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atta

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Everything posted by atta

  1. atta
    UPDATE: Got the new tube the other day. Asked the mechanic what could have caused it to fail, and he told me oil could cause a tube to swell and give up. So I cleaned the oil filler tube and now I find traces of fresh oil on it. So that seems to be the culprit. I also noticed the new tube is curved (L-shaped) in a way so that it does not go directly below the oil filler tube anymore. Changing out the AOS, oil filler tube, all the coolant tubes (they are short) and the coolant tank while I'm in there. Should sort this out. Atle
  2. atta
    coolant mixed with oil does hint at an AOS issue. Quick check: with your engine on, remove the oil filler cap and feel for suction with your palm. Or for a more convincing check, see the throttle-body for any oil deposit. I faced a similar situation of collant overflowing a while back. It was quite likely an issue with just the reservoir cap. The old version apparently has a known issue and if you are still running with that, might be a good idea to switch, My AoS also needed a replacement about then but I dont think that had anything to do with the coolant overflow. Hi, thanks for your advice. Just to clarify there is no mix of coolant and oil as far as I can tell. The oil filler tube is the only thing that I know for sure is touching the tube that got the leak, so it got some attention and I noticed it is more dirty than the rest of the engine bay. I changed out the cap last year. I did check the end of the AOS' j-tube where it goes into the throttle body, and it did have some oil in it. But I'm thinking a little oil is normal? Atle
  3. atta
    Ordered the part, but conserned that this was just a symptom - can't really see what would cause the tube to melt. Perhaps it's the hot water rushing out from the tube that made it look like it had been melted? I also noticed that the oil filler tube is very drity. Lite it has been sweating oil. Is this normal, or should I suspect a failed AOS causing a vacuum in the tube? Thanks. Atle
  4. atta
    I am considering trying the hack on a p-car with Litronics - does it work in the same way? Works the same on Litronics. A note to everyone doing this though, is that this hack is only for the front lights - so remember to turn the lights on at night. :) Here in Norway, and most of Europe, the normal configuration is that both front and rear lights turn on when starting the engine (and even innstrument lights, etc. We're not used to operate a light switch at all.) Atle
  5. atta
    Hi. I believe I was the first to do this conversion on a pre-2000. Found out, like you did, I could not use the old B-pillar setup and pretty much went through what you did - so I totally feel you. :) Just wanted to add that I used a SmartTop relay as well, and had to cut an extra wire that Maurice did not need to touche. I believe the symptoms I had was that the windows did not drop. Maurice documented this in his excellent writeup, so check if that could be what is causing this. ps! I did not have to adjust anything other than pulling the frame a bit more forward, so you might want to try to rotate the plastic balls to their original position and try to get it as close as you can by adjusting the frame itself before playing with the plastic balls. Atle 99 Boxster 2.5 w/every mod worth doing. ;)
  6. atta
    Ok, confident the leak was near the connections to the tank I filled up the expansion tank and started the engine. Coolant started squirting out from the tube that goes to the oil cooler. It has a dent in it, and it actually looks like it melted. Can't believe I missed that last night. Any ideas as to what could have caused this? A.
  7. atta
    Thanks for your advice. I'm guessing the tank is the original one. It is an .04 revision stamped 99. Sounds like a good idea to replace it. I was contemplating the nipple bypass just because I would love to get it fixed this weekend. :) But I'm not even sure that's the problem - it there a way to tell other than pressure testing it? Or any experiences that helps to point in this direction? Atle 99 Boxster w/996 Turbo front end conversion, 03+ rear w/PDC, 03 roof w/glass window, ++++++++++(!)
  8. atta
    Hi, drow my 99 2.5 Manual on the freeway the other day. Temperature light started to flash, but temperature was normal. After a few km I pulled off the freeway and drove to a gas station. Temperature started climbing, and when I stopped the car smoke was flowing out from the engine compartment. Let it sit a little while with the heat on full to try to cool it down, then limped the short trip home. Starting to drive the temperature went down to 180 again. When home it was dripping coolant all over. Inspected it today. Coolant expansion tank is empty. I suspected it had failed, so I pulled the carpet. No sign of any coolant in the rear trunk. In the engine compartment there is was puddles on the engine, eg. below the AOS. Inspected the hoses and can't really see where it is leaking. Could it be that one of the cooling expansion tank nipples on the back of the manifold has failed? I dropped the engine about 3 inches when changing the front engine mount a few weeks back. That might have caused some extra stress on the nippes. If this is the cause, is the fix to drill out the failed nipple and just use a hose, like Wayne did on picture 6 in this article? http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/33-WATER-Coolant_Tank/33-WATER-Coolant_Tank.htm Or should I just swap out the tank while I'm at it? Mine is a .04 revision. Atle
  9. atta
    How did it go? :) Atle
  10. atta
    Congrats! Looks great! This is high on my list of things I would love to do but keep putting off because it looks very involving. Success (in the end) stories like this is giving me some more confidence though. B) Atle
  11. atta
    There is no difference between the 986 and 996 in this regard. Only model year differences, and w/wo nav. On my 99 the setter worked as advertised - centered the cage both horizontal, vertical and to the correct depth. Made the whole process very easy. This was for a Kenwood HU. I did have to bend out a lot of taps on the cage to get it to secure to the frame, though. Using the plastic bars is probably a good idea even when using the setter. Atle
  12. atta
    Did you check the alarm horn? :) http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry58228 A.
