atta

Look to att. picture. Centre hood is ok with the bumper, but both end are not and it looks to be symetrical on both sides.

Actually, looking at the picture + picture of the rubber stops, it looks like the center is too high. Good news is the bumper cover is made of pretty flexible plastic, so try to just take it off/loose and put it back on to see if you can get a better fit. Might actually have to adjust down the sides (turning the rubber stops to reduce their height) if they have been used to compensate for the misalignment.. The link Cassiebox provided has all the details you need to remove the bumper cover. Goodl uck! :)

Atle

Found a good deal on a complete HPAS system on eBay. I think it looks very promising. Waiting for it to arrive, I was curious if it would work with rear speakers. Looking at the 986 TSB it sais it's a 2 x 200w at 2 ohm system while the 996 TSB sais it's a 2 x 200w at 2 ohm + 2 x 100w at 4 ohm. Part numbers are the same.

This leads me to believe that I can add a rear speaker setup using the same additional wiring that is used to hook a rear speaker kit to a 6 channel amp?

This is the setup that I am considering: (Going for great sound with OEM look)

- Kenwood DNX8220BT double din head unit w/trieullionaire AVIC kit (that I hope will fit the Kenwood unit)

- HPAS with its high power amp, quality xovers and new speakers (front components and 2x160mm on each door panel)

- BOSE sub box for rear fill and added base (well, rear fill and its great looks really) using OEM wiring harness

I'm aware that I either have to modify the BOSE box or change out the drivers. I will probably to the later. Perhaps with MB Quarts. From what I understand the HPAS speakers are made by Jehnert.de and based on MBs w/tuned xovers to match the cars acoustics.

So my questions are:

- Does this sound like a good setup or are there any flaws in my logic?

- Suggestions on what to do to the BOSE box to complement the HPAS system? Eg. rewire, new drivers, ...

- Can the rear speaker wiring harness (Amp to BOSE box, it's supposedly the same connector as the regular rear speakers) be ordered separate? PN?

Atle

Since your top had the velcro straps, I would definitely replace those.

The velcro straps are just that, velcro straps. If you want to make your own, let me know and I'll give you measurements and where to install them.

If it's an '03 top, I'm not sure why the looped string would be there.

Regards, Maurice.

I have the two straps (pictured in previous post on my desk) and I guess they ripped off pretty clean. Either that, or they have another use combined with the shoe lace.. :huh: Guess I could try to sew them on again. There is a TSB on this, right?

Atle

Atle:

Your car won't fall apart, but your canvas top may not fold/unfold correctly unless you repair or replace it.

The Velcro straps were indispensable on the 986's for insuring that the top would fold correctly and that the tension cable would fall correctly into the guide channels running along each side of the top.

In 987's there is a different device holding the canvas in place, which we will call “looped strings”, one on the left side and one on the right side. If either of the "looped strings" on your 987 are sticking out from where they exit the sides of the convertible top, and are no longer under tension, you will have to replace the entire part that connects the two looped strings.

The looped strings are attached to the convertible top frame by means of one fastening screw on each side. The overall part is called a "fold placer" by Porsche and is part # 987 561 773 01. The fold placer costs about $69.00 as of March 2008. The fold placer is actually two pieces of string that are connected to each other by being crimped on to a flexible elastic band in between them, from one side of the top to the other. The failure occurs when one of the crimped connections comes apart near the center of the top, and if that is the case, you will have to replace the complete "fold placer". It runs left to right through a canvas channel and you can guide the new part with a long piece of wire, then remove the wire and attach the strings with the fastening screw on each side. You will have to partially pull apart the convertible top liner in the area near the fastening screw to get at it.

If you don’t want to spend the $69.00, in some instances it may be possible to re-attach the looped strings to the center elastic band, but you will have to devise your own method of re-fastening the string to the elastic band after you remove the elastic band from its canvas channel.

Regards, Maurice.

This is a +03 986 top w/glass roof. When I bought it (used w/frame) both the velcro straps were torn of (I need to order new ones) and this string is hanging out. So either this top use both of these mechanisms or the string has a different use..

A

I just installed 997-424-010 shifter into my 01 5 speed boxster. in reading this thread, I deviated in the installation of the left cable.

I did mark the cable end/adjuster before removing my old shifter. but when it came time to re-attach the cable to the new shifter's adjuster, I did not pull on the cable to re-algn the mark as stated in Halo's description/photo instruction. I figure that the cables being attached to the transmission is at it's desired location; neutral (fore/aft) and at the 3-4 gear selection (side to side). Also assumed that the green tool that comes attached to the shift lever is holding the shifter at center.

should I have pulled the left cable up to the originally marked spot?

