the wire flexes each time the door is closed. It can cause lots of intermittent problems such as window not going down ½" when handle lifted. 

If you've had this happen you could replace that while you are in there. 

I'm speaking from experience. 

1997 boxster. 

Hi

I have a 97 and the electrical connection inside the door to the drivers lock mechanism has caused me trouble for example sometimes when I pull the outside or inside handle the window doesn't drop. I have to go to pax side put in key and lower window to get in. After taking the door panel off I reach in and wiggle the wire harness going to the lock and I can tell there is a bad connection at the lock. The window goes down, up , down red light on the lock button on the dash flashes all because the contact isn't secure. I have cleaned the female conn for on the wire harness and I can make it work but I need to get in there and fix it properly. I think I am going to replace the lock mechanism as it been used a lot in 20 years.

I found some good info for troubleshooting.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock.htm

I had a coolant leak from the vacuum operated electric changeover valve that controls the coolant flow to the rad for the tip. It is located on the left rear near the shift linkage. Yours might not be opening.

Adam

I can't tell from your pictures but a common leak is the Air Oil Separator on the passenger side.

Loren I observed -1.0 for the Spec air adaption with no change with rpm

Any idea what could cause this deviation from nominal.

I have been getting  fault codes P0410 and P1411 for the secondary air injection.

The pump runs ON STARTUP when the engine is cold then shuts off.

But the pump sometimes comes back on after driving when I come to a stop and idle.

This turns on the Check engine light sometimes.

I have changed the MAF and the O2 sensors.

They both look like they are operating normal on the Durametric Actual Values

Hi I have a 1997 Boxster tiptronic and I was looking at actual values with a Durametric tool and with engine warmed up at idle the Spec. Air Mass of 15.5 Kg/h seems normal but the Spec. air adaption reads -1.0 Kg/h and is not right as the manual says 1.5 is normal.

Any idea what can cause this?

RobR

I would like to do the same thing and I did read someone did it. It might have been on one of the other Boxster boards.

What I read was that you just have to unscrew the Porsche socket disconnect the wires and screw in a generic USA one that is a bit deeper.

I haven't looked at how to get at it so if someone has done this please reply.

Garth

I've come to the determination that my cigarette lighter plug isn't deep enough to actually use any normal charging devices in it, and I'd like to replace it with a standard depth one. Any ideas?

Thanks!

Steve

I am interested in what you did to resolve your muffler issue.

Today I removed my NHP muffler and reinstalled the stock muffler.

My dilemma is that the stock muffler is too restrictive and the NHP muffler is too loud for normal driving.

With the NHP muffler unless we are driving flat out there is a "drone" that is very loud whenever we are cruising or steady state driving in the 2750 to 4000 rpm range.

I have a stock 1997 Stuttgart 2.5l (Silver with red leather) with NHP headers and cats. EVO cold air box and dry cone filter.

regards

Garth Harrington

Answered elsewhere.

Thanks.

I agree with mckinlay.

I can overpower the grip of the tire to the road almost any time with the stock 1997 brakes. I just can't do it 10 times a lap! I thought about upgrading to S brakes but it was going to be expensive. I haven't tracked the car yet, maybe someday. I did get new Zimmerman cad plated (to prevent rusty hubs) drilled rotors and Mintex pads. I am very happy with the performance. (S brakes are a bit heavier if you worry about that) If I came across a good set for a reasonable price I might upgrade them next time I needed new wheels/tires.

1997 2.5L

I forgot to add that Maurice's links are where I started and are very good.

I have a 1997 and had the same problem. I used the Bentley manual to troubleshoot and I believe the problem might be caused by the cable that operates the system stretching over time. I got the impression that it is one of the more common "snags" Since I could see nothing broken I checked all the adjustments but couldn't improve it. I tried to repair it by adding spacers and clamps to take up the slack while I waited for a new regulator but it didn't work.

I priced out several parts suppliers and found Sunset to be the cheapest $184.18 + freight. Their link is at the top Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost.

I also ordered some new plastic clips that hold on the inside door panel P/N 999 507 582 40 white clips, I think they are 0.25 cents each and there are 6 on the panel, I only had to replace 2. I marked where all the adjustments were and put the window back in the same place and when I tested it it was within the range described in the manual and worked just like new. The only scary part was tightening the clamps that hold the glass. I used a torque wrench and trusted the manual to tighten to 7 lb/ft If I remember correctly which seemed like too much doing it by hand.

Thanks to this forum it was another job that was completed successfully and it works like new! I believe it would have cost $1000 dollars at a dealer (nearest one where I live is 400 miles away!) not including getting there but I got it fixed for $200 and a few hours of time.

