atta

I second trying to move the coil packs. How is your idle? Since you have installed a CAI I would also look close at the entire air intake. Air leaks in the intake can cause misfire codes. Go over all the tubes, clamps, etc - clean them out and check for leaks.

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/Clean...y%20%20%20.html

A.

I have a Moaning/whistling sound coming from the gas filler compartment, I have no clue what it is, has anybody heard of this? I have a 2003 Boxster S

Thanks

Sounds like the On-board Fuel Vapor Recovery system (ORVR) . There is a vent tube (to the right of the gas cap when you open the gas filler compartment) that is designed to suck gas fumes into the EVAP canister (I believe?) while refueling.

This thread mentions the same symptoms and suggest the fix is a new carbon control valve, part 996 605 213 01:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6332

Here is a thread about removing the EVAP (carbon) canister.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13955

Atle

Can bus wires are nothing special, just a twisted wire pair. CAT5/6 cable is a good source for twisted pair wire.

-Todd

Impressive. Looking at this from the opposite end, what is needed to add the dot matrix cluster to a 99? New HVAC? And ABS-controller? Or does it need to communicate with the DME?

Atle

I have an 01 Boxster that has been a great car with almost no problems. Last week I came back from a drive and when I opened the drivers door to exit the car, I heard a "pop" sound. The inside handle stays about half way open and the window stays down about half an inch. I can close the handle and window by pushing the handle closed. I have not pulled the door panel yet but assume there is a spring in the door that keeps the handle tight. I do most of the work on my Boxster and would like to repair this also. Is this something fairly easy that requires no special tools?

Yes, there is a spring that attaches to the inside door handle. It's probably an easy fix. Here are some great instructions on door panel removal: http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

I have borrowed one of the pictures and highlighted the spring.

Atle

Atle:

This is NOT normal. The entire assembly can be replaced, and it is not expensive.

However, since it's a relatively easy DIY, with easy access, buy the O-rings first and change those out. If you inspect the diaphram and gaskets and they are serviceable it will be a very inexpensive repair. If you still get condensation or leaking/residue, then you can change the entire assembly.

The only caution with this repair is to be very careful not to overtighten those long, thin bolts. They can easily shear off, and then it's likely you will need a whole new coolant tank.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks. Is changing the entire assembly the same amount of work as just changing the o-rings?

Looks like a very straight forward DIY. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=14754

Atle

Atle:

If you have a new coolant cap and you are still getting condensation on the underside of the trunk lid, the problem is definitely in the bleeder valve assembly. It's either the o-rings or one of the two rubber gaskets that you will find in there. Sometimes the rubber gaskets get "warped" or get a pinhole in them.

There was a write up on PPBB.com, with photos and part numbers. If I find the link, I'll post it here.

Regards, Maurice.

It was not easy to get my non-macro lens to capture this, but as you can see there is a lot of yellow residue around the bleeder assembly. Better change out the o-rings and gaskets - and perhaps the entire assembly if its not too expensive? The residue looks yellow, as does the coolant. Is this normal?

Atle

Far be it for me to question Loren. :soapbox: But I'm doing my 5k mile oil change this month and will be using 5W-40.

You'll have to scroll down this link to get to the key parts. And read a lot on the LN Engineering research from Charles Navarro. Including the question "Why consider diesel oil in a gas engine?"

I must admit that the article from LN Engineering went right over my head. Here in Europe, Porsche dealers use Mobile 1 5W-50 Rally Formula (w/Supersyn Antiwear) on our Boxsters. I have not seen much mention of this oil. I know, from this and other articles, that higher numbers does not make it a better fit. How is this oil regarded among the experts?

A.

Just remember, They have to check the old cap and make sure that it is defective. I proved it by showing them the mist on the bottom of my trunk lid.

Hi, I also have this mist (condensation), even after I replaced my cap with a new 03 version. From my research on this board ( :renntech: ) this could be caused by worn o-rings on the bleeder valve housing. I have yet to verify that this is what is causing this on my car, but just wanted to let you guys know that the condensation could have other causes than a bad cap.

Atle

I just read the TSB titled "Noises in the convertible top". It has tons of fixes for a lot of different sources of noises related to the top. 13 to be exact. The TSB is located under the "DIY Menu" and is accessible to contributing members. If the ratteling is from the front, be sure to also take a look at TSB "Rattling noises from the cabriolet top".

Atle

Tighten the locating lugs for the roof to windscreen joint (there are two Torx screws and this part secures the sun visors too)

Be careful to don't over tighten. The nuts in the window frame are made of brass and easily destroyed.

A.