Make sure you put the alignment tool on the right way as it can go on from both sides and gives different results. I marked the cables and used the tool (just in case) and did not have to pull any cables. When I think back I might have pulled just a little on the right one, but just a little - and by hand.

Put the tool on from the right side, so that the opening is to the left. Also; it's a different alignment tool when using the standard 9x7 shifter from the SS. I think my tool was white. SS one is green.

Atle

Porsche uses shoelaces to hold the car together....

So it seems! :) Any idea where it belongs? Afraid my car will fall apart now that it is untied! ;)

Atle

I've read through all the instructions I've found detailing a canvas installastion and I can not find a mention of this string. This leads me to believe it is spesific to either the headliner or 03 top. But I can't find any material on either. Anyone with a 03+ top or headliner familiar with this string.. ? Right now it is stuck in the guide channel, but not sure if this is correct or not. I can only find the string on the right side.

A

this is from my '99 so yours may be slightly different but on mine it attaches at the base of the 'b' pillar. You can see it when the top is open all but a foot or so. Ignore the red arrows in pic #2 as I put them in there to help someone else w/ a different problem.

That looks like a wire . This is a string, not very different in looks that a shoe lace. Perhaps it has something to do with the head liner?

A.

I believe you are looking at the tension cable for the top(it normally attaches lower on top frame work) If I remember correctly there is an eylet that is attached to a screw. The velcro straps go around the round bar next to straps. The strap aids to helping the top fold correctly going down.

Do you know if it is possible to fix? I can't see a string on the other side. It looks like it goes into one of the channels in the frame where it is secured with a knot or something at the end. Definitely not a screw.

The straps look like this (after I removed them from the car). A large loop that can be opened with velcro and a small closed loop. They were just sitting there on the black bar seemingly doing nothing, so I removed them for inspection. How do they guide the top?

Atle

Hi,

whats this string hanging out of a 03 top? I also found two velcroed tabs on both side (removed on this picture) that seems to do nothing...

Atle

Hi,

Having problems with my 2003 Boxster Roof. I Replaced the left cable (Drivers side US), All went fine but the lid was sitting up slightly in the fully closed position. I tried to re-synchronise the roof but now in the fully closed position the motor runs on too much and pops the slider arm off its ball joint. Has anyone come across this issue?

Hi. Did you figure out how to sync the B-version transmission? I'm curious how it is calibrated as the top open and top closed microswitches are relocated to inside of the left transmission.

A.

The part number for the 2003-2004 kit is 000 044 200 20. Per the TSB the muffler only is 996 111 987 01.

There are 2 part numbers for the originl sport exhust - the weird looking one.

For use on a 1997-199 2.5 000 044 200 09. The kit for a 2.5 includes a mounting adapter. For use on a 2000-2002 000 2.7/3.2 000 044 200 12- no mounting adapter is included as it is not needed on a 2.7/3.2. Per the TSB the muffler only for both is 996 111 987 00.

Do you know if it is possible to buy just the mounting adapter, so that a 03+ PSE can be used on a 99 986 2.5? And does the kit (000 044 200 20) include the tail pipes?

Atle

A:

I think you have everything covered.

The only thing I am not sure about is whether your MY '99 still has the microswitch that sits on top of the electric motor housing (center of convertible top well just forward of the third brake light) AND that has the little black lever that gets depressed when the clamshell makes contact with it on the way to sealing the clamshell, or whether yours does not have that little black lever sticking up.

I know that its function, on the early Boxsters where it exists, is to trip the "after running" time of the top so that the light on the dashboard goes out and power to the electric motor is shut off before the V-levers rotate too far and the half moon gears run off past their limit.

Regardless, if yours has it and you keep it intact, it SHOULD work the same way.

Let us know for future reference, in any case.

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

I think the microswitch-part that I mentioned is this switch, so I don't need this as it's not used on the new style (and I already have it). I guess the microswitch is already in the new transmission then? If anyone has any hints to how to hook it up.. One can probably not buy just the plug?

I also found that I would need new cables, as they are 1" longer on the new setup. 2 x 986 561 717 03.

A.

