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About amegarth

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 11/27/1947

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Porsche Boxster, Skiing, Scuba, Helicopters (Profession), Sailing (Multihulls), Astronomy, Photography

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  • From
    Silver Star Mtn., (Vernon) BC Canada
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    1997 Boxster 2.5L Tiptronic, Arctic Silver 17" Wheels, Nitto Motivo, Pre alarm system, door airbags, assembled in Stuttgart, Red leather interior, date of manufacture, July 1997.
  • Future cars
  • Former cars
    Mostly pick up trucks

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  1. There is a bulletin from Porsche about relocating the ground for the drivers airbag/ seatbelt buckle circuit because of this fault. Search for that.
  2. Simple first. check for a leak at oil filler. Or dip stick or fuel filler any vacuum leak can cause rough idle.
  3. There is a small circuit board inside the door latch mechanism that after repeated closing results in a solder joint breaking causing intermittent faults. With some online research and some tinkering it is possible to break open the mechanism and resolder it. Saves a lot of money as the mechanism is expensive.
  4. Looks like it. Connector for rear window defroster when installing hardtop
  5. Could be a problem with the door lock mechanism. There are micro switches in it that control the window. The closing of the door shakes the circuit board and over time can break a solder joint or wire affecting the ops of the window. Often intermittent so difficult to track down. Happened to me, the window would start going up and down on its own. Search door lock repair. You can take it apart and resolder a loose connection. Or replace lock. Get in there and wiggle the wires to see if that is the source of the problem. Hope this helps.
  6. Just a reminder my 1997 Boxster does not have solenoid operated release. The levers operate cable pulls. Try and find emergency release cables front one should be under neath right fender liner. I forget where rear one is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. WINDOW LIFT CABLE / REGULATOR PORSCHE 996 / BOXSTER 986 (PART NO. 99654207504 / 99654207604) I think you should replace it. It is probably 16 years old. The door lock mechanism is another high failure item inside the door. It's not related to your current snag but there is a circuit board that the soldered wires break as the wire flexes each time the door is closed. It can cause lots of intermittent problems such as window not going down ½" when handle lifted. If you've had this happen you could replace that while you are in there. I'm speaking from experience. 199
  8. I had the exact same problem as described below. After removing the Door Lock Mechanism I took it apart (took pictures of how it was before disassembly) I had the same cracked solder joint as shown. I resoldered all 6 connections and reassembled the unit, tested by plugging in and then reinstalled. The door lock/window mechanism is working as it was designed. I copied this post from Pelican Boxster forum. SOLUTION for the Doorlock failure before you buy new mechanism After posting about my windows doing the usual popping up and down, I was planning to replace my door latch mechanisms,
  9. Hi I have a 97 and the electrical connection inside the door to the drivers lock mechanism has caused me trouble for example sometimes when I pull the outside or inside handle the window doesn't drop. I have to go to pax side put in key and lower window to get in. After taking the door panel off I reach in and wiggle the wire harness going to the lock and I can tell there is a bad connection at the lock. The window goes down, up , down red light on the lock button on the dash flashes all because the contact isn't secure. I have cleaned the female conn for on the wire harness and I can make it
  10. I had a coolant leak from the vacuum operated electric changeover valve that controls the coolant flow to the rad for the tip. It is located on the left rear near the shift linkage. Yours might not be opening.
  11. Adam I can't tell from your pictures but a common leak is the Air Oil Separator on the passenger side.
  12. Loren I observed -1.0 for the Spec air adaption with no change with rpm Any idea what could cause this deviation from nominal. I have been getting fault codes P0410 and P1411 for the secondary air injection. The pump runs ON STARTUP when the engine is cold then shuts off. But the pump sometimes comes back on after driving when I come to a stop and idle. This turns on the Check engine light sometimes. I have changed the MAF and the O2 sensors. They both look like they are operating normal on the Durametric Actual Values
  13. Hi I have a 1997 Boxster tiptronic and I was looking at actual values with a Durametric tool and with engine warmed up at idle the Spec. Air Mass of 15.5 Kg/h seems normal but the Spec. air adaption reads -1.0 Kg/h and is not right as the manual says 1.5 is normal. Any idea what can cause this?
  14. RobR I would like to do the same thing and I did read someone did it. It might have been on one of the other Boxster boards. What I read was that you just have to unscrew the Porsche socket disconnect the wires and screw in a generic USA one that is a bit deeper. I haven't looked at how to get at it so if someone has done this please reply. Garth
  15. Steve I am interested in what you did to resolve your muffler issue. Today I removed my NHP muffler and reinstalled the stock muffler. My dilemma is that the stock muffler is too restrictive and the NHP muffler is too loud for normal driving. With the NHP muffler unless we are driving flat out there is a "drone" that is very loud whenever we are cruising or steady state driving in the 2750 to 4000 rpm range. I have a stock 1997 Stuttgart 2.5l (Silver with red leather) with NHP headers and cats. EVO cold air box and dry cone filter. regards Garth Harrington
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