Cold Warrior

The lamp does not light up when the key is turned in the ignition before starting the car (when all the lamps are supposed to be on). The Durametric scan shows P0650, P0153 and a P1276 fault codes, so I would like to know if I can easily check to see if the 0650 code refers to a burned out lamp, wire connection problem or faulty DME. The car starts up and runs fine, but I need to get it smogged.

Any thoughts ( humorous or serious) would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

CW

I had somewhat similar symptoms on my 2000 S and eventually the e-brake drum exploded.

CW

Assuming the engine stopped running because you ran out of fuel, it should have restarted after your numerous attempts.  I wonder if your immobilizer is preventing the car from starting?  If you turn the key off and then turn it on, you should hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds. If you cycle the fuel pump a few times, that should prime the fuel rail, and the car should start, if the only problem was you ran out of fuel. Lets us know what happens.

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Thanks for the reply, and a newbie question: What is the immobilizer?

Also, this moring I tried to start the car and got a large backfire. Afterwords it still would not start or even hint of starting.

Bruinbro

Driving back from work I think I ran out of gas. The oil light came on followed by the engine dying approximately 15 seconds later. The fule gage was reading at the first empty bar. Coasted to a surface street with a slight crown an parked by the curb. Got gas with my other car and put 8 gallons in the tank. Tried to restart and no joy after about 30 minutes of intermittent cranking. Can the fuel lines get to a point where fuel doesn't go in no matter what?

Thanks for any thoughts,

CW

Will a drivers side handle for a manual seat slider work on the passenger side?

CW

If so, are you having fitment problems?

CW

Anyone know where I can get roll cage padding like what is in this GT3 (thick and flat faced)?

Thanks,

CW

Hi folks, having a problem with the install of my Stable Energies (Safety Devices) roll cage. The main roll bar front feet holes do not come close to fitting the studs on the car. I may have to whack the studs off (get your mind OUT of the gutter) and weld some nuts into the box section. Does anyone know what is in the box section behind the seats where the roll bar bolts to? Is the locating pin also a shear restraint pin? Is there another solution that is better than what I'm thinking?

Overview of the roll bar in the car

Closeup of the foot with only one stud poking thru

Stud and locating pin (shear pin?) locations

Possible solution by welding in a nut and removing stud and pin

Thanks in advance,

CW

For those of you that care, it weighs 28 lb (with windstop). Weight of Stable Energies bolt-on cage tomorrow.

CW

Thanks for the info and offer CW. But I live in Melbourne Australia. I don't think the freight would be worth it.

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UPS would be $700 USD. Haven't checked other carriers. Not out of the realm of negotiation if the sale price is in the ballpark.

CW

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Turns out that USPS will ship them for ~$150 USD. Interested?

CW

Thanks for the info and offer CW. But I live in Melbourne Australia. I don't think the freight would be worth it.

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UPS would be $700 USD. Haven't checked other carriers. Not out of the realm of negotiation if the sale price is in the ballpark.

CW

Thanks TP.

I will weigh my 993 rims at next tire change to confirm see how much mine are. Thinking of using something like Volk Racing rims if they are lighter.

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I've got Volk TE37 rims on my 2000 S and the specs and weights (as measured by yours truly) are as follows:

Fronts - 8.5 x 18 et 50, 17 lb

Rears - 10.5 x 18 et 40, 19 lb

You should be aware that the only rims that Volks come in with the Porsche bolt center is the TE37 which comes in the 2 sizes I have and a 10 x 18 et 50 or 60. They are made only at certain times when enough orders are placed and can take up to 6-9 months for delivery.

BTW, I'm selling mine. See the ad in the for sale section.

CW

Ok, I set  up the supercharger setup on the removed engine.  Not all bolted up but these pics should give you the idea of the layout of the components.