Hm. Found in the workshop manuals that they changed to the new transmission type in may 1999. Guess My car is an early model 99 then, so with 35 kmiles on it is it likely to see the engine fail soon? :( I just bought the car (imported from the US) ..it was first registered in june 2000, so I figured it was a late model but now it looks like its not after all. :( I paid almost $55 000 for the car, I don't want the engine to fail on me. ($24k from the lot, rest is Norwegian tax and duties).

A.

A.:

You can make an adjustment that will allow the front edge of the convertible top to get closer to the top of the windshield frame, thus releasing some of the tension from your "overtight" top.

The adjustment is made by lengthening or shortening the pushrods with the "red" plastic ball cups that are attached (popped onto) to the underside of the B-Pillar knuckle.

You can loosen the 10mm nut (the one with the thick washer) and then adjust the length of the pushrod accordingly. Be careful not to overdo it, because at some point in its length it is not a linear progression (i.e., it will get further away from the top edge of the windshield when you expect it to keep getting closer, etc...)

As far as your "B-pillar" microswitch problem, you are correct that Porsche went to the "B Version" transmissions for the convertible tops in mid-1999.

With the "A Version" transmissions, there was a half-moon gear in there. With the "B Version" the large gear is a complete circle.

At that time, the "B-Pillar Microswitch" was moved to the passenger side (right side) transmission.

Replacing the transmissions is very straightforward: One large 19mm bolt that holds down the V-lever on each side, and three 13mm nuts that hold the transmissions to the studs that are mounted onto the rear quarter panel. You will need new type of studs for the new transmissions. Then, of course you have to connect the cables and pop off the plastic ball cups (red on your car) and the black hydraulic pushrods.

I recommend that while you are it, replace those red plastic ball cups with white ones, and keep the reds as spares. There is a guy in Belgium who sells just the plastic ball cups. Porsche only sells the complete push rod assembly. PM me if you want his info.

Regards, Maurice.

Thank you Maurice. Appreciate your help.

I already read your previous mention of the Belgium guy selling the plastic cups, so I found him on eBay and ordered a set earlier today. :D

These are the parts that I believe are needed:

- Left transmission : 986 561 179 03

- Right transmission : 986 561 180 03

- Studs / "spacer bolts" : 6 x 986 561 789 01

- Microswitch with support: 986 613 767 01

- new relay and some wiring

Is there anything else I need/should change while I'm at it?

Oh, and I read in the workshop manual that there are two centering screws (regular chassis) on each side of the frame where the bolts are. They were not used on my setup, but it would probably help with alignment as just moving the frame a little bit helped me clear the windshield. I think I might try this if I still have alignment issues. Right now it seems to be coming in a little high, but then again the car is new to me so I don't really remember how it used to be. :)

A.

Hm. Found in the workshop manuals that they changed to the new transmission type in may 1999. Guess My car is an early model 99 then, so with 35 kmiles on it is it likely to see the engine fail soon? :( I just bought the car (imported from the US) ..it was first registered in june 2000, so I figured it was a late model but now it looks like its not after all. :( I paid almost $55 000 for the car, I don't want the engine to fail on me. ($24k from the lot, rest is Norwegian tax and duties).

A.

Quick update.

I did as suggested in another thread where someone had a top that was hitting the windframe after having had the frame out of the car: Loosened the six bolts holding the frame, grab the "knuckle" and pushed it up and back while tightening the nuts. It no longer hits the windshield! I simulated the microswitch and it now seems to be working fine. I also loosened one of the wires holding the top down, the ones you pop off going into service mode, to get it to go all the way forward but I think I might tighten it up a bit once everything is working as I suspect its just the top that is a little tight after not having been used for a while.

My battery died on me, so I need to get a booster and have it running again to verify for sure - but I think it is just minor adjustments left if any.

So the frame swap seems to be a success except for the microswitch issue. I hope changing out the gears and relay is not a big job as I have almost used up my wifes goodwill account already. :rolleyes: If anyone know the procedure and parts required that would be a big help.

Oh, and by the way: :renntech:

Atle

If your old top was a plastic window It’s a different animal frame wise. At some point they repositioned that micro switch. I think to the other side of the car.

Anyway, find out where, you may be able to cob it into place. If not, see if you can get the switch and any bracket somewhere (wherever you got the top is a good start),

Regards, PK

From what I can gather the new switch is located in the new style transmission. So now my questions are:

- How easy is it to just replace the transmissions with the new ones, and

- Is the alignment issue I'm seeing fixable (not going all the way forward, hitting windscreen on the way back, not going all the way back)

I checked the wiring diagrams, and it appear like there is a different setup for both the locked/unlocked switch and the "top closed" switch. I'll get a SmartTOP, and then it looks like I "just" need to re-wire top unlock at the relay base and add the wiring for the transmission switch.