Wow !.....:eek: "cant see the allure of hearing the induction" ? :unsure: Doesn't sound like you drive her hard enough bro ! - and that's not good for her! :P

To each his own, and I don't mean to attack, just poke a little fun - but there is nothing more inspiring than hearing that beautiful sound from one of these engines ! :thumbup:

Could not agree more. I have desnorkled (big improvement) and installed a BMC airfilter (small improvement). Do you know if an EVO setup would improve sound wise on this configuration?

Thanks. :)

Atle

Quick update. Everything works perfectly. And one touch operation is very nice. :)

I did have one issue left to resolve. When the top was closed and I latched/locked it with the handle, the convertible top light came back on.

The only thing I could see that would cause this, is that the type A relay had two signals comming from the latch microswitch, top locked and top unlocked, while the new relay only use the top unlocked signal. The pin for this signal is not used on the type B relay. The SmartTOP relay I use did not like this signal however, as cutting the wire solved the issue. :)

So: Brown wire with blue stripe on in, pin 1/4 on the relay, needs to be cut (or the pin bendt on the relay) - at least with a SmartTOP relay.

Atle

There is a starting point in the factory manual for setting the V-levers, which involves taking a measurement from one of the steel balls on one end of the V-lever to a spot near the rail on which the body colored arm of the clamshell slides back and forth.

"distance from compartment lid link pivot at drive lever to top of convertible top compartment lid gasket" 195 +-0,5 mm.

That is from the center of the ball on the rear arm that connects to the clamshel,l to the top of the black gasket the clamshell rests on.

This is probably a good possition to start, but really the only thing that matters is that both V-levers are equal/in sync. So meassure anywhere you want, and just make sure they are the same. ;)

Atle

Atle:

Excellent work! :clapping: And thanks for the wire color information.

I have a "spare" B-pillar microswitch and I will look into adapting that one if the source I am supposed to be getting the connector from does not materialize.

I don't understand why the "top unlocked" signal wire has to be moved from pin 1/9 to pin 2/4 if you are using the later version top relay. Is that related to the fact that you are using a SmarTop relay?

It's going to be a pleasure to not have to worry about doing the "chop" or cracking the vinyl window if it's too cold out!

Regards, Maurice.

Actually, you need the plug that the wire from the B-pillar microswitch mates with. It's behind the b-pillar cover down by the floor.

The "top unlocked" signal (from the top latch microswitch) has probably been relocated so that a type A relay would not be put in a car that requires a type B relay. The after run timer would certainly break something! The way it is set up now, putting an type A relay in a type B vehicle (or the other way around) would not cause any damage - just disable the relay as the "top unlocked" signal is needed for it to operate.

(By the way, the type A relay has a triangle on it and the type B has a square)

Yes - glass window is nice! No more chop. "No more chop" + the comfort features of the SmartTOP relay makes this a nice combination. :)

If I knew how involving this was I would probably have bought an aftermarket glass roof, though. Wish I had researched this site before I bought my box. I would have bought a 00 or later car. A lot of changes from 99 to 00, not to mention the move from 2,5 to 2,7l engine. :(

Atle

99 Boxster with 03 frame and glass roof w/SmartTOP relay. :)

Atle:

Okay, I misunderstood. I thought at first that you were saying that there were microswitches in both of the Version B transmissions.

I'm going to try to splice into the existing wires, but I think it's going to involve splicing into the small harness that comes from the electric motor and the small harness that leads from the old B-Pillar microswitch.

Let me know if you connected your new "custom" harness wires to which specific terminals on the receptacle part of the double relay. I'd like to ohm out my wires (the ones I just mentioned above) to insure that I've got the right ones.

Regards, Maurice.

I disconnected the pushrods and ran the motor a little further than what I have dared to do earlier, and the microswitch works!

Actually, there seems to be no risk of damaging the top by running it too far (the top, probably a different story with the clamshell). The pushrods actually went to the most extended positin and then back a little bit (because of the V-shape it starts to go retract even though the drive moves in the same direction).

Long story short, I spliced in the new wires replacing the old microswitches and moved "top unlock"-signal to the new posisition, inserted the SmartTOP type B relay and everything now works perfect! :)

Here are some notes:

- I think it is a good idea to splice into the wires in the back.

- The plug you need to connect to the transmission is actually the same connector that is used on the wire from the b-pillar microswitch. You just need to add one pin as it only uses two out of the three available. Great news, huh? :)

- When you move the "top unlock"-signal it has a different type of plug. The relay has small pins and large ones. The new possition needs the large type, so it is not just a simple "extract pin and insert in new hole" procedure.