Check out the pics here:

http://members.rennlist.com/tholyoak/DSCF0009.JPG

http://members.rennlist.com/tholyoak/DSCF0010.JPG

http://members.rennlist.com/tholyoak/DSCF0011.JPG

http://members.rennlist.com/tholyoak/DSCF0012.JPG

http://members.rennlist.com/tholyoak/DSCF0013.JPG

Todd

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Thanks a lot Todd, these will help bif time. How is the 3.4? Any tickets yet? :D

CW

Do you have any pics you could share (post or e-mail) of the SC mounted on the 2.5 out of the engine bay?

CW

Please don't forget the pics of the S/C setup before you rip it out.

Thanks,

CW

The Speed Gallery in Studio City. 818.766.2321

CW

Which one is the hot wire, the solid brown or the brown with the white stripe? I'm attempting to install a Momo Apache wheel.

Thanks,

CW

Has anyone ever combined a performance spring like an H&R with the standard non M030 shocks on their Box? I'm trying to get a little more performance out of my suspension without throwing down 3k for a whole new set up. There's probably a spring rate not matching the shock issue. I'm up for sugestions

'98 Boxter

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See my post in the BRB. I have the setup you are talking about in my 2000 S. I will be selling the springs and shocks after I get my coilovers installed (long story).

CW

Or heard of it being done? Seems to be a nightmare if not impossible job, but I thought I'd ask as I have a line on a set of GT3 Cup coilovers.

Bruinbro

Do you happen to know if the crest that is on the tip of the bolt is an integral part of the bolt or an add-on cap? I need something like that for the wheel caps I put on my Volk rims.

Thanks,

CW

Loren,

I've searched around for advice on installing aftermarket non-airbag steering wheels and my search-fu is weak. Is there a way to keep the other airbags active and not have the airbag light come on? Also, for storage, should the airbag leads be shorted or capped and isolated? My guess is the former so that ESD wont activate the bag. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm attempting to install a Momo Apache steering wheel with a Momo #7004 adapter and a TBD quick release hub to a 2000 S Boxster.

Thanks,

Steve

You might want to do the cost trade with the tires you've mentioned and the Dunlop Super Sport Race tires. These are R-compound DOT approved tires that grip exceedingly well. I have a set on my 2000 S and they are phenomenal. At $121-$131 per tire it might make sense to get these even if you only get 8k miles out of them. Check Tire Rack for prices and availability. Also, Sasco Sports has them, including the 285-30/18 size but for more money.

CW

If they say Italy on the back side then they are definitely look alike knockoffs.

Sorry you ended up with these.

They are not going to be worth much unless you can find someone with an older 911 that likes the look of the newer wheels.

Any chance of going back and finding the guy you bought them from.

I paid $1200 for turbo looks with brand new Dunlop SSRs on them, but they were factory original.... those wheels that you have probably are worth somewhere in the $500-600 range...Maximum.  Maybe less

Yeah, and you got a sweet deal. Should have sold them for $1600. :oops: When do I get to see pics?

CW

I believe the 245's will rub slightly on tight turns with a factory RoW sport suspension. If you go lower then it might rub even more. A safe bet is 235's (IMHO).

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Thanks Loren. What part are you saying would rub against the tire? When I put the same size wheel and offset (Fikse FM-5's) with 225-40 Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires the only potential clearance issue was with the plastic fender cover in the front. This was with the stock suspension, though. My fear is that with wider tires the small clearance will turn into a larger interference. Does additional negative camber generate more clearance to that plastic cover? It seems like it would, but I haven't the geometry to check it out.

Again, thanks for the reply,

CW

I'm going to be putting tires on my new rims soon and would like to go as wide as possible on the fronts to compliment the 285-30's I'm planning for the rears. This is on a 2000 Boxster S. The wheels are 8.5" et50mm and I am installing H&R sport springs with the intention of getting at least -1.5 degress camber and more likely -2.0 to -2.25 degrees. I would be willing to give up some turning radius if these would work. Any thoughts on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

CW