Hate that I did not do my homework when I bought the car and got a MY00... I think my car is a late 99 by the way, so this new setup probably did not happen until MY00.

A.

litomonkie:

Did you get this figured out? I changed my 99 over to a 03. Moved the microswitch as the new frame has the mounting holes for it, but since found out that nothing moves ut to press it in on the 03 frame.

A.

ps! I moved over the b-pilar microswitch, but nothing is touching this now so I guess its in use when the top is down and not up?

Ok, so I checked the old frame and sure enough, its not the same. Even though there is the same provisions for mounting the microswitch there is nothing touching it. I tried pushing it in, and the top started going down. It does not fit or needs asjustmens though, as it would hit the windscreen and not come down properly. I raised it again, and it will not go all the way closed.

Is there a way for me to get out of this other than putting back the old frame? Would a new gear with the new microswitch solve this.. ?

Thanks!

Atle

1999 986

My rear window cracked and I could not find a shop to put in an aftermarket glass roof, so I purchased a used roof and frame from a 2003 model with the oem glass roof. Just swapped it over and tried to close, but stopped (stalled - motor working hard) about 2 inches from closed. I tried to just pull it in and close it with the latch, but when I open it up again it goes back the same 2 inches. Clamshell is completely closes. Now, when I push the button I can tell the motor starts working but nothing happends.

What could be causing this? When I think about it, I think when I put the red rods back in place the top was further back than the original frame.

Atle

ps! I moved over the b-pilar microswitch, but nothing is touching this now so I guess its in use when the top is down and not up?

Hi.

Did the 9x7 shifter (standard) swap today and love it. Just one question... I tried moving over the green plastic "plate" that was under the black shifter cable, but I felt it was in the way so I removed it again. Is it supposed to be on or off?

Atle

I have 7mm in front, 15mm in the back and my heart is still beating. The price of the lug bolts nearly stopped it though.

I think “S’s” have them (5mm or 7mm) all the way around..

Regards, PK

On what wheel size and offset is this? I've noticed that 15mm + 18mm is a popular combination in Europe for the Boxster (sold as pair by companies such as TechArt and DesignTek), but I'm not sure if if they will fit my particular wheels. By the way, that's 15mm spacers, so 30mm axle extension.

Atle

Hi.

Just got a 1999 Boxster that came with the sport option and the 18" SportDesign wheels.

Front: 7,5 J x 18 ET50 (RO?) with 225/40 ZR 18

Rear: 9 J X 18 ET52 with 265/35 ZR 18

I bought a set of H&R Track+ spacers with bolts on an ebay auction saying these would fit a Boxster. Now that I have read through a lot of posts about spacers here on the forum I'm worried that they might not fit the front. The spacers are 15mm front and 18mm rear. From what I read 18mm rear should be OK, but I have not found anyone mentioning running more than 7mm on the fronts..?

Atle

Hi,

Also check the bottom of your door panels for water. I am experiencing wet carpet and found the base of door panels to be wet. I suspect the vapor barrier needs to be resealed behind the door panel. Check that...

Don't mean to hijack this thread.. Seems though the symptoms were the same we're experiencing different issues. My leak is through the door, - thank you Chris! I could tell the previous owner has removed the door panel (and broke one of the clips on the bottom - are these replaceable?). Have to take it apart some other day to inspect the seals. Must be something catching the rain and forcing it out the carpet as the drain hole in the door seems to be working fine.

A.

1999 Guards Red/Black Boxster

Thank you so much for explaining and for the photo!

Yes that is what i used silicone and ductape on. I talked to Autotuning today (Porsche/RUF authorized service shop here in norway) and they also told me to check under the convertible top. I guess i just have to order these new, they wheren't any expensive, just a pain to put them in. Even if there wherent any holes they said that after many years the thing could start deteriorating/molding and cause leaks anyway and they had exchanged many of these and it was the most usual reason for leaks.

Hey, that's so funny. :lol: Did you see my post? Guess it was the same Nowegian rain that wet our floors. :) Hope you figure it out.. I'm praying that it was just the flodded compartment under my front boot that was causing my leak. I've ordered a (used) 4-frame top w/window and wonder if what you are undertaking would be a good idea to do at the same time. Let us know what you find out.

A.