Garth

I replaced

Hey Everyone,

I have a 2001 boxster that recently started having an issues with the window drop down feature on the driver's side. When I open the door, the window will not roll down a little bit like it should to prevent catching the glass on the top. I then have to push it down a little bit before closing it. However, it will roll back up when it closes. I've been working on this issues for a few hours now and I am totally stumped. Does anyone have any idea how to fix it?

Thanks

Unfortunately, the symptoms that you describe can most probably only be fixed by replacing the window regulator. The fact that you CAN push it down a little bit makes it almost a certainty.

Here is a link that contains some helpful hints on the window regulator replacement, including how not to set off the airbag light: http://www.renntech....h__1#entry99100

Here is a link to good instructions on removing and replacing the door panel, etc...: http://www.bombaydig...rojects/window/

Regards, Maurice.

I have a 1997 and had the same problem. I used the Bentley manual to troubleshoot and I believe the problem might be caused by the cable that operates the system stretching over time. I got the impression that it is one of the more common "snags" Since I could see nothing broken I checked all the adjustments but couldn't improve it. I tried to repair it by adding spacers and clamps to take up the slack while I waited for a new regulator but it didn't work.

I priced out several parts suppliers and found Sunset to be the cheapest $184.18 + freight. Their link is at the top Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost.

I also ordered some new plastic clips that hold on the inside door panel P/N 999 507 582 40 white clips, I think they are 0.25 cents each and there are 6 on the panel, I only had to replace 2. I marked where all the adjustments were and put the window back in the same place and when I tested it it was within the range described in the manual and worked just like new. The only scary part was tightening the clamps that hold the glass. I used a torque wrench and trusted the manual to tighten to 7 lb/ft If I remember correctly which seemed like too much doing it by hand.

Thanks to this forum it was another job that was completed successfully and it works like new! I believe it would have cost $1000 dollars at a dealer (nearest one where I live is 400 miles away!) not including getting there but I got it fixed for $200 and a few hours of time.

Garth

I replaced

Hey Everyone,

I have a 2001 boxster that recently started having an issues with the window drop down feature on the driver's side. When I open the door, the window will not roll down a little bit like it should to prevent catching the glass on the top. I then have to push it down a little bit before closing it. However, it will roll back up when it closes. I've been working on this issues for a few hours now and I am totally stumped. Does anyone have any idea how to fix it?

Thanks

Unfortunately, the symptoms that you describe can most probably only be fixed by replacing the window regulator. The fact that you CAN push it down a little bit makes it almost a certainty.

Here is a link that contains some helpful hints on the window regulator replacement, including how not to set off the airbag light: http://www.renntech....h__1#entry99100

Here is a link to good instructions on removing and replacing the door panel, etc...: http://www.bombaydig...rojects/window/

Regards, Maurice.

mike here is a link to a writeup on Litronic install,

http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Porsche/L...s_Starting.html

I installed a set on a 1997. They work without any speacial wiring. However if you want to have them rotate up with high beam you must install the control box.

Porsche has a tech bulletin that explains it all.

http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Porsche/L...tions/9415.html

Garth

Hello,

I have noticed that whenever I drive my car over a dirt road (parking spaces), some fan under the car (in the front) makes a HUGE amount of dust, so much that everyone starts staring, the car gets so dirty, and I get to the point of suffocation if I don't have the windows closed.

I understand that these cars are not designed to be driven in such places, but it is inevitable in my part of the world.

Is this normal? Any fixes/remedies?

Best,

Krypt

With my '97 Tip the front fans are on high (2 speed electric cooling fans) whenever the A/C is on; if the car is not hot I can turn off the A/C and the fans go off. I always forget to do this until a cloud of dust engulfs me! When the climate control is on "Auto" the A/C defaults to "on" so I turn it off when I dont need it by pushing the button with a snowflake symbol on it.

Garth

! year late but for others searching the archives.The rubber bushings might be 986 561 881 00 from Bentley manual page 357

Garth

hi Thanks to Mike Focke there is good info about MAF here

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/checkeng...ssairflowsensor

Norm

No help just in the same situation with First winter for our 97 2.5l Tiptronic in the garage on SilverStar Mtn. BC. We have it covered but no battery charger yet. Last run 1 week ago. Plan on monitoring the battery. I would guess that if you run it every week long enough to recharge the battery that it wouldn't need a charger . I have a battery charger but it is noisy and uses a lot of power even when it is not charging(cooling fan) I need to get a battery maintainer type of charger. I will look up CTEK Multi US 3300 smart charger and read about it.

Thanks

Garth

Maybe this link to O2 sensorn info will answer your question.

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/oxygensensors

Garth

WHOOPS!,

Sorry,

I'll pick up a set from Sunrise!

regards

Garth