  13. atta
    Try locking it and disconnecting the radar detector. Locking the car should bring it into a power saving state. Does your alarm horn work? The alarm horn, located by the battery, has a constant current to it and are know to go bad and drain batteries... A.
  14. atta
    99 2.5 5sp My oil filler tube looks like this as well. Covered in oil and dirt. Is this normal, or a sign of a leak? Is the oil filler tube a DIY? Atle
  15. atta
    The '03+ cars are probably more reliable than Chris' '00 as well.. ? A.
  16. atta
    If you have a full Bose system, like it sounds like you do, I'm not surprised the "upgrade" sounds bad. The Bose drivers are weird impedance and wired in a weird way that will only sound good when mated with the Bose amp. If you try to drive "regular" speakers with the Bose amp I'm not surprised it does not sound any good, A.
  17. atta
    I'm there as well. Bought a new BOSE shelf a few months ago, but did not get any further than opening the box to inspect it before this project got side tracked. I did test fit a pair of 13cm drivers, and they fit without problems. 13cm = 5 1/4", not 5" that I wrote earlier. Not so used to your strange way of measuring stuff. ;) Believe the tweeters are 1". A.
  18. atta
    I'd like to learn more about how to add DRLs as well. I looked at the "drl hack", http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/mods/drl/, but it only turns on the front lights. Has been thinking about using this principle for all the lights.. why would one need a relay? Is it the type that only turn on the lights when the engine is running (and starter is not running?)? I don't mind if they are on from the moment I turn my key - and while starting. That's how it works on my late model BMW, so that should be fine. Both are xenon.. and I don't mind getting a higher amp battery if that is needed. A.
  19. atta
    Two 13cm (5") "subs" and two tweeters. The subs are pointing downwards and has a base port in the middle of the unit facing forward. If you intend to put one into a none-Bose car you will have to replace the speakers and wiring as they are wired op strange and has a very low impedance. Here's a thread with some more info and pictures: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=11577 Atle
  20. atta
    PROBLEM SOLVED. Tried pushing and pulling the door handles while locking/unlocking and then suddenly (after 30 or so cycles) it unlocked! Pushed a screwdriver in to lock it, and it would not unlock again. Pulled door panel and after a lot of fiddling around found out that if I detached the cable to the outer door handle everything was fine again. Reattached it, and now it works. Know how if you pull up the handle when you unlock that you need to lock/unlock with the handle down to get it to open? My kids do that all the time.. pull the door handle at the same time I unlock. Well, I had the outer door handle off the door (painted the car) and must have attached it too tight. Must be a small margin, cause everything has been fine for a week now. I should have mentioned this, but I did not think it was related as everything had been working fine... A.
  21. atta
    Everything functions as normal, except there is no resistance - and the door does not open - when I pull either door handle. A.
  22. atta
    Hi. It's not an electronics problem. I can hear (and feel) the lock engaging when I lock/unlock the doors, using the dash switch, remote or key. But I cannot open the passenger side door. When I pull the inner or outer door handle the window drops, but the door will not open. Even with the door card off I'm not sure I would be able to release it? A.
  23. atta
    Thanks. That would probably be easy if I only could get the door open! Right now it is locked and I cannot open it. Guess I need to try to pry off the door panel. But then what? Atle
  24. atta
    99 2.5, US spec When I lock/unlock the doors I can feel a vibration from the door - like it is unlocking - but it will not open from inside or outside. So the electronics seems to be working and the cables are connected. Is there a likely fix for this, or do I need a new door lock mechanism? Atle
  25. atta
    On my 99 2.5 the difference was huge. Especially before I got a sports muffler. - When I find some time I will remove the air intake muffler. This is a separate piece on the 2.5, but part of the intake tube on the 2.7 and 3.2. Atle
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