Pins/wires:

- Relay position 1/3 brown with small black stripe goes to pin 1 of new transmission plug (replaces swith on top of the motor)

- Relay position 2/9 brown with small red stripe goes to pin 3 of new transmission plug (replaces B-pillar microswitch)

- Pin 2 of new transmission plug is ground

- "top unlocked"-signal has to be moved from relay position 1/9 to 2/4. It is brown with a grey stripe, and there are two identical wires going into the same pin.

Good luck. :)

Atle

I changed my entire top w/frame on my 99 to one from a 03 with the glass window. This new setup does not work with the B-pilar microswitch. Everything work when I manually push the MS when it should have been triggered.

So I bought a set of the new type transmissions on eBay and a Type B SmartTOP-relay. The other weekend I installed the left side transmission with the microswitch and ran the wires up to relay carrier. The microswitches in the transmission (two) replace the one in the B-pillar (top closed) and the one on top of the motor (top open). To do the switchover I need to replace these to signals and relocate the "top unlocked" signal that has changed its location on the B type relay (probably so that they can not operate if put in a wrong year vehicle).

If took me a while to change out the transmission, so I only did the left side and left the old type tranismission on the right side.

After getting everything back to where I where, everything working using the old microswitches but the new transmission, I hooked up a multimeter to test the new microswitches before I swap over the relay. It looks like the relays now break the connection, and it is broken exactly at the cutout time of the motor. So no longer any delay circuit in the relay.

When I run the top from closed to open "top open" signal goes from closed to open at the same time as the engine stops when I fully open the top. - But I can't get the "top closed" signal to change its state. I have tried pushing in the B-pillar microswitch late (since I now operate it manually) to try to run the transmission further but no luck so far. I'm nervous that I will break something if I try to let the motor/gears run longer than what I have tried so far.

Since I bought the transmissions on eBay I'm nervous that there could be something wrong with the microswitch. Has anyone else had any experience here? Maurice - you are doing this swap as well? What will happen if I run the motor too long when closing the top? Perhaps I could disconnect the v-levers and try to run it further?

Atle

Atle:

I expect to be doing this swap as soon as I can get my hands on the connector and wires that are supposed to replace the B-pillar microswith and that will now plug into the front edge of the driver's side transmission. That is the only part I am missing. AFAIK, there is no microswitch in the Version B (new style, non half-moon gear) passenger's side transmission, even though the factory manual says that is where it is located. Maybe I misunderstood your statement about "the microswitches" and you can clarify this.

The newer top double relay (MY 00 and later) is indispensable if you are doing away with the original "B-Pillar" microswitch and the lever/microswitch that is on top of the electric motor in the older 986's. I believe that the "after-running time" is taken care of in the new relay, instead of depending on the earlier set up of the two aforementioned microswitches.

I would strongly recommend that you not introduce the SmarTop relay into the equation until you get everything sorted out properly. After that time it shouldn't be a problem.

Could you also explain in detail how and what kind of wires you ran "up to the relay carrier". Did you use the factory connector to plug into the edge of the driver's side transmission or did you make up a harness? Maybe some photos of what you did might be easier to help figure it out.

If you run the motor too long when closing the top, you run the risk of exploding/shattering one or both of the plastic ball cups, and/or possibly bending one of the arms of the V-levers. Disconnecting all of the pushrods is a good idea to help sort it out, but don't make the mistake of letting the front pushrods (with the plastic ball cups) dangle from the V-levers when you are operating the top. If you do, you will rip or tear the foam drain pan and end up later with a flooded central alarm control unit, so be careful with that.

If you clarify some of the points here, we can figure it out.

Regards, Maurice.

Microswitches = the left transmission houses two relays, one that triggers when the transmission is at is rearmost position and one at its foremost posisition. These relays replace the b-pilar microswitch and the one on top of the top motor that is pushed down by the clamshell.

Relay = Yes, you definitly will need a new type relay. And I agree that I don't think the new style relays have any "after running time". It looks like the microswitches in the new transmission cut out at the exact time when the engine is to stop.

Wiring-harness = I made one. I found a plug from a BMW wire harness that I had lying around. I think the type of connector is pretty common. Running the wires to the front was easy. One can probably splice into the existing wires at the B-pilar, but then you would have to open up the bundle of wires.

Atle

I changed my entire top w/frame on my 99 to one from a 03 with the glass window. This new setup does not work with the B-pilar microswitch. Everything work when I manually push the MS when it should have been triggered.

