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Could be a problem with the door lock mechanism. There are micro switches in it that control the window. The closing of the door shakes the circuit board and over time can break a solder joint or wire affecting the ops of the window. Often intermittent so difficult to track down. Happened to me, the window would start going up and down on its own. Search door lock repair. You can take it apart and resolder a loose connection. Or replace lock. Get in there and wiggle the wires to see if that is the source of the problem. Hope this helps.
Just a reminder my 1997 Boxster does not have solenoid operated release. The levers operate cable pulls. Try and find emergency release cables front one should be under neath right fender liner. I forget where rear one is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
WINDOW LIFT CABLE / REGULATOR PORSCHE 996 / BOXSTER 986 (PART NO. 99654207504 / 99654207604) I think you should replace it. It is probably 16 years old. The door lock mechanism is another high failure item inside the door. It's not related to your current snag but there is a circuit board that the soldered wires break as the wire flexes each time the door is closed. It can cause lots of intermittent problems such as window not going down ½" when handle lifted. If you've had this happen you could replace that while you are in there. I'm speaking from experience. 1997 boxster.
I had the exact same problem as described below. After removing the Door Lock Mechanism I took it apart (took pictures of how it was before disassembly) I had the same cracked solder joint as shown. I resoldered all 6 connections and reassembled the unit, tested by plugging in and then reinstalled. The door lock/window mechanism is working as it was designed. I copied this post from Pelican Boxster forum. SOLUTION for the Doorlock failure before you buy new mechanism After posting about my windows doing the usual popping up and down, I was planning to replace my door latch mechanisms, as this is the solution everyone has posted here. Once I took the bad one out of the driver's door and still attached to power, I noticed, if you twist or move the harness that the latch would work. I thought at first it was bad contacts, but it wasn't. I decided to see what really happens. Of course this is not necessarily what happens to all out there... I spent an extra few minutes to see where the failure was. If you remove the 8 Torx screws that hold the cover on the translucent part of the mechanism, the unit comes apart nicely.(6 x T10s on the face, 1 T10 on the edge, and the 1 T20 on the side). Also remove the brass spring on the face (not sprung very tightly). Inside, you find a couple of plastic gears and a circuit board. (don' worry, nothing will pop out or get lost) Remove the circuit board and check the solder points where the harness attaches. On both of my doors, the only solder that had a tiny hairline crack in it was the circuit that leads to the micro switches. Simply soldered the one contact and all is as good as new. I believe the problem is with the repeated closing of the doors, as the solder joint on this spot on the circuit board isn't supported by anything. So every time the door is slammed and the wire wiggles, it torques the joints. I didn't have to spend $320 for 2 new mechanisms Here is a photo of the circuit board after removing it from the cover and turning it over. You can clearly see the faulty connection on the solder (bottom-right of the 6). That was enough to cause the failure.
Hi I have a 97 and the electrical connection inside the door to the drivers lock mechanism has caused me trouble for example sometimes when I pull the outside or inside handle the window doesn't drop. I have to go to pax side put in key and lower window to get in. After taking the door panel off I reach in and wiggle the wire harness going to the lock and I can tell there is a bad connection at the lock. The window goes down, up , down red light on the lock button on the dash flashes all because the contact isn't secure. I have cleaned the female conn for on the wire harness and I can make it work but I need to get in there and fix it properly. I think I am going to replace the lock mechanism as it been used a lot in 20 years. I found some good info for troubleshooting. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock.htm
I had a coolant leak from the vacuum operated electric changeover valve that controls the coolant flow to the rad for the tip. It is located on the left rear near the shift linkage. Yours might not be opening.
Adam I can't tell from your pictures but a common leak is the Air Oil Separator on the passenger side.
Loren I observed -1.0 for the Spec air adaption with no change with rpm Any idea what could cause this deviation from nominal. I have been getting fault codes P0410 and P1411 for the secondary air injection. The pump runs ON STARTUP when the engine is cold then shuts off. But the pump sometimes comes back on after driving when I come to a stop and idle. This turns on the Check engine light sometimes. I have changed the MAF and the O2 sensors. They both look like they are operating normal on the Durametric Actual Values
Hi I have a 1997 Boxster tiptronic and I was looking at actual values with a Durametric tool and with engine warmed up at idle the Spec. Air Mass of 15.5 Kg/h seems normal but the Spec. air adaption reads -1.0 Kg/h and is not right as the manual says 1.5 is normal. Any idea what can cause this?
RobR I would like to do the same thing and I did read someone did it. It might have been on one of the other Boxster boards. What I read was that you just have to unscrew the Porsche socket disconnect the wires and screw in a generic USA one that is a bit deeper. I haven't looked at how to get at it so if someone has done this please reply. Garth
Steve I am interested in what you did to resolve your muffler issue. Today I removed my NHP muffler and reinstalled the stock muffler. My dilemma is that the stock muffler is too restrictive and the NHP muffler is too loud for normal driving. With the NHP muffler unless we are driving flat out there is a "drone" that is very loud whenever we are cruising or steady state driving in the 2750 to 4000 rpm range. I have a stock 1997 Stuttgart 2.5l (Silver with red leather) with NHP headers and cats. EVO cold air box and dry cone filter. regards Garth Harrington
I agree with mckinlay. I can overpower the grip of the tire to the road almost any time with the stock 1997 brakes. I just can't do it 10 times a lap! I thought about upgrading to S brakes but it was going to be expensive. I haven't tracked the car yet, maybe someday. I did get new Zimmerman cad plated (to prevent rusty hubs) drilled rotors and Mintex pads. I am very happy with the performance. (S brakes are a bit heavier if you worry about that) If I came across a good set for a reasonable price I might upgrade them next time I needed new wheels/tires. 1997 2.5L
The 97 Boxster is in for new paint after a full NHP exhaust system and a EVO intake mod.What's on your mind?
Hello I bought this 1997 986 2.5l tiptronic 3 summers ago for Joanne's birthday and since I am her mechanic and husband she lets me drive it whenever I want which is all the time! What a fun car to drive we both love it.