So I bought a set of the new type transmissions on eBay and a Type B SmartTOP-relay. The other weekend I installed the left side transmission with the microswitch and ran the wires up to relay carrier. The microswitches in the transmission (two) replace the one in the B-pillar (top closed) and the one on top of the motor (top open). To do the switchover I need to replace these to signals and relocate the "top unlocked" signal that has changed its location on the B type relay (probably so that they can not operate if put in a wrong year vehicle).

If took me a while to change out the transmission, so I only did the left side and left the old type tranismission on the right side.

After getting everything back to where I where, everything working using the old microswitches but the new transmission, I hooked up a multimeter to test the new microswitches before I swap over the relay. It looks like the relays now break the connection, and it is broken exactly at the cutout time of the motor. So no longer any delay circuit in the relay.

When I run the top from closed to open "top open" signal goes from closed to open at the same time as the engine stops when I fully open the top. - But I can't get the "top closed" signal to change its state. I have tried pushing in the B-pillar microswitch late (since I now operate it manually) to try to run the transmission further but no luck so far. I'm nervous that I will break something if I try to let the motor/gears run longer than what I have tried so far.

Since I bought the transmissions on eBay I'm nervous that there could be something wrong with the microswitch. Has anyone else had any experience here? Maurice - you are doing this swap as well? What will happen if I run the motor too long when closing the top? Perhaps I could disconnect the v-levers and try to run it further?

Atle

Just fired up my car after a couple of months in storage. I had to jumpstart using my other car as my portable booster did not have the required power. A lot of smoke when started, but ran fine. Make sure you drive the car for 30 min or so to get all the condensation out of it.

For future reference. Yes, the alarm blocks the button from working. After connecting battery to the fusebox you need to close the door latch (using a screwdriver) and unlock it with the key to enable the hood open button. (At least that is how it works on my 99, but I have a handle and not a button)

Atle

From what I have found out Porsche has two different "alu look" colors (+Artic Silver). The one that came in 03 is also sometimes referred to as "sport silver". I have some parts in this color, and it looks like it does not have a clear on it (interior door handles, airbag badge on doors, the little thing that covers one of the bolts on the door pull bar, dashboard strip, gear and handbrake (+carbon)). I have some additional parts (eg 99 instrument surround) that I would have liked to have in the same color, but are not available from Porsche - so if this is the exact same color as I have then this find would be good news for me. :)

Gert has some alu look parts with pictures:

http://www.carnewal-europe.com/cpx_interior_p96.htm

Atle

Hi,

I just installed this unit in my 98 porsche boxster. The problem is that it seems that the unit does not receive constant power so my settings will go back to factory settings every time I stop the car. I have noticed that my old gps that I used through the sigarette lighter stays on even if I turn of the car.

Is this normal? Maybe someone has switched the cables so the sigarette lighter gets the cable that the avic-d3 is supposed to get

Best Regards

Kay form Norway

Kay.

In the Boxster the cigarette lighter has constant power. You probably have a red and an orange wire going from the ISO-connector into the AVIC. If you look at the wiring diagram one should say constant power and the other would be switched power. Try swapping them around.

Atle

(also in Norway)

Hi.

I had the same issue. CD sound quality OK, radio crap - even with strong signal. But overall bass was too boomy on either. I swapped out the HU with a Kewood DNX8220BT (euro version of DNX8120) recently and the improvement in SQ is unbelievable! Next step will be to install the Porsche High Perfomance Audio System (new amp and improved speakers) i have sitting in a box. I also have a new Bose sub/rear box that I intend to add. But I think I'll leave both in their box until spring...

Atle

The green alignment tool was positioned with the opening towards the left per ATTA’s posting.

I think the green tool is just for the short shift. I got a white tool with my 9x7 standard shifter.

Atle

Great news, and thanks for reporting back. :renntech:

A.

Do you have ANY idea where I could look for top switches for a 2000 Boxster S? Again, none visible (and no extra wires) on the top motor, no switches or wires on or near either transmission, nothing that I can find on or near the clamshell tracks, etc. The wires I mentioned earlier near the drivers left shoulder was the only slight hope, but per your comments this is likely the defogger connection. ( I will also verify this today.)

Hi.

It's on the *left* (drivers) side transmission. I know the manual says it's on the right side, but it is in fact on the left side. Both the switch on top of the motor and the b-pilar switch is now located inside the transmission (3-pin). I have marked the location of the plug on the attached picture. Hope this helps. :)

Atle

On ebay I was watching the system from DSP Motorsports. Is that where you got it?

Yes, that's the one I bought. Have'nt received it yet after 40+ days. The price looked too good to be true, - hope it was not.:(

A.